mickeyw

This is what I was going to say. I had this exact problem trying to bleed my clutch slave cylinder last weekend. Luckily the fluid got past the threads of the nipple rather than through it, otherwise I would have easily though something else was amiss. Another trick I have heard in the past is to pump the pedal up hard, then leave it wedged down with a lump of wood/brick/whatever you have to hand, and leave things to settle for a while before further bleeding attempts. Edit to add: I was able to clear the nipple with a small drill. After bleeding I fitted a dust cover - hopefully this will avoid a repeat performance in future.

Yes, but the body of the module is already earthed, so I am guessing it provides an earth connection to something else

Morning all. I'm just reassembling the underbonnet area of my 110 V8 and have found a wire that has become detached from one end. It connects to the earth tag on the side of the 2CE ignition module casing, but the other end goes to where??? There were a couple of nasty connector blocks in the wires feeding the 2CE, so it could easily have come from there, especially as it's about the right length for that. But which wire??? Hopefully someone on here will either know, or have a truck to look at for reference. TIA Edit: the ignition is not sparking, so I guess this wire must be important.

James I found exactly the same with the parabolics I had on my 88". I actually think they were more uncomfortable than the standard springs they replaced. With the std springs I mucked about removing the lower shorter leaves, 1 at a time. That made quite a good result, but I plumped for the paras, as the marketing machine would have you believe they were almost as good as coils for comfort. How far from the truth that was. I would take up the point Soren is making. The curvature of my parabolics was such that it lifted the truck a good inch or two. The shackles at the front were almost the wrong side of vertical. I had trouble getting the bolts in when the truck was up on stands. I daresay perhaps the spring effect is not so good in this geometry.

Fridge I found exactly the same thing last night when crimping 35mm sq winch motor cables.

I think for the relatively small tailgate straps, you would be OK using this hydraulic tool. However I would be hesitant to crimp a wire winch rope, as the dies in this kit are intended for a single strand, therefore round crimp. (Yes I realise it makes a hexagon crimp, but I hope you get my point). Two runs of winch cable would be more of a figure 8 or at least ovalled shape, and I wouldn't want to trust a tool designed for round crimping to produce a correct and secure enough joint for dangling my truck over a ravine.

I'm absolutely gutted for you Stephen, but very glad to hear you walked away with so little damage to yourself. Seeing that picture I would never have guessed the sequence of events you went through. As far as insurance goes, I guess the thing is to not let you push them around. I'll be very interested how you get on - I'm with NFU too

Well today I took my collection of needles and one pair of carb bodies to work, and had a close up look and measure of them with the shadowgraph projector. I have five needles, two B1FP (which is what should be fitted to a Landrover V8), one B1FQ, one B1FK and one B1FT, and guess what - as far as I can tell, they are all the same! I've no idea how much one version should differ from any other, Google doesn't seem to know. Anyone??? The other positive result is that the jets appear to be perfectly round and the same diameter. Looks like it just a pair of diaphragms and damper springs to order.

AFAIK the drop arm can only be fitted in one position on the steering box output shaft. As Jode said, find the centre of left to right movement and reposition the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. It can sometimes be easier to do this by moving the steering column shaft (the bit with universal joints in it) on the splines. But if you have the proper steering wheel puller then just move the wheel in the cab. If your car doesn't then drive straight, adjust the drag arm (the one in front of the axle). If the tyres still scrub, you need to adjust the track rod (behind the axle). There is an article in the tech archives about DIY tracking setup, or you can visit your local tyre centre and they can check it with professional equipment. A word of warning though - LR steering rod ends can be quite prone to seizing, thus making adjustment a right pain. I have had tyres centres refuse to adjust the tracking on my Range Rover, until I explained that the joints were all brand new and easy to adjust.

Thanks for that tip Pat, especially the ports being just one carb. Now you have said it, I can remember my 90 having these A & R pipes. The grey cells are ticking rather slowly these days It seems so long ago I took this all apart. More photos should have been taken.

Yes, I agree the SUs can be easier for maintenance, I changed to HIF 44s on my 90 when it was a 3.5. That said the Stromberg was considered to achieve marginally better emissions, and therefore economy. I have all the adjusting tools from 15 years ago, I don't get rid of much, lol. TBH I never had much trouble with the diaphragms. Seems it is hard to come by V8 carbs these days, unless you want to pay ££££ to RPI for new ones. This engine just needs to tide me over for a year or two while I overhaul a 3.9 serp lump, so I am trying to avoid unecessary expense.

