smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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3 hours ago, monkie said:
Clearly the cap is the key to its wizardry
That is actually a FLUX capacitor !
Cant believe no one recognised it.
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2 hours ago, monkie said:
That's a good point Ralph. One of my old house mates years ago actually paid good money for a magnet that clamps round the fuel pipe and claimed to reduce your fuel consumption by aligning the molecules
They sell a lot of these things to soften water too. Apparently they work !
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1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said:
... and regrettably allowed to continue to breathe. Civilisation has destroyed natural selection. 😇
Mo
And to breed...………….
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Another vote for the multi tool. Bought one from Lidl a few years ago branded Parkside, although I am pretty sure it was made by Bosch. Have a Dewalt recip saw bought ten years ago and hardly use it now. If you get it wrong and don't have it held really solidly, you can get hurt. Anyone who has got one will tell you.
Does have its uses, but I wouldn't buy another. Not even for demolition.
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This is interesting. Although it is an aftermarket add on, the system is similar to that used on the BMW M47 (Freelander 1) and m57 (L322) diesels, also fitted to loads of other BMW vehicles.
On these engines, it is built into the engine top cover. The original setup used a filter, which would quickly become saturated with carbon and seriously inhibit crankcase ventilation. The "cure" for this was (and still is) to use a modified vortex insert in place of the original filter. However, this does not work well either IMO, as your intake system and intercooler still fills with a lot of oil.
All of these BMW engines I have come across suffer from this, and is considered normal by what I have read, but I feel this is a base problem with the engine/materials/design, as they all suffer from a LOT of piston blowby, which is just not apparent on other very high mileage diesels we have run in the past ( and present)
It cannot do any harm though.
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Mine has the fuel burning heater and it is up to normal temp in two miles or about four to five minutes.
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A long time ago I had a Sunbeam Rapier series 4, which had a Laycock overdrive. That had the problem that the car would run in the low ratio (direct) after starting up, but after engaging O/D, would not disengage until the car had been stopped and left for a while, and then after restarting would repeat the process.
Turned out to be a tiny piece of friction material stuck in the dashpot/relief valve, not allowing the oil pressure to release.
Probably not your problem, but worth a look ?
I do remember when reassembling, winding down the case against the spring pressure
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Animal prints would have given it character, such a shame !
Whats wrong with a nice traditional coat of oil and grease, hammer marks, welding spatter and splashes of paint ?
All too contemporary and minimalist for me 😄
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I couldn't run to CNC anyway, and in any case I cant even get catch up TV to work properly, so what chance do I have ?☹️
I can never see how any self respecting man can live his life without a welder.
Space...…. The final frontier, is a problem. I do not have much, and a lot of machines are either too high or too deep (front to back)
As Bishbosh rightly says, size is everything. Same as buying anything else, like a shed or a ladder or a van. Its never, ever, quite big enough.
I am still looking though.
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Is that an Old Man Britpart steering damper ?
I do like the idea of the Disco steering arm.
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17 minutes ago, western said:
19J mounts will bolt to the 200tdi, use the forward most set of mounting holes on the 'new' engine block.
Sorry, forgot that bit !
Also, I remember the engine I had did NOT have a power steering pump on it, but the 19j pump and bracket will fit straight on if necessary, as I don't know if the Disco one is different.
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It will bolt straight up to it no problem.
Clocking the turbo means to turn the inlet housing from its original position. There is a big circlip that holds it to the iron main body which you will have to remove first, but that's the only difficult bit. Swap the engine mount brackets from your original engine
Use the Steve Parker conversion exhaust for simplicity, if its still available, or make your own
You will also need an intercooler and hoses, and a glowplug relay. Not vital, but make the thing nicer to use.
I THINK that's about it but its 25 years since I did this.
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If I were you I would staple/drawing pin or something, the membrane over the shuttering, or it might be pulled below the concrete or the concrete getting behind it, spoiling the nice edges.
Didn't they say, NEXT Wednesday ? 😄
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Wow. An awful lot of food for thought there. Have spent a few evenings watching milling and machining videos, plus the inevitable sidetracks.
