was a nice truck?

I cant help but feel there is a cause of the heat and curing that may be easier than sorting a coller. Not as 'ardcore' mind Dave

cooler is a brilliant idea, If you manage to fit one please post I would certainly be interested. Cheers dave

Thanks, the haynes comic was erring on ep90 but i dont think that was for a bw transfer case. It would be nice to know why the last lot got so burnt though, ideas anyone. The level was spot on just absolutly knackered oil Dave

Help ive just checked the level in my borg warner transfer case and the oil that has come out is a bit scarry!! Should it be ep90 or atf??? If it should be atf then the last lot is in real bad nick having only done 8000 miles or so. If anyone knows what should be in there i would be right grateful. Thanks in advance Dave

I have always ballasted tractor tyres using a common garden hose pipe. 1. remove valve core 2. place hose over valve with valve at the top 3. fit jubilee clip and tighten 4 turn on tap 5 leave until inflated or hose blows off if water comes out of tyre then all is well end level should be approx top of wheel hope this is what you need save your money.!!!!

Mine did the same eventually tracked down to a crappy thermostat.!!!! Once a fresh stat was fitted it tidied up no end ,never sure it will be lean though!! DW

So is anyone else going to bonny Scotland in feb?? DW

No not at all. It was fine if i didnt carry half a tonne of oplough steel in the back.Then the tyres caught the spats until a quick visit from a hacksaw. Now all is fine even off road.

Yeah they are on 15" rims (not mach 5s) overall dia is about 32" But they do fill the arches well Dw

My slightly biased advice is to fit a 3.9efi. I run one on a 4 speed auto and bw transfer case with 33 12.50s and although it is high geared the engine copes well and mpg is acceptable at 20 on a good run. Good luck with whatever you chose

This thread is going to end up like a well known scene from "jaws" I cant compete but did crush my little finger between the a frame and its crosser when bodging about with a rolling chassis with no springs in. Lift , kick out spring, lower, o flip that hurts.... lift and drop.

first thing i would do is order a complete set of the bulkhead/wing fixings and the captive nut type jobbies as some will not want to play the game!! Good luck with cage fitting it will take far longer than you think dAVE

I am undergoing the same ******* torture myself at pres with the added greif of chopping a 110 hicap tub to fit a 90. I agree anyone who does cage fitting for a living deserves to charge wot they like. It is so time consuming!!! If anyone is interested i chose a tomcat flat pack cage and i am very pleased with the quality and i beleive it is value for money. Dave

Thanks Will ,read your post and sighed with releif. Both are thick flanges. Then read Daves post BU##er.!! Ireckon the only sure way is to pull things apart and look.Another job i will ahve to fit in b4 the ironman. ta anyway DW

Thanks Chaps AFAIK(just figured that out!! Doh!!) they are td 90. They are def 10 spline at the diff end and not 300 tdi stubs so i would be prepareds to guess i have the best of lrs factory fit. Hope so truck is going to inverness in feb runnin 33 12.50 15 mt's.

Hi all, Silly q coming Is it possible to tell what cvs i have without reaching for spanners. Iknow the axle no. is wrong for the componenents as i have changed both stub assys. previously and discarded the relevant center tube . If what i have read on this forum is correct (usually is IMHO) Then i need 23/24spline 200tdi cvs. Help please Thanx DW

I am running a rr rear on my 3.9efi auto 90 and the rear brakes are keen but not outragous though i have fitted new discs and padds for the forth coming mot and havnt driven it on them yet. Should be better as old ones were shot to bits!!!

Freind of mine had a truck which ate ujs in weeks turned out the props were not quite long enough and were bottoming out.

My local club which shall remain nameless doen't consider jate rings a valid recovery point. However i beleive the militery d loops seem acceptable.

A mate of mine had the same/similar problem turned out to b e the brass gauze on the pick up pipe in the fuel tank. These are only fitted to petrol vehicles it seems .His solution was to ditch the gauze knoeing he had a good fuel(diesel)filter fitted in the line. Hopr this is of some help DW B)

my r380 had the same problem. It turned out to be the cup on the end of the reverse selector rod at the gear stick end had come loose. Ther e is a grub screw which has a habit of comeing undone. Removal of tunnel and the bit under the gear stick and a tweek with an allen key fixed it . I dont know if lt77 are the same but if your freind is mechanically minded at all it is a cheap and easyish place to start. Dw

When i was much younger and single without mortgage nad dog, I screwed my soul (and wallet )up really tight and bought a "snap on" Filter wrench. Have never Known it to fail and once had a knucle bar and 3 feet of scaffold tube on it .Dont ask.. Dave w

If you are worried about toasting warn solenoids (they seem mighty fragile enough) I suggest you consider fitting albright contactors. They are cheaper than 4 warn units and far more reliable.

I can think of one reason for storing it on the passengre side. To balance weight of fuel tank(poss under d.seat) and driver. Didnt say it was a good reson though.!!

I have fitted a seal to a rr box but this was yonks ago. It passed the mot but i cant say if it was a long term thing or not also as i recall it was wear in the bush/bearing that the shaft spins in that had caused the seal to fail. I would replace the box if Excesssive free play can be felt . Just my thoghts though others may see a different route.!!