De Ranged

First I'd like to say thanks for spending the time educating us on this My question relates to something my partner was told in induction for the Covid ward she is working in (she is a nurse)..... they were told to treat every one with symtoms as positive regardless of test results because the test has a 30% error rate...... this may have something to do with our swabbing method, NZ has run low on the nasty nassel swab kits so we are using throat swabs, but at her hospital they still have and use the nassel tests

Got some models I'll throw up when I'm finished, just daft ideas other than clips, including a magnetic clip together to work around the bungee cord Yes I've noticed layering is a big thing on flater curves due to the step... I've also found slicer software that will reduce line height down in these situations to improve apperance/accuracy, I've also watched a fair bit on line width and playing with settings for different applications (there is an Aussy lad with a channel on Youtube that explains alot of it really well).... the diference heat makes in strength with ASA and ABS vs appearance, strength in line or by layer (roughly 50% less when pulling layers apart vs pulling a string) so orientation of your model makes a big differnce One thing that I'm curious about that I haven't been able to find is the use of CoreXY style printers (the bed only has vertical movement) vs H bot printers (the ender 3 I'm getting) regarding strength.... because they have less mobile mass the printing heads can move alot faster with less shake, does that increased speed change layer adhession I think from a personal stand piont I think I'd throw more wall layers in at the start with my stuff.... if weight and material cost isn't an issue why not over engineer lol You wouldn't have any pictures of die's that are used for something like this, ones that can shrink down to come out a past a shoulder smaller than they cast.... the engineering on something like that would be cool.... I'm guessing an "iris" design that expands as you twist

Given my limited knowledge on plastics...... I don't think it will be a internal "die" moulded, the hollow inside is too large I'd guess its blow mould or that one where you spin it... I think you'd be surprised on tollerances if it was internally die moulded then yes but if it is either of the other two your wall thickness is going to be inconsistant and therefore your shrinkage becomes a variable as for tolerances of 3d printers mine is advertised as within 0.1mm so that means a +/- 0.05mm tolerance..... most of my machining isn't to that level lol...... personally I see that as debatable lol, but these are sold and advertised with this tolerance in America, given there liabity law, they wouldn't be advertising it if it wasn't possible... and I've seen multiple examples of interference fits that have been modeled and printed on Utube and this is on a sub $200USD printer 5yrs I've been drolling over these header blocks lol.... now back then the company that made them advertised on there website that they were 3D printed in ABS The PLA is mainly for me to learn on..... for most of the sort of automotive and shed tool stuff I see me doing with this, ABS is a better option, but for me to do this reliably on this printer the information I've found (generally, internet isn't the most reliable lol) is that I need to modify the printer for better heat control.... insulation, different bed, better fan control and an inclosure with the power source outside of the inclosure is required... sorting all of this I'm going to give it some time, time for me to learn some of the "slicing" and modeling limits playing with PLA Then when I've got all the mods done for ABS I'll make these in ABS.... but I'll probably prototype in PLA since I can play with that pretty much straight away lol

I think the parks thing is about stopping parents taking there kids there to play..... which will mean kids socailizing with other kids. Over here only the parks with play grounds have been closed There is now talk of what we are going to do after the lockdown and how risk is managed..... international travel hasn't been discussed yet, but the inferance in media is out borders will remain shut to general traffic.... so I've lost my job lol Drones would be very effective, I don't know why security firms arn't using them (possibly due to legal ambiguity)..... but the Police, that is dangerous ground.... that will add to the public paranoia, then there is the whole drones and privacy rights that hasn't been sorted out legally here yet, There are also talks of cellphone tracker apps to track interaction of people.... starting to see the civil rights concerns pop'ing up on social media, this is going to be tricky ground for the Govt and as good as our Primeminister is she has a habbit of blasing on in without the normal level of consultation.... our new Gun Control Laws after the Christchurch Shooting, were up and enforced within 2 weeks of proposal!....due to this it failed lol our lockdown is another 2 weeks in and we are still getting rules clarifications on the news.... I imagine next time lol the planning will be be better.... you got a hope! Personally I couldnt care less if some spotty faced little kid wants to track where I go lol they will get bored real fast..... hell they can even leave it up and running so next time we have a pandemic we have the tools to stop it quickly..... but the legal side of this for a Govt lol is way off the charts and is going to cause a huge backlash

