mickeyw

Not so long ago I came across a single 23 spline AVM hub on eblag for very little £. Needed it for my X-Deflex ARB that I bought second hand. The PO had taken it apart and lost all the innards! Like you say they are rather spendy for a new pair, especially if you only want one.

Got a bit more floor painted/treasure moved from A to B and B to C and so on over recent evenings. Areas done now have two coats, and the cracks have had a good quantity of paint poured into them. It certainly seems to have glued all the loose bits in place rather well. While it is all still clean I wondered about simply gunning some sealant into the cracks. It should remain flexible, and less likely to come out, unlike a thin bead of cement. Hopefully it will also prevent a tonne of carp ending up stuck in there. What do you think?

Nice thinking Barry. I wonder what rpm those pressure washer pumps run at. Anyway, I already have a small (only 14kg) petrol jet washer, and it's almost certainly using less fuel than a V8 would. It's the amount of water needed that I'd struggle with if I wanted to wash off on the play site.

Today's 'full fat' Range Rover is a truly massive car, even at access height. My Classic is absolutely dwarfed next to it, and even the 110 looks a little intimidated, Opening a door is like opening the side of a house!

That is madness! While it sounds a great idea on the face of it, how many have a battery/charge system that could cope with even 10 mins of running the winch motor for the briefest of washes? I hope the motor would be water cooled too, cos they do get hot when run continuously!

A quick update and some amusement to close this one off. As it turns out, contrary to what the owner had reported, the car did have a spare, and a full sized one at that. In fact there was everything you need to change a wheel – jack, wheel brace, chocks, locking wheel nut key, and an owner’s manual with comprehensive instructions! Yes we have taken the tiddle good and proper, like the merciless souls we are, and probably will continue to do so for months to come The 22” alloy with ZR 275/40 tyre is a massive beast to and looked to be a struggle to remove from the boot well. However there is a cleverly designed hoisting strap for helping lift the wheel up and out. If I get another chance I’ll take a photo of this, as I was impressed by its effectiveness and ease of use. The scissor jack is no show stopper, but does at least look up to the job, as long as you’re on level ground, not that I would ever recommend doing otherwise. The book said nothing about needing to lock the air suspension in any way, but in the interest of reducing the amount of jack winding we decided to raise the car up to full height first. For the record we had the boot open. Having driven the car home last night he reported no upsets were caused in the suspension. We also found that unless the boot and doors were closed we couldn’t raise the suspension height. This all makes good sense really, but always good to have proven a theory.

Certainly the more you can remove in dry lumps, the easier it is to clean up.

A swerve from my normal area of discussion here My MD has damaged a wheel rim on his big RR, and has arranged for a wheel refurb company to repair it. Our van driver is going to ferry the wheel to the repair shop, but first we need to get the wheel off. So, question of the day is what is the correct procedure for jacking the car, and leaving supported it without a wheel for a day or two? I am aware that care must be exercised to lift on the correct points, and that the suspension can get confused if one doesn't do things right. He has no jack, and no spare wheel. What kind of jack do these models have if one is supplied with the car?

No. Absolutely do not want any hassle on that scale Barry. Of course a brick built workshop with heating, and big enough to fit the 110 in would be most desirable

Well what a busy summer it's been, the new truck I bought turned out to need rather more work than expected (don't they all!), and has consumed a lot of time. Some progress to the workshop has been made though. I now have fully insulated and lined walls, although the ceiling has yet to be insulated. I also have plastic conduit all round with plenty of 240V sockets. On Friday I had a mass eviction of unwanted rubbish and made a surprising amount of space. Yesterday I dragged a load of carp from the corner the mill will eventually reside in, and had a thorough hoover and dust with a view to painting the floor. The concrete is old but fairly clean still, but does have a number of cracks running across it. Last night I got one coat down, then another this afternoon. The paint was Leyland floor paint in good ol' battleship shade. Th floor painting will be slow, and bit by bit. Here's a close up of one of the floor cracks. The concrete isn't super hard, and there are a lot of loose bits around the cracks. I tried pouring paint into the crack in an attempt to bond the loose bits. Time will tell how sucessful this will be, but I'm not overly hopefull. What products are there to deal with this kind of repair? I dont think filling with cement will last long, so I am expecting some kind of epoxy epair product???

Electrolytic corrosion between two dissmilar metals that are in direct contact. Birmabright - a much higher, tough quality grade of alloy than what is used now. Remember this was surplus material for aircraft manufacture! Series panels tended not to corrode anything like those of the coil sprung models. They also were far more resistant to knocks and bumps - they may have been a bit thicker than modern panels, which would have helped too. Bottom line cause of this evil IMO is cost!

You not feeling like swapping it all to the new truck?

I have a main isolator for the winch, and another isolator for the controls, both from permanent lives. A switched live for the controls may be better in that you can't forget to turn it off... Or possibly have both...

