smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Hmmm. Doesnt look great though.
If I had to make the choice, it would have to be the green bag one.
Tough call. Do you have a buffing wheel ?
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9 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Once you have the kit working it is addictive! Best piece of advice I can offer is that it works 'line of sight' so you will need to get an annode inside the cistern being careful it does not touch
Waiting for SWMBO to come home from shopping with some washing soda................
I am going to cheat. Instead of a plastic container I am going to try filling the cistern and dangling the anode from a cable tie inside it and see what happens.
What can possibly go wrong ? 🤣
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14 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Have you tried electrolysis?
No, but I have just read up on it. I am going to get the necessary and give it a go !
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14 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Dipping is crude. But less prone to application error, I had the rims on 109 zinc sprayed three years ago, and the rust is coming through the powder coat.
Next time I'm going to soak them in phosphoric acid, blast them, and 2k zinc epoxy them.
I think my new compressor set up should cope to do all that.
Rust coming through where the wheel centre meets the rim I guess ? Thats what happened to my RRC Rostyles after I had them powdercoated.
Thats one good thing about Hot Dip. All the items are acid dipped prior to dipping even after shotblasting, as the hot zinc will not take to rust, whereas zinc spray will cover it.
Went to the galvanisers today so talked about this.
They advised not blasting and dipping the cistern because they were concerned about holing it.
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Had mine last year. Rather not talk about about it ☹️ Dont know where the time has gone.
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34 minutes ago, Escape said:
@oneandtwo All this talk about spare wheels and the horror stories about not having one has made me want to check all spares! And throw one in the Range Rover again (along with a jack and wrench)...
Filip
Indeed. You will never regret having a spare, apart from the weight, but does that matter really ? But you can regret very much NOT having one. Also, how many of you who have a spare tucked away in a well in the boot or on a cage underneath actually check it ? No good at all if its flat when its needed !
Regarding the Lotus and similar, I can just imagine your weekend away to Saint Moritz with Girl/boyfriend/wife/partner and luggage, and the looks you would get when they have to have a nice big grubby wheel and tyre on their lap because there is nowhere else to put it ! Would take the glamour off it somewhat.
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This has nothing to do with Land Rovers, but it could be !
I am in the process of rebuilding and recommissioning our outside toilet. Its a folly project, but very useful. It has a high level cast iron cistern that hasn't been used for years, and is very rusty inside. I have been trying to clean it up with all sorts of potions, but am going to have to give in and get it shotblasted.
When its clean, it obviously needs to be coated with something that is suitable for constant immersion in water. I have looked at various epoxy type coatings, but these seem very expensive, so I then thought of galvanising. Seems ideal as the iron needs to be rust free for the zinc to bond. Cistern will be immersed, so coverage will be complete. Will provide long term sacrificial protection, and can be overcoated if required, whereas any sort of paint/epoxy can be compromised, and also has the possibility of missed bits.
I see a lot of blurb about hot zinc spraying, and how its "better" than hot dip galvanising in many ways, but this seems to come from those who have an interest in selling the service, rather than independent objective analysis. There is lots of talk about how box sections would NOT need holes drilled for molten zinc to flow and for venting, and how NOT doing this can save weight and money, amongst other reasons. I cannot think why you would NOT want a box section coated internally ??? Surely said item will then corrode from the inside out ?
For example, if you wanted a Land Rover chassis or bulkhead coated, what would be the point of just spraying the outside, and not coating the internal areas ? Or am I missing something here ?
I can see that very large items could not be immersed and the only option would be spraying, and that items with no closed sections would probably be fine, but apart from that, I cant see that it can be "better". I also dont see that the metallurgic bond would be as good either, in the same way that solder does not work properly if items are not sufficiently heated.
So, apart from possible distortion and weld cracking, how can zinc spraying be better ?
Does anyone have any experience of it ?
