smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Can't go wrong with that ! What I find with the modern DIY/budget drills, Clarke , Axminster, Sealey etc, is that when you put some pressure on the tool, the table deflects down, which of course affects accuracy and gives oval holes.
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Can see the problem ! I must confess I have not seen a Smiths gauge like this. TIM maybe ? Also looks a bit deep for a Smiths voltmeter. Is the main case plastic or metal ?
Would probably cost more to have it refurbed than to buy new ?
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When you look at the rear of the bezel, does it have tabs that fold over the main case, or is the whole perimeter rolled (right word ?) over.
If its the former, it should come off by twisting it...…………...like a light bulb. However, I usually find there is some sealant/adhesive used too.
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Non runner in bits ? We have just bought a 1989 Turbo diesel complete and running but very tatty and no MOT for £300.
Best put it on ebay. Might be pleasantly surprised. Depends who wants to buy it, and why. Difficult question to answer really
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If the chassis is galvanized, presuming it IS a new one ? I reckon you are best off T-washing it and brush painting good old chassis paint on it.
I know its relatively soft, but its cheap and is easily touched in or recoated. Once you get a few coats on it, is adds some age, which I like !
Depends what you are trying to achieve. A workhorse, to disguise it, or make it a bit flash (thief magnet)
Waxoyl is another sh1te Hammerite group product. Wouldn't waste ANY money on it all. For a few quid more, buy either Bilt Hamber, or Dinitrol and get something that actually works..
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I believe Blacksheep no longer do them...…………. not sure though. They had a lot of hassle with Land Rover owners.
If they DO still do them, they will do it while you wait, and wait...…………..it takes a while !
Clive, the guy who does the welding, is superb.
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Interesting you want to go from diesel to petrol. Can you live with 17ish MPG ? What would Mrs Peaklander make of that ?
If you want it offer £500, but as he is a suspected trader he is unlikely to take it...……………….unless he has had it too long.
If he doesn't accept it, walk away. There are still plenty around.
If it has done 135k though, realistically you should budget for a rebuild, just in case
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Yes, beeping will be a low keyfob battery. Its a CR2032. Most supermarkets or Toolstation will have them.
Knocking will most likely be the crankshaft pulley separated. Its a two piece bonded rubber to metal thing. Sounds like your big ends have gone !
Smoking could be lots of things unfortunately...…………...
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Sorry, just to be clear, when I said XL, I meant car type tyres !
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Whatever you choose, make sure they are marked XL (extra load) and they will be fine.
You COULD go up to 60 profile, or even to 65s (which I have on mine) which will give you more choice and range of prices.
Only "problem" with this, is that it makes the speedo read slightly slow...…………...not really a problem as they tend to overead in any case, but you do lose a bit of grunt for heavy towing and full loads. In practice though, I have not found this a problem for me.
I wouldn't like to "recommend" it as such, but its something you could consider.
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Thanks for the replies gents. Scanner not actually here yet !
As I suspected, I tried it when I got home this evening, but as the temperature is only 14 degrees here, it started no problem.
Have already tried all the things suggested, except the ignition switch, and when the items are put on the other Freelander, that one still starts no problem.
I suspect that its something inside the cabin rather than the engine itself.
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As title suggests, I have a problem with an intermittent no start with a TD4 Auto
I have read that this is a not unusual problem with the "ultra reliable and bulletproof" BMW engine...……………….
It has left me stranded at a fuel stop, causing chaos at the pumps, at the supermarket, at work, and at home.
I have learned that the prime suspects are the camshaft sensor, the low pressure fuel pump, and the injectors. So first things first, I did a cold compression test (couldn't start it) and all cylinders came between 400 to 410 psi, so that's OK I think. Checked the injectors for leak off, both with engine running, and without. All were more or less the same, and not at all excessive, so again, OK I think.
Then, being that we also have a fully functioning second Freelander, I have tried some component swapping...……….
Up to now I have tried (one at a time) camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, pressure regulator on HP pump (using new O ring), boost pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor on rail, plus wiring loom modification for it. Low pressure fuel pump under wheel arch and replaced the fuel filter, which had been installed the wrong way round. also installed new glow plugs.
None of which seem to have made a difference. Always difficult with intermittent faults in any case. Thought I had made a breakthrough when I discovered that there was some oil that had worked its way up the wiring harness to the engine ECU and had settled in one of the connector plug "wells" Cleaned it all up, treated with contact cleaner, and checked inside the ECU to see if any had got inside. It hadn't. Still wouldn't start.
Considered the immobiliser, but as the engine actually cranks I think its working correctly ? (I took the chip out of the key and tried, but the engine doesn't crank) I really don't know where to go with it now. I cannot see that a faulty MAF sensor would prevent it starting, and if the injector/s or HP pump were faulty, they would be faulty ALL the time ?
When it does start, it runs with no problems at all, no matter how far you go, and starts instantly.
Thinking about it though, and trying to find a pattern to it, bearing in mind the recent HOT weather, I have found that it will start in the early morning when its cool. I can turn it off and try again in a few minutes, and it will still start. BUT, if I then leave it until the middle of the day when its hot, it will not. Then if I leave it until the next morning, it will start again. But if I then leave it a whole day, and try it in the middle of the next day or the evening, it will not start again.
