smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I have only looked because you mentioned it ………..
I guess they will go nicely with your beige, elastic waistband slacks you got from an ad in the Sunday papers !
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4 hours ago, bushwhacker said:
Not sure if anyone is still interested in the plsma cutter. 12 in my local as of 15:00hrs today, but I am in Northern Ireland.
I would have one, but not practical as I am in Kent. FFS
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I haven't actually looked it up, but I think Mr Badger is using a HVLP air pump thingy (technical term) Its like a Hoover in reverse, so it blows warm air, so no moisture trap is necessary.
If one IS using a moisture trap, DONT leave it laying on its side on the floor, hang it properly, and DO actually empty the bloody thing
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3 hours ago, Badger110 said:
I’ve not used a laquer on it yet, I was considering this;
this seems ok. I’ll flatten what I’ve done and another coat then apply this.
do I apply the laquer when the final coat has just been applied?
Its not a make I have heard of, but its cheap ! Not saying there is anything wrong with it though.
Your basecoat does look a bit spotty, but it might look better after flatting, but DO NOT expect a lacquer to hide any "blemishes", as it will not.
The basecoats will always look a bit lacklustre in any case, its the lacquer that brings it to life and gives the gloss.
DO NOT apply the lacquer before the basecoat is properly dry. You have no doubt seen cars around with peeling bonnets and the like ? This is caused by applying the lacquer too soon, as most lacquers have a different composition.
Allow at least 24 hours before applying lacquer, and preferably longer if the garage is not heated. At this time of year you need some heat just to make sure the surfaces are not at all damp, as this also can cause lack of gloss AND peeling. I always try to do this sort of stuff in the summer if possible because of this. However, if its too hot, this can also cause problems.
Also, IF the lacquer should go wrong or be unsatisfactory for any reason, do not overcoat with a different product or another brand too soon, as it can sometimes react very badly (crackle finish) if the products are not compatible.
Sorry if this is a bit "Sucking eggs, a guide for Grandmothers"
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Paint is not atomizing properly. However, I do not know why it should get worse halfway through a pot, unless it is not properly mixed, or maybe rapid hardener that has gone off ?
What sort and make of paint is it ? What thinner/hardener ratio are you using ?
I would try smallest needle first, and maybe more thinners. Maybe you are too close. ?
Difficult to help without knowing more.
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14 minutes ago, Red90 said:
If you perceive something to be what it is not, you are brainwashed.
That's Marketing, isn't it ?
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I have still not seen one on the road yet. I have however noticed an awful lot of Freelander 1s around lately
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The "new" Mini is not British at all. It has Union flags on it to capitalise on the British icon that the original Mini became.
Summed up by the stickers often seen in original Minis...…" True Brit, not German *hit"
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Must have pinched a wire or punctured with a screw putting the dash back.
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I used to paint cars for a living, but that was years ago. I have tried HVLP, but could not get a decent finish out of the gun. Using water based paints I think it would be OK, but as they blow warm air, I feel it will start to evaporate the thinner before the paint has time to settle on the surface.
Not really had the opportunity to experiment...….. unless someone else is paying 😄
Must pay particular attention to the manufacturers data sheet !
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A few years ago I had a similar issue with ex neighbours. They reported to the council that I was running a car repair business from home. Man turned up one day with a notebook and camera. Took notes and photos before knocking and challenging me, going on about how it was against the law ? and how I may be fined, liable for VAT, blah blah blah.
Told him that if he bothered to check, he would find that all the vehicles were registered in my name, and had been for some time, and that the complainant had an axe to grind, and was wasting his time. Should have seen his little face light down ! Shut his notebook and went, and I never heard any more about it.
All this started because I declined to weld up his rusty Sierra.
Good idea about removing the number plates though, and in the light of this, it might be an idea to take some photos and post them somewhere as proof.
I don't imagine for a minute there will be any grovelling. You will be lucky to even get an apology.
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I still have not seen one on the road yet.
