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Posts posted by landroversforever

  1. 55 minutes ago, Peaklander said:

    Isn’t the idea with a plunge saw that the guide / track doesn’t need to be clamped? Somehow the saw action pushes it down onto the workpiece and it’s stickiness holds it there. I watched a joiner cut a worktop and I’m sure that was the advantage. If so, I’d swap my corded circular saw any day!

    Yeah, a track saw doesn’t need a clamp to hold it in place. I’m still amazed at how it can grip even the most dusty surface. Plonk the track on the board, line up the marks, shove the saw on and off you go. 

    I reckon when I did my workbench build it saved me a couple of sheets of ply. Being able to have such a neat straight cut to start from quickly meant I made less mistakes or losses when starting from what would have been a dodgy edge. 

  2. Having used circulars with a home made guide and then used a track saw, the track saw is like night and day. I'd say its akin to going from a hand saw to a normal circular! 

    I've used used a couple of different friend's Makita ones and they're great. I'd definitely buy one if I was did more work with sheet wood. The Festool one is also supposed to be fantastic, but attracts an even higher price.

  3. I think the only time I've put a 1.6mm tungsten in was when I was welding some perforated stainless together into a cylinder at about 25-30A.

    As for the holding, it depends really on the torch/button. My torch (Tweko) has a great button that takes no effort to push so even if you're holding the torch at a funny angle you don't dunk the tungsten as you press it. It also helps having a flexi head as you can position it however you need. What I normally do is torch against my thumb and hold with my middle finger, then my index is free for the button.

  4. 3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

    Hmm, well you can't educate pork George, so suggest you don't try :D

    If it is yanks, then they are probably comparing it to their massive trucks, which of course are much more sturdily (read: heavy) built. LRs were never about that.

    They're always comparing like that. Might as well compare the components to a 7.5T Lorry! 

  5. You can buy hose joiners pretty cheap. Just a short bit of pipe with a bead rolled on each end, then just another bit of pipe to make it meet. 

    For the oil cooler pipes, your local hydraulics place should be able to sort some extensions. 

  6. 7 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

    Yes there will be an eaves overhang of around 200mm and around the same at the gable end. The eaves is key to ventilating the roof structure and the gable provides a bit of rain cover as you say. It means the building can't go right up to the fence as I can't oversail someone else's land, however you need a good 300mm of space around the outside for maintenance anyway.

    Building footprint is 6m long and 4m wide on paper - same as the previous one. However I may try and squeze that to 4.2m wide if I can.

    Is there any scope to bring the front of the roof out a few metres so you've got some covered area? or have you already planned a carport type structure?

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