smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Buy her a Suzuki Jimny and keep the 110 for yourself.
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All the 4 litres used bigger crank journals, so the nearest block you will get is the late serpentine 3.9,which has the crossdrill type bearing caps and cylinder block webs, but is not actually drilled. It could be though. Crank sensor could also be grafted on.
Don't know if anyone does some sort or main bearing spacers though. Bit of a bodge though.
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Oil in the intake system is more likely to be from the engine breather than the turbo seals, so I think that's a red herring.
I wouldn't think its the timing belt, as if it has slipped/jumped, I would think the engine would be fooked mechanically by now.
Does the engine sound different ? What colour is the smoke, or does it alter ?
As has been suggested, look at the boost diaphragm, but a split or hole may be hard too see. Beware of this fault though, and you may (or may not) like to try this as a test...…..
What happens is, if the engine idles for a long time (off boost) and the diaphragm leaks, fuel from inside the injection pump gradually fills up the pipe that runs from the top of the pump to the turbo inlet housing. Then, when it reaches the top, it is sucked onto the turbo fan and vapourised, causing the engine to run away with itself with insane amounts of white smoke, and very loud diesel knock. the engine cannot be turned off with the key, and must be stalled with the clutch/gearbox, otherwise it will blow up.
The old 19j engine suffered with this a lot, and as its essentially the same setup, but with a different pump, its worth a look.
It could also be an injector. Unlikely on these, but don't rule it out.
Good luck
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I too have a disdain for the use of the word "cool", and also view faux rust with contempt, you just cant beat genuine rust !
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Bit late on all this but...……….having done this conversion several times, but using the original gearbox. As far as I remember, its been a long time
The original kit would have comprised of the adaptor plate, a crankshaft spigot adaptor, and a set of engine mounts to bolt to the engine.
You had to have the thick 4x4 V8 flywheel redrilled to suit a series clutch, but you will have to use a Defender clutch as the splines are different. Will all bolt up to your gearbox.
If you used the thin SD1 type flywheel, you needed a modified release bearing sleeve also.
I always used the series radiator with an electric fan in front with no problems ever...……..even towing
For exhausts, use the twin outlet early RR 3.5 or Disco iron manifolds, with early (1986ish) downpipes, y piece, and muffler. Haveto make some exhaust mounts though
Tailpipe you are on your own !
Cannot use any typeV8 bellhousing, all too long, unles you start moving crossmembers, or/and fitting Defender front ends.
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2004 model will only have one low pressure pump in the RH rear wheelarch. The high pressure pump is on the engine.
You need to know whether its the low or high pressure side which is at fault .
If its the low pressure fault, it is most likely the fuel pump at fault. DONT waste money on ANY non genuine item. It might get you going, but you will be wanting another one quite soon.
If its a high pressure fault, the nightmare begins...……………………………...
Most mechanics are unable to diagnose properly, and end up wasting LOTS of your money on unnecessary parts.
You have managed 86k without it playing up ???? 😲 You have much to learn Grasshopper.
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For many years I worked in Parts Departments, and this I one of MANY things that annoy me nowadays.
No one seems to have much product knowledge. Most of them will not even look without the registration number, and even then, you STILL get the wrong items
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Yes, you just remove the big crankshaft bolt and the pulley assembly will pull off.
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More than your fair share of hassle ????? Get yourself a Freelander TD4 and learn the REAL meaning of hassle. 😩
I will swap you some rusty bolts any day !
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Also, if you use Rocol J166 Anti Sieze compound ( better type of Copaslip) on the threads and seats, they will never give trouble anyway.
Breaker bar vote. Got a Sealey Premier one that I have had for twenty years plus and also a proper Britool one that belonged to my Dad and must be fifty years old. Never broken either one.
As has been said, required torque loading is not that high.
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Yes, the flexplate will me made of something other than plain mild steel. That's another reason that I do NOT want to weld or braze it. It doesn't really lend itself to drilling another set of holes because of the shape of it, but I guess I could do this, but again I am concerned this will affect the strength of it in some way.
The converter is held in position by its center boss which locates in the rear of the crankshaft, and by its nose and gearbox input shafts. The bolts seem to only transmit the drive, and not actually support it...……. If you see what I mean
I do like the idea of plugging nd redrilling the threaded mounting pads in the TC though, or maybe I could get a TC specialist to rejig the mounting pads to the correct PCD
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Not too taxing for some of you guys...………..
