V8david

Got my new propshafts and had a look under the truck with a view to starting at some point soon! Anyway, according to haynes, the splined sleeve on the front shaft must face the front axle, and the rear one must be adjacent to the transmission brake. The rear one is as it says but the front one is the other way round, with the splined shaft adjacent to the transfer box. So which way round is right? Does haynes refer to the pre-borg warner transfer box? It's a 1989 3.5 Efi with the BW box. Cheers David.

I've got a data sheet at home, all the figures etc. Pretty sure it's either 105 or 115 mph. I think the source of the data is printed on the sheet. Hopefully then you could find that source and go from there. Unfortunately I'm not back home now until saturday if you can wait that long? My data sheet is for the 3.5 Efi. Is that what you're after?

Cheers Gavo, that's good to know mate. My next question was going to be 'how would I remove the core plug?'! Am I likely to loose lots of coolant in the process? It's just behind the starter so I'll be able to get by just popping that off. Yes mate, I do have plenty of bits of wood! And plenty of hammers to! Speak to you soon mate, take care.

How much pressure should there be in the cooling system at normal operating temperature? (3.5 V8 Efi). I'm not after an accurate measurement with a gadget, just the squeezability of the hoses, like the rad top hose. It gets firmer but not hard, can still be sqeezed pretty easily. I'm assuming and hoping this is ok? Please excuse my stupid questions but since I put the engine back together I'm REALLY paranoid I've done something wrong! Got a slight leak at the LPG vapouriser thingy and just replaced the rad as that was leaking along the bottom. Got that pink 5 year antifreeze/inhibitor stuff in there now which seems to highlight leaks more as it's such a bright colour. Everything's clean now as well so I can see where things are coming from! Also along the cooling system route, one of the core plugs in the block is leaking slightly, the one pretty much behind/above the starter motor. Can these be replaced with the engine in the car? I want to have it done rather than do it myself as I quite frankly cannot be arsed.

I really don't know much about it. I've heard about it. Have a look here camshaft. I'm sure someone who knows more about it will be along soon! But with a budget of up to £1000 you should be able to do something good!

If you're venturing into the engine you could look at performance camshafts.

Cheers guys. Thanks vougese39, I'll pop the new arm back off and oil drip a bit of oil down the shaft. Haven't disturbed anything inside, I was too scared to pull too hard! After all the attemted pulling my fingers really hurt and I REALLY enjoyed smashing up the old rotor arm! Definite improvement in performance. Highly recommend a new dissy cap and rotor arm!

Right, cheers for that guys. All done now. As suggested the old rotor had to be destroyed in order to remove it and yes, the shaft was rusty! All clean and oiled now. Problem though... During the incredibly satisfying destruction of the rotor arm, I managed to take a large chunk out of the clear plastic cover held on with the three screws (it's really brittle!). So question is does it matter? And if so has anyone got a spare one they can sell me?

So did I. With alot of swearing. Try to resist the temptation to throw the tailgate across the drive and stamp on it! Take it out on the old one instead! Anyway, above method works fine.

Hi all. New rotor arm arrived today... genuine... lovely. (3.5 V8 Efi). So I think easy job (for once!), crack on, get it done before dinner. How the f**k do you get it off?!? I've pulled and pulled and pulled. Is there a knack? I don't want to do any damage obviously. I assumed you just pull it and push on the new one. Am I being stupid? Yes, I expect so.

I'm really looking forward to voting the f**kers out. Though in favour of who I do not know. Tis dark times.

Cheers Highway_Star. Sorry to hear about your dad mate. Mine died last year. That's how I ended up on the forums I guess. When the first person you call with a problem is gone you need to find answers elsewhere... Anyway. Car's good. Cheers.

Thanks to whoever corrected the sub topic on this! Anyway... Sorted! Advanced the timing and now no wobble. Not only that I've got more power. Was obviously in the wrong place. According to the dial on my timing light it's settled for 20 degrees BTDC. That is of course in relation to the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley... I advanced it until I went too far, then back a bit until she was/is happy. I may well be one tooth out on the distributor but hey. It works. May not be either... who knows... or cares! Got enough things to fix that are broken without fixing things that aren't!!! Now that's sorted I'm going to treat the old girl to a nice new rotor arm & distributor cap... Genuine of course... Cheers for the help and advice guys David

Why thank you, it is a particularly fine example of the Range Rover Classic...

Well David, good question... They're actually wiper 'bushes', rather than 'boots'. Part no. 607107 Try bushes Nice car by the way, best I've seen in ages...

I fitted new timing chain and gears with the camshaft, spent ages lining them up! The engine's only done 52k miles so I assume the distributor should be ok still... I'll have another fiddle tomorrow. Cheers guys.

It's a flapper. It was only happy at around 20-25 degrees BTDC when I first put it back together. I moved it round one tooth and was then able to set it to 8 degrees. It's bloody close so I think I'll try the 12 degree theory tomorrow if I have time. I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers for the thoughts.

Cheers Bowie69. When I was fiddling with the timing, before I obtained the light, the more I advanced it the better it got. The engine ran faster and faster. It was fun but I had to abort as I didn't have a damn clue what I was doing I then sensibly bought the light and set it to 8 degrees BTDC... I will try the 12 degrees tomorrow though as I'm sure the more the timing was advanced the better the symptoms got. Cheers also RangeyRover. I would love to megajolt the old girl in the future but for now I'd like to get my head around the basic original system...! It's a bloody steep learning curve!

(First of all, the sub topic is supposed to say what's yours set to! Sorry hit enter and now can't change it... anyway...) Hi all. Small problem since the rebuild (3.5 V8 Efi, 3.9 camshaft fitted). When I put the car in D at idle, or slow up to a junction, as the car reaches idle it develops an annoying wobble, sort of jerking to move. This stops if I put my foot firmly on the break, or move the auto selector into N. I'm thinking it may be the timing is slightly out. On initial start up I set the timing by ear (rotated the dizzy until it was smooth) and the wobble was worse than it is now. I then used a timing light to set it to 8 degrees BTDC (recommended from data at local garage). The wobble improved but it's still slightly there. Truck runs on LPG. So I guess what I'm asking is could it be the timing needs a tweak?! And if so, what have you all got yours set to? The settings I've heard so far vary massively. All help MUCH appreciated. I have developed a serious paranoia about the timing being out and damaging my beloved RV8! Edited to sort subtitle - DEANO

Hello mate. Welcome to the forum. Lets see some pics then!...

Cheers Ian, that's good to know. I can just swap them as and when... Annoying thing is there are no other leaks now, just this tiny bit through the switch. Better touch a big bit of wood now! Probably go outside to find the sump contents on the drive

Nice one noggy, cheers mate. Did think about the quick swap but as I'm draining the oil anyway I'll be ok!

Hi again everyone. Since putting the motor back together (3.5 V8 Efi), the only oil leak I have (so far!) is from around or through the oil pressure switch on the oil pump cover. Can't tell if it's coming through the switch itself or the sealing washer so I've got a new switch, with washer. I'm changing the oil very soon so I just need to know if I can change the switch over with the pump in situ? Will removing the switch mean that the oil pump will need re-priming. Ideally I want to empty the oil, swap the switches, put in new oil, job done! No more leaks! For now! Cheers David

Definitely interested mate. Sent you a PM. Cheers.

Cheers for that guys. I guess if I aim the coolant into my nice clean bucket from B&Q I can re-use it. Just such a pain in the arse!!! Definitely an old rad. Got all the receipts and it's not been replaced ever so I guess i'll be spanking the credit card AGAIN in the name of landrover. All good fun though!