smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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4 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:
PS - if you're just hooning round a field, you'll have way more fun in the kart than an old car. I've done both
When I was a teenager, we used to find it a LOT more fun if it was someone elses car 😔
My friends had a couple of those, or very similar Honda buggies on their farm , but they were called a Honda Pilot ? Good fun but dangerous, even when strapped in. Used to do timed runs round the fields, usually during parties. I broke my arm once and done my knees a couple of times when they rolled. However, none of the guys could get anywhere near the times of one of the girls. She used to do horse trials and steeplechase and is pretty fearless, but she ended up facially disfigured and had a broken shoulder after an accident in one, so be warned. They DO roll over very easily.
They also did a lot more than 20mph too
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2 hours ago, Snagger said:
I hope it’s bad reporting by the paper, with incorrect details or items quoted out of context, because if the police special examiner report said there was a missing wheel bearing but also said the wheel came off because of a snapped shaft, then the police aren’t competent to be doing the job. Frankly, I have very little faith in the competence of news journalists, so I think the fault probably lays there, but who knows?
Must surely be a snapped stub axle, for whatever reason ?
I must confess that I don't have complete confidence in the Police ? examiners competency, but on the other hand, I doubt very much if the Journos had sight of the actual report in any case.
As for journos, you only have to see the poor gramer and spilling in sum artikles. At least use a spell checker ?
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38 minutes ago, monkie said:
watch this space. (my tests don't involve angle/bench grinders
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Coward 😄 Clearly not a PROPER test then !
All joking aside, anyone have access to a Brinell ? tester ?
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55 minutes ago, Romahomepete said:
I am struggling to work out how you could drive it without one of the front wheel bearings and if you could how you wouldnt know that anything is wrong
Peter
I thought this, but surely it must have come off when the wheel detached and disappeared in grass/down drain, not to be found at the time.
Also, the retaining nut and lock washer would not be able to be used, and surely the wheel would have sat an an "interesting" angle.
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This is exactly why I despair at those mainly young people who look to Youtube etc for guidance by some other know nothing bodger.
Here is a pic of one of mine. Coil sprung series 3 made from what was then a good RRC chassis. built in 1993.
I cant use it any more because of the points system, and I cant "prove" it was done more than 10 years ago, otherwise I would buy a new chassis.
Its fully road legal because its MOT exempt and is insured, but no way would I use it on the road, but sadly, Im sure there are loads running around like this.
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Not a Tdi fan, but I always thought that Bosch DIESEL injection stuff had a part number beginning "04" but its been 20 odd years since I was in the Agri and Plant industry, so maybe that's changed.
Could be the ground one highlighted by VB is an old stock item, and had a different manufacturing method now that machining has come on ? It has a different part number. Also might explain the lack of hologram, which didn't exist a few years ago. It certainly doesn't look crude, as a lot of non genuine stuff does.
I would hazard a guess that it IS genuine, but old stock.
You could grind the needles on a bench grinder and see how it feels, and how the sparks look. If its non gen it will most certainly not be made of the same material, or be hardened correctly, and it will show ! No ? Just a suggestion ..........
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59 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I don't see how more torque wouldn't help with this?
It would, but the problem is that the air is thinner (less pressure) at that height. So although the different cam may help slightly, you are still only relying on the outside air pressure to fill the cylinders.
The real solution is a super/turbo charger. Or a bigger engine, or one that produces more torque in the first place. Like a diesel
The Torquemax or equivalent would be my choice BTW. Reasoning being that less revs will give the cylinders more time to fill, and give you enough to use a higher gear.
The carbs are always going to hobble you though. EFI would be a good choice.
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Recently changed from BOC. Last Argoshield 5 cylinder lasted 7 years.........
Gone to Hobbyweld (not Ultra with the integral regulator). 20 litre @£80 for refill inc VAT They do pure Argon for £100
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Look at the state of that jubilee clip 😲 Where has it been for the last 50 years ? I guess the hose is the same age ?
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Yes Welcome.
Glass Fibre doors were good enough for the Reliant Robin ..............
I dont see why not though. Could be a bonded steel frame. Have to be galvanized though.
It can be quite heavy though ?
I see they state "create", so that means they dont do as stock, so expensive ? Also means your door as a pattern, so it will be not their fault if it doesnt fit !
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On 1/16/2021 at 6:49 PM, Don Del said:
I have attached a couple of photos of the oil filter cartridge mounting which looks to be the pre suffix B straight gear type:-
Yes. Definitely the earlier gear driven pump, you you need a long nose camshaft. As others have said, a 3.9 Efi cam works well.
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32 minutes ago, Don Del said:
It was originally fitted with a distributor but it was replaced with a "dumpy dizzy" (a cut down distributor to provide drive to the oil pump) when I installed a Megajolt ignition system which incidentally performs brilliantly. Hence the coil packs.