Thanks for that I downloaded his design I'm going to use it to get the tolerance for the clips, but there is one thing I want to change and your photo shows this, if your doing tuned length headers you want to know the length of each runner.... the easy way is to work off the center line of each block just looking at his models the center line radius length isnt consistant.... I might be wrong I haven't pulled up dimensions on them and the link was the wrong size for me lol, I don't know if I'll go with clips or not.... but I'd like to know what the tollerance is for future projects lol I've been doing a lot of reading and watching.... I'm going to start off with PLA it is the strongest (not the toughest) and easist to learn on, I've bought all the bits I need except the enclosure which I'll build, when I have the printer setup with all the mods that the community suggest.... I'll play with ABS I think long term this is a better plastic for my applications I like the latteral ideas for securing Screws nice n strong and can rotate.... catch is, say I want to change the one 26 blocks back and add in a straight, I then have to unscrew all of them to change that one Welding wire.... this isn't actually a bad idea, feed it down the center of all the blocks and kink it to stop them "pulling" apart its alot quicker than screws but it is still a bit auckward to chop n change in the middle..... I've thought about all sorts of ideas similar to this.... bungy cord, a mig gun liner with a locking clip I could slide down and lock etc but I keep thinking that if I start into too many bends this could collapse them and its still auckward to chop n change them What I was thinking is magnets, Neodymuim magnets but with a center pin...... possibly do the pins with a slight taper like a Morse spindle and the magnet at the end this would make them very ridged and still allow them to rotate Lol I dont' have an injection moulder.... I might build a small one long term as part of the miss's recycling interest, there are some real simple plans on the internet Now the Lost plastic metal casting is something I'm interested in but not for this one lol I might end up with 400 pieces in this kit to do say a straight 6 header.... to cast them all lol I like making work for myself but thats over the top!

Its the same here.... a guy put up a FB video of him walking through a supermarket coughing on people and laughing...... ended up pulling the video but not soon enough lol got charged and the best bit publicly humiliated on national news We've got the holiday crowd who all think its good for them to cheat lockdown..... a bit obvious when your in a camper van on empty roads lol the police are turning them around or if there rego has been flagged for multiple attempts detaining them I was talking to a mate in Australia some of the states aren't messing about $1000 fine..... told me some of his mates were heading to the beach all 4 of them got a $1000 fine I'm waiting on a backlash from the 5G conspiricy muppets here..... all there stupid video's and dangerous posts are being taken down lol.... watch out Bill Gates has put his evil plan into place next we will get injected with a nano virus that will turn us all into robots and the rich will rule the world lol

This might make a few people laugh, but it doesn't feel right to just grab the plans off the net lol now if there were lots of versions and different people making them then.... to be honest I wouldn't have a problem with it. It will be a good learning curve for me as well..... and just at the moment I don't really have alot else to worry my self with lol

My partneer is a Nurse in the "warm" Covid ward (no resperators these are only in the ICU) and as of tomorrow we are back to issolating from each other so if she gets it I don't and I'm able to get all the grocceries etc without risk of infection, it has been very interesting talking with her.... things like the test we have here only have a reliabilty rate of 60% so they still treat anyone with symtums as infected.... but we are lucky over here we have had only one death from it and our rates of severe (ICU dependent) cases is also very low Mate at the end of the day.... where Reserve Bank interest rates are world wide, the Govts were only able to play delaying tactics (Govt spending) to keep the economy's positive for so long... what is happening economicly was going to happen anyway.... if they had kept trading like America well just watch in the news its not good

The CAD software isn't too much of a stretch.... I have to use it to a lesser degree for work, the company I work for (hopefully I've still got a job at the end of the virus lol) is international and comunicating technical design issues is like beating your head against a wall so I've taken to Modeling things in Solidworks.... I won't say I'm proficient, but I am good enough to be able to work out how to achieve the "odd" things with a bit of research and sometimes alot of swearing lol The biggest hurdle I'm going to have to deal with is this is a medium I've never really play'd in before and its broad lol there are heaps of different plastic types with different properties and even different performance with type due to heat etc so I've got to learn materials... preperations etc. Then I'm going to have to learn how thick a wall thickness needs to be for a given part in a given material to achieve the end result I want For example these header jig pieces I want to make Notice that they clip together, now consider I want long headers (more torgue) so I'm going to end up with long chains of these clipped together and I don't want them "opening up" at the joints as this will change the bend radius's so when I build them out of steel, things won't line up..... so I want that clip together joint strong and tight. I also need these to be as light as possible so there own weight doesn't become a problem. I need the clips able to be clipped in and out lots of times so a good flexabilty and not brittle So how thick do I make each part of this model lol do I use infill, what material do I use, what temperature This is what I'm researching at the moment and for anyone interested Stefan from "CNC Kitchen" has some very good videos on Youtube on just this Just run a search on 3dhubs in NZ lol interesting reading..... it once was a community a world wide community where you could go in as either a builder (with different tools 3d printers, castings what ever) or as a client and request tenders.... now it is just a number of companies in the Europe/UK On a plus note it has given me alot more search hits than say cnc or 3d printing.... cheers for that

Lol I hate AliExpress...... I spent hrs last night on there to find the best deal for this printer I go on there today to order some of the accessories I was going to get from a local outfit (just updated there website to say out of stock lol) being lazy I hit the same search as last night..... and the very first option that pops up on the list is my printer free delivery $100 less than I paid lol..... bugger!

