[Tight 300Tdi]

11 hours ago, miketomcat said:

Yes you can put oil in through the injector holes but turn it over slowly after as you can hydraulic it if you add to much. Try using ATF as it's nice and thin but also has rust eating properties.

Mike

I have just done this on an old Fordson engine. It was a little bit stiff to turn over and had very little compression (this is a story in itself ending with no eyelashes and eyebrows) but it worked. Left for a week, it started almost immediately, and now had lots of compression.

However, I do not like disturbing the injectors or seals, so always apply the ATF with a syringe and piece of pipe via the inlet and/or exhaust ports after removing the manifolds.

Did you try turning it over during the rebuild ? Was it stiff then ? Rebuilt or new engines are harder to turn than well used ones.  

[Help with an onboard Road / Off Road Sat Nav !]

14 hours ago, JeffR said:

My favourite GPS:

 

Hardware:

 

Not so software:

 

Got me coat and leaving quickly.....

 

My favourite also. I believe that anyone who cannot read a map, should not be allowed out on their own.

Still to much tech to go wrong though, your pen could dry up, and you might lose your specs ....... or sit on them !

[Car violently jolts when not under load]

What sort of RPM is the engine turning when this happens ? If it is getting down to 12 - 1300 RPM it will be doing exactly what TSD has suggested.

My little diesel Combo van will do this, when I get down to about 18MPH in third and fourth, coasting either on the flat or slightly downhill, and what make it even worse is that the jerking makes your foot move slightly on the throttle pedal. It is overgeared though, as I changed the gearbox and diff. Did not do this before. 

For me, the solution is to change down a gear. This is another reason I love Autos !

[300Tdi Power steering - system bleeding after fitting a new steering box]

ISTR a bleed nipple, like the ones on brake calipers on the top cover of the steering box ? Maybe not all had them. 

[TD5 Radiators]

Again I guess this is for the M57 installation ? I dont know what exact model you are fitting it to, but be aware that the TD5 rad fits direct to the front crossmember as it is slightly taller than the older types, and does not sit on top of two brackets. You will need the intercooler too, and the standard TD5 one will be fine, unless you want to do a huge power increase.

Personally, I see these Ali radiators as unnecessary bling. A Nissens/Valeo/ERF etc will be better quality AND will have a guarantee that can actually be claimed.

I also hate gaily coloured silicone hoses 

[Bradbury 4 post lift needs to be secured in thebottom?]

What about tie beams at the TOP of the posts, forming a square, not diagonally, hopefully obviously. Bolt them if possible.

Then just weld some bar between the four bases.

 

Another good solution would be to sell it to me for 100 Euros, delivered 😁 Save all that bother.

[Front diff to cope with the power of an M57]

1 hour ago, Snagger said:

That’s a though that brings me much pleasure.

Not nearly as much as it does me !

[Front diff to cope with the power of an M57]

Cheapest option would be a four pin diff centre.

You should hang your head in shame converting to diesel (or a bigger diesel) at this time.  Mr Kahn t will be choking on his breakfast. And the fumes.

Using the 6HP26 I guess ? If you have not bought the gearbox already, dont make the mistake of buying one from a car. You need one from an X5 or X3. 

[Rover V8 Trumpets]

You should only be using neutral cure silicone sealers on mechanical stuff anyway. This does NOT contain acetic acid (Acetoxy cure) which is really only meant for building applications. It is also cheaper, and does not adhere as well as neutral cure stuff to metals.

All proper RTV silicone sealers for automotive use are neutral cure, except blue Hylomar which was Acetoxy, (smells of vinegar) last time I smelt it, which TBH was years ago.

[Discovery II Heater Problem]

Also, a product like Radweld or Barrs Leaks can cause this. I would avoid using it at all costs, except in a dire emergency. Like stranded in central Africa for example.

I have found that using it will ultimately end up costing more than a tow home.

[New rear body tubs]

24 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

You need to be sitting down when you view the price list, more expensive than a galvanised chassis !!!

Regards Stephen

I must confess that I could not even consider it. I would want the rest of the Land Rover with it for that sort of money.