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As an aside, tyres should always go on, and come off the front (outside) of a one piece roadwheel. The well in the rim is shaped the way it is for this purpose.
The rear bead is nearly always harder to break, and I believe the inner rim might be slightly bigger. Not sure though, and its definitely harder to get a tyre off the back
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A couple of years ago when we had a place in Cumbria , I had a hard lesson about carrying a spare.
I had fitted a nice new set of four Goodyear all season tyres to my Astra, the following day I loaded it up with things to go there (we live in Kent) new front door and some ladders on the roof bars and all. I would have normally taken a trailer, but it had an engine on it, and I couldnt be bothered to take it off ! Because I had tools, SWMBO her friend and the dog etc, I had the bright idea of taking the spare wheel out of its well, in order to cram some more stuff in. What a bad mistake that turned out to be ..................
Arrived Friday, and the plan was to fit the front door and do some other maintenance work, then come home Sunday afternoon/evening, then all three of us back to work on Monday. All went well until we set off for home around 3pm on Sunday. Turning the car round to get out, I clipped a piece of steel sticking out of a derelict gate, which neatly ripped the sidewall out of one of the new front tyres.
The place is half a mile up an unsurfaced track, there is no mobile signal, its Sunday afternoon, and I have no spare wheel, wheelbrace or jack (took the toolkit out as well) and have to be back the next day. Green Flag wouldnt help as I should have had a spare. Anchors. Eventually managed to get the wheel off with an old box spanner from the shed, having lifted the car with some fence posts and a lot of swearing. No chance of getting a new tyre or spare wheel, so had to wait until the following morning. None of us could let work know we wouldnt be in (no phone signal remember) Not much a problem for me, but big problem for SWMBO and her friend.
Next morning I walked down to main road carrying the wheel/tyre, which was quite a trial, then waited an hour for the bus into town. Of course no tyre specialist there, so was held to ransom by local garage charging tourist rates. Budget tyre cost more than the Goodyear ! Back on the bus a couple of hours later, and a half mile uphill walk with the wheel and tyre. Refitted it the best I could, bearing in mind I couldnt do the bolts up properly, and eventually set off for home at 4pm. I stopped at a farm to borrow a socket to do the nuts up properly. Traffic was a nightmare and we eventually arrived home just gone midnight.
So yes, I always now carry a spare. And a puncture plug kit. Wouldnt even entertain NOT having one now.
I understand that if your vehicle is meant to have a spare wheel and you do not have one, some of the breakdown and recovery companies will refuse to attend, so you might want to check that out with whoever you use
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Bit late, but etch prime first then seam sealer.
All new vehicles are done this way. As said , galv will seal most small gaps, but seam sealer stops dirt and grit as well, and looks "proper"
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On 6/27/2021 at 11:00 PM, Happyoldgit said:
I owned two Niva's in the dim and distant past. There were not many about in the UK back then, the first, complete with a wiring loom who's colour codes appeared to be hand painted , seemed to corrode and dissolve before your very eyes was a decent enough thing Offroad but pretty dire day to day onroad. The second was a much better drive all-round but still had trim that seemed to be vacuum formed out of recycled yoghurt pots. I think I still have the pukka hardcover Russian repair manual around somewhere.
I didnt realise they still made them ! I nearly bought one new in early 1990s. I had driven a battered old one off road only and was impressed with its capability, so thought it would be OK. Then I test drove the new one at a dealer. It was so harsh and vibratory that I changed my mind, also the interior was much as Happyoldgit describes 😄
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1 hour ago, missingsid said:
Aren't they linked to APNR databases,?
You would think so, but I have to wonder, as the MOT on our works delivery van ran out at the end of August last year, and was forgotten about. Was only picked up when the Road Tax was up for renewal.
It has done 42k miles since the last MOT, probably about half that since it expired. Driven far and wide with it and also into the London congestion zone, which has been paid several times. Never been stopped, and no correspondence either ?????
