rrover

Why the notch? Wouldn't want to do that to my hinges. Much easier to leave it as it is and plug the hole and only fit the grease nipple as you want to grease.

http://www.bajatech.nl/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=73&products_id=204 Available at LRspareparts.com.

We have fitted Renault Espace type IV rear seats in the back of my brothers 90. They have integrated seat belts and come with rails so can be easily removed or slide into another position. The seats are very safe and have isofix system. They fit just between the wheel arches and the rails can easily be bolted through the floor woth a big, thick support plate underneath the car. The seats are not cheap (at least over here in Holland). Another advantage is that the kids sit a little higher so can see forward as well. Another option might be the rear seats of a Discovery (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190519035362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT). Don't know if they will fit. Bidding has ended but maybe you can buy them somewhere near to you.

Maybe this is what your looking for. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190519035362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Maybe you can use them as bed when folded down?

Or try this: http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php?page=75

Here is how I did mine. Made from the standard 200Tdi exhaust. If it ever rots I will have it copied and made from SS . There is also a bracket with rubber damper in the wheel arch but not shown on the pictures. It is a tight fit. Also made the SS bling bling ring round the exhaust

they are not the same length. The Disco box has a longer input shaft and bell housing.

Also check the viscous unit. I found that is was not working properly (engine running hot on long slopes on the motorway in Switserland, but all fine at low speed) and after fixing the viscous unit to the nut that screws onto the pulley the engine temp was fine going up the Gotthard pass. Temp was slightly left of the centre on the meter. I fixed it with a piece of rope, pulled tight between the viscous unit and the nut and tightened the end of the rope around two oposite fan blades.

Thanks again

thanks, Just had a look and on mine (Magneti Marelli) the W is present as on on the picture. Not sure if this is the same as W+ but will see if the cruise and rev counter work.

A friend of me also wants to cenvert his Salisbury drum axle to disc. he has an ARB locker and HD halfshafts which he would like to keep. So preferably he would like to keep his axle as much as possible. Is it possible to make some caliper brackets (copy from original as I have discs) and weld them to the axle? He would buy new calipers, discs and pads but what about the hub? What can he use for that? Second hand disc axles are very thin here in Holland and if you find one they are expensive and require a lot af new parts. Any ideas?

Hi All, Does anybody now if there is a W+ connection on a standard 65 Amp alternater of a '98 110 300Tdi? It's an AMR4249 if I'm correct. If not can I make one? Other possibility would be an upgrade to a 100Amp (AMR4248) because I know that one has a W+. But that would also mean an upgrade in the wiring if I'm correct. What should I upgrade and how much? Thanks

Thanks adam but I'm looking for the pré 1987 books. Must be mistaking then if Western doesn't know them it probably doesn't exists.

Hi all, If I remember correctly the above was posted here a while ago. Unfortunately I lost it and a search didn't result in finding it. I'm not looking for the 1987 - 2006 90/110/130 Defender parts manual because I still have that in print. Anybody know where to find it? Thanks!

Hi all, I want to change the drum braked rear axle from my '86 ninety for a banjo type (so not Salisbury) 110 Td5 rear axle because I have that available and it is in nearly new condition. My drum braked axle has a Detroit locker and KAM HD shafts in it which I would like to keep. They are only 2 years old. I want to put the complete diff unit of my drum braked axle including the HD half shafts into the 110 Td5 axle. Will this fit? I know there is a difference in length of the half shafts (KAM shafts are to long) but a guy from KAM once told me that it is no problem to grind them to the correct length. He also explained that my HD shafts do no have the area for the seal so the bearings will run in oil. I do not see a problem with that because old Land Rovers had that also if I'm correct. Will this cause a problem? But what about the diff? Is the stud patern the same? The Banjo diff is shorter. Does this mean the disance from the centre of the shafts to the mating surface of axle - diff is also different? I would like to know before I start taken it all apart and finding out it doesn't fit. Thanks for your help guys!

http://www.1010tires.com

Thanks, In the UK that probably doesn't mean much but for registartion in Holland it's very important that it's all correct. I'trying to figure out what should be on the chassis. The VIN plate has stars and there is nothing on the chassis because that was replaced by a new one at some point in time.

Thanks! Just looked at the Range Rover restorers guide by James Taylor and that mentions that they started using the VIN from 1st of November 1979. Doesn't mention when the BL logo was used but there are examples of VIN plates. A '83 and '85 plate have the stars and an earlier example has the BL logo. Can I safely assume that if the VIN plate has stars that the chassisnumber should also have stars?

Hi, On some cars Land Rover used a star* before and after the chassis number on the chassis and on others they used the British Leyland Logo (circular logo). Does anybody of you know over which period they used the Logo and when they used the star? When did they start using the SALL.... type of VIN numbers (instead of just a number)? Many thanks for your help!

Your belt wont last long with oil on it. Did you use the penny trick? Solved my problem by putting a thin washer between engine and tensiner on one side. It sometimes it misalligned resulting in the noise.

Thanks for the info So the change was somewere in 1989? Don't need to know it exacly.

Hi Guys, Any of you know when Land Rover changed the Range Rover chassis from the box type A-frame support cross bar to the round A-frame support cross bar? Item 15 on this picture shows the box type cross bar. Thanks, Rob Edit: Upload did not work so here is a link to the picture I mean. http://images.google.nl/imgres?imgurl=http://www.landroverspecialist.nl/assets/images/chassis4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.landroverspecialist.nl/html/body_range_rover.html&usg=__VnD0my-Os3oK7XASOcoMOoBg-mQ=&h=398&w=374&sz=33&hl=nl&start=18&um=1&tbnid=MUusVsgJql3-SM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=117&prev=/images%3Fq%3Drange%2Brover%2Bchassis%26hl%3Dnl%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 Scroll down to the chassis section

This is how I did it on my 200Tdi. Bracket on the last pipe not on picture. Made the finisher also.

Hi, I have a 1986 Ninety with Defender 200Tdi engine and my LT77 needs replacing. I have an R380 with LT230 from a 1995 Defender 90 at hand. Is it a straight foreward swop or do I need to make modifications? If so, what kind of modifications. Thanks for your help. Cheers, Rob

I used to order from Paddock but after a few problems with the Britpart rubbis I tought: Lets try onother one. So just ordered a pair of 3 degree corrected radius arms from them and at the website the picture is clerly of the QT 3degree so I assumed that is what i get. To my surprise it's Britpart and at a lot of places the paint is non existent. You can clearly see the paint is put on the bare metal. rubbish. I want to return them so will send a complaint first. Might change my mind based on the negitive feedback for getting your moneyback. Won't be buying there again! Where to buy??????