ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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I have a switch for my TDS inside the cab that I haven't wired up yet but it would be very useful to bring into use.
I'm a complete winch novice as I've only ever had the TDS, are wiring diagrams largely the same between the brands or do I need something specific to the TDS?
After some googling I'm struggling to find a specific one that has a switch rather than the basic handheld setup.
I've seen a switch directly (no relay or fuses) driving the winch on a generic diagram so I decided to seek the collective expertise of the forum before something gets melted.
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Thanks, that's very useful feedback. I've put the drivetrain upgrades on hold until the car is running how I want and I have a garage again. Unless a product emerges that completely changes things, I'll be going with an ATB setup.
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35 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Yep, had left it on.
Auto drain.
I have nothing sensible to add (ever) but I enjoyed the irony of the base making it look like it has a flat tyre.
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It looks better than the old SVX models...
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I wasn't sure when you first showed them but the wheels really do suit it. I'm so impressed how 'right' it all looks, I thought it was going to end up as a very well built, hugely capable, very badly proportioned car but it's all spot-on. Watching it come together has the same mix of satisfcation/admiration of seeing a set of skills at work and the execution of an idea as Project Binky.
I am certain you'll find a way to weld a new canvas top.
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On 2/6/2023 at 12:19 PM, Bowie69 said:
It is blocked off yes, and I tested it for vacuum leaks when I saw it last year, only a very small one on the throttle shaft spindle seal, which may have been sorted now.
Unforuntately that seal is no longer obtainable, but it is tiny and there's no other leaks (as evidenced by normal running with the PWM removed) so I keep coming back it being the source.
Seems there were a lot more replies than I first read... I will need to catch up.
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I've been done in with COVID since Monday so I've only just waddled myself outside to look at this again.
The engine idles as normal as soon as I take the PWM out of the equation so I know it's something it is/isn't doing. The idle screw is set to 600 so I am back to where I started.
I've hooked it up to the battery and it does move freely with voltage applied so it's not stuck, which was my first thought.
I know it's been said on the previous page, but can I just check - is it meant to be open or closed when current is applied?
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I have requested my posts are deleted if that's the interpretation.
I have simply tried to offer an objective view about this vehicle and the result that has been achieved.
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58 minutes ago, steve b said:
Sounds just like a real Defender then...
Does it leak when it rains?
Steve
Yeah, but it costs you twice as much for the pleasure and they'll market it as a feature (and people will believe them).
I cannot imagine trying to convince myself to tolerate the ergonomic issues in a brand new, clean-sheet design.
The fact it's the RHD model that is worst effected says it all for me and speaks volumes about Radcliffe's approach. This was about getting a vehicle out and not wanting to lose face in front of Land Rover, not about making the best product possible. Pure billionaire ego at play.
That they couldn't be bothered (or just plain couldn't) engineer a solution to the exhaust manifold location doesn't bode well for the quality of engineering elsewhere.
I'm not even going to repeat the ridiculousness of those overhead switches and just how many Jonny had to press on his off-road sections. I'll take my one leaver, thanks.... Talk about a betrayal to the initial design brief, this thing's got more electronics and screens than a Currys.
Each to their own but this is such a compromised design. It is as Jonny says, a car motivated by spite.
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1 hour ago, jeremy996 said:
And Jonny Smith's Late Brake Show Review, now on YouTube:
Ah yes, finally a proper motoring journalist. I've been looking forward to this review of Sore Jim's Grenohdear.
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Yes it is, starts at 90 and will decrease quite rapdily to whatever I have set as the closed value once it sees it's above the target RPMs.
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The other option is a two-socket USB like Jame's above but cut into the headlight levelling switch hole so you retain the use of the cigarette lighter socket.
That's what I did, but I'm thinking of swapping the cigarette lighter over to USB too, they're pretty much useless these days.
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I think the PWM has to be stuck given the engine went back to normal revs when I blocked it off. The question is whether it's stuck due to malfunction or because it's not getting told to move.
Would having the live/earth the wrong way around cause it to do nothing?
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9 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
With the engine ticking over adjusting the plenum screw it won't work !
In simple terms with the PWM connected up as you try to adjust tick over............. the PWM undoes what you are doingAnd no, you don't disconnect the PWM plug - ITS POWERED CLOSED !!
What you need to do to adjust the plenum screw is when warm and ticking over
Mole grips - Clamp off the PWM pip so no air can go in or out
Make sure the Throttle has a bit of slack.......
THEN............ adjust the plenum to see if you can get tick over all lovely and cuddly set to what your heart desires
and report back
Nige
We posted at the same time...!
I can't get the idle to come down from 2000, seems like the PWM is stuck open to me. Is there any way to bench test it?
