smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I would always try to use an OE unit if you can cobble it in. From what I have seen, aftermarket/custom rads have hefty fins and tubes more suited to an intercooler IMO.
I have got a Lexus LS400 one here, which produces far more HP than a Rover, and its only about 20mm thick.
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As I see it, all this is purely academic. I dont see it really has much to do with chassis shortening, lengthening, altering the suspension, having an atomic reactor turbine powerplant etc. What its REALLY all about is tax exemption, or evasion if you like.
There are many "classic" cars running about which are basically just an old bodyshell on vastly different running gear, modified monocoque and all, which under the rules is illegal. I do not recall EVER seeing one on a Q plate, and I have never heard of anyone being pulled up over it. I cannot offhand think of any other vehicle than a Land Rover that can be so comprehensively altered. The trouble is, is that it is all on show. With other cars it is not so obvious other that maybe the paint job and wheels.
IMO what has caused all this, was/still is Land Rover owners blatantly running much newer (and obviously so) vehicles on tax exempt log books. There is one near me, which according to the reg, is a 1972 Series 3 LWB, but is actually a 2015 Puma with sawtooth? wheels and lots of accessories in shiny black paint, and its been like this for at least three years. I had a sneaky look at the chassis number when it was parked in a supermarket car park, and its proper number is still there.
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A few years ago I had a Triumph Vitesse and fitted them. I had the bonnet up doing something or other and noticed that one of the front ones had a kink in it. Like you, I had no idea how it happened, and being a road car, I couldnt work it out, and though it quite concerning. I have never had a rubber hose go in forty odd years of driving
I changed them back to standard rubber type, but I did notice how easily the inner could be damaged
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7 hours ago, paime said:
It was more the washing of the T-Wash off the chassis after i'm done that i was thinking about but then again i'm not sure where i've picked that up from!
Is that this stuff here: https://www.bilthamber.com/etchweld ? My knowledge of coatings is pretty limited and i'm terrified i get it wrong and over-paint with an incompatible top coat causing crazing or a lack of adhesion. Are there any dual systems from the same manufacturer out there?
I have not noticed any long term damage to the concrete hard standing after using T wash, but then I have always rinsed it off with a pressure washer and washed the concrete at the same time. I guess it might stain if left, but I dont really know.
Thats the stuff. Being a weld through primer, it can be used on things that get hot, like gearboxes and Rover V8 engines. I use it on all the welded joints on exhaust systems, and it seems to stay there. Used it on the beads and rear of alloy wheels after removing corrosion, and it lasts for years. Also as an etch primer on Land Rover alloy bodywork prior to painting with two pack or cellulose.
I spilt some on the plastic rear bumper of my van, and it is still there after a few years. It CAN be removed with cellulose thinners, but then so can most primers, and it can be overcoated with most types of paint. Chassis really needs to be overcoated with a "soft" paint and not Hammerite, POR15, or powder coat as in my experience they all chip easily
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Powder coat chips easily, can cause corrosion if moisture gets beneath it, and can peel off in large flakes if that happens. That shouldnt be a problem with a galv chassis, but ............
T wash and primer. I really like Bilt Hamber Etchweld, and use it for most things, then overcoat with paint of your choice, but NOT Hammerite or POR15
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Actually, it does not say a "new and identical" chassis. That would mean that pattern chassis such as Richards and Sheilder etc are not acceptable, as they are NOT identical in construction to the original.
Also, to me, as is clearly worded, that you CAN have a spanking new coil sprung chassis for a series model from Designa, as it IS "a new and unmodified, direct from the manufacturer" item.
All of this "argument" is down to how we can each interpret rules which SHOULD be clear and concise, but are anything but !
Cut 'n' shut is NOT ringing. When I worked in a bodyshop years ago, we did many, and it was common practice as an economical way to repair damaged vehicles, at a time when used vehicles were worth a lot more than they are nowadays.
Cut 'n' shut got a bad rep because of the way that a lot of them were done.
Ringing is the practice of changing the identity of a stolen vehicle.
As Bowie says, its not worth the blood pressure 😄
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Why not extend the bench over the compressor ? NEVER got enough bench space !
Mind you, most of mine is covered with stuff, so there is still no room to work
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Try repeatedly pressing the unlock button on the fob. Both the ones I have had seem to go out of sync quite often.