That is the what I got off youtube.... there seems to be alot of youtube channel support on how to setup and optimize the Ender 3, it was part of my decision to go with this model I have looked into this for a product I was going to market, but I haven't been able to find anyone in NZ, I imagine they are there, but I just haven't had any luck finding them.... what are 3D hubs? This isn't about a product. Its about learning (I want to get into CNC), convenience (the bulk of what I'm going to want is custom one off bits that I'm going to want as I build something) I want it as soon as possible.... I imagine it will be simialr to profile cutting where they buy in bulk and there process is optimised to the piont they can produce the parts cheaper than I can buy the materials. I imagine in the future I will come up with stuff that will benifit from farmed out work, but not for what I'm planing at the moment. My partner also wants to get into recycling and reusing plastics. HDPE mainly as there is currently no market for the coloured version here and it is all dumped... Lol If you've ever made headers, this system from ICEngines is awsome.... each piece is 1" and they clip together like lego so you can tune your lengths of each runner by making each runner the same number of blocks, the blocks come in different radius's as well as straight (to match readily available pre-made bends) and they even have alignment marks to make cutting and mitering simpler Yea, I've noticed this off Youtube and also noticed that different softwares do different things..... from the different reviews and watching what others are using I figured I'd download both the Cura and Pursa (sp?) ones and spend some time with them before the printer arrives That is another thing I've noticed on Youtube the changes in filament and have noticed that some of the prints even changing colour (within the same manufacturers range) has had an effect on qaulity.... to that end I've done some research on the local market and found a supplier who is recomended for filiment..... I'm also going to run temp towers for each of the products as part of my learning curve lol Lol its a give in that I'm going to modify and play with it as I learn.... I've already ordered some common "hop ups" for it lol I was planing on buy this after our "lockdown" is over and had found a good deal from a NZ site (same one I'm getting my inital filiment from, but because they aren't essential they couldn't send till after the lockdown) they had a special on that was slightly better price than even buying it from China.... went onto there website to check out some details and its no longer available lol...... there is a new model that is going to be available at the end of May and $100 more lol so I pulled the pin on the Chinese one from Aliexpress.... $300NZD and another $278 in freight and Grab Snatch n Take.... now I just have to wait n see how long it takes to get here (given the world situation lol) they are estimating between 9-17 days hmmmm I will be ordering a Glass bed (with a special texture for ABS), some PLA, ABS filament and the rest of the common mods later tonight I don't plan on playing with the ABS straight away as it seems to be a bit of a tempermental product lol and I want to build a few mods for the unit and an enclosure before I pull out the ABS I have found a number of different Youtube channels that have some very good information both for the Ender 3 model and 3D printing in general I can post up some links to these if people would like Now I have to wait for toys to arrive lol

Gidday With all the time off I've been looking at 3D printers.... this is something that both me and the miss's have been a bit interested in I've reached a piont on a build where I've got to build a set of headers for an LS and given how bigger job this is I was going to buy a Header Molding Kit from ICEngine works, awsome set of tools.... but there is a slight hitch with them.... they are imperial and my steel supplier stocks metric pipe (they can supply imperial at a marked increase of cost and have to buy whole sticks, that means I end up with excess stock in the rack as "odd size" material), the next issue is I've currently got a 2L 4 pot, 3L V6, 4.2L Staight 6 and the LS and all of them need headers that are going to be tight, now I could get away with using a small dia set for all of them but it I know this is going to lead to some "band aid" engineering due to clearances not being right lol.... and given these sets arn't cheap lol not even close to it! I'm not buying more than one..... then I had the thought well how much is a 3D printer lol surprisingly its going to be cheaper so the plan is to model my own the right size and I learn something new..... my misses wants to get me into recycling plastics and with a bit of work this gives me an outlet for the recycled stuff So being in lock down I've spent a couple of days watching Youtube and surfing forums etc I'm about to pull the pin on buying a printer, an Ender 3 Pro... It's cheap..... yes there are alot cheaper options but I don't want to be "problem" solving a kitset It has a resumble bed size 220 x 220 x 250mm With some tuning work (and some mods) will produce some very nice work.... off the bat its good enough for what I want to do, I can make it better as I learn more about it Can print in PLA, PETG and ABS but this one is a bit of a funny one, it needs some mods to do this properly (nothing challenging to build).... PETG is the one that I want for the recycled plastic This is a good one..... it is modifiable and has a good community support network I thought I'd put this up for advice.... see if any of you have experiance in 3D printing and any advice, before I pull the pin

