jordan_meakin

Keep an eye on it. It will burn off eventually.

Agreed but make sure the other end is loose to give it the best chance of getting snug.

Might be a good idea - get the goggles and waders on!!

Could be coming from anywhere in that region - gearbox, transfer, output seals etc. If it's leaking a lot, try cleaning it all off to see if you can trace it back to the source. Typical area that Landys self lubricate underneath!

I just used heat and lock grips, damages the thread but was replacing anyway.

It's only a thin gasket. Razor blade is a good shout.

Buy some new ones!! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F321971177185 Brass nuts in the related items. You can have them both for under £10 and will do a much better job.

Oh dear! They're fairly robust so I can't imagine it'd snap but you never know with a Landy! Remember a new copper washer when you put it back in. I suppose, as the oil is coming out, there's no harm in a bit of heat to help it...

Lol! Worth checking though! You got it out?

Nice and clean. Colour usually means 3 bearing.

To be honest, I didn't pay much attention, just did it. Used axle stands to give a bit of height but that does make reaching the studs from the ground a stretch. It's a little awkward but perfectly doable.

Crashing this post, put my new stainless exhaust on today. Has a lovely throaty rasp now and I'm sure it's breathing better. The only shiny bit on it!!

Absolutely - does no harm and will certainly help.

Get a stud set!!

When you say what size nut, do you mean thread or head size? It could be that the thread on the bolt is knackered - I would always replace those and then refit with brass nuts. Last one I did I used a light smear of paste but it's probably fine without. Front pipe from underneath (I think - was a little while ago) but it is awkward (that I do remember), assuming this is a 2.25 petrol.

Is the bottom picture after removal or before? I've just bought a stainless system for £160

Wow, fast work!!

What's going on them?

Agreed - get a proper kit for decent halogens from a reputable supplier.

A little cheaper: https://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/exhaust/88in-stainless-steel-systems.html £162 - not sure you'll get better than that for stainless. Mild steel comes in well under budget - short term alternative? The Britpart one I bought 4 years ago is still fine and cost me about £40. I don't do massive mileage though...

I was sat here thinking, "just replace it, it's easier" - may be easier but at £93 + VAT, it's certainly not cheaper! Good luck repairing, hope it's easy.

So, where has your diagnostic process already been? The obvious is to remove the inspection cover of the cylinder casing to see if it is the linkage that is siezed. A generous dose of lubricant and working would resolve that. Removal may be necessary and isn't an impossible task. Failing that, you need to drain the hydraulic system. Stuck clutch plates or seized cylinders don't tend to give an absolutely solid pedal as you suggest - there would usually be a little give. Indeed, stuck plates would allow you to press as normal with loss of pressure. Let us know how you get on.

Good idea - cheap parts. Don't overtighten the rocker bolts!

Let us know!

They are very cheap and fit under a steel cap under the bolt. I've never had oil come out of them but have had moisture get in. If you replace, be careful not to over tighten. Would be a good idea to do the rocker gasket at the same time.