smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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All factory fit lifters for Rover V8s used to come from one company in USA. Grand Rapids, Michigan state. They also supplied GM and Ford.
A lot of what Turners(and everyone else) sells now is carp. Mainly because you cannot get decent stuff from original manufacturers (note I did not state OEM) any more, as volumes are too low for them to be bothered. This is also true of Tdi stuff, and one of the main reasons why I cant be bothered with the Rover V8 any more.
A good set of lifters will cost you a couple of hundred quid nowadays, its no good buying a set for £60 and expecting them to be good. Ain't going to happen. I am not even sure where the likes of Piper or Kent Cams get theirs either. They will not tell you, I have asked. Only ones that I can think of is INA, but there are probably others. They actually manufacture them in their own factories. A lot of brands are a just a distributor, who buy them in from wherever and rebrand them in their own name, like a lot of stuff these days.
Real Steel at Uxbridge used to do good ones at a reasonable price that were USA sourced, but TBH, I have not bought any from them for a few years now, so I dont know if they still do them. They still sell Rhoads lifters, but as said, they are designed to leak down at low revs, and they will do your head in if you are using thin oil. You should be using mineral 20w50 anyway, NOT synthetic, or even semi synthetic.
Apart from material crappiness and slopply tolerances, one of the main causes of this is oil. This engine was designed and built before the advent of synthetic oils, and one of the constituent components in the oil, was a substance called zincsomethingorother. ZDDP for short, and this is what protected flat tappet high load cams such as these. You can buy ZDDP additive from Real Steel
It is not used in more up to date oils because of nanny state rules, bad for butterflies etc, and I am convinced this is a major part of the problem. While running Rover V8s, I always used a 20W50 SHPD diesel engine mineral oil, which had a good level of ZDDP in it, and probably still does if you ask the manufacturer of your choice for the spec. I never remember having a problem with lifters or camshafts, apart from the normal Rover V8 of them wearing out in about 70k miles or so.
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Did you find out why you were run out of town at the other place ?
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I used to use the big one at work when I worked in the Agricultural and Plant Industry. When I left, I missed it so much, I bought a new hot water one made by Gerni. I think they have something to do with Nilfisk. It cost about £1100, but that was 22 years ago. Its still going strong, and has never broken down. I do NOT lend it, or let anyone else use it, because everyone wants to borrow it, but no wants wants to pay for it when it goes wrong.
I dont use it that often, and suppose you might regard it as a luxury, but once you have one, messing about with a cold washer is a waste of time on comparison. It another of things like a welding machine, I dont know how anyone can get through the day without one.
I normally spray on a biodegradable degreaser and let it soak for a bit before washing
Brake cleaner is OK but very messy and polluting, causing rapid global warming and killing Polar Bears. So I only use this for small stuff or for stuff that needs painting.
Dont forget that whatever method you use, there will be some sort of pollution.
I feel you might be disappointed with the Machine Mart one. It might produce 145 bar, but at a very low flow rate, because to get the water up to 80 deg AND have a decent flow rate, the burner has to be quite big. Got to be better than a cold one, but a lot of money for something that is unsatisfactory. I would want a demo first.
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All this may be worth more than you think. The engine complete will probably fetch £100 - £150, but sell it in bits and you will get a lot more if you are prepared to post it. Most people nowadays are too bone idle to travel, so if it can be posted, you will get more.
Is it a vee belt or serpentine engine ? If its a serpentine engine with a distributor, the front end bits are sought after. Injection system and manifold are still sought after, probably £150 or more, exhaust manifolds, engine mount brackets still sell, I have just sold a pair of cast exhausts for £40.
Can even sell the block for a coffee table project. All depends if you can be bothered.
If the autoboxes are not electronic, they will sell for £200 plus complete with TC, electronic ones a lot less.
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19 minutes ago, Mossberg said:
How much is a Maer bulkhead? I tried to look on their site but it's saying £1,499 including vat but delivery extra. The confusing bit is that it says stainless steel but goes on to say grade s355.
It is not SS like you are thinking, its something in the translation. It looks like they are hot zinc sprayed, and not hot dipped.
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8 hours ago, Peaklander said:
I have used Smith & Allan's SHPD 15W-40 for a number of years although the most recent 20 litres is Endura T3 15W-40 which they say is a just re-brand.
I think that 'water' is just a thinner film at that part of the dipstick, possibly caused by pulling of the oil by the dipstick end / bulb thing, as it moves up the tube. Not sure but it can't be suspicious as I only drained the sump three weeks ago.
Thats interesting. ISTR reading something about their "Ultra" range being the new SHPD oil, which I use in my old Astra (260K) and Combo, two old Ford Tractors, and a mini digger, all with no problems. Well, not oil related anyway! Also used it in all the Rover V8s I have had too.
A while ago I thought I would upgrade to a fully synthetic 5W40 because it was "better", and on offer, but went back to the mineral oil because the Vauxhalls and the mini digger engines started to burn oil, which they did not before. You could even smell it burning. Changed back, and all back to normal !
