stuntman

Haha, yes I have. I do however only take about two 3 hour sessions to do, and it will probably take another 3 hours for the wiring in and final trimming up.

After DIY chequer plating the bonnet and sides I've made this. I just need to board out my home made roof rack now I know there is a gap at the top but I'll trim the panel down and edge it with thick black door seal rubber to contour to the roof. And yes I'm having a push button start Andi K

I had my own spacers made up by the local metal merchant, x10 40mmx50mm round bar with a hole through, and x10 longer M10 s/s bolts and s/s nylocs. I bought the extended tie rod kit from wizrd for my last truck but I'll make my own this time. The radiator can be left on place and you can weld tabs onto the radiator top bracket to lower the mounts. Loosen off the steering column to allow it to slide then re-tighten the bolts. you will also have to lift the bumpers front and back, easy enought to do but a little fiddly. I didn't initially pack the bottom of the boot floor but I did in the end as it carries some of the weight of the body shell. I love the body lift and would do it to most of my trucks, however it is a complicated job but if done bit my bit it's a very rewarding and worthwhile mod. Andi

Haha, if you can see, I have already removed a couple of wheel barrows of stones after changing an engine there!

Well I tried to find a full length roof rack and couldn't so I thought I'd make my own. I chopped a half rack into bits and made new rails and 4 new supports, along with a mount and protector bar for x4 wipacs that I've been wanting to do for a while. I also added a a mount for my cb arial along with 2 rear work lights and a plate for a rear number plate. I'm also trying to sort somewhere to put a couple of mounts for Hi-lift. I know it looks a little twisted in the middle on one side but when it's clamped to the roof it sits straight and I've just been jumping up and down on it so I reckon it's strong enough :twisted: I'll post some pics with it on tomorrow Andi

Hello there, just sticking my oar in here, but I have know lorry tyres to be re-banded which involves the removal of the centre etc. And a few steam traction engines do the same

Hello again MC'ers Right I'm trying to mate my 200tdi from my J plate disco to a gearbox in another J plate 200tdi disco. Are there any differences with any of the models at all? I know the J plate was a year that some parts need chassi numbers for etc, is the clutch one of them? I'm thinking that possibly a bush in the flywheel maybe different, the engine goes together and when you turn the crank on the bottom pully it tries to move the car when it's in gear. I feel that either the input shaft is longer or the recess in the flywheel isn't deep enough, or the housing on the engine or gearbox isn't 'long enough to close the gap? Anyone else experienced this? Regards Andi

Thanks for that - the engine is coming out to have new rings fitted!

Hello Jim, nope no oil lights. Could this be a head gasket problem??

Hello everyone, I've managed to get a hold of a new motor - 200 tdi disco - goldblock engine. It runs like a bag of spanners, but it you lift the revs to 3K + it settles down. Leave it at 3K for a little while and drop it back to idle and it's ok, then it eventually goes back to running like a dog - really rough. I have taken the metal plate off the fuel pump (where the start wheel lives) and found oil coming in through the pipe in the top plate. I also have steam/ smoke coming out of the oil cap and filler plug. The water in the coolant is clear of oil - ie a nice orange colour and the oil is black. Please please help everyone I really would like to save this engine! Regards

Haha, sorry about that, I'm based in Derbyshire near selston. Yup, all that welding and in the end 2 outriggers and the rear 'barrel' that spans the 2 chassis rails are FULL of perforation rust, leading the chassis to twist very badly. I decided it would be foolish to draf it out any longer and I took the car off the road on sunday.! Andi K

Thanks, the wheel trick is VERY useful

Hello again everyone! Well I collected my disco today ( a replacement for my sh*tty old wreck) I have shed loads of reciepts to go with for callipers and new gearbox etc, however it doesn't run, there's no starter and no power getting through. I have a feeling once I put a starter in this should cause the power to return, howere the engine is supposedly in fine fettle but running badly, it has a full service history and is VERY clean, along with a VERY clean cylinder head. The block is a golden yellow colour. Is this normal? My big question that I have is, are there any 200tdi enthusiasts anywhere near me that could pop over at the weekend and stick their head under the bonnet and give me a hand to find out what the heck is wrong with her. I have a decent engine but I don't want to have to swap it out if it's not needed. Is there anyway to check the timing on these engines, diesel is new black art form to me Well I should start my own investigations on thursday, so here's hoping! Andi

Hello one and all, firstly I'll list what I've done to the truck. Remade the sills with box section 60*120*1400*3 Remade the rear x-member with 60*120*?*3 Remade 8 out of 10 body mounts Remade both inner wings Remade both front floors Remade axel bracket on rear left link Lifted the body 40mm all round THIS IS WHERE IT STARTED TO GO WRONG The rear started to droop at the rear right, I then found a split in the rear chassis it doesn't look like this is responsible for the droop as it hasn't seperated, I will re weld this and strenghten it. I then fitted 265/75/16's and fitted a lift kit yesterday, pro comp +2's, bearmach BA2104's front and BA2102's at the rear (is this the right way round???, BM's website said so) It now looks quite low at the rear. Has anyone else has it this bad? Also has anyone else fitted BM blue springs and did you have the same problem? Oh and I made all new brake lines. (when will this all end!) Thanks Andi K

Excellent work chap, I'm in the process of making tree sliders, I have rock sliders that I made and I'm just 'upgrading' them to tree sliders. I look forward to tank gaurd info as that will be the next project

AMSKI, WE NEED SIZES!!!

Ah sorry, I have the good old trade account

the one and only place for adecent bargib is RS COMPONENTS, very reasonable on price I use them daily in my job as an engineering supplies company

I go out most days weekends with a group of friends, one has a standard P38 on 16's with general grabber tyres, it's a very capable vehicle and looks great covered in mud or climbing out of a ditch

Thats my supplier aswell M, he's just round the corner, very helpful guy and knows his stuff

Yes mate, my disco looked very solid until I started to really investigate, however, once you've dealt with the rust it should stay away for a long time! If you need a hand just shout, I can take pictures if I have the time (which isn't very often) or I if you pm me I'll send you my mobile number.

Hello there, the perfect size to just slip in is 60x120x1400 I used 3mm, I angled the ends slightly and welded plates to either end to seal the tube, Ome word of warning is be sure to expect alot more rust than you can see, I chopped out most of the passenger footwell and I still need to repair the drivers side. They have been a great improvement and I've jacked the car up a couple of time by them

Phil, try to buy a good secondhand Mig welder and gas bottle, it's what I did, and either do the night course (mine was £95 for 15 weeks once a week) or have a look on youtube, there are some good demo's, but it's true, practice is the way to go

Thanks chaps, I'm getting a set of +5 good ridges made up at work. Thanks again Andi K