I need to fit an alien torque converter to a flexplate. The original had a six point fixing, but the new one is only three point fixing. This in itself is not the problem as I can just use three of the six holes.
However, the PCD of the holes is different by 6.5mm. Now, the obvious and easy way is to elongate the holes in the flexplate by 3.25mm each. I am not really entirely happy with this though.
I don't want to be adding weld to "move" the holes, because of distortion and interfering with balance. Thought about brazing some washers to it, but don't like this for much the same reasons.
Only other thing I can think of is shouldered bolts in a much larger hole, but then there is the problem of finding something suitable.
Or am I worrying too much ?
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Is it an early carb model with a single downpipe each side, or an EFI with twin downpipes each side ?
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Freelander 1 TD4 I guess ?
So many things it could be on these, and so hard to diagnose.
You say the engine was changed. What does that mean exactly ? Was it a complete used engine from a scrapper and did they use any bits from your old one ?
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Just to be controversial - the TD4 (BMW M47) from the Freelander is a very robust and civilised little unit, VNT for nice low torque, relatively standalone ECU, JLR parts-bin, used in a lot of cars and goes on forever, plenty of shonky Freelanders out there for £500 as donors...
If you are going to use an M47, do yourself a favour and buy a car version. The Freelander version suffers all sorts of oil burning and breathing problems. Also, the inlet manifold on the car version will be facing the right way.
Other than that, its WAY better than a Tdi
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Mine packed up after 3 months. Possibly me Renault Master is too big for it ?
Couldn't find the receipt so cannot take it back.
Worked fine with Freelander and Astra though
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Probably no real reason down to usage, just down to time.
Most likely a small stress riser caused by or during production, or carelessness at some time during its life, and the due to the accumulation of time and miles has finally let go.
Could have happened at any time I guess, and just "one of those things"
20 years ago, myself and a workmate had driven about 100 miles in a Transit DI. We were sitting in a traffic queue with the engine idling when there was a sudden almighty banging. Same thing, crankshaft snapped for no apparent reason.
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Look up one of the neighbouring units on 192.com or whatever, and give them a ring to see if they know anything ?
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Other thing to check, IF you can get it running, as you say it is misfiring.
With the engine running, take off the oil filler cap and see if its puffing out of there. If it is, it could be a cracked/holed piston.
If its NOT puffing any more than usual, then it more or less confirms the injectors, or one of them !
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I have had a Gerni hot or cold machine since 2002. Its a professional machine but I only use it for my own stuff, so its not had a massive amount of use. However, it always works properly, and never let me down. I am still on the original lance and hose, but then I do take care of it and do not run over the hose.
I don't think they are sold in this country now, but they look mighty similar to the Nilfisk machines.
Incidentally, I worked for an Agricultural and Plant dealership until 2001. We had a hot pressure washer there, which the guys all used, and when I left, I missed having one, hence I bought my own. We were a Karcher agent, and back then, the projected life of their small cold machines was...…..
8 HOURS !
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I shall be in Cumbria (Millom) with me van at the end of February if you can wait that long.
I can bring the axles back to Kent.
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From what I have seen, the Red Winch Jeep to LT230 adaptor, will put the transfer box outputs at the wrong position. As you look at it from the back, the standard setup puts the outputs at around the 4.30 o' clock position. The Red Winch adaptor puts it at about 3 o'clock, which will be all wrong for propshaft angles, especially on a SWB. It may even touch the RH chassis ?
Unless you have a long adaptor, the oil pan flange on the AW4 gearbox interferes with the desired position of the transfer box. Again, on a SWB vehicle, I feel a long adaptor will leave you with a rear propshaft that is too short to last long. On a longer wheelbase, this will not be a problem of course.
I am doing this ATM, and have experimented a bit, as I have no money to buy expensive adaptors and the like, so am working on an inexpensive solution.
The UZFE, IMO, is a great engine for a Defender,
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What Muddy has said ! Do NOT under any circumstances put your hand over the open intake in an attempt to stop it.
Diesel vacuum at full throttle is quite capable of ripping the skin off your hand.
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The only issue will be that if you try to use the thinner and lighter SD1 flywheel (which will physically fit) instead of the thicker Range Rover type, you will have to either make up a longer slave cylinder pushrod in order for the clutch to work, or make a longer release bearing carrier sleeve.
Neither of which are commercially available AFAIK. Other than that, its a straight swap
V8 pulley
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
Definitely not an SD1...…………… at least not any sort of UK spec one.
Sherpa ambulance ?