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What do you want from it though. Is it to pre warm the vehicle and de ice windows, or do you actually want to sleep in as a camper type thing ?
If its the former, you really need one to warm to engine coolant, as this makes starting easier, and help minimise engine wear. They will also de iceand pre warm the interior as they can switch the heater fan on.
Warm air one will only warm the interior and de ice.
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Having had two TD4s and a Rover 400 with that engine...……...….....
BMW might be a bit more powerful and refined maybe, but better ? Not a chance. Less reliable due to endless electronic problems and likes to drink its own oil due to poor crankcase ventilation, and poor IMO turbo oil drain design.
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Could it be a sign of a split or holed diaphragm ?
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What about a box for the nuts and bolts left over ?
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As I thought, all gone here too.
Typical of Lidl service though, I asked a member of staff if they had any more out the back. she shrugged and said her "English not good. I should ring customer service.
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1 hour ago, Badger110 said:
Does anyone have a measurement for the opening on the sloping style early/military ones compared to the series?
Not offhand but BOTH pieces of glass will slide on the military/early sloping glass type, but IIRC only the front piece slides on the series type
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I don't think you will have any problems. I also think MOT exemption is absolutely ridiculous. I know some testers can be somewhat over zealous, but I would want to know if my vehicle was needing attention that I had missed.
Seems that they make all these rules, and then contradict themselves. I think its more about ar5es being covered and responsibility should anything happen.
I had a conversation over the counter at my local VOSA/DVSA depot about tyres, their age, and changing them at six years. They checked all the available information and came to the conclusion that provided that they had enough tread, they had no view ! Not even about perishing. Seems that the "recommendations" were from those with a vested interest in selling new ones.
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Later FL1 TD4s had the IAT sensor in the inlet pipe at the front of the engine. The wires at the plug are prone to corrosion and break. I ran mine for a while with it disconnected, but it did not seem to make any difference to the running. It threw up a code, but nolights on the dash.
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They are a good price. I paid more than that for a pair of original 90 two piece, lift up handle doors.
For the pedantic, the early 90/110 doors had sloping sliding glass, and were made of aluminium. Which is essentially the same as the "military" tops.
Have to say that I have always preferred the sliding windows.
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A tin of carb cleaner to clean threads prior to threadlocking.
I buy clear PVC tube of the correct bore to cut into pieces for covering the threads of the conrod bolts to protect the crank journals from damage.
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I shall attempt to avail myself of one, but I will lay money on both my local stores will not have any !
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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Must resist... must resist...
Your powers are weak old man...……….😁
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Oil is a very complicated subject, and yet very simple at the same time. It does not matter how much it costs, or whether it is mineral, semi, or fully synthetic. What matters is that it meets the correct specification for the particular engine, and is changed at the correct intervals (or more often) for the usage and ambient temperatures.
There is generally nothing to be gained by using expensive race spec oils in an engine that does not require it, unless of course you believe the hype and like wasting money.
Using a modern spec low viscosity oils (C3 E5 E7 etc) can actually be detrimental to an engine of older design. Its all about clearances and tolerances, crankcase ventilation systems, cat converters, DPF, and so on.
I have always found that an engine sounds mechanically better after an oil change. I don't know if that is actual or psychological though
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DIY Spraying Kit?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I used to paint cars for a living a long time ago. Late Seventies, early Eighties. Cellulose was the norm, and IIRC Vauxhall had started to use acrylic paints. Lacquer was not normally used back then, and 2K had only just started to be used in the refinishing trade.
Anyways, I made myself a compressor in 1985 using a big Calor Gas cylinder (Scottish spec as they are thicker) a big English Electric 2HP motor, that was old even then, a Westinghouse brake compressor from a Bedford truck, proper Condor switch, some angle iron, and some gas pipe. Finished off in Hammerite blue, and it looks like the real thing. I still have it !
I have a Devilbiss JGA gun that I bought in 1980, and I use oxygen hose from a welding set, as it is nice and floppy, even in freezing conditions.