MuddyWinny

I had the same symptoms and problem problem with my A127 alternator. Mud entered the brush/regulator pack and stopped the brushes from making contact. Cleaning them worked although in the end I replaced the brush pack.

The Quickfist clamps look like a good solution. I fabricated an air filter clamp using 12" perforated strip from Vehicle Wiring Products http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/fasteners/fasteners.php#ps It works ok but isn't as neat.

I would also check the glow plugs. Although the heat light may be illuminated the glow plugs may have gone OC. I had a similar thing happen on my tdi. Each glow plug should have a resistance of about 1 ohm. Mark

Hello, I have been looking at the very same thing and bought sensor PRC7925. With the sensor in one hand and a multi meter in the other I'm finding that the sensor doesn't have any resistance when the level is high (i.e. switch closed) and is effectively open circuit when the level is low. The thing that seems to be in doubt is the current that the switch can cope with? The basic circuit I'm looking at creating the attached circuit Switch open (coolant low) light is on Switch closed (coolant level fine): light off S1 is the coolant switch. R1 is 1k ohm. I can't remember the transistor off the top of my head. It would be easy to put a 'test' switch in series with the coolant sensor to make sure it works but I'm trying to come up with a circuit that has the warning light on for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on (there are a number of ways of dong it but come down to using a capacitor or the field terminal from the alternator). Not sure how much this helps you but I'm happy to share the finished circuit. Regards Mark

No probs. I should have realised a 200/300 tdi does not have an electric fuel pump like NigelW did. As previously mentioned I would try to find out if it was fuel or spark. First thing I tend to do is use a spark tester. I've never run a v8 but if it is old enough to have a distributor I would check the cap and rotor arm (A friends Mercedes failed to start simply due to poor contacts on the rotor arm and cap).

I'm sure someone else will give you a better answer than I can but if that happened to me I would also check the fuel shut off solenoid on the injector pump. Since you have pressure in the fuel rail then chances are it isn't the lift pump although it might be worth checking manually as if you were bleeding a new fuel filter. I assume you there is a reasonable amount of diesel in the tank (just clutching at straws). Mark

I don't know what cheap options there are but I have found Gendan to be helpful in the past. http://www.gendan.co.uk/category_163.html

Apologies, but at the moment it's part of a kit (albeit with a 3 bolt box and metal reservoir) which I'd prefer not to separate. Regards Mark

Managed to dig out the old power steering set up yesterday and draw a template. Let me know if you'd like me to send the template to you. I have also attached a couple of pictures so you can see the plate fitted to the pump and the plate itself. Regards Mark

When I bought my Landrover I tried insuring with NFU but they struggled with modifications. It was a few years ago now so things may have changed. Other than that I would have been happy. For a number of years I was with Flux but they struggled when I changed the engine. I was asked so many questions about the donor vehicle I ended up giving them its registration so they could look up if it was the 'S' or 'SE' version... They also based the increase in premium on the increase in BHP between the two engines. In the end I went to 2Gether Insurance. They were certainly easy to deal with in terms of modifications and I think I benefited on price as the Landrover isn't my everyday vehicle. No idea what they are like when it comes to paying a claim (and I hope I never need to find out) although they made the same statement that they cover the cost of modifications etc as Flux.

OK, I should be able to sort something out for you (this weekend is looking like a busy one but it shouldn't take long to do once I have retrieved the old power steering set up). If it is difficult to modify the original plate then you may be able to approach an engineering company who can cut steel plate with a water jet (or other) to the template. I'll post a picture when it is done and you can PM your address if you would like it posted.

I'll still ask about the bracket when I see the chap. A previous post suggested you do not need it (I'd trust Westerns advice) so I'll just find out if it is available and how much. I might be able to come up with a paper template of the bracket with the elongated holes (that I could post to you) if that would help.

On my 2.25 petrol with the additional pulley fitted the the plate did not have elongated holes to allow the pump to turn and tension the drive belt. The plate with the elongated holes is a much better solution.

Hello, Just found this if it helps with the tensioner. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54003

Regarding the small pulley, I used to have an additional pulley that tensioned the power steering belt on my 2.25 petrol engine. I believe it was fitted to very early systems. When the bearing went in it due to mud etc from off road driving I removed the pulley and fitted a later mounting plate that allows the pump to rotate and tension the belt. I have since sold the petrol engine that would have had the bracket that bolts to the engine. I see that chap that bought it from time to time and would be happy to ask if he wanted to sell it. I also have my old pump, pipes, reservoir and steering box(3 bolt). They are not fitted to the vehicle but are all connected so if I get some time I may be able to dig the out and take a picture if it would help.

