smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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All looks right to me. Mine is an 85 though. Later V8s had the split case LT85 that you have, and the transfer box will be 1.195 ratio, which you will find on a sticker on the top surface, but you will have to take out the middle seat cushion and take off the seat box top cover to see.
Unless you can get a mirror up there from underneath.
Also the V5 should state something like 90 V8SW in the title, which cannot be changed
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Just wondered, as I like the idea of an ECU disable that cannot be bypassed like the old secret switches.
Some good ideas though.
I know it would never stop the vehicle being "lifted" but its food for thought, especially after one of our customers losing his genuine "Tomb Raider" a week ago from a private drive.
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Does Megasquirt have any security capability ?
Immobilizer coding and the like, such as BMW EWS for example
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13 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
@smallfry
the ones I linked to above give equivalent lumens to a 5ft tube.Just looked. I have not seen them before ! They look pretty good to me.
Only issue to me is that my T8 tubes are 36W, so they do not offer any power saving advantage, BUT they will not be fragile, and will not be bothered by being continually switched on and off, so will be worth having over tubes for those reasons alone.
My other reservation with LED (we have a lot of them at work) is that do not seem to last anywhere near as long as claimed.
( just been looking at your old UZFE vids BTW)
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I have got eight 5ft T8 HF (slim and starterless) fittings with daylight tubes. Switched in pairs so I don't have to have them all on at once unless they are needed.
Also a couple of LED pendant bulbs on another switch to use if I only want to go in and out, as it doesnt do fluorescent tubes any good to keep switching them on and off.
I have not found any LED tubes that give anything like the same lumens, and although you can get LED lamps that do give more light, they seem to be more of a spot type which does not give such good light spread as a tube.
LED id coming on leaps and bounds though.
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9 hours ago, Quagmire said:
I thought the OP was talking about swapping the entire engine, and then fitting the original ancillaries?
He was, but what ancillaries ? Whoever wrote that article in LRO clearly has no idea what he is talking about.
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The M57 has two inlet ports per cylinder, and the M51 only has one.
So the M57 manifold has 12 outlets, and the M51 has 6
As I said, I do not know if the cylinder head COULD be swapped, but you would still be limited to 2.5 litres, as the 3.0 M57 has a bigger bore AND a longer stroke. So even if it were possible to swap the crank, you then would have the problem of a conrod and piston combo that would suit the smaller bore, and still NOT be 3.0 litre.
Then of course, you would have to find an injector that would fit the head. Either that or go the whole hog and fit the M57 common rail system
All in all, just fit an M57. It will be a lot easier, but not cheap, and probably more satisfactory. Although I have to say that the good old fashioned fuel injection system is much more reliable and dependable.
I am still ponderering whether to fit an M57 to my V8 90 in place of the petrol engine.
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I understand is helps to corrode manifolds and pipes quicker. No direct experience though
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1 hour ago, Bigj66 said:
If I swap to a discovery 1.2 box with diff lock is it just a straight swap or are there differences between that and the 110? Is it an easy diy job?
Yes and Yes. Some Disco boxes had no difflock facility, but the gubbins is still inside, so just needs the linkages and cover swapping.
Shame you are not nearer to me, I have one you could try to see if you like the effect
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11 hours ago, Blanco said:
Well jealous of the GP, been a while since we did one,... shame about the Mercedes 'team' strategy on that one. Took the pleasure out of it for most I think.
Off Topic I know, but I think that was a disgrace. If I were Bottas, I would have resigned.
We have a Niva belonging to a local landowner still about here. VERY tatty now though. I nearly bought a brand new one once, but changed my mind after a good test drive. S0 harsh and vibratory.
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Engine mount brackets are different...…. mounting bolts a different pattern. For a start.
Inlet manifold will not fit. Don't know if the cylinder head could be swapped, but why would you ? It a two valve per cylinder head, and the M57 is four, but I guess you are talking about fitting the M57 head onto the M51 ? Pistons look different too.
Same bellhousing bolt pattern though, and I believe the crankshaft bolt pattern is the same too
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1 hour ago, martyn668 said:
Priced from £40,000? I’m not entirely surprised, but like Dragons’ Den, I’m out.
Yep. Me too.
I fear that it will be judged by its on road civility rather than off road ability.
Smooth and goes round corners fast good. A bit challenging to drive and doesn't go round corners fast bad
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Jeremy Fearn use the M57, and yes, marriage breakdown caused the demise of the business.
Remember reading an article in Practical Classics about swapping an M51 into a Reliant Scimitar. I seem to remember the guy had the engine running in the donor vehicle and cut loom wires until it stopped. He then joined the cable up and carried on cutting and joining until he had factored out the rest of the vehicle. IIRC the donor was a Vauxhall Omega, but it would still have had security devices
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We have the OLD Jimny here. If its anything like the old one it will be brilliant.
Our old one will go anywhere a standard Defender will go, with the exception of slightly less ground clearance.
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Easiest way I have found to test the viscous coupling is to mark both parts with a spot of tippex or paint, then drive the car a little way and do a three point turn, and then look to see if the marks have moved in relation to each other. If they have NOT, you definitely have a problem.
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https://www.facebook.com/groups/1106830676068639/?ref=group_header
Somebody doing the P38 option right now...…………………….
