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Posts posted by smallfry
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I do wonder, now that tech is/has destroyed so many employment opportunities for so many "manual" workers, and given that the population is rapidly growing, what will become of all those who will not be able to find gameful employment in the future ?
What are they going to do ? Who is going to pay for them ? As far as I can see, this situation is only going to get worse.
Are so many going to employed "spying"on others ? Will we, one day, be in danger of being arrested for something we have said or done in the comfort and "privacy" of our own homes ?
I find this all quite a scary prospect.
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Lucky you can get an appointment at all. During the first lockdown I lost a couple of fillings, and was in agony. Knowing they were closed, I have manfully endured the unendurable for several months. A while ago I received an email, stating that they were now accepting limited appointments.
So I phoned them, and told them what has been going on, only to be told they were doing only "emergency" work. So, still being in agony, I asked what constituted an emergency then ? Receptionist got somewhat shirty.
A few days later I received warning me that I would be excommunicated if I carried on being "abusive" FFS
I still have the toothache.
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Every keystroke, every email, every phone call, every text you ever made is recorded somewhere, and will be used somehow. No matter what you consent to, and whatever rules may be breached. You may even be viewed with the camera in your laptop. Your TV and Alexa could be listening in ..............
Get used to it guys, it is only going to get worse.
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I see no problem at all. Although you might want to fit a high level brake light in the rear window, for no other reason than I think it is a good idea.
Back in the day, sequential indicators and brake lights were verboten, and as far as I know, still are.(cant be bothered to check) But as a lot of cars (mostly German) seem to have them, and be getting away with it, I cannot imagine you would ever have a problem as long as the chosen units have the correct markings and are set at the correct dimensions.
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Seen them on Ford C Max and S Max diesel models, so maybe something Sealey or Laser would do ?
I suspect the different colours would be a size code ? Only guessing though
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It looks like a two car unit to me, and another two car unit has pushed it through the buffers ?
We are the self preservation society 😄
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I also have many ZF gearboxes to fit the V8s in all the colours and all the sizes, and I have not noticed any differences in the bellhousings ????
Diesel one is so obviously different and the starter is on the other side of the engine.
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2 minutes ago, smallfry said:
Michelins France) on my other van were made in 2003, and look as good as new, apart from the tread wear.
Sorry, meant to read 2013, but I am unable to edit.
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Purely out of interest, have a look at your tyres to see where they were made. Most manufacturers have plants in various countries, and I suspect that the quality of the rubber varies.
For example, I have a Fiat van with Michelin (Turkey) tyres on it, and they are really badly perished on the sidewalls and in the sipes at five years old, but the Michelins France) on my other van were made in 2003, and look as good as new, apart from the tread wear.
I have to say though, that Contis I have had in the past seemed to perish, which is why I will not buy them again.
Have also seen plenty of perished BFGs, but to be fair, they were all quite old.
The Goodyear MTRs on my 90 were made in 2004 and are not at all perished.
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On 10/16/2020 at 7:33 AM, Romahomepete said:
The skins on new doors is always going to be softer than teh original a"birmabright" is no longer available.
Peter
The original alloy they called "Birmabright" was a grade of alloy used in aircraft production. It will still be available, or something close to it, today.
It is strong and rigid and hard to work (and more expensive) which will be why pattern parts manufacturers will not use it.
But they could........
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Cracked while launching......?
Cracked while installing more like !
On 10/13/2020 at 11:39 AM, Arnie91 said:The interior is standard original V8. The only change is a carbon momo wheel.... that will be changing very soon 🤪
Quite right. You are putting the standard one back then ? We will all approve of that, Im sure 😆
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Is that fuel cooler water "cooled" ?
If it is, I would not run petrol through it. Its not going to explode into a ball of fire, but could cause vapour lock problems ?
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What Bowie said............
Assuming the vehicle was running normally before the fault, and earths have been checked.