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On 9/29/2022 at 8:52 AM, Peaklander said:
We are at roughly 300 miles now and it is finally visible on the stick. If I was paranoid though I’d be worried about the oil at the bottom of the dip not being as dark as that at the top. 😳
I wouldn't worry about that, it's probably just dirty water !
Seriously though, that IS a bit odd. What oil did you use BTW ?
My oils in the older stuff always turn black in a couple of hundred miles or so, even though I tend to change it at no more than 6k miles (I dont believe in this 20k plus nonsense) But this is probably because it is what you did back in the day, and learned behaviour that I cannot get out of !
For those too young to remember the pre late 70s, early 80s, engine oils did not have the detergents/dispersants in them that modern oils have, and it was very common to find your sump had an inch or so of almost rock hard sludge in the bottom, that had to be almost chiselled out. Removing the sump and cleaning it was a regular maintenance feature. Modern oils, especially diesel oils, are supposed to hold the "dirt" in suspension, hence it turns black quickly after a change.
However, it is important not to "over spec" your oil, because very modern engines have very different requirements to older ones. As an example, I have a ten year old Renault Trafic which has a DPF and cat, and the oil spec for this is to Ren 720 and C4, with threats of dire consequences if anything else is used. This does not seem inclined to turn black, even after a few thousand miles. It is slightly darker now, but nowhere near black. I cant help wondering if the sump will have sludge in the bottom !
Must have the chat with the tech peeps at Smith and Allan about this.
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7 hours ago, cackshifter said:
If the war were to end tomorrow, I doubt anyone would buy Russian gas at least for a while, so the price of gas is likely to remain high even if not at current levels.
I believe many European countries will buy it at the drop of a hat, maybe even here in the UK, given all the political unrest surrounding energy prices, and the fact that most people now seem to be expecting the government to pay their energy bills. I really do not understand what they are thinking, because it all has to paid for, somewhere along the line. But maybe if we just ignore this fact, the problem will go away.
I would hope that if this is done, along with dropping sanctions, is only after a regime change. I am not holding my breath !
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4 hours ago, landroversforever said:
The Jaguar state hearse was used later on. But does it actually matter? There was a line of Range Rovers behind it anyway.
Actually, I feel it does matter. HRH liked her LRs, they could have used the one Prince Philip designed. At least could have made a British made vehicle, even though the company were foreign owned.
Something else annoyed me too. When they had the overnight stop in Scotland, there were TV crews outside filming. I dont know if the three security people on the gate were actually Police, or security company staff, but one was leaning on the railings looking as his/her phone, another was kicking gravel around with his hands in his pockets like a bored teenager, and the other was leaning on the wall, with a vape or cigarette going. I dont think they realised they were being filmed, but later on in another shot, they were standing, and paying proper attention to what was going on.
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I have delivered to a couple of houses that had geothermal heating. Seems ideal, very uncomplicated, and works rain or shine (or dark) only uses a small amount of electricity I understand.
Anyone got any experience ?
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7 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Police don't spend time on chasing motoring paperwork anymore since the internet came along and DVLA are able to directly control everything end to end and there's an insurance database. Unless there is some evidence it's a stolen car or someones commiting fraud then maybe, but looking at an ebay ad won't make it past the round file in the corner of the front office. These shonky cars should be getting picked up by the eyes-on section of dvla, MoT inspectors, but doesn't seem to be a process and if you put historic plates on you don't need to go for mot anyway. It's a big loophole, but its also one that in a way stops us having the strict rules of many EU countries that stop most modifications, so maybe we shouldn't poke too hard..
Of course you are right, but having had vehicles stolen in the past, it really gets my goat.
As an aside, only last night we had a visit from two blokes in balaclavas looking in the three vans on our drive. Nothing of much value in them, so I dont even bother locking them, as it would cost a lot more to fix broken into doors, than replace half a socket set or one jump lead. Dog frightened them off when they attempted to come round the back of the house. Got good CCTV footage of them though. Police not interested as usual.
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1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:
I'm fascinated that people need to keep there homes at 20 degrees C in the winter! Our CH is set at 16 degrees C for the winter, off on a night, with just the block work round the fire retaining warmth for the morning.
We live in a mid sixties bungalow of four bedrooms, with a hoofin gert extension. If anyone is cold, then they get to put on a jersey or pull up a cat - same as in bed, put a fleece blanket over the duvet. The kids have grown up like that, I grew up without the CH bit, so regulalry scraped ice off the inside of my bedroom window. The wife is menopausal so is never cold; and in fact can warm a room.
As and when I pay off the mortgage, there will be a wood burner going in the sitting room, and in my office (that will be a very small one)
Eeeee, and we had Hovis for us tea 😁
This is exactly what we do, except when the woodburner is on, its too hot !
When I was a kid we had no CH either, and my dear Mum would not have a coal fire any more because of the mess, and the fact that my Dad expected it to be on when he got up for work ! He learned some new words that he had never heard before from Mum, despite having been in the Army !
