ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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21 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Is hard nylon pipe suitable? Old school series style.
I had that when I was running it as a 3.5 but I'm even more nervous that will melt than I am with the other options. The nylon can just get old and snap even without the E10 influence from what I've read.
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Thanks All, very helpful suggestions as always.
An option that phone calls to different places has suggested is cutting my existing pipe and putting a flare on the end to connect a flexi hose. That would eliminate a lot of the run along the chassis rail which I can't see/check if it was flexi.
PTFE seems to be the gold standard, so that's a decision made. I only need short joints of it to connect the hard lines.
14 hours ago, dave88sw said:I ordered some e10 compatible stuff from merlin motorsport, i believe it was cohline or something similar. Its been on 2 years and still looks like new and is just as supple as the day i fitted it. It was really quite expensive compared to the long rolls of cheap stuff you can get on ebay but i didnt want to be replacing it after a relatively short period.
I thought I had fitted their expensive Cohline stuff throughout, but on closer inspection it's only from the filter to the fuel rail and the return to the metal pipe just under the bulkhead (because it was meant to be better with heat and passes over the exhaust). That stuff does not seem to have been effected. I'll replace it anyway because I want to eliminate the join for the small filter on the return line.
19 hours ago, Bowie69 said:I suppose one of the most important bits is to make sure any rubber is easily serviceable, and very visible -this is where the 4ft of line on mine if OK IMHO, you can see the whole length of it, and inspect it easily. I would love to get a fitting on the V8 fuel rail and I would replace it with AN line as the other end is the mini fuel cell under the bonnet.
I looked at going to AN lines but I can't work out from my short experience with it, how to connect it to the pump and fuel rail ends. It would make the filter fitting beautifully easy though.
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Photographic evidence that nothing you do to a Frontera can make them any good off road.
Why do people think adding roll cages or lights will enhance off road performance? Some Land Rover drivers have always been bad for this, but it's a new favourite of the 'sports' pickups around here. They must be very disappointed if they ever went off tarmac.
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This goes far beyond just my car, Defenders or even Land Rovers so thought the Int. section would be the best place.
After a saga I won't go into here, I need to replace every rubber fuel line in the car (petrol V8). Rightly or wrongly, I took out the metal pipe from the tank to the filter and replaced everything with a name brand fuel hose meeting DIN 73379 (which is meant to be safe for E10). In the 2 years since I did this, most of which it lived in my garage, it has perished to the point of spraying high pressure fuel everywhere. At the MOT test station.
I originally thought the pipe had perished from the outside-in as the crazing is all along the pipe but only one part has so far leaked. A bit of reading suggests that this is how E10 rots out fuel lines - the vapour seeps out and dries out the pipe, which cracks and then splits when it can no longer flex. Either way, the pipe I bought specifically to handle E10 is now perished and unable to do its job. According to the internet, SAE J30R9 is required for E10 but it seems like DIN 73379 includes that standard. No one I've spoken to in the trade is willing to recommend a rubber hose and I'm told this is becomming more common as an issue.
So the point of this post. I'd like:
1. Views on the use of (correctly rated) rubber fuel hose for the entirety of the system
a. Recommendations for high quality, E10-appropriate fuel hose
2. Views on having the original metal pipes re-made (they are kinked, unfortunately) and then having only the joints between the pump, filter and fuel rail as rubber.
a. Recommendations for where to get metal fuel pipes made up using the original as a rough template.
Here is a rough diagram of my system as I always find it easier to explain in crayon.
Option A has 10 joins, B has 6. I prefer the idea of fewer joins but in this case, it's not a join that leaked...
Also, even on the metal pipes I will have to use rubber as unions between pumps, filters etc., so does that really give any benefit?
Any thoughts/comments appreciated as I have an undrivable car.
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He's obviously scheduling in the mandatory forum updates with the missing hours.
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10 hours ago, elbekko said:
I have better things to spend money on.
Like what!? That thing is the best use of my money I can think of right now.
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Truly ****ty, I hope you find them. At least a red hook is distinctive enough to catch your eye if they're that stupid.
The freespool on my TDS gave up at some point while in storage and I've not spent any time working out what's going on. Time to spool out rope isn't really an issue outside of challenge events, felled trees don't tend to walk off if you take too long.
I might be further disincentivised to free it off now I've read this.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYOUd4M-RwA
Because privacy is dead, just had this recommended to me when opening a new browser tab. No idea if it's a reputable channel, etc.
edit: doesn't show as a thumbnail for some reason. It's a review of this model.
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
But it was mostly full of bargain basement scrap components.
Those packages only ever seem to benefit the supplier in putting together the cheapest components possible and charging a premium for nothing but convenience.
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Hate to be spotterish but wondering if anyone else has noticed a lot of Defenders in working configurations? I've been seeing a 50/50 ratio of the all black tarmac queens and what are clearly working vehicles.
Yesterday a 90 with a colour scheme straight out of the vintage pre-Defender 90 catalogue - powder blue base with white roof and 'van' sides and sign written for a business. Today a black 110 with steel wheels and a hi-vis stripe down the side. Even had those moulded-in roof lights on the front, which I thought I would hate, but not in person. It was towing what looked like a remote controlled digger of some sort, very bizarrre. If it was green I'd have thought it was for IED purposes... The weirdest part was that it was towing at 60. I didn't think anyone knew how to do that these days.
It's just weird to see so many that have been bought to do a job after the pricing suggested this would be anything but. Either fleet managers are getting sloppy or there's more to the maths than it might seem.
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Why do you need a higher pressure oil pump?
