DiscoDino

If I were you I would keep the hicap 110 and do the following: Ditch the hicap pic-up bed, Maintain the 110" wheelbase Cut off anything past the rear sling perches Build challenge front wings, external cage, and a minimal tray-bar tube frame around the main 1/2 cabin IF you want more manouvrability, look at getting a good rear steer axle (101 front, Rover front with Longfield CVs, etc..) The idea I am proposing is to focus the simple/economic tasks on the metal work (if you want to label it as suck), and then focus the innovative/costly tasks on the mechanics so you can enjoy the stability of the 110" wheelbase, but also have the manouvrability (obviously not sure if this can clear the comp rules?)

I'm going from current 42" tires to 44s or 47s largest setting...I'm hoping that with the ~500kg drop in overall weight, and the increase from 4.88 to 6.72 in ring and pinion will keep the 4.2 happy...the V8 will be getting some tender loving care to let it get to 250hp comfortably... Once we start the work, we'll definitely post up. Thanks.

Sweet! Thanks guys...

Hey there, I'm looking to rebuild my Disco truggy into a Defender 1/2 cab truggy so that I can enjoy the somewhat smaller dimensions & lighter weight. I'm looking the complete cab with doors (preferably the split doors), nothing else (getting a GRP bonnet), preferably in good, used condition. Google-ing hasn't provided any good results, so I'm reaching out to the community here to see if you know/trust a breaker that I can get in touch with, communicate via email/picture for the items, and package/ship to Lebanon. I know that whatever I'll get would need repainting and some metal work (change from diesel to V8, from RHD to LHD, etc...), so no issues there...but need the basics to start building! For those interested, the plan is to keep the 4.2V8, ZF, LT230 & the Underdrive...get some rockwell axles in there with 4 links & ORI struts, along with dual M8274-50s...keeping it as simple as possible... Thanks as always, in advance, Nadim

Hey Rich, I responded to you on Pirate4x4.com, I also posted on the blog, and I emailed the two fellas I mentioned in my PM for a heads up. Hope we can be of help. Nadim

Same here...bought a 1983 2 door and taking it to it's former OEM glory... Any information on the OEM winches that were available? and mountings? what about the Webasco canvas roof? Thanks! Nadim,

Probably the most cost effective double beadlocks are the Hummer H1 16.5 rims...get a set, burn out the center, fab your own for the Land Rover pattern, weld in, and that's that...50$ a wheel here in the US, 200$ for 4...put them on a palette and ship them...no?

Only in Dubai...eh Streaky

Let's put it this way...the ETs don't love the rocks, and I hated them on the rocks...the SS Iroks did much better there...as with everything, it is a compromize...the Iroks don't do as well as the ETs un the mud, but that's the only terrain I give up on with the Iroks that shine in all other terrains...Boggers aren't great on the rocks either, but by simply offering more than 36" sizes, they will outshine the ETs

I love my TD5 90 with all the bolt ons to may it go, and I love my 4.2V8... But my next project will have the 6.2 all aluminum GM from a wrecked vehicle...cheap(er?), as light, and 2x the power

Agree on your tire size thinking, but the larger the tires, the more effort, the less speedy...at least that's my impression... That non-assist Defender Box is a good idea...any numbers show flow rate?

Definitely easier for smaller tires...36 to 34 isn't THAT dramatic, so I wouldn't say that you'll be THAT MUCH safe...when I went from 36 to 42, I fel the difference...

Yeah - time to go full hydro and get the appropriate orbital valve

I've been running hydro assist since 2004...it isn't perfect, but it helps through... Ram is from Rockstomper in the US, mounted in the normal Defender steering dampner location, & the pump is from a GMC truck (believe it is a Saginaw pump)...the issue isn't the ram, the mounting, the pump or anything else...the issue is the steering box itself...I don't believe it is made for a high flow rate and therefore limits the amount of pressure/volume heading to the ram...does that make sense? My next step is to see how to bore the steering box, put the assist set-up on my 36"ed daily driver, and go full hydro on my 42"ed truggy

Here are some of mine: Spot the D90? The dunes are big...

Before going truggy, I was running an OME lift (called the 3" lift), a 2" body lift and the fiberglass flares...with a respectable amount of flex...ran 36" Interco IROKs, which are measured at 36.8"...and a lot of backspacing on the wheel...I did have some rubbing, but that didn't stop as I cut the flares a little bit more... With the new rubber flares which are said to have an even larger opening, I believe you can fit a skinny 38" (38x11 bogger?) safely... Question is, do you have the drivetrain for it? Nadim

Thanks guys!

Some of you have seen the Dino...it has been a while since I posted...but have been lurking for a while...cheers fellas!

I replaced the wing completely with tube...not in/out...and it was the right decision...been hitting on them and the tubing is far strnger than the alum

OME 764 front and OME 762 rear with N73L shocks front and N29 rear - best set-up for stability, comfort, load capacity AND articulation (go retained top and bottom)

yeah, prefer retained by far

In some countries for that money you can hire a group of people following you and use manpower when needed...and when not, they can do entertainment as well...

Hey Streaky!! How's the desert? I bent my Pull Pal shovel and had to re-inforce it with angle iron on the back of the blade...haven't used it since doing that mod, but I guess it'll work...

Not going to add fuel to the retained/floating argument...but after 9 years of being floating (RTE cones from the US), I went retained this summer and PREFER it a LOT...

Witha 3" OME suspension lift, a 2" body lift and extended cut out flares, you should be able to run 36-37s