stuntman

Right, the wires on the stop solenoid are: White - red trace Black - purple trace Brown - I don't think there is a trace on this one. I can't check which one is live as The engine has come from a donor 300 tdi and I have a V8 body. I need to take a 12v supply to one of the above wires. Has anyone done this before?? Thanks in advance Andi K

Ok, I've given up for the day. I've tried putting 12v to each of the 3 wires whilst cranking the engine over and I've had no joy. Grrr. Can anyone tell me which one it is, or has anyone done this before?? Thanks in advance Andi

Thanks Jim! I will have a proper look after I finish wiring the rest of the engine. I'm only about 4 wires away

It's always handy to know what boost the turbo is running at, so I would say yes

We've used 7 core trailer cabling in the past for doing the rear of one off projects, it keeps things very simple, a fair few rally boys use it aswell, as they make a juction box at the back and split the cable from there,

So the potentiometer thing isn't needed to make the engine run, I take it this is the device that works with the egr? Brilliant, thanks for clearing that up

Hello one and all, I have discovered I have a 3 wire version of the fuel pump on my 300tdi. As below: What I'd like to know is, I believe one of these is a negative wire and another a 12v feed from the ignition and the final one a live from the immobiliser. Is this right? If so, do I just need to take the earth to a good earthing point. and then take a wire to the 12v ignition wire? And then one to the immobiliser? Thanks in advance everyone! Regards Andi

Hello once again everyone. I'm now at the point where I have managed to do the following: Wire up the lights: DONE Wire up the transfer box and reverse switch: DONE Horns: DONE Brush Wires: DONE Fuel sender swap: DONE Fuel lines: DONE Connect engine up properly: DONE Final engine wiring: Finish the front floor fabrication: DONE Sound proofing kit: DONE Sound proof the roof: DONE Sort the roof lining: DONE Carpet: DONE Dash board wiring: DONE AND RE-DONE Sound system: CB: Accessories: Suspension finalisation: DONE - Thanks Duffdeff Front prop: DONE Rear diff seal: New wing mirrors: DONE Work lamps: Tow bar electrics: Finish painting the underside of the truck: DONE Secure the front wings: Service: Fabricate exhaust: DONE Front pads, clean callipers: DONE Alarm: Secure new front window: DONE Side steps: Full breather system: PART DONE New brake pipes all round: DONE Extended Flexi brake line: DONE New Wheel cylinders: DONE Interior Lights: DONE New Seat belt Mounts: DONE Twin batteries: Winch: Silicone sealant up certain places: DONE I've managed to get all this done in a very short space of time (a week of nights) and I've come to making the engine from the donor 300 tdi run. I've asked before and people have told me I need to have constant power to the stop solenoid? and also a starting wire to the starter motore. I'm faily sure i can sort the the starting wire, and I also have a constant 12v supply from the key for the stop solenoid. Is this right? What do I need to do for the glow plugs and the sensors? I'm sorry for keep asking but I'm now on a roll and really want to get the truck running! Thanks in advance everyone. Also is there an ecu on the 300? Well heres hoping someone can give me an idiots guide to getting her going Here's a as bought, 24hours later and how she id now:

My local lost my company car money aswell. I walked, a 26 year old in, admitedly shabby clothes, asked to speak to the fleet salesman regarding purchasing a new double cab, but I would be wanting the full options list, he looked me up and down and said "are you sure you can afford one!", I said rather loudly I had a cheque book in my back pocket and he was not going to be seeing it. With that i knocked on the managers door, gave him a brief over view of what just happened, and also told him about the 7 vehicles that my family own and the fact I was looking at replacing my 3 transit vans with two 90's and a 110. It's nice being young and having a lot of spending power

Thanks everyone, sorry I have said so earlier, the elasticrickery is a dark art to me which I'm slowly getting to grips with

You sir are a gentleman. I'll be playing tonight

Hello David. I have 12v live in the normal position constantly, even when the key is then turned the starting/ cranking position, this position gives a 12v feed to another wire that is only live when the key is in this position.

Les, I have 12v when the key is on the ignition live postition, normal running postion. And I have 12v when I turn the key to start. I just need to know where i connect these to

Hello one and all. I know I've been asking a lot of questions the last week or two but I really need help with this one. I have a 300 tdi engine mounted where my V8 used to be. I have managed to sort the ignition wiring and I now have a constant 12v supply wire (when key in normal running postion) and one that is a 12v supply when the ignition is used (spring loaded key position for starting) My questions are, where do I connect these! I'm sorry for all these seemingly stupid questions but I'm so closed to finishing my dream landy, I just want to hear it run!. Thanks in advance Andi PS I'm alwyas greatfull for any help.

Hello one and all Can anyone tell me what the two bottom fuses are on both sides of the main fuse box. I have a V8 CSW, 1989. I really can't find my cover, it's in the garage somewhere but I just can't find it

Yup, remove your old engine to g'box housing and swap with the one on the 300

That's fantastic mate, it explains alot! The only thing I need now is how it connects behind the trim I'll see if anyone else can help with this one!!! Thanks Mad

Hello one and all, can anyone help with a picture or two of where the seatbelt reel should sit, I have a CSW which was robbed of all the seatbelts before I got it. I'm coming to the end of a rebuild but the belts are causing some confusion as I'm struggling to find where the 2nd row of belts attach and anchor. Please help!!!!!! Thanks in advance Andi

You should try to push for a rebuilt axle and diff, or at least get the pay out and stick a new secondhand one in there

Ah, I have a square pin protruding out where the cable should plug in, I take then this is part of the transducer and can be removed, I've tried to get it out but t seemed to be wel stuck in, I'll resort to a little bit of hea then and try to get it out again. Thanks for all the replies

Well put Paul. that's what I meant

I have a mechanical speedo and a new speedo cable right here, however my gearbox is electrical drive. So do I just pull the electrical transducer off and replace it with the cable drive? Can I ask for an idiots guide to doing this As I'm having a bit of a simple moment

Hello one and all, can some one help with this at all? Is it possible to swap from electrical speedo to mechanical cable? If so how Thanks in advance Andi

Hello again, sorry but the fuel pump is cabled not drive by wire like suggested.

Cool thatnks for that chap