hairyone

That thing is the swirl pot, there's no filter in there! I think it allows the fuel to circulate and keep cool, plus I guess it would also separate out any air but the float chamber is open to the atmosphere anyway. If yours is the same as mine then the fuel filter is in a canister attached to the rear face of the outrigger under the driver's side of the car. There is a long bolt that goes up thru the bottom of the canister (about 10mm and probably rounded off if mine is anything to go by!)

If you mean the tub cappings on either side then Litch is right. I got a full set of Galvy 90 cappings from sodbury for £5 and a set of of just the side cappings from a 109 for £1. When I took the old rusty ones off the rust underneath went quite a wayeither side underneath about 8". Bought the 109's first and had heard they could be cut down to fit. On inspection though you will see that the spanner openings for the 109 seat mounts do not match those on a 90. In the end I fitted the galved 90 cappings. and then cut some repair sections to weld in from the 109 set to repair my old 90 set. I've even got enough left to cut down and make yet another set for the 90. To fit just undo all the bottom bolts from the sides top and bottom jack the roof up with it pivoting on the windscreen. I re-used all the rubber strips for the roof seal and no leaks. I didn't even use blind rivets, figured the rust and oxide from ordinary rivets would soon seal any gaps.

What's the view on red/grey oxide vs. zinc rich primer. My chassis has been sprayed with waxoil each year but most of the underlying paint has gone. I was planning to clean it back to bare but lightly rusted metal kurust and then paint again. The trouble I have is choosing a primer... I can see that a zinc rich primer has some electrolytic anti-rust formation propertions but what about red-oxide and grey oxide paint and for that matter micaceous iron oxide (MIO) paint how do they work. Apparent;y you can still buy red-lead (wasn't this the pre-cursor to which red oxide is a pale imitation?) Red Lead Micaceous iron oxide Red/Grey Oxide

Damn, hadn't even thought of the possibility of it falling inside !

Noticed a rusty streak dwon the side of the engine yesterday, looks like a small dribble from the nearside core plug at the front of the engine which looks like it has corroded at the bottom to give a pinhold leak. I'm thinking that even with the exhaust manifold in the way I should be able to get to it and just hammer it out (after draing the collant) and knock a new one in with some sealant, or is it much harder than it looks?

My gauge was exactly the same. Last time I ran out of petrol I put a gallon in and then took the float out of the tank and bent the arm (it's just like coat hanger wire) so that with a gallon in the needle was at the top of the red. Trouble was when I brimmed the tank with petrol level about 6" below the top of the filler inlet the tank now only read 3/4 full. I think the arm were shortened that might do the trick, but if you take too much off then you're stuffed. If you do take the float gauge out you will see that the float can be clipped to the hinged quadrant in two different positions, only one is suitable for the 10 gallon tank under the drivers seat. I think the gauge might have a number of applications where the other position would suit a deeper tank. When I first got my 90 the needle never went below the half way mark, it turned out that the float was jamming on the side of the tank, to remove the float just take the drivers seat base out followed by the seatbox cover, the float is held in with a small locking ring just give it a tap with a screwdriver and the whole float cab lifted out.

Backfiring on the overrun is usually a sign of a retarded timing. Mine still pops ever so slightly, but I wanted the timing adjusted so that it is just backed off from pinking under a heavy load. I always set mine by ear (I fitted a magnetronic module to replace the points and condenser), I did eventually win a nice snap-on strobe on ebay and out of curiosity I found it was timed at about 22BTDC @ 2000rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected. I put the extra advance down to the fact the green manual gives the settings for 2 star leaded petrol. With respect to setting the idle mixture the following link gives some guidelines that could be used for the DMTL Carb setup

I would have thought that with the ignition switched off there would be no power to the coil and hence no spark. This would imply compression ignition. I only ever had this once when the idle jet blocked, so to compensate and get me home I upped the idle speed by screwing out the cable adjuster for an idle of about 1.5-2k, when I came to stop the engine carried on for a while which puzzled me ... looking at the manual it looks as if the stop solenoid only works on the idle fuel circuit (i.e. when you switch off you usually come off the throttle) so with the increased idle the stop solenoid didn't work because the petrol was getting in via the primary circuit, could it be that you have the idle set too high. Alternatively the stop solenoid is easily tested by unscrewing it and testing it with 12v or simply switching the ignition off and on.

You're going to want as much overlap as possible because the corners of the large tabs should be welded together and to the original chassis inside. If your worried, why not cut off too little and then try fitting and removing a little more each time. I think that on good quality replacements the tabs are stepped out a little so that they fit nicely over the original chassis so ideally you will want to slide the original chassis ends right up to the step.