Try a feed direct from the battery to positive side of ignition coil.
If this doesnt work it is probably the coil or the ignition module.
If it does work, there is either a bad connection somewhere, faulty ballast resistor/cable or ignition switch
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I have never found any replacement (non genuine LR OLD stock) doors to be much good.
The curved shoulder is always not right for various reasons, the frame itself is generally thinner, and the quality of the alloy skin is poor.
The skin material is always too soft. If you thump an OLD original door, you will must likely hurt your knuckles (same with all the other body panels) but if you try it with a new replacement, it will dent easily. Also the replacements alloy will rot MUCH quicker than the original.
Best bet by far is to try and source some good condition old doors or possibly ex military, if you do not have the technology to repair some old ones.
However, I suspect later MOD stuff is not what it used to be.
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I suggest that you apply heat to what is left of the bolt, rather than the caliper.
Maybe drill a hole in a piece of steel sheet to slip over the bolt as a heat shield, and apply blowtorch or whatever.
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On 10/1/2020 at 12:23 PM, Blanco said:
Sounds interesting .... shame I don't still live in Kent, .. I do have some panels to collect from a mate in Whitfield , Dover when all this eases up, might come and cadge a cuppa 😉
I have to go near there on Tuesday as it happens.
Welcome to the cuppa, but you're not having any of me chocolate Hobnobs
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Yes you do. Also need to change the output shaft OR cut it off, drill a hole in the end, tap it, then buy and adaptor shaft and bolt.
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I couldnt afford it even if the decimal point was moved two places to the left.
However, no doubt it will be sold at that.
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Would be easier to show you rather than describe it. But the primary purpose of the jig is to create engine adaptor plates to suit the ZF gearbox, and then, if needed, to reverse engineer and alter a bellhousing.
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Before the current week/year code (which not all tyres carry) there was a code with a sideways triangle next to it, but I dont know how far that went back.
I'm sure tinternet can supply the info ?
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45 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Not sure I see the point of a much thicker/stronger aloominum body for a LR... surely the point is the body doesn't need to be strong?
I would beg to differ on that. Over the years I have seen the result of a couple of LRs tail ended by trucks, with the body just wiped off.
Can only say I am very pleased that I was not in them !
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The only problem with the Jap engines, is bottom end torque. I am doing a 1UZ slowly (only been six years so far) and even that has less bottom end torque than a 4.0 Rover V8 (on paper) depending on which dyno readout you look at. Might turn out to be disappointing, but I like the quality and smoothness of it.
I had a Datsun 240Z years ago (RIP KBM180N) and the engine was marvellous, high revving, smooth and powerful, but would be unsuitable for a LR IMO if you wanted to tow, or drive "normally" .
On the other hand the Jag straight sixes seem to have bags of bottom end torque, are hard to break, and would be much better suitedif you want a petrol, and can physically fit it in.
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13 hours ago, Blanco said:
That was my immediate thought, ... I take it they are aluminium?
They are indeed. ISTR that the engine is quite long too. There is a photo of the engine with the 4HP24 gearbox which will give you an idea of the length
https://motor-car.net/innovation/engines/1302-jaguar-engines/16207-jaguar-aj6-engine
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Another vote for Henry (or George) Only thing with NOT using a bag, is that it will just spread fine dust unless you stand it outside.
With Karcher and Titan the bags are 'kin expensive. Have also got a Titan which was cheap. It sucks up water great and can blow too, which is handy, but I dont use it for dirt now.
I find the paper bags better for workshop and building tasks, as the filtration on the cloth bags is better, so they block up too quickly for this type of use. Great for househusband duties indoors though !
Not VOSA - DVSA - engine change
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I believe its not the standard of the work they are interested in, but the provenance of the engine or whatever, that has been fitted.
Probably so that they can count up how many originality points you have used up, and then sting you for an SVA, Q plate etc.
Its all about the money they can rinse out of you, in my opinion