I needed to plasma cut some circles today, and seeing as my freehand cutting is extremely messy I wanted to use a radius template. I had previously though of making multiple radius templates, so consulted the internet. I know tools can be bought, but this requirement was spontaneous and far cheaper than anything I could buy. I can't claim this idea is mine, but here is my version, and it has worked very well, and only cost me half an hour of my time, so thought I'd share. Take one strip of 3mm steel, drill a few Ø8 (or size to suit the tip on your plasma torch) holes a regular known distance apart (1" in this case). Also drill and tap 4 M5 holes, 2 positioned 1/2" and 1" from the Ø8 hole at one end, and another 2 positioned 3/4" and 1 1/4" from the Ø8 hole at the other end. The tapped holes are the pivot positions. This particular tool can cut from R3/4" to R7" in 1/4" increments. I chose to stamp some markings beside each tapped hole for easy reference. Take an M5 screw, grind a point on the end add a locking nut and screw into the required tapped hole. Centre punch your hole centre, and hopefully these pictures explain the rest. A little more practice and I'll get a tidier finish I'm sure. BTW this was 1.5mm stainless. In case you are wondering, the folded box is a cover to protect my winch isolator that lives in the passenger footwell. My 3YO daughter has been using it as a step to get into her kiddie seat. Not only am I concerned about her damaging it, she might also 'kick' it on or off at the wrong moment.

My 'new' 110 V8 has an annoying habit of marking its territory, even more than most LR products I believe. The steel reservoir cannister seems to loose a considerable amount of oil every time I drive the truck, and even more so when driven off road. It always has a pool of oil around the screw top, which inevitably finds its way down the inner wing before ending up all over the steering box, chassis leg, steering arms and panhard rod, then down to wherever I park the truck. I have checked for damage to the lid and the neck of the can, the flat oil seal is present and looks and feels in good shape. My 90 used to have this type of can, and I upgraded to the later plastic version years ago due to the steel can always being rather wet, but it never leaked like the one on the 110 does. Does anyone else have such excessive leaks? Did you find out why these leak so badly? I expect I'll end up replacing it with another plastic one, but the presence of an integral filter makes an attractive feature.

Not if it is working OK I wouldn't have thought. My only reason for changing was the greater availability of second hand 4-bolt units.

Arrgghhh Cuth! Intermotor - a well known source of trouble. Nige (hybrid from hell) will go on about how good that brand is, lol. Do you remember the time you towed me back from Chichester? That was due to a brand new Intermotor coil

I've just done this conversion. The threads on the two steel pipes are the same.

Living close to a major international airport, we used to get airport parking cars left in our road for a couple of weeks or more. Parking was bad enough without these guys compounding the problem. I tried reporting them abandoned, but it wasn't so straight forward. If a car was taxed and looked legal, it had to have been there at least 14 days before the council would attempt to contact the owner, who then had 14 days to respond. If no response was obtained from the registered owner the car could then be removed. So the barstewards could be parked there for a month before anything could be done to remove them! We now have the local PCSO declaring war on the holiday parking companies who leave cars in residential roads. The crooks concerned are taking money from clients on the premise that their cars are being kept in secure compounds! It turns out that on the other side of town (read rougher) the residents deal with the situation in a more hands on way The problem there is that they seem to have 'dealt' with a few cars belonging to their neighbours too.

I got one of those for Christmas a year or two back. I haven't used it much yet though. I have to agree that it's when you're under a wheelarch that such a light is most useful, and yes, that is when it is most at risk from spatter. I think Si's use of a Maglite is probably best - the metal body might resist the spatter better.

I think it would fall into the same criteria as high wattage spot lights. They are normally sold "for off road use only", so what you do with it is up to you, but the product is not sold with any suggestion that it might be legal to use on the public highway. As Si said, having them bolted to the car is not an issue. However if you choose to blind an oncoming traffic or a cop car I would expect to find yourself in trouble.

I used a serp engine of similar vintage and origin. The tune resistor was well hidden, wrapped inside the loom. I removed it (was the catalyst spec white one, and swapped it for the non cat green version). I think the no resistor versions are US market models. There is good info on tune resistors here, also linked to on another thread on here by thecuth

Butyl tape comes in all sorts of widths and thicknesses. I bought 15mm x 3mm strip in a 12m roll. See eblag linky

That's coolant coolant temp sensor to the rest of us.

I've recently used black Butyl glazing strip to reseal my floor panels. It's very similar to Dum Dum to use. It sticks to the panel so you can position it, and then squeezes out the same as putty does, as you tighten the screws up. If you take a small length and kneed it into a ball, or a sausage shape, it can be pressed into all sots of gaps. I added some to the gap between the windscreen frame and top of bulkhead, then pushed the door seal over it. The water would certainly find its way behind the door seal without such a gap filler.