MuddyWinny

I fitted and X-Brake a number of years ago due to problems with mud in the drum brake and have to agree that it doesn't clog up with mud. I'm one of those happy customer but I do have a problem similar to what you describe. As the disc rotates I can hear it brushing against the pads at a certain point. Removing the centre seat and arranging this so that you can turn the disc by hand (e.g. jack up a rear wheel - chocking the fronts) I could see that the disc appeared to have runout, i.e. when looking carefully at the disc and the bracket the disc appeared to 'wobble'. No matter how much I adjust the caliper once the hand brake has been applied the caliper automatically adjusts so that it is close enough for the disc to brush against the pads one each rotation (but not constantly is that makes sense). A photo of mine would show uneven pad wear and the disc scrubbed clean unevenly. Since the apparent runout can be seen simply by looking I have tried placing other flat steel against the disc to see if it was warped (edge of a steel ruler and so forth) but everything points to the the disc being ok. Trying a fiend's disc didn't cure the problem. I spoke to Simon who was very helpful and suggested that there was a problem with the output flange (dirt between the disc and the flange, or possibly the flange not being machined square). Maybe it's worth mentioning I'd fitted a cheap flange from a blue box.... I would have thought you'd get the same symptoms if there was play in the output bearings. Happy to post a couple of pictures if anyone thinks it would help.

That's a fair point about the noise going when the clutch is disengaged. The noise I had sounded different and was louder on acceleration (i.e. when torque applied from the engine). Apologies if I've added confusion to the mix.

I had a whirring noise proportional to road speed and put it down to gearbox bearings. A number of months later (I don't do that many miles in a year) I heard a 'ping' when pulling away although all seemed ok. It tuned out to be the cross pin in the front diff which had worn to the point of snapping. With a decent second hand diff fitted things were a bit quieter.

I always measure the voltage with load and no load at idle and about 1500prm, i.e. no load would be engine running everything electrical switched off where possible, load would be lights on( including main bean) etc. As above 13.8 - 14.4 volts, especially under load is ideal however I personally wouldn't worry if there were 13.4v under load. I was once told by a chap who rebuilt alternators 13v under load is ok .

Nige, I ran a second pipe alongside the raised air intake (fortunately it is the same side). Can't say it is particularly elegant though. It has restricted the air flow a little but at least I get some vague waft of warmth out of the heater. Mark

Thanks Western. Nice to know there are 6 on the block. Since the diagram doesn't show the core plug at the back of the block I wasn't sure whether ERC4996 was the right part or not. ejparrott - I'm aware of a couple of engineering companies but I'm not sure whether they build as well as re-bore/ skim etc. One does sell parts such as pistons etc so is worth asking. Thanks again. Mark

Western, Thanks for replying but I need the core plugs for the block. Are these the same as the ones in the cylinder head or is there another parts diagram somewhere? Thanks Mark

Unfortunately one of the core plugs on my 300tdi is leading coolant. I seen that in addition to steel brass replacements are also available (although not from LRDirect etc it would seem) Can anyone comment on whether it is worth trying to get hold of brass ones? Also, is there any particular type of sealant to use when when fitting as new one? I've seen Loctite 638 recommended but would be interested to know if any threadlock/bearing fix or possibly rtv sealant would work. Since I'm replacing the core plug at the back of the block I really don't want to see it leaking after I've put everything back together so any advice is welcome. Thanks Mark

Would anyone be able to to know the part number for core plugs for a 300tdi? The engine is from a 1994 Discovery. Specifically, it is the core plug at the back of the block (not the one in the head) that has failed and leaking coolant. Actually there are two at the back of the block, one smaller than the other and it is the smaller one, that has failed (I believe the larger one has oil behind it so is less likely to need replacing). Are all the 'coolant core plugs' the same size and hence same part number? Thanks Mark

Nice to know I'm not the only one who does that... (including the last water pump replaced) I agree with vulcan bomber although with heat and a blowtorch you may be able to get it apart. Not sure I'd trust one I'd put back together enough to fit it.

If it helps, I stuck my one with RTV sealant years ago and it has been fine, even with mud and wading. Shame I can't remember what sealant I used though.

Thanks for all the help, most appreciated. I'm tempted to try the JB weld on the back of the water pump housing where the p-gasket has left an impression and there has been some corrosion. I guess I'll need to be very careful or I'll put the alternator and water pump pulleys out of alignment with the others.

