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Paul Humphreys

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Posts posted by Paul Humphreys

  1. Well I went to the show yesterday and was very dissapointed. I don't know about the trade stands being fully booked as per the earlier post, the trade area seemed to be half empty, not nearly as good as previous years. I usually really enjoy the show as I think it's in a great setting and so far, seems blessed with good weather. You could easily walk around the trade stands in an hour or less yesterday. I've been going to this show from the beginning but on the strength of yesterday I don't think I'll bother again. :(

    Yes I agree, I was there from friday dinner time and it was not that good. Less stands than last year. As for space, we (CRAG) could not get a pitch as we were told "there's no space as we are full" !!!

    Paul

  2. Paul,

    if it helps I was told by superwinch that the motor fitted to the H14 is a Parker TB series motor, code number TB0130AS100LAAY. This is the one that they use on a mini bellhousing bolted directly to the winch. I assume on the LR set up that it is the same motor, but just bolted to the bracket that bolts onto the chassis, then uses the stub shaft to drive the winch.

    You can down load tech info from the parker website.

    From the hydraulic motors/pumps I've looked at the third port is usually the bleed from the casing back to the tank. This keeps the casing pressure low. If you run the pump up with this blocked the casing will pressureize to discharge pressure and potentially blow the seals. Also with this type of set up the casing often needs to be full of oil to lubricate the pump internals. Hence they are ment to be filled with oil via this port prior to connecting up the vent line and running the motor. Additionally it will allow any air in the casing to be swept back to the tank.

    I think the parker pump above has only two ports.

    Adrian

    Thanks for that, but the h14 I have seen have only the 2 pipes.

    Sorry I don't have any info on Dowty motors.

    If the 3rd line is a drain, it should go back to tank. For testing, stick the open end of the hose into a drum (assuming your tank has a reasonable capacity and won't run low) - if the motor is any good, the flow will be low.

    I will be giving it a go later this week. Not had tome this weekend as I was away at the LRW show.

    Paul

  3. Should be fine for test purposes, the idea of the third port is when going from forward to reverse under load or visa versa the pressurised oil is bled off thus protecting the seals and returning the oil to the tank.

    I will get some blanking plugs and test it a gain befoe getting a new motor.

    Paul

  4. The third port on the motor is usually a bleed off for over pressure to prevent the seals being damaged, this pipe usually is returned to the tank, or in this case the smaller port on the valve block.

    So "if" I block it off it will not cause damage other than blow the seals? If thats the cast I can block it off and retest the winch, if it dose blow the seals it would not matter as I need a motor anyway.

    Paul

  5. I needed to have a little welding done to the cross member to hold off the replacement for a few more years....

    On the whole not too bad, the bottom showing signs of age but the strength around the jacking points was lacking....

    post-1475-1180819767_thumb.jpg

    We added some strength underneath and then added some to the rear face....

    Final cleaning in the mud trap areas tomorrow and some serious Waxoyling........ Now have jacking strength back and hopefully enough metal to avoid the replacement for a few years....

    (I cannot claim credit for the work..... I used the same person who fitted my wing vents.....)

    Neil

    Whats the other (tank side) side of the x-member like?

    Mine started like that, but I change the whole lot, took just over a day, but a lot less if I did not keep stopping.

    Paul

  6. Further to my earlier post regarding the 3rd port on the motor.

    Some hydraulic motors have internal mechanical brakes. I have not had any experience with these, but I assume they would need pressure to release the brake and naturally would have a 3rd port.

    If your motor has an internal brake, it would look a little longer than normal and if you posted a pic or posted the name plate details we might be able to tell.

    It would also explain why it does not pull, assuming the brake release line is not corrected.

    Hi John,

    It looks like a standard size. But I dont have a good pic, but will get one tomorrow. I have all the details from the motor,

    IMR027PPDRRK

    8301

    70290

    Motor was/is made by Dowty.

    Paul

  7. E-mails don't stop them chatting and drinking coffee as well as a 'ringing' phone :)

    I know, Tried e-mailing them in the past - not exactly good at replying..........................

    Nige

    Will give them a call today and let you know.

