DiscoDino

Hey there... Would like to move some hot air from under the hood, and was thinking of installing louvers/vents (lots of articles showing that they can allow for this...) I'm trying to make them fit on the hood in 3 locations...if you notice a central single sided sheet trapezoidal space (one big one) and two triangles on the side (two long ones)...thinking of two long and one square in the middle... Any lead on affordable, light and FUNCTIONAL louvers online that I can order ASAP? Thanks. Nadim

Axles on plan are steering Rockwells front and rear...with passenger side drop, spools, 2" chromo axles, dual pinion discs, & 4 link-ed with coil overs...the math on lengths and dimensions are yet to come, but with them shaved (mohawk style), I should not lose any ground clearance... Wheelbase should be extended ~5" front and ~3" rear... At least that's the plan... Oh, and before anyone asks/adds, I'll be selling my U1300 Unimog axles as (a) I hate drum brakes, and its gonna cost a fortune to get discs on them (B) pinion conversion / passenger drop is gonna be weird and © I got a great profit margin on them

Thx guys...should be wheeling it very soon... Hey Al, that bar was discretely bent at certain points...since it is a key bar, I did not want to go too thin on the wall thickness despite going thinner in the overall diameter...so the roll-bender I had access to was not able to bend it at all

I know most of you are sick and tired of this build (I'm kinda partial as I got to test the truck out this weekend) Well, all in all, RUNNING great for all the build up (new engine, transfer case, underdrive, alternator, hydro pump, lots of chassis work, re-wiring, etc...) Pending are a couple of things, mainly bleeding the brakes, exhaust redo, some "cleaning up" installations (footwell, fenders, etc...) tools fixing, etc...need to wire the ARBs in and the winches... Truck drives great, at 90km/hr has no shaking at all...lots of tire howling though...the steering is effortless at any RPM/speed range, and centers quite well. Trying to get used to the old Auto shifter (not sure why the new type didn't fit)... Couple of questions before the pics: 1. Can I fit an aftermarket shifter? If yes, any specific type/model? 2. Planning on putting M8274-50 in the rear as the front, but with the bigger axles coming in, and lots of space (+ weight to spare out back above the diff) was thinking maybe an M12 or a 16.5ti would be better...any thoughts? Here goes: 102" wheelbase...needs to be stretched to 108" (Summer 07 project) Front stance...Golf Series 1 front headlights Tube work...very tight and solid... Front stinger Rear cargo set-up (scuba tank in the middle, need to secure Pull-Pal & closures for rear tool box). Fuel filler will get a cage around it so that I don't knock it off accidentally... Flex :flipoff2: Alongside my brother-in-law's Nissan Murano (fast 4x4) Beauty shot (its gorgeous, I don't care what you say )

Before chopping up the Disco, I had the waffles on the cage inside - worked GREAT

thx Will

I have anti-theft...its a box of red marlboros ...that'll steer them away...

1. whole roof was recycled 2. profile is ugly for now - when the mog axles and 49s come in, it'll look better... some more pics... I got a rear center brake light brand new for a Freelander (with the "Land Rover" writing) at 6$ which will be done soon too...Defender sidemirrors as well...

Thx Tony...more pics to come...

Despite the war and all, my mechanic in Lebanon continued to work on my truck and here's a sneak peek (brother took the pics...) Need still to tidy up the wiring and interior, hook up the ARBs and we're good to go (testing should happen in end Sept) We're going to add one diagonal across the back for side flops...but I think that should be it... What's your take people? Cheers...Nadim

I've been using the Jac Mac 30 spline axles in my "Banjo" Rover diffs for 3 years straight now and not one issue, no major twisting (rear long has a tiny twist...nothing major) and I can see another 2-3 years of work from them EASILY...Jac Mac are leaders in this sector, and they have a very good record... Keith is a great guy, offers straight up products and knows his stuff, plus his rear Salisbury survived the OBC, so I am sure his axles are up to the task... Close toss up...both great products and vendors.

