stuntman

Thanks for that!

Hello everyone, just a quick question. Has anyone got a diagram for a spot light relay. I've wired up 4 Wipac 8" spot on the roof and 2 on the front. I also have 4 of the small wipacs under the front of the rack as a light bar. I will be using a relay for every 2 wipacs. I have run a medium weight power cable in a 'daisy chain' fashion to each pair of 8" wipacs. All are earthed properly. I have a fused power lead to each relay . I also have a switch wired in and a wire run to the relay. So I have the following wires. power to lamp power from battery earth for relay switch wire. Can anyone please help with these issues, and help out with a diagram for the relay? Thanks in advance. Andi

Do one side at a time. However, if you start at the front and remove the spring and the old shock, and only place the new spring into the front spring holder and seat. The go and remove the back spring and replace with the new spring. so you can see how it sits and if it's the wrong way round, it's easy to swap around without having to remove the front shock. It's a real pain but a 2" lift should only take about 2 hours to do. Don't forget the spring retainers and the dislocation cones. and the bump stops and the extended lines etc. A small tip is that whilst the springs are out, drill the captive nut threads out on the spring seat and make sure you can get the bolts through that are supplied with retainers.

Don't buy the paddocks kit, it's really, really poo. If you want to kill the noise, seroiusly purchase a noise blaket from noisekiller, advertised in the usual magazines. I was passenger in one and couldn't belive the difference.

I've just sorted out my heater last night, badly adjusted top cable! However, what does the side cable do? mine doesn't seem to move to much?

I'll be rebuilding my front seats with new bases and covers, so I'll be looking at inserting some heated bases and trying to sort my heater out!

Keep it up John, I'm really interested in this build. Your forging a path for the rest of us bench top builders. I've just finished building a 110 from the ground up and I really want to stick a variable turbo onto it

Hello mate. Try Manchester Fluid Systems - number on google Or Advanced Maintenance Supplies - 01332 68 00 11 5mm is an odd ball size but you get them easily enough.

Glad your sorted mate, well it's something else I now know to check if I have the same symptoms.

Thank you all for the responses. I think I'll head for Clare then and use it as a travelling base. Im really looking forward to it to be honest!

Brilliant, thanks for that K

Hello one and all. I was wondering if someone could help, this is what I'm looking to do: Travel Via ferry to southern Ireland, on the 16th of December, returning on the 20th of December. I'd like to go to either Cork or Limmerick, ideally somewhere myself and the other half can do the Irish experience, Irish music and culture etc. I'm just a little shocked at the prices for the ferry, I'm in a defender 110 with 2" lift and a roof rack, so I know I'm getting charged extra for the height and length. Can anyone recomend either Cork or Limmerick or anywhere else that would be great to seen? Maybe some laning with some of you Irish Lads . And maybe an idea on costs, I know I'm asking alot but I thought you may be able to help. Thanks in advance Andi

Can you blow the bulb by removing the dash and fiddleing with the connects or even black out panel between the bulb and the fascia? Not condoning it but I would

That's what I have fitted, but not the led side lights. very bright, especially with beefed up wiring!

Not sure Malcy but it does sound a little like a sysmptom of a failed lift pump that I'm experiencing

That diagram helped me aswell Western when you posted it up on one of questions. It's also helpful to download the wiring colours, I found it easily on google, and the colours for the main body electrics are the same for petrol and diesel.

The pipes are connected as follows: Senser unit on side of tank, changed to diesel - connected to fuel lift pump Return pipe connected to the return pipe on the side of the tank, The petrol fuel pump is still in the tank in the middle with the outlet pipe blanked offand the wires disconected. Effectively dud. I'm leaning towards the lift pump being suspect then.

James, which one have you gone for?

Les that sounds about right, do you think the pipe setup is fine? So would the lift pump account for the fuel draining back and the lack of power?

Hello one and all. I have converted a V8 CSW to a 300tdi, using a disco engine and box. I have used the V8 petrol tank and replaced the petrol sender on the side of the tank with a diesel one with a pick up pipe. The petrol fuel pump is still in the tank but not connected - ie the wiring disconected. Now this is where i don't know if I've gone wrong. I have used the pick up on the side of the tank as the in-feed fot the lift pump and then I have attached the return pipe from the fuel pump to the return pipe on the fuel tank on the opposite side of tank to the fuel sender. The car did run and drive, but was vaery down on power and when i backed of the throttle it stalled. and I tried to drive up a hill that was local to me and it just lost power and stalled. And after the truck has been idling then it is turned off, you can here the fuel draining back into the tank, through the return pipe, surely it should stay primed? There is no sedimeter on this, do I need it? PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP! I have the MOT booked tomorrrow and I only have this afternoon to sort it and a few other problems out Thanks in advance Andi

Thanks western!

Hello one and all, I just need a little help on sorting out my 2nd row seat belts. I haven't got any mounting points either on the sides or on the tub, I ideally need to sort something for the sides, where the reel sits behind the CSW trim and then goes up to the top point of the 3 point seat belt system. Has anyone got a part number for this at all? I'll need the left and the right hand sides if possible. Also, can anyone help me sort where the female part of the belt fixes to the rear tub? Well here's hoping! Andi

Yep, all you need is an angle grinder and some pop rivets. There are plenty of write ups on the 'net of how to do it. I believe it's known as a king cab. If you want to do it to your vehicle go for it mate, it's easy enough to buy another roof and side panels if you don't like it.

Sorted. Remove the black box, which has an internal circuit board and immobiliser, either by way of drilling out the 2 studs or landrover tool number one and three (large hammer and chissel). This will reveal the stop solenoid hidden inside the box! Great. I now just have to get it running

Hello David, these are nothing to do with the egr The 3 wires come out of the stop solenoid on side of the fuel pump by the injector pipe outlets. It's causing me a slight head ache to say the least