I too remember ice, and the puddles of condensation on the inside of my bedroom window. Also took my school clothes to bed, so they were warmish and damp free in the morning.
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3 hours ago, Snagger said:
…. Socialism - it’s a criminal mindset.
I nearly choked on my tea ! Thats a bit strong ! Misguided and flying in the face of basic human nature, but not actually criminal, surely ?
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9 hours ago, pat_pending said:
Good man.
Did you receive a reply? I didn't.
Unsurprisingly, I did not get a reply from the seller either.
No feedback from the Police as yet, but I am not holding my breath !
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HEAR HEAR. Dont know what to add really. I am actually quite upset
Kept her promise of service right to the end.
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3 minutes ago, steve b said:
I was under the impression that smart meters allowed suppliers to hike unit cost up in peak use times and possibly reduce unit price during low use. A bit like economy 7 but with multiple high and low charge periods during a 24 hr cycle .
Maybe that is still to come ?
I'm well aware of unit use for any given item - it's not complex maths after all.
Steve
I guess they could do that, and as you say, probably on its way.
We have one, and it is supposed to be able to be read remotely, but that doesnt work. Will not save you any money of its own accord, but you can see your own consumption, and the rest is up to you.
We have a woodburner, and a small wood ! This however backs onto a much larger bit of woodland, so effectively all our fuel for it is free, apart from the work involved in collecting and cutting. SWMBO also cooks on it in the winter, and we heat water on it too, so TBH, for the time being, the cost of fuel does not affect us too much.
We have an oil boiler for central heating and hot water, but never use the heating, just the hot water heating in the summer when its too warn for the woodburner to be lit. I put 2000 litres in the tank in February 2019, and there is still more than half left.
Electric bill is getting worse though, as we have the electric cooker and kettle, plus the usual lights, TV etc.
Only got old fashioned four inches of loft insulation that the mice top up with leaves etc, but with the woodburner on, its too hot in winter.
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I sent the seller an email asking for an explanation. Listing now pulled.
I have also informed the Police, because I can think of no plausible reason to do it, other than to either clone it, or disguise a stolen vehicle.
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It does not look like it has been rebuilt to me. Probably the Series 3 the chassis number belongs to was issued with a Q plate and has since died.
Stick the Q plate on a ringer and it could be anything at all. Cheap way to disguise them, and arouses no suspicion, because a Q plated vehicle will have been messed about with, and not be what it appears.
Even if the Police or DVSA went over it, unless ALL the axle, gearbox, transfer box, and engine numbers are tied to one vehicle, they cannot prove anything.
Why am I even bothered about running about on a tax exempt plate, or building a 100 inch ? Seems to be just do as you like.
I saw another one that I was going to post on here, but cant find it now.
Looks like the sky high price bubble has well and truly burst too !
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Another one, not too far away £150 handy for spares ?
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As I recall, having had a couple years ago, they are lifetime guaranteed again manufacturing defects, but not fair wear and tear.
So if you think you will get a nice new one after six or seven years or more, forget it.
I believe five years is about the best guarantee you will get nowadays, which is just about the expected lifetime.
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Being devils advocate again, any battery powered vacuum is not going to have the grunt of a corded one, and there is the expense of it.
Why not buy a Henry/George/Alfred/Tristram or whatever to keep in the garage or shed and buy a 10 metre hose for it ( I have got two 5m hoses joined) bags are cheap too if you buy from Costco in bulk.
Mine is green, and will suck water too. Very handy.
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One here, but is it worth the risk ?
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Repair what you have. Better the devil you know.
We all know how it goes. Buy another engine (and box) because it appears to be the cheapest and easiest option, but then, after spending a lot of time chasing one down, buying it, plus travelling (cost and time) to get it, then fitting it, only to find that its "disappointing"...... Thats if you can resist the temptation to "just" take the head off to check it over before fitting, and then spending yet more money. Money and time that you "saved" by doing it this way.
Plus you end up with yet another dead lump cluttering up your life.
The likelihood of getting a nice low mileage, genuinely excellent condition 200 Tdi is now quite slim, and the lesson is, you should have kept the rusty one that you had in your front garden !
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4 hours ago, Anderzander said:
There are a pair of axles in Wickford I’d like to buy - which they won’t run a quote from Shipley for …
A 70 mile round trip is more than I’d want to ask for though.
I have to go to Towcester next week to pick up a tractor engine, so its not that far out of my way, but that will put them even farther away from you, unless I can drop them somewhere near Milton Keynes/Towcester ? What sort of axles are they ? If I can get them in the Micra, it will not be too much of a problem.
V8 lifter problem
in International Forum
Posted
IMO you are still better off with a mineral 20W50, even with the later crank driven pump. Its more about tolerances and whats in the oil rather than ability to lift.
Crank driven pump is for sure MUCH better. Even though the pump lobes are much smaller, it is running at twice the speed of the old cam/distributor driven pump.
Then there is all that load on the little distributor gear and shaft, especially on cold winter starts. Eeek.