smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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9 minutes ago, smallfry said:
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Right. The RRC/Disco/P38 4HP22/24 gearbox will bolt straight onto the Jag bellhousing and TC. If you want a 4HP24, only the Thor type will do. The input shaft on the GEMS type is too big and long Other than that, that part of it is easy. BUT. On the RR/LR models, the gearbox is "clocked" clockwise looking from the rear. This will mean leaning the engine over in order to keep the transmission in the correct position for mountings and propshaft angles.
Other than that, you could modify the bellhousing to suit. I have a couple here should you need one.
AJ6 and 16 are good engines. couldnt tell you the sizes or weight or how they can be run standalone. One of the Jag fora (what what) maybe ?
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When I worked in the Agri/Plant industry starting, even in the cold was not normally a problem unless there was something wrong with the engine, and I am talking about 7 litre and upwards 6 and 8 cylinder diesels.
There has always been some inherent problem with the Rover V8. ISTM that no matter what fuel and ignition system it has, they have never been good starters, and always seem to need a fair bit of churning before they will start.
I had an American Ford 400 V8 (6.6) engine with 10.5 CR that started a LOT easier than any Rover V8 I have had, and have a Lexus V8 here that only needs flick of the key to start
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I cant see that it would be more difficult to start than a six cylinder diesel in cold weather.
Have you got bell wire feeding one of those "Kings new clothes" high torque starters ?
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Company next door to us regularly has a courier come from Leeds to Kent to collect stuff. Could ask them if you like, although it will not be free, then I can store it here in Kent.
If thats any good to you ?
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I have got a Foxwell scanner for JLR products. Annoying really as I was at Tunworth on Saturday morning collecting a sink.
Could post it to you if you are not in a hurry. Now I dont have the Freelander, I dont need it on immediate standby !
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Also, did you know that the Wolseley 1500 (and Riley) was a Morris Minor with different panels and trim ?
So the drum brakes will be the same ! Interesting isnt it ?
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Looks great ! and no more "hands feeling dirty" either !
All you need now is one for the gearbox, and the transfer box, and the axles !
I must say that period accessories are far superior to todays tat, and likely to last a lot longer. Remember that unless it says "Turbo" on the box, it wont be much good 😄
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They are left hand thread on those ! 😆
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Sums it up well really. A large estate car that can go off road. It is NOT a utility vehicle at all, but I guess thats the market they are aiming for, leaving the utility market to thems that make vans.
I agree about the styling, such a shame they couldnt have given a nod to its heritage (which has been abandoned) and done something similar to the early Mini one and the Fiat 500.
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OP was asking about BRAND NEW vehicles
As has been said, Australian interior would be more challenging.
TBH I cant think of anything modern I would want to attempt it with, in a situation where there was little hope of rescue.
I just dont trust the reliance on electronics
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What gearbox are using ? If its Auto I dont think it will go in easily using the series front with the transfer box in standard position, but if manual, you can shorten the engine/gearbox combo somewhat.
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Its always handy to have a spare engine ( or 7 ) for many reasons 😄
As has been said, Rover V8 is simple and relatively inexpensive provided you dont go silly with trying to get extra oomph
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I have literally just sold my second Freelander 1 TD4. While I really liked driving them, both were problematic in various ways. NOT major mechanical issues, but left me stranded several times.
Would I have another ? No way.
Cant comment on Freelander 2 except that an acquaintance had one and really liked it, but the engine packed up, so it was sold as spares or repair.
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I have bought a fair few car based things from America over the years. Never had a problem really.
Even paying the duty it still worked out less expensive, but the exchange rate is not so favourable now, and also, C&E seem to be checking parcels a lot more. I guess due to the massive increase in international personal/private individual commerce ?
You can get away with some of the declared value if the seller will do it, but please dont think the officers are stupid !
Do you have a friend with a big suitcase ?
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There is NOTHING that I can see on the pictured vehicle that is original. No body panels or any of the interior. Disc braked rear axle.
Where would a body that good come from I wonder.
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If it will not move with a five foot bar, I suspect that the bolt might have been put in with bearing lock because of a stripped thread by a PO. I have probably stripped and rebuilt at least 50 Rover V8s, and I cannot recall any bolts failing to come out, except for the water pump and front cover ones.
