jordan_meakin

There are big rubber seals under those - are yours perished?

Shiny bits

They will be causing a problem!

Listening again, I'm even more certain it's rotational fouling. Are the prop weights in tact?

Because it appears to be speed dependant, that could be why it doesn't affect 4th. Some vibrations etc. don't occur at higher speeds. Have you tried coasting? Only do it if your brakes are good but when the noise is present, knock it out of gear. If it's still there, I'd put money on it being the prop. Somebody commented about removing the rear prop and driving in front wheel drive - that'd also be a good idea to help identify the problem. Good idea to check the hand brake drum too. Over wound shoes tend to make a different sound but something could have become dislodged causing fouling. Start taking things to pieces!! It won't fix itself!

It's definitely motion dependant but sounds more like something is catching on part of the drive train somewhere. Have you had your head underneath already? Look for any obvious obstructions. Next would be UJ and prop shaft itself. They can make a lot of noise when seized but to be honest, not like this sound. I suppose if your gearbox mounts are knackered, it could mean that the prop is fouling somewhere... Look for shiny/grazed metal where it could have done this.

That would certainly be different but very nice!

Current climate for diesels (although misguided) suggests petrol is a better option. They're lovely engines. I'm a big fan of a decent diesel engine but the driving experience of a petrol is vastly more comfortable.

Can't offer any help but absolutely! Rear brake assembly, prime example. Later Landys are a soup of BL parts - whatever they had available!

Absolutely. Testament to the versatility of Land Rover.

Hilarious! Not quite what I'd envisioned but does the job!

Oh okay, cheers. The last one I looked at didn't have that. It's a late series III so should be fine. Thanks!

Has anyone replaced one of these? Easy parts wise but they have funny little brass rivets that I certainly don't have a tool for. Currently have not lights as it's buggered.

Paddock seem to like Britpart or S**tpart as I call it. John Craddock stocks a good range.

I'd be spending a lot of time looking at the state of the bulkhead and chassis along with body structural supports. These are probably the most likely things to prevent a successful MoT test. Has it been covered? Why's it been off the road?

Great! What's the plan? You're brave driving it with dodgey brakes and clutch!

Good to see another project. What was the running problem? More pictures and info!

You could use an infrared thermometer to see what temperature it's actually running at? Have you checked your timing recently? The next thing is to check for blockages - flush the system, hose pipe on the heater matrix, through the block and the radiator to get rid of gunge. Careful where the run off goes though! How's your water pump sound?

Check for vacuum leaks.

Yes, quite! To be honest, I bought a load of other parts at a local supplier and enquired about them and he threw it in FOC to try. I can't say it effected running but saves setting points gap but realistically, that's no bother anyway! At least with traditional points they give you some warning of when they're getting knackered - these just gave up and could have left me stranded. Is there any significant benefits to the type you have used?

S*hitpart - hasn't been on a year and done less than 2000 miles

So, contactless points swapped for traditional points and fired straight up. Seems to be solved! Thanks for all your responses.

Sorry, missed that - will try today.

So, now testing the coil on the correct multimeter setting gives 4.1 ohms. Bought a new one before I realised and that read 3.8 ohms so I don't think the old coil is the issue. However, still no spark so I'm going to swap out the contactless ignition with the old points in case it's that that has died. To fully rule the coil out, can I put a spark plug directly in the HT lead coming from that, bypassing the distributor? Thanks for the thoughts on fueling. I'm tentatively thinking that the smoke was due to incomplete combustion if it was that the spark was weak/dieing but of course can't rule it out. As I've said, was running great and went very suddenly which in the past, I've associated with ignition problems...

So I have checked for spark on the plugs and seems to be nothing... Surely it's the coil?