ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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Brilliant, awful or a ringer. You decide for yourselves.
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59 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Chinook attatchment points........
There's no way a Chinook is lifting this thing off the ground.
It looks brilliant though.
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On 1/25/2023 at 2:18 PM, Stellaghost said:
Earth straps fitted 6 in total
Should be enough I think
Regards Stephen
Nice, I've never seen earth straps that can double as recovery points before.
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27 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
if you just need a little fart of air to operate a locker once in a while.
I see that this would be cheap but it would be also be uncomfortable. For everyone.
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22 minutes ago, Escape said:
😉ut if finances (and time) allow, I would renew the swivels and upgrade the shafts etc at the same time. Just because you'll be taking things apart to fit the diff anyway.
I realised this while writing it out, and factored-in that the swivels take priority over any 'upgrades', but at the moment I don't want to acknowledge the amount of work (or cost) I'm in for. I hate cars.
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I did think about Nige but my needs are a little less.... Heavy Duty...
😆
I probably (deliberately) overstated my requirements at the start, but to be clear, this is not a challenge truck but nor is it a road car. It's a difficult middle ground.
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I thought this thread would be one of those "what tyres should I fit?" type questions but it seems like it held a bit more interest, glad I asked now...!
Ashcrofts will sell a complete diff with an ATB for £1030 or you can get one with an Ashlocker for £1200, so it's a more difficult decision financially than I stated earlier (not sure where I got my numbers from, before).
I still like the idea of the control of the full locker but the need for additional equipment around it (and the cost of that) balances against the ease of the ATB. I just don't know if I love the inability to tell when it's working...
All of that said, I have an ATB in my LT230 so it would at least match...
I've always thought the point in the half shafts was to act as a fuse to prevent more serious damage 'upstream' (a snapped crankshaft apparently being the pinnacle), or at least the drive flanges.
My plan will be to get complete diffs with ATBs so I can eliminate any tiredness in my existing diffs which also has the benefit of getting new seals and bearings that I can't/don't want to learn how to replace. Then I can do the shafts, CVs, etc. at a later date, probably throwing in a swivel renewal at the same time.
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Had my 90 up on a 2 poster just before Christmas and they are awkward. The chassis sweep upwards just after the rear radius arms gives little flat area and it would be easy to have it slip. I did not like being under it.
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
I cut some to replicate defender arches on my tomcat.
Personally I don't like them sticking out horizontal hence why I shaped mine.
Mike
I know you didn't post it to get comments and I know thats not what the threat is about... but dang I like the look of this thing.
Stephen, I like the look without the cut angle. What you've done on that panel is disgustingly neat.
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JCB think its worth messing with.
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9 hours ago, steve b said:
The important question for me though is can we have some pic's of the LS engined lawnmower?
By the sounds of it, one of these:
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6 hours ago, elbekko said:
Not sure if it needs a whole lot. A small shield would probably do.
You know we're now going to see a 2 inch thick plate of Rolled Homogenous Armor perfectly formed into the shape of a reservior shield.
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Looks a lot nicer in profile as a pick up. The fussiness around the rear quarter is neatened up substantially. I hope they'll do a proper canvas top.
Are there any plans for a single cab version or is that too niche/too L200-market for them to compete?
Before I decide if they've finally made one I like, I'm going to need to see how it fairs in the industry standard 'an HGV fell over on it' crash test. I hear Defender2s excel in this regard.
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I don't think the occupants care who's favour it was in.
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I don't think I've ever seen one where the truck came off worse....
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2 hours ago, Snagger said:
TDCI props were perhaps different in length to earlier Defender, but similar construction.
I read about this on Gwynne Lewis's site while looking at refurb Vs upgrade. It sounds like they really had to work to fit the TDCI in there and it resulted in some sub optimal compromises having to be made.
Though I look forward to finding out that's wrong, as with everything else I've said on this thread. 😬
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7 hours ago, western said:
On a 90/110/Defender the front prop ujs are out of line aka out of phase
Note in workshop manual states - - universal joints in front propare by design NOT assembled inline with each other, the alignment marks on sliding joint & prop shaft must be inline when assembling.
Rear props are ujs are inline aka in phase
Just when I think I know something, it gets corrected on here! I read they should never be in phase as it creates problems, so both of mine were out of phase. Ah well.
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I didn't know until I looked into having these balanced that the point of a double carden prop is vibration elimination as much as increased articulation - which is why they were fitted to Discos (not so someone could come along and put a lift kit on it, who knew). I'm not going with double cardens of course, but it was interesting to read that they had to resort to that. It implies it's impossible to fully remove on a single jointed prop.
Phasing is one thing I believe I got wrong, and why I'm getting the (mild) vibration. I'm hopeful they will send back my props assembled or at least with marks to align them. I saw a video of how a single UJ cannot keep a constant velocity through its rotation on anything other than straight angles and the need for a UJ at both ends but offset by 90 degrees is to balance this out. Easy to get wrong and I wonder how many have been assembled in home garages with the joints neatly aligned.
I don't know why this one UJ is at fault, doing them with a vice, a socket and a hammer in my kitchen probably wasn't the best environment but I am surprised that 1000 miles has done for it, especially when greased twice in that period. I am going to look again at the heat shielding around the exhaust near the front though as I know others have had their grease cooked.
I am sure that the prop is not the (main) cause of the jolting that started this, though.
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Bad news - there won't be a September one, they're cutting down this year to reduce damage
Damn. I was thinking about booking just to see this thing built and driving about. Is the Summer one open to all?
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To update this, I took onboard everything I could from the advice given and I have found some things and have some work to do.
I found that the front rear UJ had a bit of play in it where it would move 1mm by hand when bolted up. Also my handbrake has lost effectiveness and isn't holding the car on big slopes. I'm blaming water ingress coupled with the freezing weather when parked.