Sadly, I fear you are going to have to remove the engine, and carefully drill the head of the bolt off, remove the head, and apply a lot of heat to the remaining bolt shaft, which hopefully will then come out.
Dont know if the thread in the block will survive the experience
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Does the 300 have thrust buttons on top of the valve stems ? If so, are they all there ?
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Heavy plant and tractors have a centrifuge unit before the air gets to a filter, as do combine harvesters, and you will struggle to find a more dusty environment than that.
I have used K&N replacement filters in all my vehicles for 25 years or more (mostly road) and all have done a lot of miles, 300k or more, and I certainly DONT clean them every year.
There is no doubt that paper elements filter best, but not for long before they start to restrict airflow. Oil bath probably best for you if you can fit it in, but if not, then a centrifuge before a K&N in a standard filter box IMO
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I would check the fuel system again. The symptoms do sound like either sediment in the system, or maybe even a hose internal collapse. Could even be a faulty filter or pump ?
Is the fuel filter an inline one ? If so, has it been installed the right way round, as some of these flow better one way than the other. I would fit ANOTHER new quality one anyway. Do not refit one if you do find one is installed the wrong way round.
Is it possible to run the fuel pump independently, and with hose connected at the engine end to discharge into a bucket, or even back into the fuel filler, to see if the flow peters out ?
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The Thor engine has a 150 amp alternator, AND on the V8 its nice and high up, out of the way, probably the only good reason to have a Rover V8
Freelander TD4 also has a 150amp unit, but with a different mounting arrangement.
To my simple mind, would make more sense to avoid the complexity of two alternators, and have a solar panel or two instead.
Or maybe a little generator, which is very useful for other things too.
I drove my Renault Master back from Cumbria to Kent at night with a genny running in the back after the alternator died on the way up.
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7 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
My mate builds replacement Triumph TR chassis. When he spoke to the DVSA about it, all he needed to do was get the chassis approved by an suitably competent structural/mechanical. engineer.
He did this and then also got all his chassis types TUV approved - expensive for 7 different chassis variations - but worth it
As he is manufacturing and selling them, surely you would have to do this in any case ?
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7 hours ago, Daan said:
This is indeed the problem. I went to great trouble to get the Q plate to make mine legal, but I have to say that with so many people completely ignoring the rules and getting away with it, why did I bother?
Makes you wonder, doesnt it. There seems to be no consistency either, depending on which official you ask
7 minutes ago, smallfry said:I would love to build a 100 inch with either a cut and shut chassis, or possibly a brand new one, but the process bothers me, and I am also concerned about the rate of road tax they might apply
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6 hours ago, Daan said:
Yes, I think it is. You have just added something, rather than changed, if that makes sense.
Up in our top field I have an old series on a coil sprung Designa chassis. It has not been used for 12 years because I stupidly took it for an MOT test at my local VOSA depot at Gillingham in Kent, as my usual tester was on holiday, and it was only a mile from where I lived. I was told then that it needed to be Q plated, and as I would not pay for IVA test, was easier to take it off the road. Its a 79 model, so was NOT tax exempt at the time.
Last year I went in again to have a chat in person about tyres, and the age of them, and as an aside asked about the Series again, and was told that it IS a modified chassis, so would still have to have an IVA and a Q plate.
As the coil converted chassis involves "adding" spring perches and an extra crossmember and holes for a Defender type steering box, it should be OK by your reasoning (and mine), but apparently not. So therefore, under the same rules, adding P38 steering box mounts also constitutes a modified chassis, does it not ?
t IMO
Freelander TD4 also has a 150amp unit, but with a different mounting arrangement.
Automatically different! AJ16???
in International Forum
Posted
The easy solution for the gearbox rotation would be to cut out the mating face from the Jag bellhousing then "turn" it in the correct position and weld it.
Hard to visualise without pictures, but fairly cheap and easy I am doing the same thing for my Lexus conversion.
Its turned about five degreesish, but I have made up a jig, so I could put the Jag bellhousing on it and tell you by exactly how much. This would keep the engine in its correct position.