For the time being I have the best part of a house build to start/finish first, or I will be getting some serious handbagging from SWMBO, who wants a stable built FIRST (priorities 🙄)on a difficult site. I dont suppose anyone wants around 200m3 of soil and chalk ? Free to collector but no vehicular access …………...
I have realised over the weekend that I seriously need to thin out some of my projects before starting another potential unfinished one !
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And the wishbone bushes
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Yes, if the slab get rained on to any degree, it becomes pock marked and will be forever dusting up. Found this out the hard way. Luckily, it was our cabin/temporary house, and so has Celotex and screed over it. Had it been the workshop floor, would have been a right PITA.
Will you be using a bull float ? That's not as easy as it looks !
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8 minutes ago, SteveG said:
I don’t think it looks too bad...
Well no, on the chassis its fine, but that not what I meant !
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Cant agree more. To me, looks effing awful.
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On 10/30/2019 at 9:17 PM, vulcan bomber said:
Here's a link to a build thread on a model engineering forum I use.
http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/8734/5-inch-gauge-9f
For the People that were commenting here about the machine the OP is looking at, Harrison make very good machines.
Love the thread too. Fascinating.
However, its making me think again, as I fear I do not have the time, or patience to see it through ……...… or possibly the skill !
Milling machine has now been sold. To someone else. ☹️
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I have noticed that the tooling will add up to more that the mill itself. Unfortunately. If the mill had a quill feed, I would sell the floor standing pillar drill and put it there instead.
In the Brother in Laws shed here there is an ancient Colchester (I think) lathe with a 20 inch chuck and an 8 foot bed that still works well. It was made when God was a boy, so I don't know what its like for out and out accuracy, but its probably OK for anything I am likely to do.
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I find my thumb works a treat !
I bought one on the auction site. Tester that is, not thumb, only cheap but works a treat. I do not know how accurate the gauge actually is, as I have not tested it, but you are looking at cylinder balance mainly. Only thing is, I find with these things that although they look comprehensive, they come with every injector fitting except the one you need ! Mine has glowplug adaptors.
If you only need it for once in a while use, you are welcome to borrow mine.
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5 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Have just purchased a universal mill myself it is an AEW viceroy horizon sadly no quill feed but it was being used for skimming cylinder heads and the fly cutters for that came with the mill does the future work justify the cost who knows time will tell I was happy with the cost and after all you only live once and cannot take anything with you when you go so why not it was a pain to offload local farmer assisted with a telehandler his cost being " I might want a key way cutting sometime lad " regards Stephen
I really like the AEW, and its got a really good table travel for its size too. Plus its very compact.
I do have a Viceroy lathe, but its been in bits for about 6 years because the motor packed up. It was three phase, and I ran it with an inverter. I have not got round to fixing it yet, or buying another motor. IIRC on of the gib keys from the cross slide got lost too.
Also got a Progress pillar drill 2S or G? It is a bench top model, or possibly for the vertically challenged. Also needs a new motor.
Milwaukee angle grinder died today ………… I don't seem to have much luck with electric motors ☹️
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5 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
What sort of scale model you thinking of (I've been building a 5 inch gauge 9F for some years now) because you can get a long way with a lathe with a vertical slide.
😲 That's exactly what I have been looking at. I saw a 5 inch one at an auction some years ago and really liked it.
How far have you got ? I guess interest comes and goes, what with available time etc etc
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Bridgeports are great, but sadly wayyyyy to tall for anywhere I have, unless it lives outside !
Tinkering ? For a start, to bore out some bellhousings concentrically, refacing some cylinder heads, but after that dunno offhand, but I am sure there will be lots of things. But its like any tools really, once you have one, you cannot understand how you ever got by without it.
As I am getting on a bit now, instead if wasting my time with vehicles, I am pondering the idea of building a scale live steam locomotive.
100 Inch Defender build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I would take a good long look at the rear half of that chassis before getting too involved.
We have a TD5 here, same colour and everything. Jacked up the rear end at the radius arm mount, and jack kept jacking but vehicle stayed where it was !
All the rear end is shot, and it didn't look bad at all.
And the roof is rusty at the front, letting in lots of water.