So it SEEMS that it temperature related (not the engine temperature) but I am not sure about this.
I have ordered a scanner, which I am not sure will help with this much, but anyone got any ideas in the meantime ? It driving me up the wall !
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OEM parts are made by an OEM manufacturer. It does NOT, repeat NOT mean that they are of the quality or specification as the original genuine LR (or whoever) part.
Quality is a meaningless word these days. Everything is of a quality, but no vendor EVER states their merchandise is of low or poor quality, do they ?
If items are NOT in sealed LR packaging, then they will not be genuine parts. They may well be OEM parts, but OEM of what ? Knitting needles ? Hansom carriage lamps perhaps ?
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Having had lots of vehicles powered by the Rover V8, I have never had an oil cooler fitted, and have never felt it necessary to have one for "normal" use. Not in the UK.
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Looks like Arran Beige to me.
Best colour ever for NOT looking dirty !
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I used to work in the Agricultural/Plant industry, and took an interest in oils and filtration.......................
The times customers would come in and given the choice between a Genuine Parts and a "will fit" diesel filter, would insist on the cheap one because a Genuine one was three times the price AND blocked up too quickly ................................
We also did a lot of warranty work as a result of filter failure. It is ALWAYS better to buy a GOOD filter for any application.
Buy only Genuine manufacturer, or Mahle, Mann, or Purflux. and K&N air filters if you want one.
Cr****and, W*x, F**m should be avoided.
Faulty bypass valves, and poor filter mediums are the main problems.
Tanuki was lucky. as there was an obvious symptom and fault. Poor filtration is normally insidious and gradual and in the long run will cost you a great deal
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Selector shaft, quadrant, remote housing and gearlever.
Much easier to do a straight swap with my Disco box...........................
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I don't know what is "normal" for these, Fridge.
I have been looking at it today, between the showers, and it looks like it has been leaking for some time, judging by the amount of oily grime under there. Even with the undertray and side covers off, I can't make out any one place that the oil is coming from, although it looks like coming from the top somewhere. However, I did find a nozzle from a mastic gun with cured clear silicone inside, which appears to have been used around the valve cover area. It has a noisy tappet/lifter, so maybe there has been an unsuccessful attempt to fix it.
As its almost impossible to get at the turbo and associated hoses, looks like I might have to drop the engine in any case, to check it all out.
I hate oil leaks
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I seem to have a big problem with oil leaking from behind the engine somewhere. I have not really had time to investigate properly yet, but from what I have seen on the net, seems like these engines are prone to this.
I have read about misplaced grommets and a bolt/plug missing or left out..............although I do not know which one yet.
Of more concern to me though, is the puffing from the crankcase when I remove the oil filler cap. It seems excessive to me, compared to other vehicles I have available to try. I have checked the breather, but have found it is fitted with the later "vortex" type, so it is not a blocked filter.
I am thinking of changing the piston rings, but wanted to know if the pistons can be removed with the engine it situ ? The manual I have suggests the engine has to be removed first..............
Any ideas ?
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Air filter blocked with oil or hose softened by oil leaks ?
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On 05/05/2018 at 7:49 PM, Red90 said:
I had assumed the base warranty was 5 years as it is with most automakers. I see the LR only gives 3 years. That is sad. If he was out of warranty, why did he try and get LR to pay?
I must confess that having never bought a new car, I assumed that it would only be a year in any case !
As others have said, a goodwill gesture for a known fault would have been nice. I imagine though, that JLR would be making an awful LOT of goodwill gestures !
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^ What he said. I would rather lose some lock than use spacers. They overload wheel bearings, king pins, and swivels.
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Warranty ? After four years ?
This has always been a problem one way or another.
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Well, picked it up and its seems fine.............................Except
Never having driven one before, I am not sure there is enough assistance in the power steering. There IS assistance, but it still seems heavier than a Defender.
More of a concern though, is the engine breathing. When I remove the oil filler cap with the engine running, it seems to puff quite a lot. Not very much smoke/vapour with it, but seem a lot to me. There are lots threads on the internet about the engine breather filter being blocked etc, so I checked it, and it is already fitted with the "vortex" type, so its this normal for these engines I wonder ? Oil is weeping from various joints, which suggest crankcase pressure is high.
It starts OK, but runs a bit "lumpy" for about five seconds, then runs fine, so could this be a piston rings/compression problem ?
There is also a tappet type noise from the top end when engine has warmed up. Quiet when cold.
Would be good to have something to compare it to, as I don't want to start pulling it apart already.
Viscous unit working fine, and the rest seems to be just maintenance, so quite pleased with it really. Apart from the cost of the road tax ! Not bad for £1200
300tdi with ZF auto box into 2.25 with LT77
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
We have got a dead Tdiauto Discovery here that I could take some photos of. Trouble is that its behind a few other dead vehicles at the moment, and surrounded by nettles.
I can try at the weekend if no one else comes up with anything