I have sent off my props to D&F Props as recommended elsewhere, looking forward to getting those back and hopefully addressing a mild 50mph vibration I was feeling but ignoring. I'm going to take a look at the handbrake mechanism while the props are off and make sure it's all seated properly. That's two areas of potential cause.
While this is all apart, I'll replace all my engine mounts with the Glencoyne ones. At least they are a known-good and rules them out from future diagnosis.
As much as it pains me, I have bought a PWM idle valve kit from Nige. Having the car almost stall when just going from lock to lock was the last straw and it's a safety consideration as much as anything due to how unpredictably it drives while cold.
Having then sorted as much mechanical causes, I'll ask for a trip to @Bowie69 's House of Flying Laptops and a tuning session (finally) to try to get rid of the last symptoms.
I'll post results, it may help someone some day. Or provide the next owner with insight into why the car was so cheap.
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9 hours ago, muddy said:
Ashlockers, Ashcroft shafts and CV's, job done.
if you are having the diffs built and can easily afford the peg them then why not but I doubt you will see the benefit unless you radically change the outlined use.
With the same front axle setup I broke 8 or 9 drivers CVs on a standard front diff (3 in one day) at that point I fitted an open 4 pin ( pre ash lockers days so the price was considerably less) and Ashcroft shafts and cvs with HD drive flanges, touch wood nothing more ever broke and it wasn't for a lack of trying.
I am minded to heed your advice. I vividly remember when I put this photo up in 2009, you commented "BANG, and the diff is gone"...
..and this happened the next time out (on a much less severe, gentle piece of ground being driven more normally).
That was a factory 2-pin front diff. The rear was fine, I'm told it would have been a 4 pin in the V8 CSW. It was my first and last trip into the 'drive it like you stole it' camp of off roading.
As a first shopping list, yours works for me. It will have other benefits in reducing what I think is a ton of play in the transmission (see other threads recently...) with new parts. While I wanted to select something based on what was right for me, rather than what was cheap, I didn't realise that ATBs were so much less than manual lockers. I can get a full set of Ashcroft ATBs and shafts for the same as just a pair of Ashlockers. Unsure if pegging (now I sound like Mo) is necessary or not, but there's almost no point not to if they're out of the car anyway.
I was always set on manual lockers as I wanted the choice/control - and, frankly, to see how much further I got for my money - but I'm starting to think ATBs might be the better way to go. I just hope they do deliver off road or it's saving money for no benefit.
4 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:I wouldn’t describe the later 24-spline components as a ‘time bomb’. Under normal use they will be absolutely fine. I swapped the internals of my 90’s front axle from the earlier stronger CVs to the later ones for a few reasons and yes in theory I have lost some strength but I use the car for green laning and trips abroad, where your right foot is the biggest factor in whether you will break something.
Upgraded parts will undeniably be better, just whether they’re worth it from a financial point of view will be down to your use case(s).
Breaking traction on snow/ice at low speed is a real risk, no idea about it being caused by axle lockers etc. as I’ve never had (or needed) any but I did once change down a gear at low speed on an icy road and the wheels broke traction and the car spun 180° as a result
You describe what I think my driving style is with the last paragraph, and I agree that's the realy control over breakages. This is all really insurance about getting somewhere I shouldn't and having the ability to get back out of it without then causing mechanical damage. I know the addage is that lockers get you further into the woods to get stuck, but common sense still plays a factor.
As to whether it's financially worth it or not, that boat sailed a while ago on my car.
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13 hours ago, Snagger said:
The original post gave useful information, but I think it was too vague and generalised to give a specific answer.
Indeed, I didn't want to lead the witness!
The other use case for the car is poor weather (a reason I went with these tyres), I admit I had no idea that full lockers were a bad idea, and I am not new to driving in terrible conditions! I assume that's because you'll get sudden grip on one side and get flung off towards the side with least grip without warning? I was almost set on manual lockers as I wanted the control/choice and didn't want any funny business with turning circles on a locker deciding for me. I need to do more research into ATBs it seems. Not all of my offroading is recreational so it needs to work when called upon, hence the capability requirement.
On 1/13/2023 at 8:23 PM, Gazzar said:Flanges, CVs, shafts, front ATB, rear ATB, pegged diff casings.
So in short, everything then!
There's so much in the above posts that I need to understand and consider, I am very grateful that anyone bothers to put their thoughts and experience down as it's really valuable. I didn't know I had time-bomb components, I went to Disco axles because they're 24 spline and rear discs, so finding this out was a surprise but necessary.
I wanted to avoid mods to the axle itself (upgrading/beefing up internals aside) so I get a bit twitchy when it comes to this stub axle bit. Explaining the mods in the way an insurance broker call centre agent gets tricky. As long as it is straightforward to do and can be reversed... I accept it's a key to getting around that specific weakness though.
I am surprised I didn't break something last time out, one of the downsides of ATs is using revs to deal with obstacles. My normal off roading 'style' is to always try to walk the car over anything, I don't like ragging it with the wheels spinning - that's one of the reasons I'll be changing the larger mud tyres, the other reason being increased ground clearance. It's not a challenge truck and I don't enjoy driving it like that. Last time I did, bits of diff made a surprise appearance out the bottom of the casing. On that day, I learnt the joys of mechanical sympathy.
This sounds like a project to do over time, so unless there are pressing reasons to do it a different way, I'll do the diffs (manual or ATB) and shafts, then work my way to the outer components.
Oh, and I've never heard of anyone snapping a crank! I would have thought there's some much more likely components in the gearbox long before you get into that...!
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Christ that was long and badly written.
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Mog 404 axles
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I would definitely not go for chequer plate when it looks so good as-is.