    Paul

  8. Yep

    But that 3rd item is an odd one

    Phone superwinch, ask for tony in technical and ask him what the "3rd" pipe does and can you do without it ?

    Nige

    I have emailed Tony about 2 weeks ago and never got an answer. He was the one I spoke to about the winch when I got the 110. It was him who emailed the manual to me. But the hydraulic system is not the standard one they fit. It might have something to with been fited the same time as the Auto box when it was new just after it left LR to be fitted out.

    But I have emailed Superwinch again today anyway.

    Paul

  9. could be a LP return to tank from motor if the motor has an overcentre valve fitted in it.

    I have a spare motor from a Milemarker in the garage if you want- i also haev a spare spool block- has one double acting lever (ie 0-n-0) and one single acting lever (ie N-O). Let me know if you're interested.

    No good to me I think. My motor is not fitted to the winch, its a remote with a shaft to drive the winch.

    Paul

  10. where the F do the 3 pipes go

    1 to and 1 from the spool block fine, but where does the 3rd go ?

    Maybe if it is to the shuttle valve you can do without ?

    Nige

    Possible, it goes from the drive motor to the spool block. I wil have to see if I can get some blanking plugs and try it. The place just tested it.

    Paul

  11. Hi Paul,

    Glad you have found the problem at last, good luck with the motor i dred to think what that will cost!!

    Matt

    About £150, but its getting one. The only place I have tried said you can not get them anymore. As mine has 3 pipes and all then ones now have only 2 :(.

    Paul

  12. Had the winch/motor tested by a Hydraulic place today. Looks like the motor is on the way out.

    The winch will pull 2T but stalls with 3.2t to pull. All dead weights. So it looks like the winch is ok.

    So they are going to see if they can get me a replacement motor. (some luck :rolleyes: ) As my drive motor has 3 pipes in/out of it. I have just sent an email asking PG Winches if they have one.

    Paul

  13. Going by use of Rough Country +5" shocks they don't have as much damping as the +2" deCarbon's that I had on before, so they won't be an option. Gwyn Lewis has used OME Nitrochargers with his suspension and I understand they are more heavily damped so this may be an option. Hopefully someone with experience of these shocks will be able to comment.

    Steve

    I have Gwyns kit on my 110 with the +5 procomps. It works well.

    Hi Steve,

    Yep

    If I could find a decent shock with the right lengths that would be good :)

    I spent HOURS on the www and website etc trawling through manufactuers dtat sheets, but Procomp where virtally all I could find without having custom valving and shocks built to suit (a la mates racer at £600 per corner :o each !), so thats why I have the Procomps.

    Ho hum

    Rough countrys are out, anyone any ideas for other long travel shocks "Off the shelf(ish) with more damping etc than procomps ?

    Nige

    Procomps go up to +8, but pin to ring. I take it you need pin2pin?

    What I have through of doing is moving the shocks inside the chassis rail. Yes I know I will not get as much damping. But I am not sure how much damping I will lose and how much more travel I will gain. Not sure what to do with the front yet?

    Paul

  14. B)-->

    QUOTE(steve b @ May 21 2007, 05:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
    Been talking winchs to lots of different people lately and some has told me of a H14 mech (i think) that wore out the worm & worm wheel -because it was filled in the gearcase with EP90- to the point where it self locked when powered in...might be worth a look inside ? you could also take the motor off the winch & run it up to see if it runs ok (rotationally , not under load obviously)?

    .....I never realised phosphor-bronze could be attacked by ep 90......will be freeing off the drain on mine & looking for the right oil-mines a fairey mech winch powered hydraulically so if anyone knows the correct oil?

    Steveb

    It sounds like your winch is the same as mine, just they changed the name when they were taken over.

    The manual is on this forum, do a search its in one of the threads I have started.

    Paul

  15. No to be fair we pulled off a brilliant recovery which made the training worthwhile

    plus we could detach ourselves from the event to do it, which meant everyone carried on with what they were doing, oblivious to our predicament

    From my point of view, we did what we were trained to do, very well

    And, sorry to Mark who's Discovery it was, I enjoyed the excercise

    But I am a control freak... as you know :lol: :lol:

    I spoke to Mark tonight and hes been up and started the Disco then drove it home :huh:

    Paul

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