I'm running the Jac Mac 27spline Chromo axles, Long Chromo 27 spline CVs and Toy 3rds with ARBs and 4.88s. Am yet to break one with 2.5 years of hardcore wheeling on 37" IROKs and a full bodied Disco. With a lot of the weight off (some added from exo cage) I'm taking my chances with the same axles on 42" IROKs. Time will tell, but if something goes south, its time for portals...

Thanks Cols...

FB Thanks for the generous offer - I'd lack on how touched I am...I keep telling other offroaders that own other makes what a clan Land Rover has around the world and this gesture peaks the top. Seems that the truck will be taken up to the mountains by Friday latest. I hope it'll stay out of harms way until then. Thanks again guys...I'm humble for words. Thanks.

Despite MANY calls from across the world (I work in communication, so the company network is huge) this post with your kind words, and similar ones on Pirate & other forum touch very deep to heart. Family is in the mountains, and they may be evacuated with the Canadian Diplomatic Coverage on Saturday, else, they have decided to stay in the mountains as they have deamed it bearable for now...I'm stuck outside the country as I was traveling on business when the **** hit the fan Truck unfortunately is not fully finished, and the garage is at the N-Eastern outskirts of Beirut, which may get prone to shelling. If it goes up in flames, I'm not going to lie, I'll die of fury, but I am sure that I'll build another one... Anyways, dire shame that civilians are dying by the dozen and no one is thinking about this seriously... Cheers, and thanks once again... Nadim

Stock (4th day I got it) 4 month later... 1 year later... 3 years later... 5 years later... As of last month (8 years later and should be done next week )...

So one has a choice, with the Longs, to either: 1. decrease the diameter of the stub shaft on the Long CV OR 2. increase the inner diameter of the Rover swivel housing If that is true? I've done #2, which I think doesn't put more stress on the CV... Am I missing out on something...

Well, ~4 months into this (part time) and we're on the finishing touches... Everything to do with the following is fully done: 1. Engine (4.2, ECU extension, cone air filter, wiring, etc...) 2. transmission (cooler, shifter handle, etc...) 3. cases (LT230 and the Ash underdrive, the latter's level, etc...) 4. diffs (took care of leakes, welded some fractures, the swivel strengtheners, etc...) 5. brakes (DBA Gold & EBC pads) 6. Rims & wheels 7. Signaw pump 8. Steering (3/8 walled tube, 1.75" diameter, 3/4 heims) 9. Interior (seats, battery mounts, switches, Defender Mirrors...etc...) 10. Everrything to make it run is DONE! Still to go: 1. Finish the front light section 2. finish rear exo 3. Paint rear exo 4. take it to MOT 5. WHEEL IT Yes, I know, I'm gonna stretch that wheelbase to ~108 after my wedding (need to afford coil-overs and 4 links F/R) - thinking of extending the front for a better approach angle and have the same front/rear driveshaft length...whatcha think? Here are the pics...its fugly, rightly so as its not a beauty queen...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485014

SWEET - I thought this was my thread

Was driving on Tuesday and all of a sudden had a massive white smoke and no turbo pressure. Took it to the dealer, and here's what they have to say: I have inspected the vehicle and found free axial play in the turbo main shaft which connects the two propeller turbines. The shaft and rotating bearing are lubricated by the oil line which you have mentioned in your mail. The free play on the shaft causes the oil to be sucked into the turbo charger burned with the exhaust fumes and producing the white smoke. Require to renew Turbo charger assembly with cleaning of inter cooler from oil remaining. Cost of repair after your special discount USD 2,084 Just checking that this is what this is, and the price is "reasonable"? any suggestions? Thanks. Nadim

I use these factory units (RBC100111) from www.expeditionexchange.com, my shocks are too short for them to completely disclocate, but they're there to help if needed...(rubber made)

