smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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So did your mate with the scanner look at fuel pressures and injector correction factors ?
I would hazard a guess that your problem is injector related, which will not throw up a fault code unless it has actually failed.
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On 2/4/2020 at 7:59 PM, malce said:
Anyone know if the 1533 contoller still work as normal if you wire up a remote to it?
Really know nothing about remotes but I am looking at a Insma Wireless Remote Control 433 MHz 12V 4CH Wireless Remote Control Switch Relay Switch 2 Transceiver with 1 Receiver and assuming this would work. Help please.
I have just fitted a Webasto Thermotop C to my 04 plate Astra, however this is NOT Canbus, whereas the V is, and will need the signal from the 1533 (I think) ?
I have used the single channel model to operate it. The transmitters feel good quality. It works perfectly, and IMO the whole heater installation is very worthwhile.
I do not know if the remote will last a long time though, but time will tell. For the price though, you cant go wrong.
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I have a benchtop one that I have not used for years because the gauntlets have disintegrated with age.
It has a lamp in it, but all you can see after a short while is swirling dust, which is probably not helped by the speed in which the viewing screen is etched. This may be because on a benchtop model, the screen is quite close to the workpiece. On a freestanding model, this may be better.
As has been said, needs a lot of air. However, it was effective, but all things considered, IMO a lot of hassle.
I only used chilled iron grit, but I am told that crushed walnut shells are kinder to the screen and cause less dust. I have not tried it, but imagine it would be fine with alloys, but not on rusty iron or steel.
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6 minutes ago, philthespark said:
it's in a bit of a rough area, you never know I may be lucky enough that someone nicks the damned thing. lol
Well Good luck with that !
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I have owned many vehicles over the 40 plus years I have been driving, probably around 50, including 22 proper Land Rovers, and 2 Freelander 1 TD4s, and I have to say that both the Freelanders have been the most "challenging".
Most "Professional" repairers seen completely unable to diagnose them properly, which I feel is the main reason for their reputation,and they do have more than a few foibles.
However, I have to say that I do actually like mine. When I am not hating it again 😆
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It should be fine, provided that you are not doing continual short journeys and it is working properly, and you don't have loads of current gobbling accessories. Of course it will do no harm to upgrade if you want to.
Voltmeters are generally slow to react to any change, but assuming the rev counter gets its signal from the alternator, as many vehicles do nowadays, suggests that it is slow to wake up ?
Maybe poor earth, dirty or oily slip rings, worn brushes possibly, which is normally the main cause of alternator failure.
Try a multimeter across the battery and see if it makes around 14 volts with the engine running, and that it still does with the headlamps, heater blower , and rear window on.
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Series SWBs had one of these each side and LWBs two.
Factory option I believe.
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Saw A BMW 5 series like this at the weekend on M25 junction 4. Climbed the barrier going too fast round the roundabout.
The Duke of Earl driving it could obviously handle it !
FFS
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I agree with the others. Compression test it before doing anything, and if its OK leave it alone.
More likely to be general wear on the FIP and injectors or a hose leak in any case.
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Personally, I would do all the bores and buy a new set of AE or other quality rings for all.
Something not touched on when honing with the engine in situ which is not a problem when the engine is out and disassembled, is that it is VERY, VERY easy to hit the crankshaft or block webbing with the hone.
You can protect the journal, but you will almost definitely bugger up the honing tool. You MUST be aware of how far down you can go, so mark the shaft or make some sort of reference point.
When I have done this, I always buy a few tins of aerosol brake cleaner to flush away any swarf and stray carborundum, and then blow it all clear with an airline. Its worth a tenner or so IMO.
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I would check the boost diaphragm in the pump. If its pinholed, fuel can feed into the boost pressure tube which runs from the turbo housing to boost diaphragm cover.
This will add extra fuel, which will cause knocking, and also add heat.
When this gets bad, it will go runaway, with LOTS of white smoke.
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Definitely been honed by hand, but I have always had good results with this.
Can you feel the ridge at the top of the bores ?
No 2 has a problem. Try re honing ,but if it does not clean up, will need reboring or relining. This will be expensive, so might be better looking for a replacement block or engine.
No 4 looks like it has had standing water in it for a while ?
Mike Tomcat on here has a good engine BTW
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I would check the bore for ovality and taper, AND SIZE. Check the pistons are the right size for the bores.