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12 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said:
I think nobody has answered the original question. How much is it worth. As a chassis and as a rolling chassis?
As it legally cannot be used unless for a purely off road toy, or is re registered, effectively not a lot, unless it has had NO I.D. stamped on it
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2 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
I think you guys may be misreading the word 'original'. I believe this means 'type' not the physical item it left the factory with. The rational for this is, that same page also states original against the engine/axles/transmission and steering. If we were to adopt the position that 'original' meant the physical item from the factory, then anyone with a replacement engine (same engine, just a different engine number), gearbox (same gearbox, bur recon), different shocks/springs (longer shocks, different spring rate) and HD shafts/different diff would be at risk of a Q plate. And I think clearly this isn't the case.
Its all a farce in any case. What they actually mean is "original" as in original specification. If you read the actual wording its quite clear, so "interpreting" or bending the words so suit what you have, or want to do, is wrong. Therefore ALL changes of engines, fuel type, gearboxes, axles, etc etc, P38 steering boxes, suspension lifts etc, fall foul of the wording.
The way its worded, all you can legally do is bolt on accessories..
Therefore, virtually every Land Rover on the road (this means you) and almost every classic car, should have a "Q" plate and pay tax at whatever rate they choose to apply.
Remember, its all about the money !
Personally, I see no problem with using a pre enjoyed chassis, or altering it even. provided it has been done to a proper standard, and has not been stolen
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6 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
This raises an interesting question.... On the fuel return pipe into the tank, is it best practice to put pipe on it so it drains smoothly to the bottom of the tank or do you just leave it to drip/spray where the metal pipe enters the too of the tank?
Either way, I need to go and get a piece of pipe out of my tank because I was not aware they're not submersible, the question is what to replace it with.
I would extend it to the bottom of the tank, if only because it might make a dribbling tap noise when the tank is emptyish (which will be most of the time running a V8), which may be distracting and annoying to some degree.
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If you are a wealthy man, like Fridge, you need hose to SAE 30R10, which is twinwall for in tank use. IF you can find any, it seems 'kin expensive. Boat stuff maybe ?
Or, if you are clever, like what I am, you can use SINGLE WALL hose, made from NBR material, with cotton overbraid. I have used it for years in diesel tanks with no problems.
They advertise it for use in petrol fuel injection systems, so I see no reason it would not "in tank" with petrol.
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Bit late on this, but we have a temporaryish lean to covering what is laughably called a patio, its 11m x 5.5m, and I bought GRP corrugated sheet from a company near Foston ? prison. They deal in seconds and end of batches etc. There are so many different profiles though, so make sure there is enough of the same batch (or similar) plus your existing batten spacing has to be considered with the lengths available. I will try and find the phone number.
Covered the lean to for £300, plus some spare, and its very hard to break, unlike the crappy polycarbonate stuff, and has good light transmission, and certainly makes a difference to the temperature underneath it.
The only downside with all these coverings though, is condensation, which will drip if the roof slope is very shallow.
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Ford used to fit copper plated manifold to downpipe nuts years ago, and they were a bar steward to get off after a while.
I have a huge tub of Rocol J166 anti seize compound which I have used with success, with like Coppaslip but much more durable.
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So easy just to cut the handbrake cable.
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Not painted probably, or not the correct sort of paint.
When I worked as a paint sprayer at a main dealers in the late seventies, I often had to take radiators for repair. No aluminium back then !
We used two different repairers, and both of them used to immerse the repaired rads in a paint tank. It was always matt black and quite thick, and definately NOT cellulose.
All sadly gone now
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4 hours ago, Blanco said:
Just on that one, I did see somewhere a reference to using a 4.0 TC in the 4HP24 for BMW diesel applications, how well it works I don't know, but worth a try in the first instance. Also it seems the market might be changing a bit, Sussex Auto's seem to offer something of a build service, and as I have family in OZ I might check out a couple of builders there, they are quite used to 4WD conversions down there.🙃
Sussex Autos do nothing in the way of altering TCs, I spoke to them about it a couple of months ago, They will recondition them though. However, by the time you have paid forit, plus shipping and duty, you might as well buy an Ashcroft kit.
4.0 TC will not fit inside the P38 bellhousing. Been there tried that. The later M57s have a slightly bigger bellhousing bolt pattern, so the vehicles that are fitted with the engine have bigger bellhousings to suit, but none of them will fit a 4HP22/24 as standard.