Hey guys - first thanks for the kind words and the gay hi-jack (why no finger smiley ) Current wheelbase is 102", outside width is 84". I'm planning to go with the Mog axles in a years' time not because of fear for the Toy set-up (knock on wood, spray Holy water ), but because: 1. I want to run 112-115" wheelbase for stability 2. for that I need rear steer for manouvrability - not sure any other axle on 42" will withstand rear steer 3. that will mean 4 link and coil overs (I still prefer non-portals, but I am thinking of a suspension design to eliminate that main fear of portals and, since they will be totally outside the chassis, they will sit really up high, so no COG increase hopefully) 4. I love the 42" IROK, so with mogs, even more clearance 5. they are dirt cheap 6. will make them lightest possible regardless of the weight, its unsprung, so I'm kinda cool. Sourced the axles from Lebanon (where the truck is and I am from, but I'll be LIVING in the US Al ), they are dirt cheap here as we buy f*&^ed up trucks for close to nothing from the military... Al, for the stinger, the "U" is the best in my opinion. I am trying to elude getting a smack on the top of teh cage, so a barrel roll is better than an end over...I'll try it out, if it doesn't work, then I'll figure it out, but I've seen far too many clips of "V" stingers getting the truck on 1/4 of its nose/top that I didn't like it...

Thanks guys... Snorkel idea a la D4x4 is in mind, but I want something simpler...still best option i guess...

Well, Had a 3 day trip back to Lebanon to work on the truck and we are 80-85% done so far - only things to do is finish (1) the exo cage, (2) clean up the wiring, & (3) figure out the air filter/snorkel bit. All the new components are fully functional (4.2, Auto, underdrive, new brakes, Saginaw PS pump, 120amp, paint, waterproofed cab, interior, etc...) Here are some updated pictures. 1. You're going to laugh, but we found this hydro manual bender in an adjacent garage. No markings, but it did bend the 60mm x 5mm tubing fairly easily... 2. Tidied up the front end and made a hood-attached radiator grill that came out looking "hereditary" from a RR Sport - all lighting will be Defender based for ease 3. Dual Yellow-tops slapped right behind the seat 4. Tiny rear window is all we need to look out of the truck (VW camper source) 5. OK, the trophy. My mechanic called me up (I like out of country) and told me "I found this big ass PS pump, I want to try to mount it, its cheap and looks huge" - after knowing that it has a built in metal reservoir, I know it was one of those desirable ones. It was tricky to mount as the belt needed to clear the box, but it is doable. I'll attest to 0psi in the 42s, on garage floor and steering, at idle, with one hand 6. Approach angle is more than I wanted, but it is not as bad as it seems. There will be a stinger there in upside down "U" form (not "V" as the idea is that the "v" one will make the truck rotate to the side - not sure how viable that is). I replaced the Warn 4-pack solenoids with a single Albright sealed solenoid - one each per winch. 7. The inside lost the A/C but I left the heater for now for the winter and defogging the glass. The rear glass is tiny, so no structural strength lossed. Also, the underdrive level is set (rod, no wire) 8. The rear section is taken up mainly by the stock fuel tank, but it’ll also have place for the 60” hi-lift, Pull-pal, Waffles, and a storage area for my tools and recovery gear. Also a place for my scuba tank air source 9. Here’s mocking up the exo cage – in fact we’ve already finished the trickiest bar (top one) and are finishing the “main” cage by Tuesday and hopefully by Saturday we should be fully tacked in. Next week we’ll get it fully welded, epoxy painted (rubbery stuff, real durable and cheap), and then remounted for chassis welding. I really want to extend the wheelbase eventually (next spring) – I’m getting married and moving to the US, so no use in investing more into it now…also thinking of putting some Mog U1300s on it (1100 USD for a pair, 1200USD if they are both steering) while I’m at it… Any suggestions? Comments? Let me have it while I can change for the last week. Main think that’s puzzling me, how to mount a snorkel WITHIN the cab area (not outside the Exo) in an easy manner? Also, so I really need a snorkel? The hood is chest level, and I don’t think I’ll be flogging it in deeper muck/water? An open cone Filter would do?