[Rover V8 Trumpets]

33 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Are you sure? I thought JB weld was one of those super-useful fixes that's also almost always the wrong answer for whatever it's used for?

To be honest Fridge, it has been the right answer for whatever I have used it for. It has always exceeded my expectations.

I wouldnt use it for anything structural, but I cannot think of anything that I have used it for, and it has failed. The automotive things I have used it for include are gluing a mounting lug on a gearbox bellhousing, building up a thermostat housing and water outlet, sleeving up a steel hose outlet to take it from 14mm to 19mm using a bigger tube. Sticking a broken alternator mounting lug on a tractor. All have been done a few years despite me expecting them to fail.

I have pieced together a 75 year old toilet pan with it, including under the water line, handle on a saucepan, handles back on broken mugs.

[New rear body tubs]

I dont know if you are all aware of this company, so apologies if you are. Might be an option for some, but with values appearing to be falling, could be a non starter.

Defender Rear Tubs

 

 

[Rover V8 Trumpets]

Clean and key the surfaces and JB weld. Make sure any porting is done first though, as they will be extremely difficult to remove afterwards.

[Testing New Forum Works]

4 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Found the egg beater video very interesting, where do I get some of that oil for my axles please regards Stephen

So its advertising then ?

[2010 2.4 Landy 90 has power loss and I don't know what's causing it]

22 hours ago, steve b said:

Is the replacement MAF sensor genuine? I've had OEM MAF sensors that are out of spec when new. 

Steve

I can also vouch for this given past experience.

[2010 2.4 Landy 90 has power loss and I don't know what's causing it]

I would also try unplugging all the sensors and senders, and spraying contact cleaner on them, blowing dry with compressed air, and reconnecting.

Could be damp or dirt, or even oil from a leak ingress. Never know your luck and its free, more or less.

Just what you need now the cold weather is here, and traditionally, your Land Rover will be out of action when you could do with it most !  

[Chieftain Range Rover - anyone come across them?]

I hate three spokes. On anything.

I still think the RR classic is the best looking of all the Range Rovers, and the most practical.

[Chieftain Range Rover - anyone come across them?]

I wonder if they are trying to retain the original registration and tax exemption...........

[RV8 camshaft timing mark]

The V8 with vee belts and a distributor did not have a locating plate. The disributorless engines (GEMS and Thor) did have one, but they were fitted to later vehicles.

The engines with a wide polyvee belt (Serpentine) I cant remember TBH, but I dont think it did.

[Any ideas?]

1 hour ago, Stambecco said:

Yes I have replaced the fuel filter. I can't see signs of any leaks but i will look yet again. There must be a leak somewhere. Would diesel come out of the same place air is getting in?

Not necessarily, but might show as a slight weep.

If vehicle has been left for a while, I would have a look at the fuel hoses on top of the tank. Mice might have been nibbling.

[Is MS still the answer?]

This is true. Years ago when I was into Minis and the A series engine, I used a long gone company here in Kent for rolling road tuning. The old (as he seemed to me then) guy said that although you can tune an engine on a rolling road to get the figures, you cant beat doing it on the road, as every vehicle is different.

[Engine help, what would you do?]

11 hours ago, Gazzar said:

Agreed, quality hasn't improved, unfortunately.

Indeed. This is the problem with any "older" vehicle mechanical work nowadays. Once the vehicle falls off of the radar of mainstream OE manufacturers, we are left with items from variable quality suppliers, the quality generally varying downwards. I dont see this situation ever improving either.

Take Turner Engineering as an example, exemplary as their machining and processes may be, they too are left at the mercy of lower quality parts, which will affect their reputation ultimately.

[Engine help, what would you do?]

I would just put it all back together. Those bearings look new, more or less. I would not even bother to change the rings if they are as good as that.

If Turners will not sell just piston rings, don't buy there. If you must change them, plenty of places that do. Stick to a well known brand AE, Grant, Goetz. Same with gaskets and seals.

Its not a racing car. How much will you actually use it ? At the end of the day, its your decision and money !

[Wheel fitment question, thanks in advance.]

On 11/6/2022 at 10:55 AM, Snagger said:

older men and many women.

Bloody cheek !