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Hard to tell, but I would suspect the propshaft support bearings first.
Where are you based ? I have a propshaft you could try.
Not much activity on Freelander 1s on this forum nowadays it seems
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Everything is reliable. Until it breaks down. Everything will in the end, no matter what you do.
Just because something is new(er) does not mean it will be any more reliable than something old
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I spoke to Ian at Designa a couple of months ago, and he told me they were embroiled in developing Disco chassis...……….. Didn't ask which one though.So not much time for anything else at that time. I imagine that they, like Richards, spend a great deal of time working out quotes for special builds that are never ordered, or ones that have not been thought through properly by the customer and need modification halfway through.
Lots of good sense here, keeping it simple will hopefully ensure it actually makes it on the road (or off it) Beauty of a LWB is that you can push the engine and (auto, sorry) box right back and retain the luverly series grille.
Parabolics were a revelation to me too. MUCH better than rusty standard ones. My overiding memories of leaf springs are of axle tramp in RWD cars back in the day, and series Land Rovers which made the flab on me chest, sorry I mean me six pack jump about. I must say I think that boinky boink suspension is much nicer on a road biased vehicle, rather than feeling like riding on a trolley jack !
I have nothing against an LS either, although I do have a preference for Auto gearboxes. What I don't like is having to pay excessive insurance !
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24 minutes ago, Ally V8 said:
Sorry, my scopes are Pico 2 and 4 channel - bit much to do a single job. As much as I hate the parts shotgun, I think you might be better of in this case. I see Island 4x4 do a Bosch pressure reg for your car at £85+Vat.
Look again at the Island 4x4 listing. They call it the pressure regulator, but the photo shows what looks like the rail sensor to me ? Would need to confirm what you would be getting !
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Designa chassis will be able to do whatever you want. I have had three from them over the years, and thoroughly recommend them. All cost the same more or less than a standard chassis.
I get the impression that you DONT want leaf springs, and that you REALLY want to use the LS ? ANY diesel is out ?
Smoothness and refinement ? Auto gearbox all the way. Much better than ANY ghastly (and relatively fragile) LR manual box.
I personally don't get this need for huge engines and squillions of horsepower and torque which will require all non LR running gear (plus the insurance and IVA implications) Its not a Land Rover any more, so easier and cheaper to just go any buy a Landcruiser instead. Of course some more power is desirable, but its not a sports car.
The P38 idea seems fine to me, IF you can find a worthwhile chassis under a suitably inexpensive vehicle. Its only a rebody job, so no IVA complications, but isnt the road tax 'kin expensive on them ? Frankensteining I think its called ? All the engineering refinement already done !
For me though, given your specs regarding regulations etc, I would go for a coil sprung 109 (or 100 inch) series Designa chassis, with mounts for a Defender/Disco, or even a P38 steering box. Fitted with Defender gearbox crossmember (removable) Mounts to suit a ZF autobox and V8 Rover.
Or in other words, a 110 V8 chassis that LOOKS like a series type chassis.
BUT, regarding the engine, I am no great fan of the Rover V8 nowadays, although I suspect that I may end up using one on my own project, but what about a BMW M57 diesel coupled to a ZF Auto ? Prestige car engine with good economy and reliability, plus good parts availability ?
There is no right answer to this, I am guessing that you already know what you SHOULD do, but your heart wants something else ?
You will end up with a headache just like me, trying to choose between a Rover 4.6 V8, Lexus UZ FE, or a BMW M57, and not getting anything done. Stupidly though, the Rover engine seems to be the easiest, but most expensive option ! But I like the idea of a different cocktail of standard parts ……………………..
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Sorry chaps, not been able to reply owing to tech stupidity...………………….
The engine is a BMW M57 (or might be a Lexus 1UZ FE) and will be fitted to a ZF 4HP22/24 Hybrid gearbox, so nothing too exciting
TBH I have not looked at the bolt sizes, but from memory I think they are both M12 with some M8 around the bottom of the bellhousing (engines are 20 miles away)
I don't think torsional stress with any conversion plate/casting is a particular problem, unless it is stupidly thin. Its axial stress, if that's the correct term ? Lengthways bending in other words. There is not a massive difference between the sizes, between 30 to 50mm radius at a guess.
I guess an alloy would be easier to work, but I have no idea what grade, but steel would be stronger. Or is it ?
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As the title says, I will be needing to make an engine adaptor plate, but what material to make it from ?
It will need to 11 or 12 mm thick (no thicker) and will need to have some tapped (or maybe nuts on the other side) and some countersunk holes.
So do I use mild steel, or aluminium of some sort, and if so, what grade ? My worry with alloy is the strength of and tapped threads, and that steel is heavy.
I see many adaptor plates commercially available that are alloy, but they tend to be thicker than I can use.
Thoughts please ?
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Looks good from here. Its a Land Rover. Its not meant to run properly 😄
Pedal return spring missing ?
Improving Defender ride quality
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have always found harder tyres better for braking, but all this stuff about changing the suspension ? Can you honestly, and I mean HONESTLY say that all these companies who sell this stuff have put more resources into R & D than Land Rover (and other manufacturers) have ? And clearly know better like the guy on Youtube ? Don't think so
Unless you are modding for extreme off road or any other particular purpose, IMO its all the Kings new clothes.