smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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3.5 is a good engine (no liner issues as you will well know).
With regards to the rocker shafts + wear .... are the rocker arms on the different engines of the same material ..... I thought (from memory and I'm regularly wrong) .... that some engines had steel rocker arms and some ally... (although I think there are some steel aftermarket Fedral Mogul ?? (spelling) steel ones that can be fitted. hence the wear on the rockers tends to be hidden and actually is on the end of the rocker where the ball from the pushrod sits and it forces its way upwards over time .... hence some people fitting steel ones to eliminate this issue. I think it can masquerade as tappet rattle, but everyone seems to recommend shimming the lifters, or using adjustable pushrods and then theres the Rhoads (spelling??) anti-pump / bleed lifters.
The biggest single problem I had with mine (3.5 su's + LPG) was the rotor arms and it didn't matter who's I used they all started tracking sometimes with stranding consequences hence I kept WD40 + a spare rotor arm to get me out of being stuck as I once was in the middle or nowhere norfolk. I blame a mixture of LPG (resistance to spark or allowing the spark to travel), hot engine (LPG + fuel mixture) albeit mine was WBO2 tuned and sat on 14.7:1 except under deceleration or / decel. where the poppet valve on the butterflies gave a nice decel backfire rumble via tubular manifolds. Hence distributor was always the one thing I wanted to get rid of, just my 2p (tin hat at the ready)
In the depths of major conversion (very long running)
If you've got three sat there + time, then no harm, and it's advocated as a higher volume oil pump arrangement so go for it.
That is why I have stuck to the 3.5 block. Lord knows I have had enough of them, and have never had one fail.
With regard to the rocker pushrod set wear, it is not something I have had a particular problem with. They DO wear for sure, but I think this a something that happens to every make of pushod engine, but they seem to last for a high and acceptable milage. I imagine it WOULD be a problem with high lift cams and strong valve spring loads though !
I do not think that "steel" rockers were EVER a factory fit ?
I also do not think shimming rocker pedestals is a good thing either, as IMO it upsets proper geometry. Ideally what is needed is a selection of different pushrod lengths, like they used to do in the USA. failing that, a far better solution would be to skim the bottom of the pedestals, or shorten the valve stems. Depending on what way you needed to go of course. Although obviously this is not really a DIY fix !
Distributors really are a nightmare I agree, but mostly its the amplifier playing up. Or the rotor arm. Or everything else !
I really dont trust LPG on the bigger bore engines, as if its set up wrongly it will aggravate any possible liner problems by running too hot, and most people are entirely in the hands of whoever is supplying/fitting it. Hard to do with a distributor too, as it has a completely different ignition requirement I understand.
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Steel rockers are a complete waste of money, don't even think about it.
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I bought a set years ago but never fitted them. They are still in a box here. I thought they were far too heavy, and in any case, I dont think they are actually "steel", which implies a one piece casting/forging, but sintered iron. I tried grinding some casting flash off them, and the sparks were a bit erm.......dull and lazy ? More like when you try to grind cast iron as opposed to proper steel, if you know what I mean ?
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Sorry guys, I should have expanded on this a bit first................
I am NOT doing this to try and gain power or torque. I have three engines in bits on the floor ATM so its not any hassle really. I am making a stopgap engine to keep the vehicle on the road while I sort out the engineering for an engine swap I am doing.
I am building it all into a 3.5 and the whole point of the exercise is NOT to spend any money it. Apart from some gaskets, but I want to keep the engine afterwards, so would like the best combination of parts.
As much as would like Megasquirt, I just dont have the money for it, so I am going to run it on the old AFM (Flapper) Efi which IMO is superior to the Hotwire system which I am also junking because it costs too much to do anything with it.
One thing I have noticed though, is that the rocker shafts on the later engines have negligable wear. Certainly no steps worn into the shafts by the rockers, even at high milage. Wobder if this is coincidence, or due to better oil pressure ?
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I wouldnt have thought a swirl pot is necessary, just a restricted return. I looked at the one in my factory V8 a couple of weeks ago and IIRC the hole was about 2mm. Didnt take THAT much notice though.
As diesel is a bit more viscous, try it at 3mm as you say ?