Del
OK, I see now. You omitted that small detail 😄 Can you post a picture of the housing that the oil filter screws onto ?
This will confirm what oil pump you have, and which sort of camshaft you will need. If it has V belts, it SHOULD have a gear driven pump, and therefore a long nose camshaft, but some odd things do turn up from time to time.
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Are you sure it has a distributor ? That looks like a couple of coil packs to me, plus I cannot see a king lead of separate ignition coil ?
Cant see properly though.
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And the coil itself could be faulty of course.
Is it ticking before you actually start the engine ? The way its written suggests it does
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Dont know about the ticking noise, but your original problem could be the fuel starvation. Is the pump in tank or in line, and is it a proper one and not a cheap unbranded thing ?
Blockage in the tank pick up ?
Feed hose internal collapse ?
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Its a good point. Dont want to scooping a lump out of any pedestrians !
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What I done with my conversions, non Land Rover, was to take the feed pipe off at both ends, and prime the pump with it running using a big medical syringe. The heater itself will time out, but once it connected up wire fire up easily.
Syringes can be easily got from horsey shops or ebay. I find then useful for lots of things that you havent even thought of yet. They create vacuum too.
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48 minutes ago, geoffbeaumont said:
At least they're taking the first baby steps beyond screwing on body trim and adding a few stickers...we all started somewhere...
That is very true Geoff, but when I started I was supervised by a responsible adult !
Very important with safety related stuff, like brakes ! More for other road users benefit.
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8 hours ago, =jon= said:
In the end, I used Mikalor clamps on all of the joins and it seems to be holding together much better, but long term I will probably look at replacing with rubber hoses and/or one piece/metal replacements to reduce the number of joins in the system...
Do you mean the circular spring type, or the wide band with two barrels and a screw ?
Thanks for the input chaps ! The leaks and clips issue do worry me, and then I dont like having to make up hoses with lots of joins and clips.
I have a good selection of old heater hoses from various vehicles going back a long time. For now, I think I will chop them up and make something out of them. I know it probably not good practise given that they are old, but at least I can work out hoe to route them temporarily.
Ten years later ..............
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7 hours ago, Snagger said:
if you can’t tell a rad hose from an oil hose, then you probably should put the spanner’s down! 😉
This is what I think when I see threads on "How do I change the brake pads on my Turbo Nutter Coupe" .............
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On 12/31/2020 at 1:47 PM, Yostumpy said:
if They are both semi-derilict , why bother at all?
Basically the cars are scrap. Would need way too much welding, plus the rooves ? have rotted. It is to ascertain if the engines are worth keeping for further use.
Had another look at this yesterday. Took out the tank sender and found both the feed and return blocked solid with what looks like lard, but a lot harder. Also in the tank itself is what looks like sold lard/congealed chip fat, so I assume thats what the PO used ?
The metal parts on the tank sender are also rusty, even where it has been submerged in the gloop, so this is not a good sign. The stuff in the pipes took some shifting too. Almost like rock. Gloop also in the lift pump, so changed that for a used one that works. Blew through the feed and return with petrol and got them clear.
We then stuck a big yoghurt pot in the tank sender hole, filled with fresh BP ultimate diesel and put the feed and return lines into it and started the engine. It runs slightly better but still smokes as much. I guess FIP is either semi blocked, or is rusty inside, and most likely not done the injectors any good either.
Hopefully leaving the fresh diesel in it will dissolve some of the gloop, but what it really needs is a replacement FIP that is not electronic, and probably injectors too.
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Cant comment on completely dead batteries, but I have three of the Lidl chargers, and they have all packed up within the guarantee period. Couldnt be bothered to claim on them, but will not buy another cheap one.
However, they have yielded up some nice medium duty insulated crocodile clips on shotgun leads !
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Not with any of the Tdi engines, but 20 odd years ago tried some non genuine nozzles in a Turbo Diesel (19J) and like you, it seemed no different than the old ones.
Gave up with that and bought a set of genuine CAV exchange ones, and the difference was night and day. Lesson learned !
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Hayter do not exist any more, except by name, so for the mower itself you are effectively stuck with Bripart type non genuine parts sadly.
B&S are no problem, and there is a dealer not far from me, if you get stuck. I can post them to you. They know how to charge though. There will not be any tariff.....................
I do remember having many problem with non genuine point sets, so if it still has them and you want to change, buy genuine.
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10.5:1 and Composite or 9.35:1 and Tin - or 10.5:1 Megasquirt Tin ?
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
First thing to do will be to compression test it. If you have unequal compression pressures, it will never run properly.
I guess its a 3.5 as you say you have 10.5 pistons ? Assume it already has EFI or is it on carbs ?