Update: I moved the coolant switch to the lower hose and took the 90 for a run. The electric fan didn't run on either the high or low connections so all seems to be well. The air temperature was cooler than when I went for a drive at the weekend but at least I know the radiator is cooling the coolant to less that 88Celsius . The only thing I can say in defence of my stupidity in fitting to the top hose is that I used the X-Eng switch as a handy way extending the top hose when I fitted the engine. That was about 10 months ago; I forgot that I hadn't read the instructions and just fitted it to get the engine running when I wired it up the other weekend. Still - at least I know it will work when the coolant temperature rises enough. Litch - Yes, I have done the same. I have wired the fan to give me 'on-off-auto' options. I have also wired the feed to close the relay to a light on the dash so I know when the fan should be on when I switch it to either on or auto. Thanks again for everyone's help. Mark

Thanks to everyone for replying. Ok, so there are a couple of mistakes on my part, the 200tdi thermostat temperature and where I have fitted the sensor. Just read the X-Eng instructions again and it clearly says bottom hose - Doh! I'll move it to the bottom hose and see how it goes. Mark

I'm interested to know what coolant fan switches are being used for a 300tdi. I have fitted a Discovery 300tdi into an early 90 and opted for an electric cooling fan since the engine is mated to the original LT77 and sits further back than it would with a standard vehicle. There is no shroud behind the radiator. I have used an Intermotor 50091 which has dual switches (all in Celsius): Low: on at 88, off at 83 High: on at 92, off at 87 The switch is fitted on the top hose. I am using the high switch and the problem I have is that once the engine is warm the fan runs constantly. I have no reason to believe the donor vehicle had problems running hot but that doesn't mean it wasn't. The radiator isn't perfect Maybe an electric fan should be able to cool the engine sufficiently to close the thermostat but that does seem a little excessive. From looking at other threads etc I have found the following: 1. The 300tdi is fitted with an 88 degree Celsius thermostat. From what I have read this is the temperature the thermostat starts to open and is fully open at 94 Celsius. The would mean that I'm trying to cool the engine to the point the the thermostat closes which seems wrong. 2. The 200tdi is fitted with an 82 degree Celsius thermostat. Now, assuming it works similar to the 300tdi thermostat it would be fully open at about 88 Celsius. In my mind this works well with the Intermotor 50091 High switch in that the fan will start running a few degrees above the thermostat fully open temperature and stop when the engine has cooled enough but the thermostat is still pretty much open. I'm struggling with the Low setting a little as the fan would be on once the engine had reached operating temperature. So, Given that, for a 200tdi, the fan comes on 6 degrees above the thermostat fully open and stops 1 degree below fully open surely for a 300tdi I need the fan to come on at 100 Celsius and off at 93 Celsius? I'm not sure it's good to have the engine run that hot, therefore I'd look at one of the switches where the fan come son at 97 Celsius and off at 92. Can anyone tell me the switch they are running on a 300tdi or if my thinking is correct? Thanks Mark

Only other thing I have heard of is a blocked(or partially blocked) breather on the fuel tank. This doesn't quite fit with needing the fuel tank to be a least a quarter full though. Easiest way to test is when the engine fails to run remove the filler cap, replace and all should be well. If nothing else it is simple to try. HTH Mark

Hello, As you have a TPS I'm assuming you also have a MAF sensor. I have known these to cause lack of power and erratic idling. HTH Mark

Hello, Apologies if anyone has already mentioned this but early(?) RRC axles have one shock absorber facing forward and one facing rearwards; not the end of the world but another difference. As mentioned above I would swap the whole axle over. IIRC the stub axles are a different size and there is no mount for the brake caliper. When I looked into this I also checked the price of replacement parts; the stub axle for a RRC was about twice that of the later metric axles. You can, however, fit metric hubs to an earlier imperial axle casing (keeping the earlier brake calipers I believe).

Hello, I have found Loctite 8040 Freeze and Release quite good (even if you need to apply over a period of time). I guess opinions will vary on this product. MW

Like a number of others I have fitted a Discovery 300Tdi to an early LT77. MW

Hello, The engine is closer to the bulkhead than the radiator as I kept the LT77 and existing mounts. Local breakers do not have any 200tdi pipes available to I'll probably go down the hose and clamps route. Thanks Mark

Hello, I have just fitted a Discovery 300tdi into my 90 (was 2.25 petrol). Amongst a number of things to tidy the Discovery fuel pipes are too short. Does anyone know what will fit? I have been looking at 200 tdi pipes ESR394 and ESR395. Thanks Mark