That leaves you with using a "Gems" 4HP24 and its large (best) TC for the job...... which is what Ed Poore has ........ and a Ashcroft Transmissions M57 adaptor kit .
ALL 😄 you have to do then is engine mounts, exhaust, intercooler, wiring for the engine etc etc.
Plus a controller for the gearbox. Somebody on here (Bowie69 I think ?) said one could be made for little money, but as I have no idea when it comes to electronics, I wouldnt know how.
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3 hours ago, Bigj66 said:
Out of curiosity why the LT230?
Id be interested in an electronic box that used hand controls and could be coupled to a V8 but I’m not sure if that’s possible? Maybe in the post-Thor Landrovers?
Not a problem at all. Just use a 4HP24, they are all electronic, or a 4HP22E. Couple it to a Compushift, which Ashcroft Transmissions sell, plus a suitable shifter, and you are done.
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Not that I could ever afford one in any case, but to me, it just looks like all the other SUVs out there, But lets be honest, its not really a utility vehicle at all. It could never be used as such, except maybe by those who have money falling out of their bottoms, in which case it wouldnt matter it it was damaged. If it IS damaged, its basically ruined, and the value of it will be kicked into touch, which would never have been a big problem with an old Defender.
Can you imagine when trading it in, or the lease is up, some geezer looking down the sides of it in the light checking for any ripples or blemishes, and how it would be marked down, and your charges escalating !
No, to me, its just a car now, just like all the others, its probably very nice to drive, but full of ultimately problematical JLR electronics. Faceless, no character, nothing to warrant a second glance. Despite the fact it may be better off road in certain situations that the proper Defender, but would you actually use it for that if you were footing the bills ? Well would you ?
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On 6/24/2020 at 9:32 PM, neil110 said:
red hylomar is rubbish, always was.
And so is the blue ........ In my experience, if I come across it on an engine, it always a sign of a p**s poor rebuild, or been bodged up.
Wellseal is the only sealer worth using for dressing gaskets, and well fitting flanges, and proper RTV sealer for gasketless things like sumps, which Hylomar is not.
I do feel for you, you do not seem to be having much joy with this vehicle
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I knew two people personally that have died from it. One 79 and the other 48, so please pardon me for NOT welcoming the slackening of social distancing.
I am happy to stay out of the way for the time being.
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Another guy of facebook can sort you out regarding engine and gearbox, and probably cruise control as well, but its the P38 transfer box that will be more difficult, as not too many people want to do the conversion ......... pay for it, I mean ! Max Wiseman is the man, but they aint cheap !
Thing is with adaptors and plates is, by the time you have done all the research and bought all the stuff to do it, plus the time, its probably cheaper to buy a commercially made kit.
Easiest way would be to use a 4HP24, your existing bellhousing on an earlier engine, and get a speciality torque converter from the US of A. No one over here seems able or willing to modify a torque converter here, let alone guarantee it. Trust me I have tried.
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8 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
I had this problem when I fitted a latter serp engine to my TR7. Although I'd guess the bonnet (hood
) line has more space in a Stag than a TR7.
John Eales supplied a new bracket and tensioner, I believe the same as a Morgan Plus 8 would have had, which moved the alternator to the other side of the engine and much lower.
Have just been looking at the website and prices 😲😲😲
And then RPI ........
So much money for so little gain.
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Hi Terry
Assume you mean Washington in the U.S. ?
Do you have the water pump and pulley, crank pulley etc.
Problem with this is that the Disco/Range Rover has the Alternator and water pump mounted higher up, so fitted to the Stag might foul the bonnet ?
My friend did one of these, gotta be getting on for thirty years ago, and he used a Rover P6 engine, which has a lower mounted and shorter water pump and alternator.
They didnt have aircon though, although I suspect the few U.S. spec models did.
Rover SD1 v8 had low mounted similar but longer water pump, and an even lower mounted alternator and power steering pump.
I have probably got all this stuff somewhere, except maybe aircon mount.
All hard to find nowand fetches good money, so if you can get away with the height of the Disco items, they will be easier to source.
Got no pics though, but there should be loads on the internet.
) line has more space in a Stag than a TR7.
The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
I especially like the way the hangers are welded !
The worrying thing is, that there are a lot of Land Rovers running around like this.