After an episode with the front diff the other month I posted a thread on this forum asking for help and a number of people recommended speaking to Nige. A couple of weeks ago I dropped off one diff in need of some TLC and another that was very unloved and today I picked up two lovely shiny working ones. Thank you to every one who recommended that I speak to Nige. Nige, Thank you, your help is most appreciated. You also have the patience of a saint answering the 101 questions I had. Not sure the rest of the family understand my excitement over a super flange :-) Mark

Thank you for all your replies. I make sure the surfaces are clean and free from the old gasket etc but there are a few marks where someone has removed the diffs before. I've tried to make sure there are no raised points but there's a limit to how good it'll ever be. I have 2 diffs to fit so I'll try one with a greased gasket an the other with RTV and see how it goes. Mark

For some reason, after a while I seem to find damp oil patches where the diff housing hasn't sealed to the axle casing properly. Normally I use sealant (black silicone or Hylomar blue and a gasket. This time I was going to try black silicone sealant with no gasket. Euro car parts sell Loctite SI 5940 (and Sikaflex - this came up from a google search - but it seems more for filling gaps in bodywork?) Halfords sell Granville Instant Gasket (never had much luck with instant gasket) and Granville Black Silicone Sealant. At the moment I'm tempted for the Loctite SI5940. Can anyone recommend a silicone sealant that worked well for them? Thanks Mark

Thanks to all for the advice. I'll not paint the inside of the axle but will make change the oil more frequently and make sure I drive the 90 to work every couple of weeks Mark

That was what I was hoping but the Landrover has sat for a month or two for one reason or another. I guess simply using it more may be the solution. Thanks Mark

With the front and rear diffs removed I noticed that some rust has formed on the inside of the front axle case (I guess more frequent oil changes are needed...) The rear case (it is a later case with disc brakes) has been painted inside which I assume was done by Landrover but the front isn't. After removing the rust is there any recommended paint I can use on the inside of the front axle to help protect it? I didn't want to simply use Hammerite etc in case it didn't agree with EP90 and I end up with damaging the differential (ok - so rust isn't that kind to differentials either). Does anyone know what paint Landrover would have used at the factory? Thanks Mark

I thought the drive shaft end float is how tight the CV joint is in the stub axle whereas the hub end float is the play in the bearings Last time I replaced the stub axle I spent far too long trying to set the driveshaft end float with various combinations of shims.

All, Thanks for replying. I'll contact Nige. Mark

For the first time ever I have manged to destroy the front diff on my 90. It happened while out green laining and driving gently. I have done a number of pay and play days but not for a couple of years now. It's a 1986 90 with standard Discovery 300Tdi fitted. The front diff came from a V8 range rover (due to the original one having play in the pinion bearings) so it probably had a few miles on it when I fitted it. I'd say that generally I have a light right foot except for the odd occasion when I've really tried to climb various slopes. It's probably a common failure. The shaft/pin that the pinion gears mount on has worn and finally snapped. Reading the Ashcroft web site it says that the rover diff does suffer from the pinion gears friction welding to the pin and then breaking. This may be similar but the pinion gears are certainly not welded to the pin. In terms for a replacement there is a company local enough to me that will rebuild the old original diff. However, I also have a 10 spline ARB locker (RD03?) that I bought second hand in the shed that I never fitted (another story). I'm tempted to fit the ARB as I believe it is stronger than the standard diff but I'd prefer to have it checked before it is fitted correctly (it is fitted but the carrier bearings are lose). The last time I checked it locked and unlocked ok but needed new o-rings as they leaked air occasionally when the crown wheel rotated. Unfortunately the local company are not keen on dismantling the ARB unit but are happy to fit it into a diff. The last time I considered having it checked I spoke to Steve at Crown Diffs but I understand he no longer provides this service. The questions I have are: 1. It is still; possible to get spares for the RD03? (I haven't tried exhaustively but a few searches on google fails to find the o-rings) 2. Does anyone know who could check the ARB locker? I am aware of Ashcroft but they always seemed to be more expensive than Crown Diffs. 3. Is it possible to dismantle it yourself? 4. With regards to the failure is this inevitable from pay and play days or just my failure to change the diff oil often enough? Finally, I know there is someone else on this forum who generally suffers an injury and in no way am I trying to steal their crown but, why is blood always involved when working on a Landrover? Just when I though I'd got away with without being cut, scraped, gouged etc the old front diff got me after taking it out of the shed: At the moment I'm 50:50 between fitting a standard diff and hoping it doesn't suffer the same fate and fitting the ARB unit and hoping it is ok. Any help is most appreciated. Thanks Mark

Have you contacted Exmoor Trim? It is one of their kits so I don't see why you can't seek their advice.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, all three are 100 amp. I'll take a look at Bosch. Mark

Thank for your reply. I can pick up an exchange unit for £80 to £90. I was just wondering if there was any preference in the two designs.

It's time for a new alternator and I was wondering if there is a reason to buy a particular version other than pulley size and price. The 300tdi came from a M reg Discovery. The alternator currently fitted has the smaller diameter pulley and is not the original one (no surprise) so I don't know what pulley size was originally fitted. So far I have learn't: YLE10113 - Fitted to early 300Tdi engines AMR4248 - Fitted 94-96 now supersedes to AMR5425 AMR5425 - Fitted 97-98 All 3 are still available. Looking at Denso, prices vary from £116 for YLE10113 to £162 for AMR4248. AMR5425 is around £125. Is there reason to favour AMR5425 over YLE10113? I can see the the casing is different between the two with AMR5425 looking like it has more vents and would possible cool better. Does anyone know of any reason to favour one over the other? Thanks Mark