The differences are minor and if I couldn't get a genuine land rover 32/34 DMTL I'd fit one from any other car and just re-jet it ,these guys have all the bits ... Fast Road Cars O.T.O.H. What's wrong with the one you have, a full weber service kit is only about £17 and there isn't much that actually wears out that isn't covered by the service kit (I think the only unfixable bit is wear in the throttle spindle that would mean re-bushing). I used a service kit myself some years ago, not long after I got mine and it was pretty straight forward, I also have a replacement standing by (picked up from ebay for about £5). The only issues I have ever had have been with the jets becoming blocked, see thread here .. Help 2.5 petrol

According to the Haynes guide only the DMTL 1, 1/101 and 6/101 appear to be listed as an LR carbs, although it is possible that someone has misread the 1/101 as 7/101. I think the 32/34 DMTL was fitted to quite a few other cars. So far as I am aware the only important bit is how it is jetted and the jets are easily replaced.

That's the sort of thing I want to do, I haven't got a latch anymore, just a bit of seat belt webbing pop riveted in by the PO, stops it swinging 180 in the wind and smashing against the back. Trouble is it don't hold it open. I'm not too familiar with the RR tailgate, does it include the brackets or did you fab them. Cheers Aaron

Has anyone used gas struts for their bonnet / rear door on a 90/100/series. If so how/ where did you fit them and what size / strength were they. A friend of mine with a camper sent me a link to a guy whose is selling them for £10 inc p+p for a pair). Hamdani motors

I log on to most forums as Hairyone but I've not posted much on mig-welding. Only really welded a few patches on my 90 and still learning. Hoping to change the crossmember this year, and we might be swapping the frontera for a classic in the near future, trouble is I want something like a triumph dolly/herald/1500 fwd or a scimitar and the other half wants a moggy or volvo amazon. In either case there's probably going to be a heap of welding, but at the moment just happy to lurk and learn.

If you like heavy duty fabrication this guy posts some interesting threads Custom fabbed crane parts Digger bucket Bucket repair

I bought one of these off ebay for less than £3

I have had an oil soaked gearbox since I've had my 90, but never saw any oil from the drain plug, looked everywhere but was never sure where it was coming from, finally a plausible explanation ... thanks. Hope it all goes back together OK.

I use a coleman peak style stove that runs on unleaded, never heard of a diesel powered one before. The info on this site Stoves suggests that diesel gives off a lot of smelly noxious fumes when used as a stove fuel.

I know I'm going to have to do this job soon. The n/s is patched and the o/s has a small hole visible in the chassis rail. It's 90 and I've heard various tales about how easy it is to get access, with some saying I'll not get access to the top of the chassis rail even with the floor out. I'm not even sure how I could get a 4" grinder in there to cut the old ones off. Has anyone done this on a 90 and what tools / approach did you take. Cheers Aaron

Used it on my cappings last summer and overpainted with hammerite (they were second hand galvanised) it was a tossup between Zinga Galvafroid and 182. Zinga seemded to have the edge, but too early to tell, very heavy tin tho.

I really love the old style '30s and '50s style line drawn and B/W photos of home engineering projects. The home smelting furnace reminds me of my brother in law in N.I. who's really into to bikes and repair. He's read up on casting and has built his own furnace to create his own ally castings for repairs, powered by coal and a garden leaf blower. Last time we spoke I think he was into making steel castings as well. Not without it's problems tho, last time he was working in his shed something caught fire, he started wheeling all the bikes out of the shed and down the 45 degree 12 foot drop slope between the shed and the house, anyway when he came to the large enduro bike halfway down he realised he had removed the brekes for repair

Some interesting plans, most of 'em date from an age when it was cheaper to make than buy ... Home Workshop projects

Just another thought... Now that I'm now happy that my dizzy is just sitting 180 degrees out. The advance dial on the snap-on timing light MT1241, does the advance dial show engine degrees of advance? If I'm dialing 16 degrees on the timing light at idle to zero the pulley marks with the pointer does that mean that I've adjusted the dizzy to give 8 degrees of static advance (i.e. vac disconnected, an no mechanical advance at idle). I think I might have just been confused by the LR manuals giving the dynamic advance figures in distributor degrees.

Understood Les, But I'm sure that the rotor shaft is driven not by a helical gear on the end but a "dog drive" i.e. the end of the shaft has a blade like a screw driver that fits into a corresponding slot on the drive gear. Both the slot and blade ar offset tow one side like this (looking at the end of the distributor (bad ascii art") ..... / ||\ | O|| | \ ||/ '''''''' The way I picture it, the rotor shaft will only fit into the hole in a single orientation. O.T.O.H maybe I could lift out the slotted gear that sits on top of the skew gear. I've got a pic from the manual that show what I mean but can't seem to upload it. But based on what Les has said everything is Ok just 180 deg out, if I can flip the dizzy drive thru 180 it will look OK according to the book.

Thanks for the quick reply Les, that makes sense. At 2:00 am last night it was all starting to get a bit fuzzy, especially since my morning alarm goes off at 4:45am . The only problem I can see with that it would place the vac advance between the dizzy and the engine block, also the dizzy has an offset slot to drive the rotor shaft, so I'm not sure how you can only rotate it half a turn. I'm not sure if it makes a difference but it's a 2.5 petrol. I'm sure it's just a matter of geometry, is it possible that someone put the dizzy drive cog into the block 180deg out (the engine was reconditioned before I bought the car)?