Anyway, back on topic, vehicle must exist, and must have current MOT and tax. They may call you in for a random inspection. Also, you cannot use a LATER suffix or prefix. Meaning you cannot make a vehicle appear younger than it actually is.
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Rover p6 V8, and the Rover P5B (Rover V8) Both ran on 5 star when they were current.
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5 hours ago, Snagger said:
Damn it! Autobugger changed sintered to “interred”. Still, I think everyone understood.
Nope, just thought you had gone off on a tangent !
If you pump the Turners photo up, it still looks like machining marks on the belt teeth to me ? Maybe its only poor photo resolution.
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On 6/22/2021 at 9:19 AM, Simon_CSK said:
I do that when working also however I use salvage vehicles for spares so when I stripped the dash out of a sport to replace the air bag I now have a full set of fixings in my cup holders which I new need to put somewhere for safe keeping.
Which you will not be able to find when you want them, and end up buying more anyway........................
Story of my life. 😆 (one of them)
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The original item was sintered, so the teeth would not have been machined at all.
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Another vote for swivel bearings/bushes.
There are two different widths of the front radius arms at the axle end. No experience of getting this wrong myself, but could the narrow ones on a "wide" axle cause this ?
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9 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:
The downside of an upgrade is that you think that you now have indestructible gizmos and then you overload them to failure. Not so bad if you're within striking distance of home, or a supplier of said uprated gizmos, but its the absolute sh*ts if you're in the middle of nowhere - Africa? Also, of course, if you are off the beaten track and one of a pair fails, at best you may have to reverse engineer your upgrade to re-install whatever standard gizmos are available locally.
The other consideration is that by installing uprated components you are shifting the perhaps deigned weak link, which now doesn't fail, but a far more serious/expensive failure occurs elsewhere while taking advantage of the uprated = stronger components.
Dan Grec is talking a lot of practical good sense.
Mike
To be fair, he also goes on to mention vehicle preservation. Surely no one in their right mind would try to climb every mountain and ford every stream if they were attempting this type of trip ? That would be madness. I know it would make the trip more interesting, but apart from having to abandon your vehicle, you could actually die in some of these places.
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Excellent read. And this nugget..........
Factory reliability can only decrease with each modification, so I never modify the driveline, engine and other key systems.
😄
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19 minutes ago, paime said:
i daren't put snow foam anywhere near my beloved Daisy for fear of the whole vehicle melting away!
I thought it was a bad case of aluminium corrosion !
I do love Limestone !
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5 hours ago, Snagger said:
My son is mad keen on it.
As for me training, there is a three letter word more offensive to me than any four letter profanity: “gym”. I don’t see ellipticals, cycling machines, ergs, treadmills and such - I see racks, stocks, iron maidens, branding irons and other inventive torture implements. 😱
I thought you meant lifting engines out !
Gym, yes. Dont forget wearing your vest back to front while watching yourself in a mirror slowly lifting a dumb bell ........
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I would be inclined to use oil in UJ axles, as you have new components.
My thinking is that if you use the FWD facility a lot, then oil will lubricate the UJs better, but if only occasionally, then Oneshot will be fine.
For CV axles, then Oneshot all the way
Just my take, which is obviously the correct one 😄
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I thought the later genuine LR stuff was all poly ? Im sure I read that somewhere ?
My experience of Polybushes (Orange) is that they seem to wear the metal on all the eyes. Other than that, the ride quality seems fine.
I have had Super pro (NOT Superflex) bushes on non LR vehicles, and IMO they are better quality and come with Stainless sleeves (and silicone grease) rather than the plated steel items supplied by Polybush.......... unless they have changed spec ?
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Speedy cables in Wales always used to be THE place to go. I see they still exist.
Used them several times for custom stuff, but admittedly that was 30 plus years ago
V8 ARP Head stud stockists?
in International Forum
Posted
Thats a surprise. I would have gone to Real Steel.
I do think however, they are winding down on the Rover V8 though.