Should changes made in the PWM settings update to the unit itself without the engine running? I.e. on the ignition only. I am hearing/feeling nothing going on with it when changing values with the engine off.
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8 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
It's staring me in the face in that table. Closed DC is set to 50.
I just need to adjust that until it is actually closed, which should be lower but not zero or it starts to open again - or so the internets tell me.
That also means I can keep the idle screw closed and use this figure to always keep it open by that amount. There might not be any advantage to that but at least I'm only dealing with the variable of the PWM.
The internets also keep mentioning a diode is used in a lot of setups to avoid problems. I don't see anything about that in the instructions.
And of course it should be in closed loop, not just warm up. I need it to act all the time to smooth out the idle. 830rpm seems a little high for the default slow idle to me, though.
It all sounded so simple when I typed it out, but I failed to account for INFE*.
I tried the settings in my post above and it's going straight to 2,000 rpm, sometimes more. Nothing changed in the PWM settings changes the idle.
I blocked the pipes off as I thought I'd introduced a huge vacuum leak and but it returns to slow lumpy idle normality, so the issue is in the PWM side. I set the idle screw to 600-ish while I had it isolated.
*(It. Never. F##king. Ends.)
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It's staring me in the face in that table. Closed DC is set to 50.
I just need to adjust that until it is actually closed, which should be lower but not zero or it starts to open again - or so the internets tell me.
That also means I can keep the idle screw closed and use this figure to always keep it open by that amount. There might not be any advantage to that but at least I'm only dealing with the variable of the PWM.
The internets also keep mentioning a diode is used in a lot of setups to avoid problems. I don't see anything about that in the instructions.
And of course it should be in closed loop, not just warm up. I need it to act all the time to smooth out the idle. 830rpm seems a little high for the default slow idle to me, though.
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The finish on those sliders is nicer than the paint on my car......
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Damn. I wish I'd done that before drilling holes in everything.
At the moment I've got the base idle screw all the way in so the PWM is doing all the work. I'm just confused why it would stay open when it's clearly over the target RPM (which I've now found).
Further question, should it operae in closed loop only or warmup only?
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Excellent pictures.
Are those DSC/ESC buttons in the shapes that look like cup holders?
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Nige, that helped immensely. I can now see what's going on.
It's starting at 90% and going down to 50% where it stops. It's idling at 1800rpm though, which is not good.
I assume there's a target idle speed I'm meant to tell it.
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I have just fitted a PWM exactly as per the instructions in the MS Manual but I'm getting no indication it's actually done anything. It seems just as unwilling to start without throttle applied.
Is there a more recent version of Nige's manual than Sept 2014 which would have fuller/different instructions?
I have a switched ignition feed going to the PWM and an 'earth' (I guess) going back to the appropriate wire on the ECU. Is it possible to have the wires on the PWM back to front or does it not matter? I have the ECU wire on the side the 90 degree pipe comes off and the live on the side the straight pipe is on.
Should the idle screw be wound fully in or otherwise changed to let the PWM take full control?
Does Tuner Studio show anything to indicate it's working?
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I can't speak for the admin team but one land rover forum I was on years ago died when it tried to split everything out.
While it can give the appearance of more resources and a wider range of technical discussion, all it ends up doing is diluting what discussion was already happening anyway. It actually makes the forum look dead when you see there are only five topics under one heading, for example.
Besides, most of the time when a forum has been running as long as this, you end up using the search function to find those discussions anyway. Scrolling hundreds of subsections just makes it unwieldy.
Perhaps the best way is to continue to put the thread under the one for the vehicle that is most appropriate and use the tag functionality to label it as transmission related.
It turns out there's no substitute to active members having lively debates.... perhaps like this one?
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I don't hate that. Any more photos?
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The first thing that came to mind seeing that thumbnail...
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Goodwinch TDS Internal Switch Wiring
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Yeah it's mom-off-mom. Your explanation is so much simpler than what I was looking at, so that's great. I'll definitely run the fuse, that was the most obvious thing missing. What kind of amperage are we talking about? I take it quite low as the solenoid is doing all the work.
Good points, I was running a switch before the rebuild but I didn't install it so I was never really aware of this as an issue. So I get this clear, would that mean having the hand held switch and the cab switch operate at the exact same time? If so, I think it would be incredibly rare for me to operate with the handheld inside the vehicle.
Inadvertant operation of the switch is far more likely as I've moved it to the redundant panel by the right knee (on RHD models). I have a spare on/off switch slot which would be perfect for Bowie's solution but it's right next to the momentary switch and seems to be the one that gets knee-operated most commonly (it doesn't do anything at present). I could put an aircraft flip-cover switch in, but I'm not about that Top Gun Maverick life.
I'll just have to be more disciplined in the use of the main isolator switch; if the winch is not being used, it is isolated.