Drakes

Yes I do mean will it fit, I was thinking of using one to raise the gearing on my TD5. The second post would appear to answer my question Any other comments

Is the Borg Warner Vicous transfer box from a Classic RR a direct replacement for a LT230 from a 90 Any comments welcome

I have a 90 TD5 auto using Ashcrofts set up but pre compushift and running with hydraulic controls on the auto box, still the best thing I ve ever done to it though. It is much better to drive around town and off road, only slight problem is around 55-60 where it can hunt between the gears a bit but I think that the compushift set up probably solves this.

You mean it uses 2-3mpg more or less ie. 18-19

I am going to spend about £20k so will not be in the TDV8 market and will probably be the BMW petrol aswell. So 4.4V8 or TD6 please give me your thoughts on fuel consuption, reliability, ease and enjoyment of driving and anything you know that you think I should know. Most motors seem to be Vogues so I asume an HSE might be cheaper to pick up, it being less popular but does it still have enough toys, what are the most important ones missing compared to the Vogue Thanks in advance, whatever you say I dont think it will put me off but it may just guide me in the right direction

I am trying to do a comparison of fuel consumption between tne two, any figures along with the type and style of driving would be helpful. My 4.6 HSE seems to run at about 20-21 mpg according to the trip computer on mainly fast Scottish A roads with a little bit of dual carrigway thrown in now and again.

The reason I started the thread is that at minus 11 up in Scotland I drove for about 90 minutes and still had frozen washers at the end of it. My washer mix is not as strong as 50/50 but it was only the nozzles that were frozen, I acyually disconnected one of the nozzle pipes to get some water out that I could throw on the screen to wash it with, the pipe was not frozen hence my thoughts towards heated nozzles. I had them on my classic along with the heated windscreen and they worked well, didn't live in Scotland then though so not quite as cold. The Scandinavian countries must get round the problem some how or is it cold enough there that you don't get the spray off the roads to make your screen dirty. As requested I am keeping the thread going.

Are these available to fit P38s and if so from where. I have fitted some BMW one to my 90 by drilling and filing a hole in the bonnet and they work great but I dont fancy filing out the hole in the RR bonnet it being steel

Thanks

Can anyone tell me if a P38 bonnet is ally or steel

Total cost was about £1000 including the rolling road about 5 years ago. While Mark was doing the chip he was able to adjust things like engine braking to what I wanted so on my off roader I had the engine revs drop off very quickly for better braking but the road motor drops off slower to make it smoother to drive. As I said before give Mark a call and discuss what you want.

I have used Mark Adams on 2 of my vehicles and would highly recommend him. I did however have my vehicles set up on a rolling road and Mark programmed the chip to my vehicles. I would give him a ring and have a chat with him he is a very helpful bloke and wont try to sell you something that is going to be no good for you. In my experience you will get better performance from your standard gearbox mode after the chip than you get from the sport mode now and some improvement in fuel consuption. I regularly get over 20mpg from my 4.6 on cross country Scottish A road and I dont drive it gently.

I have a 2004 TD5 90 and would like to improve the brakes a bit. I need to fit new brake pads soon, if I buy some decent ones is this likely to give an improvement or do I need to look at changing discs - they are origional and in good condition with about 40000 on them. Any ideas for pads - mainly road use with just occasional play days. Any ideas for discs if I need them to improve performance Thanks in advance.

I run 265/75 R16 KL71 and think they are a great tyre, this the size LR fit on 90s if you go for BFG Muds on alloys. I have run BFG Muds for a good many years but changed to the KL71s last time around and have now done about 20000 miles on them and they are about half worn out. On and off road I think they are better than BFG but probably don't last quite as well. A few of my friends have now changed from BFG but have not done many miles yet but seem to be quite pleased so far.