Thanks for your link Josh. I actually have an original copy of that booklet. Unfortunately it only really covers the earlier adjustable jet variety of CD carb, and doesn't go into much detail of what port does what.

In the continuing effort to get my 110 V8 back together, I thought I'd give the carbs a check over. This has opened up another collection of crimes committed by garages and previous owners. The engine was fitted with an unmatched pair of carbs, and came with four 'spares' (alarm bells anyone? ) Anyhow I am trying to select parts from all six to make up a matched pair, and I think two of the spares may be the originals, but I'm still finding different needles fitted to each one/ In choosing carb bodies to use I need to understand more about the various ports present. Now I know that carbs are a dying breed these days, but I am sure some folk on here will have spent long enough living and tinkering with them in the past, and have a wealth of knowledge tucked away. In this exploded diagram, can you tell me the purpose of the two brass tubes I have arrowed? Some carbs have both, some just the top port, and some none. They feed very small drillings that meets the air inlet above and below the throttle butterfly. Now to the float chamber. I've opened up two 'pairs' and found a brass tube that hangs down beside the needle orifice. It seems to be present on one hand and not the other. Any clues to it's purpose, and that one hand with, and the other hand without it is correct? Now needles are easy enough to replace. These are the top adjust type of carb, although one of the ones fitted to the engine was a bottom adjust type. But can anyone tell me how the jet is fitted? It looked like it is pressed in but confirmation ould be good before I go breaking anything!

Nexus 7, (the first model).

Mikey I guess you are referring to marking out blue, rather than what I know as engineers blue which is used for checking areas of contact, such as checking gear teeth mesh in a diff. Same kinda shade of blue, very different mess potential:lol:

If you cover it in engineers blue, you'll turn into a Smurf the next time you get within 2 foot of the bench The darned stuff gets on everything - it used to be a favourite tool for many a prank in the tool room As for rust prevention on items left outside or in long term storage, we used to use a product called Ensis fluid. It was bluddy good stuff, which probably means it's been banned by the eco warriors by now ... Oh, back on topic - workshop is looking mighty fine James, and a good deal tidier than mine.

Are these big enough? They don't half make your ears ring if you're too close. They're fitted to my Ninety, and were the original reason I installed an air con compressor

Welcome to the forum. What model do you drive, and what part of the world do you live in?

I'm sure some good pictures would help everyone give you a better appraisal.

I agree with Mo, it's most likely an earthing issue. Pay particular attention to the instrument earthing wires - they're often secured to the instrument clamp bracket, which in my experience can come loose over time.

Said supplier of gasket kit, and well known engine remanufacturer has confirmed these are the same design of gasket they use on all their work. Reassembly will commence

The gaskets are from a well respected company. I'll give them a call on Monday just to check what's what. I've had quite a few V8s apart, and not seen gaskets like these before.

Went to refit the heads last night, and found a few feaures on the composite gaskets that I don't understand.

My first thought was the drive cable, but I believe you've replaced that. Did you pour some oil down the outer sheath before fitting? I have cured similar issues with a little lubrication before.

I have a fully welded galvanised Brownchurch rack for my Ninety. It is not HD as defined above, it simply clamps to the gutters. It weighs nowhere near 75KG! I can easily lift it off single handed. It is bluddy strong though - once I carried four sleepers on top - wouldn't recommend doing that again, very top heavy! It has five legs each side, I often only fit four clamps as I use it infrequently and for local light but awkward loads. I remove the clamps and standing facing the spare wheel, slide it along the gutters until the centre legs are at the rearmost edge. Then it will tip on the centre legs to the point where I can lift it off in a vertical hold and lower it to the ground. Hope that makes sense, My 110 has a full length bolt together jobby that 'looks' similar but is nowhere near as strong. It also has five legs each side, but spaced apart more, as they are spread out along the longer roof. The longitudinal rails are only flat bar, and have sagged. Also the front section slopes down in line with the roof over the front seats. This makes removal a right PITA without scraping the roof. It also means that any straight or flat loads are not supported over the front area. I wouldn't have chosen to buy this configuration, but it was on the truck when I bought it.