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I have ALL the parts needed, so thats not a problem, but is it worth converting an older V8 to the later crank driven oil pump ? (intermediate type WITH distributor)
Is there any benefit to it ? Or indeed the whole conversion to the serpentine belt arrangement ?
I do like the idea of less load on the distributor gear !
If so, I have read that the rotors can break, but could this be caused/agravated by using 20/50 oil, when i guess the later engines should be run on thinner grades ?
Or is it a complete waste of time ?
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Celeste Hoffmann Sales manger. I wonder how many guys have bought sawing machines they dont really need ?
Interesting vid though, and I want one of those..............
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Why not consider Tungsten Carbide hard plate drill bits...Very similar to a masonary bit, but the tungsten carbide tip is ground to a very sharp edge.
That set from Triple X trading looks good...................
Seriously though, I bought some cobalt bits from Toolstation of all places. I dont know the content, but they were cheap, and they sell individual sizes. I needed to make some holes in a 3mm stainless plate and they went through no problem at all.
Probably not a lifetime investment, but if you only want them for one job.....................
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Limit/parking switch in the wiper motor I would guess.
I dont know what a Disco one is like, but random parking is a common problem on an Astra G and dead easy to repair if its similar. Loads of info on the net about repairing the Astra, so check it out. Might help ?
When I did mine I found it strangely satisfying to do............to repair a sealed for life thing that CAN'T be repaired !
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The RHD P38 box sits on the outside of the chassis as standard. The RRC, Disco and Defender sit in the inside and are more bulky.
I have never seen the chassis on a 101 so cant help much....................
Another one you might look at is from a Vauxhall Omega B...........Holden something or other there I guess ?
That sits on the inside of the frame but is less bulky. It would certainly be up to the job !
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The trick with the V8 oil change is to NOT drain the sump and remove the filter at the same time. Drain the sump and refill THEN change the filter.
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It should move quite freely, so I would look at that.
Another thing might be an air leak in the air hoses. Turbo to intercooler to inlet manilfold.
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Common mistake is to get the fuel feed and return hoses the wrong way round on the engine.
A weak spark ? Are you running the ignition coil through some sort of ballast or resistor
Its a very long time since I have played with a pre TDi electrical system, but I seem to remember that on the back of the ignition switch on the column, there is a terminal that gives 12v FROM the switch when the key is off, but cuts out when the ignition i turned on.
I might be thinking of an old 2.5 petrol though, but I dont know where you are getting your feeds from so it might be worth checking ?
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Wastegate stuck open ? Mouse nest in the air filter ?
Dont laugh.............years ago myself and my uncle tried for hours to sort out the lack of power on an old Austin he had. Didnt look at the air filter because he had only changed it the week before. Took the assembly off but didnt look inside it ! Eventually, when we took it apart, it had sucked a whole plastic carrier bag into the housing..........................sorted
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Just to clarify............Is this something you have just installed, or has it already been running in the vehicle ?
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For remote area use I would go for 200 Tdi every time. But age does weary them and the years condemn. Especially with lack of oil changes and rubbish oil filters.
300 Tdis are OKish but have a poorly designed cooling system. The water pump either leaks or lets go and you only have to run them a couple of minutes like that and the cylinder head will be toast. I know you are not trusting your life to it like if you were crossing a desert alone and with no communication, but its not worth the hassle if you cannot quickly fix it.
A 200 Tdi with regular oil changes and GOOD filters...........even more important with the diesel filter and timing belt service will go on, and on, and on.
Or a 3.5 petrol V8 on SU carbs, if the milage is low and petrol available and not too expensive.
Fairly inexpensive spares kit would be good, as would putting a few miles on it here before it is shipped out.
As others have said, look at what the locals have and use..................but remember always what my late father told me.
"Everything is reliable. Until it breaks down. As anything that is mechanical surely will"
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Soren. I do not know why either. Maybe its because they are japanese. Or maybe because THEY say there is no bottom end torque.........
I have only seen one here, not far from me actually, but it is a very unsatisfactory conversion IMO.
De Ranged. I deliberately DONT want to use a Surf transfer box because of the high rear output and propshaft angles. If I had a long wheelbase vehicle i think it would be acceptable, but as the setup is also longer, this would make the propshaft even shorter ! Also, the ratio is 1.1, which would make the overall gearing too high with my big wheels I fear.
