smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Thats a Hayter 21, or possibly an Osprey. If you look at the engine cowling just above the spark plug, or possibly behind the air filter, you will find stamped (not a sticker) "Model" "Type" and "Code" The first two digits of the code number tell you the year of engine manufacture, which will date the machine if it still has its original engine. It looks like it has.
The first two digits of Model tell you the engine capacity in Cubic inches, but they were (and still are I believe) rated in old fashioned Horsepower.
You will have to quote this number for any spare parts for the engine.
The normal things that stop these are a worn out cylinder bore (aluminium). Head gasket gone. No spark. I would have though it would have been converted to electronic module by now, but might still have points ? Fixed point is the condenser. Flywheel key sheared which alters ignition timing. Carburettor full of carp, either from fuel tank or water where its been standing idle.
Check for spark first, then clean out the carb.
Used to do this for a living..........
As Steve said, if this has got the rotary cutter (alloy disc) NEVER EVER use it without steel toecap boots. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
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How big does the shield need to be, and how big is the gap ?
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10 hours ago, western said:
I must be the odd one out here, only got one vehicle my 110, use it every day & for rally recovery work, I don't know how you all manage with more than one or two vehicles. I have enough to do with just the 110 & day job.
Ah yes, but busy people can always fit something else in, its only lazy people who claim they are too busy and have no time ! 😆
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12 hours ago, Jezzer said:
I use one to run my above ground pool in the summer works brilliantly the others powering radiators in my shed
Do you have tropical fish then ? 😲
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2 hours ago, reb78 said:
No the two door 1800 saloon. I would say unfortunately its not the 2300 In Firenza shape but dad bought this new in 1974 so I love it for what it is and the restoration will be to as new with no mods. But... I do agree, the coupe shape was lovely.
Still like it though, can you even still get the panels ? I see it has the earlier wings with the higher ridge along the top. Goodyear Grand Prix S tyres ?
Good luck with it, not many around now, not that there were in the first place.
My Rover has not been on the road since 1979. Bought new set of Avon Turbosteel VR crossplies for it 1996, cost £600 then. Was going to do a quick recommissioning. Never got round to it. Never fitted the tyres. Now they are too old to use
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Wouldnt they be a bit too close to the exhaust manifolds though ?
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1 hour ago, reb78 said:
A 1974 Vauxhall Magnum - full strip down and restoration needed (it does run though!).
Is it the coupe, like the Firenza ? Always wanted one. Matt black, big wheels, Chevy V8.
Actually all this confession is quite comforting in a way. I always got the impression that everyone else had a running Land Rover except me !
So its no shame really. Ten years disuse is the norm !
Too many projects certainly dilutes your effort.
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I have installed Freelander 1 Webasto Thermo Top C on my 06 Renault Master, 04Astra Dti and am doing my 04 Vauxhall Combo at the moment. I did the Master because we use it for camping, and the two Vauxhalls, primarily to defrost the windows because they take forever to warm up, and I have to say it has been worth every penny. They all work via a cheap wireless remote, so I can look out of the window in the morning, see that its icy, and turn it on from indoors with the fob. 15 mins later, all de iced and nice and warm inside, plus of course, an easier start. In fact, after having one, NOT having one is like going back to the stone age.
You need the heater itself, the dosing pump, either a separate fuel tank or means to take the fuel from the vehicles tank or lines, and a means to switch it on and off.
You could use a simple switch inside the vehicle, but I prefer a remote control.
I use these, and have found them thoroughly reliable. No need to pay more.
You then have to work out where and how to site the heater, plumb it in, which will easy on a Land Rover, and connect up the fuel feed and electrics.
You may need to make some brackets and modify the exhaust depending where you decide to locate it.
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I am so glad its not just me ! I have a one owner Rover P5B Coupe in the garage that I took a spark plug out of in September 2010, and have not touched it since. It is now almost buried in assorted vehicle related stuff. My V8 90 SW has sat on the drive outside since I took the engine out in 2013. I was/am ? going to do an engine conversion, but due to there always being something else to do, have not got round to it. Will I ever do it ? Who knows, but I suspect probably not.
I have got 2 vans and a car, plus SWMBOs Jimny, which I do all necessary (and unnecessary )work on, chiefly because I dont trust any garage to do things properly, as I have been in the Motor trade, and also because I cant afford to pay for it either.
As I am getting older, I am getting less and less inclined, especially when its cold (and too hot) and then there is the failing eyesight, and the fact that I just cant do physically what I used to do.
Time is the main problem though, got a house to build, stables to build, blah blah.
Still, seriously, a guys got to have something to do. Whether you actually do it or not is irrelevant. Can you actually imagine having NOTHING to do ? That would be even worse than lacking enthusiasm.
A life of wandering around the shops , spa weekends, and watching football ................ NOOOOOOOOOO
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
'74 Pontiac 455 rust bucket money pit and a '67 Mustang 302 power hood straight from inland Florida original paint etc. no rust , no issues at all - apart from selling it ...Doh
Have you still got the Mustang then ? I thought there would be a queue round the block for it !
Had a 66 Mustang 289 also with power hood, back in 1984, but it had been here since new, so not quite so good. More filler than metal, and had some BAD body mods. Thought it was great at the time. Engine was great, but spent the few months I had it pop riveting plates underneath and covering with lots of underseal. Someone made me an offer I couldnt understand, so sold it.
A mate had a Starsky and Hutch Torino, 76 ? With a 400 engine that he spent a fortune on. The car broke in half across the floorpan due to rust. I bought the engine off him and had it until year before last, for one of those projects that never materialized !
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No one had an American car then ...............
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Thanks for that, it all makes sense of the problem. They are actually SWMBOs brothers, and he wastes loads of money trying to save money.
I have not been back to look at yet, but I am sure this will be the cause.