For the higher pressure oil of course! 😄
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On 1/22/2023 at 9:00 AM, ThreePointFive said:
JCB think its worth messing with.
Sorry if this is taking the threat OT, but it seems JCB really think it's worth messing with.
Shame it won't be the answer to our engine conversion dreams but it's got to be better than some of the electrification options. There are clearly some challenges to be addressed that are not fully detailed in this video, particularly the upstream infrastructure but with enough investment in the research, it seems like that's a matter of time. There are so many advantages to this over electric, not just in the end product, I really hope it can be successful.
Lord Bamford seems to have set a strong direction for his company, to the point of putting its entire future on hydrogen. I don't think he seems like the kind of man that would do that if the problems were not solvable.
Interesting, without mentioning it, he clearly understands what is needed for Britain to have an enduring, leading role in engineering the modern world.
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My 4.0 was from an auto and it made no difference other than the flywheel change.
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
You may have noticed I've slowed down a wee bit, change of priority at the moment due to this little guy joining the family
regards Stephen
Anything to avoid that wiring!
He is very cute.
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9 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
Resurrecting this old thread. My £10 Halfords battery charger is no longer living up to its name and needs replacement.
Funnily enough, the same happened to mine mentioned in my post above. It died, but it made sure to take a battery with it on the way out.
I now have a C-Tek MSX10. Seems to work.
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2 hours ago, Anderzander said:
Like an average episode of Watch Wes Work.
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15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
For some reason I absolutely must own this thing:
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/van-details/202302013843240
Call me a fool if you like
I have never witnessed a more fiscally-sound decision and fully support this.
Set up a go fund me, I'll contribute.
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Just reading through this. A word of caution on the brake cleaner, some brands/formulas will permanently stain any black plastics you spray it on with a white residue. It could make an engine cover, fuse boxes, etc look like carp on seconds and no amount of back to black will make it right.
I ruined a shock tower cover on mine when I forgot this point, despite knowing it beforehand.
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I can't speak for the motivations of others but my rationale for a centre ATB was:
1. It would engage automatically if I had missed the cues it was time to use the lever - more applicable to an on-road situation where one might not expect to need it and the reaction time would be minimal
2. I heard they remove slop in the drivetrain and I'm all for improving the driving experience
3. I was going to get it refurbished anyway and the cost was a minimal increase for the potential benefits
If that makes me a fool then so be it.
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That's just crazy though. I can't remember if you had any plans to dyno it, but I think you should!
My transfer box ATB has made little to no difference to the way the car "feels", if that's any kind of a measurement. That's not to say I regret it, I'm just not aware of it.
I think with axle ATBs, the difference has to be more tangible.
...random thought, but does having ATBs front and rear make the centre ATB pointless?
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7 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
I assume it's a mom-off-mom switch? TDS solenoids are the same as albright and just about any other all-in-one winch solenoid.
In which case then you just need a three-core harness going to your winch, and piggybacking off the solenoid terminals. To winch one way, connect the middle to one of the outer terminals, to winch the other, connect middle to the other outer terminal. You can test by just shorting between the terminals with whatever you have to hand.
Your switch just needs to facilitate this, centre terminal goes to the 'in' on your switch, and the two other go to the MOM on terminals.
Run an inline fuse in the harness where it comes off the solenoid, or you have an unfused feed going into the cabin....
Yeah it's mom-off-mom. Your explanation is so much simpler than what I was looking at, so that's great. I'll definitely run the fuse, that was the most obvious thing missing. What kind of amperage are we talking about? I take it quite low as the solenoid is doing all the work.
7 hours ago, Arjan said:Handheld is in the end also just a switch so wiring is not too difficult.
However, what you need to consider is priority.. Master - slave
If you have 2 controls for the winch this could potentially lead to both being operated at the same time.
Otherwise you could end up with a serious problem.
Good points, I was running a switch before the rebuild but I didn't install it so I was never really aware of this as an issue. So I get this clear, would that mean having the hand held switch and the cab switch operate at the exact same time? If so, I think it would be incredibly rare for me to operate with the handheld inside the vehicle.
Inadvertant operation of the switch is far more likely as I've moved it to the redundant panel by the right knee (on RHD models). I have a spare on/off switch slot which would be perfect for Bowie's solution but it's right next to the momentary switch and seems to be the one that gets knee-operated most commonly (it doesn't do anything at present). I could put an aircraft flip-cover switch in, but I'm not about that Top Gun Maverick life.
I'll just have to be more disciplined in the use of the main isolator switch; if the winch is not being used, it is isolated.
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I have a switch for my TDS inside the cab that I haven't wired up yet but it would be very useful to bring into use.
I'm a complete winch novice as I've only ever had the TDS, are wiring diagrams largely the same between the brands or do I need something specific to the TDS?
After some googling I'm struggling to find a specific one that has a switch rather than the basic handheld setup.
I've seen a switch directly (no relay or fuses) driving the winch on a generic diagram so I decided to seek the collective expertise of the forum before something gets melted.
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Thanks, that's very useful feedback. I've put the drivetrain upgrades on hold until the car is running how I want and I have a garage again. Unless a product emerges that completely changes things, I'll be going with an ATB setup.
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35 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Yep, had left it on.
Auto drain.
I have nothing sensible to add (ever) but I enjoyed the irony of the base making it look like it has a flat tyre.
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Let's cut to the chase shall we?
in The New Ineos Grenadier
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Looks great Jeremy, I hope you're pleased to see the finished article.
Fair play for them putting the 'Built in Hambach' and Tricolore on it. Actually gains back some honesty points for me.