I thought about using a Landcruiser transfer box (80 model ?) which would be better, but these do not have a brake on them AFAIK, and more importantly, they seem to be rarely available here and outrageously expensive. To me anyways
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Unknowns ? Really almost impossible to answer with Land Rover. They are all different. Could be anything and everything ! The other factor is your expectaions, skill levels, and whether you will work on it yourself or pay someone else to do it................
Assuming its a hobby vehicle and not a daily driver, as Lewis has said look at the chassis and bulkhead, as this is what will likely keep the vehicle off the road for long periods, and be expensive if you have to pay someone to fix it
All the rest is bolt on and easily (relatively) fixable. They do need a lot of ongoing maintainance though, so will never be a "cheap" vehicle to run
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You will get what they are proposing and sooner or later our little culture of modding will be resigned to the history books.
Just remember this, the wheels of big business and need greasing and it needs money, they need your money so get creative in dreaming up ways of taking it off you in taxes.
Sadly I fear you are right. Its just a matter of time. And this one of the many, many reasons why I think we should get out of the EU.
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Not Land Rover, but I bought a new "cartridge" for one of my Astras two years ago from a certain auction site. Came from Lithuania and cost £89 all in. Fitted no problem at all and has been fine for the last 30k miles................
If thats any help ?
I would do it again without question, unless the turbo housing is cracked or broken of course, but I dont think anyone would accept it for exchange in any case ?
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I am going through the options of how best to install a Lexus 1UZFE engine and its gearbox or an alternative, and in order to do this without reinventing the wheel, the easist option would be to shorten the rear prop around 100mm.
I dont really WANT to do this, as I know they really are better off being as long as possible, but I just wondered what the general opinion was and whether i would get away with it
Basically, the major problem with physically fitting it all is that the friggin steering box is too tall and bulky.
The other option would be to change the steering for something else. A P38 setup maybe, but of course this would one modification too far for the insurance people I would imagine.
I know it will eat up joints more often, but i guess i could always carry a spare prop !
Mike, I have not put a tape measure on it yet, but thanks for the info !
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Now I know the correct answer to this is actually NOTHING, but how much do you guys think i could sensibly get away with in shortening a rear propshaft on a 90 ?
Unfortunately my gearbox seems to be growing in length.
Unless I can find a less bulky steering box setup and all that it entails, a shorter propshaft would seem the lesser of the two evils
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Also the panhard rod to chassis bracket is slightly different IIRC ?
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Yep. Agree wholeheartedly.
That said, I loath the tdci dashboard.
Glad its not just me..................That would be my reason for NOT buying one.
Forget about what year it is, buy what you like best and buy on condition, and the condition that suits YOU.
You could buy something a lot older, but has had lots spent on it, and may well be in better condition that either of those two !
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Could you do me a favour and re type your post in pre computer age 'English' ?
Absolutely right but the desire has to be there. You could probably fool a BECM into thinking it was connected to anything or even make a a really cut down bog standard BECM in a PIC.
I can see where Mr Van Snorkle is coming from.................All these acronyms, its all gobbledygook to me too. I cant even understand basic stuff, let alone anything complicated. If anyone tries to teach anything they just rush on through assuming that everyone knows what they are talking about. Rather like maths at school, where you didnt understand something and got left behind because you did not have a good grasp of the basics, and so lost interest.
Personally, while all these aids like traction control, radar braking and the like are no doubt good for an easy and more comfortable driving experience, what happens when they fail ? As surely they must as nothing lasts for ever, and the driver finds they are not quite as good as they thought................The best analagy I can give is what used to happen at school during woodwork classes. You were not allowed to use the morticing maching UNTIL you could do it by hand, and was not allowed to use a calculator in maths until you could do mental arithmatic............And then theres the expense, and even a diagnostic facility does not guarantee that the faulty electronic gizmo can be found easily, as many people will testify having still been charged for said items which have NOT fixed the fault.
One spring longer than the other?!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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60mm is a LOT to be different. I would take them off and put them side by side and see if they are a similar length.
Standard ones may (or may not) be 15 to 20mm different, but any more than that means there is a problem.
If they ARE a similar length, thewn look at the spring seats on the axle and chassis. Its not entirely unknown for them to collapse.
Yellow spring peeps do lift kits with longer springs too, maybe yours have got mixed up somewhere along the line ?