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See the video on the LED topic ............
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A friend has two Disco 1 facelift 300Tdi Autos. Both are semi derelict and are not run often, but now one has a running problem.
Now, I am unfamiliar with Discos, so I dont know where everything is, and how it works, so bear with me.
Its been twenty odd years since I have touched a 300 Tdi, and they were in Defenders, so they had a cable operated throttle direct to the fuel pump, but both these Discos appear to have no physical connection to the pump at all (that I can see)so I assume they are completely fly by wire. Is this correct ?
When the ignition is turned on, there is a "coarse" buzzing noise from the pump area on both of them. Is this normal ?
One of them starts and runs normally, and sounds just as I remember, but the other does not. The diesel clack clack clack sounds subdued. Less sharp than normal. It seems to idle just fine, but smokes a bit, which it never did before (it has not been started for about two years) However, when the throttle pedal is pressed, it seems to semi misfire and smokes A LOT, and will only get up to just over 2000 RPM before the check engine light comes on. The smokes looks blueish which suggests oil burning, yet it smells distinctly of unburnt diesel and stings your eyes.
Have checked the air filter for mouse nests etc, disconnected the flap type AFM electrically, and then removed the air hose between it and the turbo inlet, which made no difference at all.
Then disconnected the intercooler to inlet manifold hose which had a fair bit of oil in it, but again, this made no difference to the running OR the smoke.
ISTR the 300 had a problem with lift pumps, but I can see this might cause lack of revs, but surely not cause the smoke. Or could it ? Could the timing belt have slipped ? Is it likely ?
The smoke is similar to a common rail electronic injector failure, but can a 300 Tdi injector fail like this ?
I cannot offhand think of anything else it can be. One thing though, it was run on chip fat/vegetable oil for a time, so I wondered if it was possible that some of this has seperated and congealed inside the pump ?
Other that these things, anyone got any ideas ?
Do they have a diagnostic socket ? If so, where is it ?
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Its sad though, isnt it, that as time goes on, you have to think twice before helping someone.
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Yes. Happy Christmas everyone, under the circumstances.
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How old is the Honda ?
I run old Vauxhalls, and I have done this without problem. These can have a choice of injectors, but if the numbers on the injectors are all the same (a set)and are the same as the originals, you shouldnt have a problem.
Im not 100% on this, but I thought this coding was only for later piezo injectors.
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55 minutes ago, jeremy996 said:
How did the insurance claim turn out?
One of the reasons I have legal cover is to ensure that if my insurance company turns out to be spineless, I'll get my day in Court. Just the threat has worked so far.
I don't actually know for sure. The guy claimed that I had stopped without adequate warning and the towrope I HAD SUPPLIED was too short for the purpose (It wasn't) I wrote back to them and heard no more. I had protected no claims in any case, but assumed they had rejected it.
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I had an insurance claim against me about 15 years ago for helping someone whose car was blocking a junction. I towed them clear, but despite my warnings that the brakes would have no power assistance, the guy still ran into the back of the Land Rover, breaking the grille and denting the bumper and bonnet.
I will not tow anyone now unless I know them.
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Red winches adaptor is carp. I looked at one for mine, but it "clocks" the transfer box anticlockwise in relation to the gearbox, so you either end up with the brake drum and output higher and nearer the chassis ......... too near for me, and increasing the propshaft angles, OR having to cant the engine over. Maybe Ok in a challenge truck that you dont mind tearing down every other week, but IMO no good for a road vehicle.
Also, I do not like shortening rear propshafts on a SWB vehicle, and both the Surf and Redwinch options make the whole ensemble too long for a SWB
UZ engine is not a monster of torque unless it has forced induction, so is not too harsh on the mechanicals. Very reliable, powerful and smooth though, but unlike the Rover V8, was not made to be dunked in windscreen high water.
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I have a couple of V5s for long dead vehicles, and both of them state "Manual", but that is not in a separate dedicated "box", it is listed at the top in the Make and Type section.
Insurance Co need to know, but are unlikely to triple your premium
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Large converter will only fit the GEMS type gearbox oil pump. NOT the later THOR type
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20 hours ago, Arjan said:
"As a solution, I have decided to get rid of the Fiat"
The Mrs. loves a Fiat Panda 4x4.......
Should i tell her ?
What I didnt like was the jiggly ride. Result of SWB and hard suspension for a heavy load. Other than that, and being just a bit TOO small for my needs, It was great.
Lot of niggles though, but what has put me off in the end, is the potential expensive problems. EGR, DPF, very expensive injectors, and worst of all is that they suffer from a LOT of timing chain failures, which usually needs a replacement engine.
The upper front suspension mounts fail a lot too, as do the Panda, so I understand.
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I also have a Foxwell scanner, which I bought for Freelander 1, and I can recommend it.
It will read and erase basic generic OBD 2 stuff on most makes, BUT, doesnt want to know the 64 plate Fiat Fiorino I have. Apparently Fiat are bit different to most, so would need the dedicated programme.
As a solution, I have decided to get rid of the Fiat.
Silicone vs rubber hose
in International Forum
Posted
Probably been covered many times before, but I cant find anything offhand ..........
Whats the consensus about using silicone hose over rubber, for heater hoses and the like ?
I have never used them myself, but I gather they are "better", but from what I can find they become floppy when hot, come in shiny carpy colours for the bling enthused, and do not grip hosetails as well as rubber, and can blow off under pressure.
As they become floppy, do they then kink if the radius is not so gentle ?
Do they form a "set" after a few heating cycles ?
Anyone had them "blow off" (no sniggering) under pressure, without tighten them down ridiculously. I prefer to use the modern spring clamps and dont like "Jubilee" type clips. Especially on smaller hose sizes.
Are they worth the extra expense in the long term ?