I have run a 4.6HSE for 60000 miles on a multipoint system and you can not tell the difference when running. It has the 95 litre tank in the floor and I normally get 230-250 from it and the trip computer shows 18mpg so that what it thinks it is doing on petrol just to allow you to compare your normal fuel consumption with mine. My system is an AG and was fitted by a company called Gastech in Huntingdon, not the cheapest but really good workmanship and customer service. Servicing is just a filter change and check over everty 12000.

I assume this switch is on the transfer box somewhere, thought I might disconnect it on my 2004 and see what difference it makes.

I have run a 98 4.6 on LPG for about 70000 miles now and have been very impressed with it. In the past I had dealt with Mark Adams (V8 genius) so I asked him to recommend a system, his answer, it needs to be sequential to avoid the risk of back fire as mentioned above. Two systems he suggested of equal quality were AG (made by Nicholson Maclaren) and Prinz(not certain of spelling). I went for the AG as I found a local dealer that I liked when I went to speak to them (they also build drag racers that run LPG and their work is so neat and tidy it has to be seen). The AG system has its own ECU that works with the vehicle ECU (I don't know how I'm not up on that sort of thing) which means that, although there is no need to, if you at some later date decide to "chip" your main ECU it links with the LPG ECU aswell. After running it for about 10000 miles I went to see Mark and had him remap the vehicle ECU and just as he said I got the exact same improvement on LPG and petrol. I run on LPG nearly all the time but sometimes I travel to north Scotland where I end up using a bit of petrol and you can not tell the difference when driving it. Please note these are my views as a user and not as e mechanic/fitter. I would highly recommend speaking to Mark weather you go for LPG or not he is such a wealth of V8 knowledge and can remap your ECU to suit your particular driving style. He is in the mags as Tornado systems

With NFU and LPG at no extra cost as but did want a certificate to say it had been fitted properly

It runs fine when started so I thought that AFM would be ok just wanted others opinions. I can't tow start as its got auto box, fitted long before any starting problems so presumably nothing to do with that.

I have a 2004 TD5 90. Sometimes when you turn the key to start it fires sraight away, sometimes it turns over long enough for me to think its not going to start but does eventually fire up, normally it just turns over a few times. It does not make any difference if its hot or cold or if I wait for the glow plug light to go out or not Any ideas would be great. Two thing mentioned by mates 1 possibly air flow meter but I think it would affect the running not starting but don't know 2 starter motor windings failing causing the crank sensor to give the wrong signal to the ecu (starter turns the engine fast enough though)

I used to run BFG 235/85 on Boost alloys (8 inch wide I think) and now run KL71s in 265/75 and find them much better on the road, perhaps the extra width helps. Off road the KL71 appears to self clean better but to be honest I would be hard pushed to choose between them Alright I had the KL71s cause they look better but if I could not see them I would still go for them again, noise wise I would say they are the same ( enough other noise in a 90 any way )

Thanks mate thats what I had seen but could not remember where. I shall place an order.

I don't remember where I saw this but has anybody seen a gadget to fit to the battery terminal or lead that cuts off the battery before the voltage drops to a point where it will not start the vehicle. I sometime need to leave things connected to a 12v source while I am away from the vehicle and it always worries me that I might come back to a flat battery. I know I could fit an extra battery with a split charge but this seemed an easier and probably cheaper option.

I am looking to change my P38 to an L322 probably a 53 or 04. What I want to find out is the spec change from 2003 to 2004 models ie the difference between early and late 53 vehicles, also the differences between HSE and Vogue as I suspect that an HSE probably has more gadgets than my 4.6 HSE and would obviousley be cheaper than a Vogue allowing me to buy a lower milage/better condition. Any particular points to look out for would also make interesting reading.

SORTED Took motor into my local specialist who plugged it into the computer and had a fiddle around and found that one of the flaps that the heater motors control was sticking at one extreme of its movement, so they freed it up and adjusted it and all is working okay now. Cost half an hour labour. P38 heating isn't always expensive to fix just normally!