VERY OLD DISCO

Now I can answer my own query, it might help others...... The universal joints steering shaft was seized, despite being heavily greased, the damper had a large dent in it, and I replaced the steering box seals for good measure. That UJ and shaft was the main problem, have you checked yours lately? You have to get it off as I found out. Its like a racing car now :-) Geoff

It takes me about an hour, but then I am so skilled and knowledgable it is incredible. For a normal person I would allow 2 to 3 hours, support the axle on stands or blocks, chock the wheels, or it will fall on your leg, how do I know this? The hub seal should (I am advised) be fitted with the spring outer most. I always used to fit them the other way (spring in) but now do it proper, it keeps the water and mud out this way, (but what keeps the grease in?) still it has never leaked grease so it must be right. Crack the drive member bolts while the wheel is on the ground, it easier. Oil may come out, dont worry, its a Land Rover, just put some grease in on re assembly. Some bearings have an outer seal, some dont, make sure you get the right bits and dont mix the two sorts up. Geoff

OK Jonathon, thanks for the feedback, my first thought was a slipping belt (tightened), also bled the box. But even with the wheels off the ground, the engine dead and the drop arm ball joint disconnected it was still stiff, not sure how the "power assist" works though so it might be something to do with that. Geoff

After a recent green laning expedition my Disco developed stiff (heavy) steering with some tight (er) spots causing lack of self centring. I removed the damper (no difference) the I removed both wheels and now have the thing on blocks at the front. Having removed the drop arm ball joint the stiffness was still there. So I backed off the adjustment on the top of the box, no difference. The shaft from the box to the steering column (the one with UJs on it) is free and well greased. Having decided that the fault must lie in the box itself I have removed it (crikey what a lot of oil) strange thing is, it feels OK now its off the vehicle, I can turn it easily with a pair of mole grips without any sign of stiffness or tight spots. I have a second hand box on the way so I will fit that and see. Any ideas anyone? Geoff

Oven cleaner, its caustic so wear gloves, dont leave it to long else it discolours the ali. Geoff

Rust makes them stick on. The drum has to be wet (inside) a bit of salt helps it to stick, and if it freezes that helps as well. Try applying the hand brake very slowly until it just bites (on the move) that gets most of the rust off and might help. Dont snatch it on or kiss something goodbye, mainshaft, half shaft etc. Only do it for a short (10 secs) time as it makes it get hot. Anon (in case you break something)

Scrapyards are the best, cheap anyway, they usually have something beefy and it might even go round the right way and have the right pulleys. If it doesnt work most give some sort of warranty (1 day 1week or something). Or you can pay about £80 and get one from a rebuilder. Geoff

Go to the dry cleaners and take a metal can with you. One litre should be enough. Smile sweetly at the lady (go on, you know you can do it) and ask her to sell you some dry cleaning fluid. It is something like Perchlorethylene AKA "PERK" . That cleans anything off anything, it does disolve some plastics and paint though. Oh, and it sends you to sleep, permanantly if your not careful. I use it all the time, gets grease spots off your jumper as well. Geoff

Shropshire for ever, loads of proper lanes, little used, good pubs, cheap B&B Oh! and its just round the corner for me. :-) Geoff

Mine didnt work properly for long the right way up, the chromed rod went rusty and the seals went, in the bin they went. Geoff

Its to late now but sometimes if you get a bit of tube just big enough to fit over the insulator, (but not so small as to bind on it) it should rest on the hexagon flats but be too small to fit over if you know what I mean, then strike it with a hammer a couple of times. This compresses the alloy seat a small amount and breaks the seal of the thread. dont break the ceramic if you can avoid it (in your case ignore this). This also work well on seized wheel nuts etc. Blue tack on the end of a piece of dowel will lift any ceramic bits, one of those magnets on a stick will lift the steel bits. any bits left in will jam between the piston and cylinder, best lift the head. Geoff

I have got 3off 12v relays, 230v 16A switching contacts Normaly open or normaly closed, made by Omron. You can have em if you want? You would need to solder them onto Veroboard or similar to make the 230V connections absolutley safe and then insulate and earth them properly. Geoff