The rings do look dodgy though, so I would deglaze the bores and fit a new set of rings anyway.
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If you think half a capful of oil is a lot, think again. Freelander TD4 (BMW) will have a LOT more oil in the intercooler and intake system than that. I can ONLY see haze in following headlamps when I boot it. I have to top up the oil quite often.
As a comparison, my 04 Astra at 275k miles and still on its original turbo, uses NO oil between changes, and when I took off the intercooler for the first time last summer, there was not even a teaspoonful of oil in it
On this engine (TD4) it is caused by the breather system and high crankcase pressure, which itself is caused by piston blowby, which I believe is a piston ring problem.
When I worked in the plant/agricultural industry, oil consumption was a common problem, and it was caused by allowing the engine to run either at idle or low load for too long when the engine was new. IE namby pamby running in. Diesel engines need LOAD to bed in the piston rings, otherwise the bores will glaze and also ruin the rings.
Also, overspeccing the oil is known to result in the same thing
For it to be producing white smoke, and not blue, it would be burning a LOT of oil.
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What is "mpoother of pearl" then ? I have never seen that ! 😂
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Noooo. Bellhousing and input shaft are much longer. Also, the Stumpy setup used a housing on the back of the engine. A flywheel housing if you like.
No doubt an adaptor could be made though. This would have the advantage a bringing the engine rearwards and give more clearance at the radiator.
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I thought it was an R380, similar to the P38 diesel, but with defender type gearchange. Certainly the flywheel and bellhousing will bolt straight up and I believe the same clutch setup was used.
And you can still get the engine mounting brackets from LR. Probably reassuringly expensive though.
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From memory (vehicle is 15 miles from here ATM) the V8 LT85 tunnel is more semi-circular. Similar in shape to Fridges bulkhead pic, slightly tapered, and made of plastic (or fibreglass) and the gearlevers in a slightly different position. Rearwards ? Front of the seatbox is different too.
Will get some pics when I go down there.
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6 minutes ago, reb78 said:
I wonder though - What would the cost and time be for a conversion (say from a tdi era vehicle) vs purchase of a factory 2.8? I bet the final costs arent that far apart especially if you put a value on time?
I’d be really curious to see how the 2.8 drives in a defender -i had one in a BMW and its one of the nicest engines I have driven.
It IS the time that costs, if , as you say, you put a cost on it. Also if you do not have the time, skills, or inclination, AND have the money to spend.
But as the engines are only a couple of hundred quid, and the gearboxes are a similar price, although are becoming harder to get, I don't imagine it would cost that much. TBH though, one would be better off using a BMW gearbox and adaptor, which will be stronger and nicer.
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Good work. I still have the cardboard template I made 25 odd years ago. Need to do it all again, but for Defender shaped footwells.
I have got the tunnel for my genuine V8 90 if you wanted to borrow it for copying, as mine will not be done anytime soon.
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I assume you mean exporting them as a business, rather than one particular vehicle ?
I am sure there would be some interest for the novelty value, and I am sure you could sell a few, but its easy enough to make your own here. I do not imagine too many people would want to pay over the odds for them, what with import and shipping charges etc.
Of course I may be wrong …………...…...………. At least the steering wheel is on the correct side !
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I reported it that way too. Nothing has happened though.
Looks like a late 1980s to me. No Series bits at all as far as I can see.
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Be sensible then. Get shot of the boat, and the other ones can wait !
Might never get another !
Vapours and diggers
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I bought a little Yanmar tracked excavator 18 months ago, and its SO much better than the little Kubota tractor and backhoe that we had before the do as you likeys took it.
Also have an old Smalley here (look it up) but that has a lot of limitations.
Couldn't justify the cost of the Yanmar , but the convenience of having your own is marvellous. However, on reflection hiring is probably better, as if you have a problem, they can cost a LOT of money to fix.
Also, there is the problem of keeping hold of it. If you buy one, get one that is too heavy to be towed behind a van or 4x4. They are much less expensive to buy, and a lot less likely to be stolen.
A month ago we picked up an old Priestman Mustang 35 that had stood outside for 15 years. Wouldn't start apparently and was abandoned. Cost £350 plus the hassle of collecting it.
Took 20 minuites to get it running, and apart from a hydraulic leak caused by rats, and being a bit battered and rusty, works fine. Bargains are around to be had, if you can find them