jordan_meakin

With your expectations, I think you've picked the wrong Landy. Try a Disco or a Range Rover classic. The amount of work to make a 109 drive like you describe is going to be unbelievable, back breaking and extremely uneconomical. They are for pottering, fun and tinkering. My opinion, anyway...

Thanks for the replies but I meant what seals/gaskets are good ones to replace to reduce the problem.

Definitely!

Like most Land Rovers, my series 3 self lubricates it's underside or as some say, leaks oil. Whilst the anti corrosion benefits are clearly beneficial, it is making a terrible mess to the concrete. It leaks all over the place. What are the best things to replace to reduce this? I did the engine sump gasket but that still leaks...sod... Also done the output flange seal and in the process of doing the pinion seal. I suppose transfer and gearboxes need attention next...

If your question is simply what price are second hand overdrive units making, then usually above £300.

Thanks again - I know it is really, just spent shed loads recently. Pointless ignition: https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010339 I like it!

Thanks for the help. Hoping to avoid buying new kit at the minute though!

So I have electronic points on my distributor with both a positive and negative feed. How do I go about wiring up a test lamp for timing? I've done it by ear/feel and runs well but spits/pops a bit as you let the revs run down during a run. I've never actually set timing up properly, always guess work! Also, if I set the timing, which marker do I use on the pulley wheel? It has a pointer then 5 marks. It's a 5 bearing 2 1/4. Serial number suggests high compression but the characteristic marking on the flat bit of the head is missing...

Thanks very much for the guidance chaps!

So, my 2 1/4 petrol is a bit smokey on blipping the accelerator. It's developed over the last 18 months and is using oil. It does it hot or cold. I have done a compression test which is good and consistent over the four cylinders. Are the stem seals a likely cause? Next question, is it a ball ache to replace? I've never really delved into engine mechanics beyond changing cam belts on Volvos but happy to try...

Bloke cancelled. Actually quite disappointed desperate for a RR!!

So I posted recently as a long term series owner looking for a RR Classic. I've found a potential. Quite a tidy 1994 300 TDI auto. It's had the suspension changed to coils and various bits of minor work. No advisories on MOT but I have checked history and has had some welding in the past so will investigate - current owner seems to think it's been done well. Going to look soon - any advice??

Sorry my error on the springs, meant spring! But, you get the just.

When you say easy?... Mine is miles off first. The two springs operate the gate that you pass through to make 1st and reverse almost different continents. Are they still attached?

Don't have one...

So I took my prop off today to do the pinion seal which as you see from another post, was unsuccessful. As I removed it, an amount of oil was in the little dip of the UJ where it surrounds the crown nut of the output flange. I recently replaced this seal. It's bone dry around the actual seal/oil catcher and the UJ seemed to make a seal to hold the oil just around the crown nut as it poured out as I pulled it off. My brain is pickled and I can't understand how it's just ended up there and, what I might have done wrong when replacing that seal! Hope that makes sense... All of the surrounding area is dry...

Well, no luck. Couldn't get the sodding crown nut off. Firstly, someone had kindly tried before but failed to remove the split pin, leaving it stuck in with nothing to get hold of to pull it out. Great. Any ideas? I'm thinking it'll need cutting off but it's bloody awkward round there for a grinder.

Ooo thanks. Fingers crossed it comes out nice and easy!!

Spot on.

Haha, glad it amused someone! I spend most of my time under it rather than in it. Yes, I'm still talking about the Landy.

Series 3 Rover diff.

I am hopefully replacing this at the weekend providing I can get the crown nut off. I'm sure there are intricate details of setting various blah blah blah but, is there a specific torque for that nut when refitting?

I recently bought a new one of these from John Craddock. It arrived and great, new design with a sort of carbon fibre inner moving cable with a strong PVC casing, works really nicely and no chance it'll seize. Except, it doesn't fit. It is the correct part but it's too thick to fit under the small clamps that hold the casing. Has anyone else experienced this?

Mostly use mine as a tool for self flagellation when I feel like banging my head, busting my knuckles or getting rust in my eye. Occasionally, I do even drive it to Sainsbury's.

I've had all three and my current series 3 one is my favourite - works surprisingly well.