V8david

Hi all. Having put the old girl (3.5 V8) back together with new cam and timing gear etc. etc. etc. the radiator has now decided to weep from the bottom. F*"@ing thing. Is this normal after disturbing it? It looked absolutely fine when it was out. I suppose I need a new one?! I thought I'd given the old girl a real treat with all the new parts and careful cleaning... now this! I do love this car but it does persist in repeatedly kicking me in the b@ll@ocks Are those coolant pipe clamps any good for clamping the, er, coolant pipes if and when I do decide to do it? The ones that pinch the pipe so you can disconnect without draining all the coolant. I REALLY don't want to be draining all the coolant again. Though I guess most of it is in the rad anyway. Cheers David

Does anyone know of anywhere that sells the rubber boot things that sit around the base of the wiper arms? Cheers.

Cheers guys. I'll get the bits ordered and get them sorted. Only problem is if I order all the UJ's and it turns out to be knackered sliding joints beyond repair, I'll then want new/repaired propshafts! May save the bother and just get a couple of new shafts. I reckon if I'd been spinning around under a car since 1989 I'd be pretty knackered to

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll drop and check as soon as I can. No difflock on my old girl though. If the sliding joints aren't sliding anymore does that mean new props?

No, not lifted, but definitely sounds like props. Cheers for the 2nd opinion bishbosh.

Hello all. When I drive on the motorway, or at the, er, national speed limit on normal roads, i.e 60-70 MPH, when I ease off the gas and allow the vehicle to slow, I'm getting a vibration from underneath. If I put my foot back on the accelerator it stops again. Now I'm thinking it's propshaft UJs? Any thoughts? I'm replacing them soon and I was wondering if the vibration could be from the prop shafts being out of balance? Again, any thoughts? Should I get the shafts checked and balanced while they're off anyway? Where or who can check and balance them? Need someone in the Hereford area. Does Disco Al know anyone? RRC 1989 3.5 Efi. Cheers David

Nice one DC! Pleased for you mate. You must feel like you've come to the end of a VERY long journey! I know what you mean about 'persuading' the Y piece on! I 'persuaded' mine with a big lump of wood and a bloody big hammer! Mine blows ever so slightly at the Y piece when cold but disappears when hot so I'm happy enough. Well done getting the gaskets, a 'fitting' kit would suggest gaskets are included surely?!? Mine did. Good luck with it, they do sound wicked Cheers David

Reckon not mate. Looks like it'd fit a P38.

What noggy said really mate. Give it a smack while it's trying to work. Or carefully take it apart...

Yeah, best to have a double check of everything! I know what you're going through and it drove me insane for AGES! I swear that even when it is right you can still hear blowing noises in your head! Good luck with it because when it is right it sounds awesome and is well worth the mental torture!

Spot on mate. Check the joints where the manifolds go into the Y pipe underneath as well, make sure they're right in.

Yeah that's right. As long as the bolt holes line up, and the port holes, they're ok.

JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESUS. Don't start a 'what's the best range rover' poll! Someone'll be along soon to give you a bollocking!!... ... ... ........ ... come on DS.........

No one makes the fitted door seals anymore. I ordered some from Rimmers but they said they only come in black and you have to trim them in yourself. But like Geoff said, you will NEVER stop the leaks. I gave up on that idea a long time ago

When I got mine it turned out one of the chimps on the assembly line had actually welded a bracket on upside down! No chance of ever getting a seal. I took it off and put in back on about 5 times before I realised. Problem was they are such a pain in the arse to get in and out it took me a year to finally REALLY loose my rag and yank the manifold out to discover the problem! Fair play to MM4X4 they sent another one but it didn't make up for all the blood, sweat and blue air! So like Steve said check your gaskets are the right way round and also check all the brackets are the right way round. I also highly recommend investing in a manifold fitting kit from Rimmers. Makes the job SO much easier, saves repeatedly screwing in and out of the cylinder heads to. Good luck mate.

Mine has bulbs... If they're ok and fuses are ok then i guess it's just check the wiring.

Email Rimmers, they'll know, and they're helpful like that. They still sell those awful tasteless horrible kits! Or buy a GTI badge and some LEDs and stick with it...

Thanks Ian, much appreciated. They're the early type. I've got 8 new ones as the old ones are either cracked or broken, or both. When you say they "end up" sitting just below the spring cap, do you mean that anywhere on the valve stem below that is acceptable? As eventually they will all end up moving up anyway. I've read in my V8 book about the later hooded type, very interesting read. The whole book that is, not just about the valve seals...

Really sorry about this everyone, stupid question time... I took my cylinder heads to be skimmed, while they had them they took the valves out and seated them. Beautiful job, but.. I've got all the valves in two boxes, numbered for the right places/head etc. Now cos I didn't take them apart I don't know where the inlet valve stem oil seals go (told you it was a stupid question). Where do they fit in relation to the collets for example? Basically where the bloody hell on the valve stem do they fit?! Worded instruction would be nice but a picture would be excellent! I've checked the LR parts pictures and I can see the buggers but not where they go! Cheers

Cheers guys, much appreciated. Les that looks awesome mate, A1 job. If mine ends up looking half as good I'll be pleased!

Need a decent method of cleaning things like the timing cover, rocker covers etc, and getting stubborn old gaskets off. Is there anything I can dip them in over night and come back in the morning to find them looking brand new? O, and can you recommend a supplier for a new distributor cap/rotor arm? I have a 3.5 Efi. Cheers, think that's all for now!

Cheers all. Definitely ATF and I can definitely live with it! Level hasn't moved in the gearbox which is why I was wondering if it could have overflowed into the bell housing and just stayed there. I'll empty it and see if it starts to fill up again.

Cheers for that teslo, I'll give it a go.

Hi all, just a quick question, got a 3.5 Efi with ZF auto box. I undid the little inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing for reasons I wont go into! Anyway, there was clean autobox fluid in there. Soooooo, my question is: I overfilled the autobox when I changed the oil a while back, ran the engine, realised it was too full and emptied some out til it was right on the dipstick. That level has been fine ever since and I have no problems with the function of the box. I'm basically wondering if when it was over full it could have dumped oil in the bell housing? If so do I take that plate off and drain the bell housing, leave it for a bit and then see if it starts to fill again? Sorry if this seems like a stupid question (to some people)