[Take the wheel off and the trackrods etc., remove the bolts holding the oil seal in place, remove the seal and undo the 2 bolts holding the top pin in, work it out, remove shims as reqd and do up again, check preload with a spring balance in the trackrod hole etc.etc. I suppose you are meant to drain the swivel housing but I normally put a tray under it and top up as required. From Geoff........... If you take any shims out, the small bolts around the seal "holder" must be removed to allow the seal to centralise, you might get away with a couple of thou but you might not. I suggest you take the lot apart and have a look at the bearings, if they have done 70 to 80 K they are probably worn, adjusting them will then only work for a short while, its as if something accelerates the wear, is it the surface, or the case hardening woearing off? I dont know, but do it proper then you dont have to do it again. Oh! watch the oil doesnt go everywhere, specially on the brakes, use a sheet of card or something to direct it into a tray. Better still drain it through the very small drain hole, this takes a long time, I take it out the night before and leave it overnight. Geoff

Just thought I would post a reply, it gets my numbers up anyway, ahving looked at the pics all I can say is "what good luck!" it could have been very very much worse. A bit of steel and a MIG welder and the jobs done. Shouldnt take more than an afternoon. Pump it full of waxoil afterwards, then when you weld it next time you can get a really good fire going. Welding is not hard to learn, particularly MIG. An hours intruction should get you going. Are you anywhere near Bromsgrove? I will show you how. Geoff

I made my own panels out of galvanised steel, a bit more difficult to weld, but should last. Take the wing off and have a look at the steel work behind the wing panel, be prepared for a shock. Get new plastic "rivets" for the plastic mud protector, they are a pig to re-use. My MOT man wasn't sure if they were a failure, but suggested I do them anyway. If you go to your local heating duct manufacturer they will have a skip full of off cuts of galvanized steel. Slip the guy who is standing nearest the roller shutter door a fiver and he will let you go into the skip and recycle all those offcuts. Then he will do the bends for you on the bending machine. Well, he did for me anyway, it pays to be old and wearing dirty jeans with holes in sometimes. Steptoe

OK Rob, I dont mind if the ride is a bit harder, a gentle lift would be about right, I just want to allow for the weight of the winch,bumper, steering guard etc, So if you have a pair of rears that might do the job. I have done the job before, all the threads are copper greased they should fly off. The turrets should be OK, I welded new studs on last time. Let me know about the springs. Geoff

Nice one Les, just like I have been doing it for 20 years, I never knew you were not supposed to split them so I always just did it. I have never had any problem with the calipers as a result. Might I remind everyone that almost any liquid left in the system apart from brake fluid will B8gg*r things up. Also, red brake grease is made for the job of lubricating seals when fitting. It also helps to stop corrosion if lightly smeared on rubber and steel bits. Dont put it on the pads or discs though :-) Geoff PS I have never been able to get replacement "o" rings for between the calipers, I re-use the old ones, it seems OK if they are in good condition.

Hello all, I am going to buy a pair of "heavy duty" (standard height) springs for the front of my 1993 Disco, I have a winch etc and the front is a bit low, I think the new springs will put it on a more even keel. The existing front springs are not very old, so, can I fit them on the back? Are the front standard springs stiffer (more pounds) than the standard rear springs? Any other comments? Any idea where in the UK I can buy just the front "C" arm polybushes (two to the axle and the "doughnut") I dont want a full kit. Geoff Added : The heavy duty springs are listed on MM 4x4 http://www.mm-4x4.com/Shop/index.htm at about £10.00 each. I will go and have a look. If not the spacers look good. Geoff

I am going to Croatia as well, if that bl**dy old thing breaks down in Croatia and have to spend my holiday fixing it I will blame you lot. I think I will take a spare engine complete and 4 wheel bearing kits plus 4 prop repair kits, Oh! I best take a pair of axles and diffs as well. That should do it, if not it's a can of petrol and a box of matches. Geoff (Dad)

Your wish is my command, please send your full address and location so I may visit with my chain saw

No message. Do I look good or what?

See reply added by me. The post is still valid though, just the wrong name etc....

The Lumiweld stuff is not good, its ok for "splodge" solder type joints but having tried it it is hard to keep a nice neat finish. And its BL**dy expensive. If I was doing it I would mig weld it out of some nice thick plate ("3mm ?) and then have it galvanised (hot dip, proper job) should see you out! Geoff