Lol I'm awear of this and under current standards it is safe to within a few meters of the arial.... my concern is we are now utilising this radiation in a concistent way.... every day I'm not against the technology we just need monitoring in place.... think of it like smoking it wasn't till medical trends showed there was a problem that we reacted, wouldn't it be better if there were university studies in place to see if there is or isn't a increase in cancer in relation to location ? Not a chance they have a distrust of anyone who knows something they don't lol or is doing something they don't understand...... honestly if they didn't have the potential for life threatening danger they'd be funny to watch..... I've been messaging some of them in the FB group and once they have proof (some coincidence in date or other) thats it there mind is made up... it doesn't matter what proof you provide they are locked and they will not concider anything else can be true, to the piont they will even put up contridictory evidence to reinforce there view ..... to be honest I think it must be similar to sucide bombers belief The kinda ironic thing is if they actually manage to organize themselves and take down cellphone towers across NZ it will probably be the thing that involves the Miltary and we will end up with martial law lol which is what most of them see the Govt wanting to impose

No lol it is sad how dumb people are.... I joined the 5G group because I do have some concerns as to long term effects of usage of 5G frequency as it is a form of radiation... But what I've found lol idiots who think Cov19 is radiation posioning and are trying to organise to cut towers down..... another group of idiots who are trying to get groups together NOW to protest in every main center because they believe some thwack on FB who told them virus's can't spread and the lockdown is for other purposes.... and now that FB, Youtube and the Govt are taking down dangerous or inflamitory stuff the conspiracy carp has gained more fuel lol I thought the human race had evolved enough Darwinism no longer applied.... instead Socail Media, is going to apply it to the gullible and stupid

Then that lack of understanding gets noticed and a percentage of the public take if for conspiracy and start joining dots that don't exist lol..... Stuck at home with bugger all to do I've been surfing FB its amazing how inventivily stupid people can be..... joining dots that don't exist and how strongly they believe the world is out to get them

Lol I modify things, thats my fun..... to be honest the journy/process of design, problem solving and creating is of way more interest than actually having and using the end product, I'm an ex logging contractor and farmer so I've spent 25+ yrs driving and opperating where most wouldn't lol I won't say I'm over it, but 4wding is almost more about the social thing for me... I'm just as happy in the passanger seat motivating a mate to have a go even if its my rig lol because if its broken its back in my workshop for improvements To that end.... I hate to compromise an idea And while the industrial radiator is a good option it doesn't solve the issue, at rallywoods putting that upfront would get me another bog maybe 2 or 3 before I have to wash it out and it will be easyer to wash... the clay in the slop drys on in layers lol its not uncommon to see an inch of mud stuck to the front of the radiator there

Because I've already bought the Radiators for my current projects lol Alloy ones at that! Your suggesting just behind the doors ? That would be an interesting challenge as I'm going to be trying to keep the exo as tight as I can on the outside and the seats on inside hmmmm do-able tho.... not going to allow me to draw off the steam from the headers and motor tho

I know this is going to sound daft lol but the whole technology thing hasn't been confirmed yet..... using a camera as wing mirrors, your example etc...... there is one vehicle that is leading this issue and that is a disability conversion with electronic steering and controls, this vehicle is pushing very hard so they are writting rules to cover this. Till then it is a case by case thing and I'm back to the discretion of the certifier and the warrent tester Bowie its not as simple as it seems, there is a big thread up on a local FB group about fitting radiators into the rear side windows (Patrols and Cruisers) and the concensous was that ducting did little to help.... it was all about the fans, some of the guys had put alot of develpment time in on this and on long sustained climbs (road) they still had cooling issues..... now one thing I did notice is there was no talk of where to vent, the discussion was about fitting the whole system in a window inclosure, maybe if you were to vent somewhere like the top of the rear door it would make the scoop work? Fridge lol 25yrs I've been working around and with heavy earth moving gear (even washing mud out of radiators) and I never thought of this lol I will remember this for the next toy Escape thats not a bad idea, I'm trying to visualize a 40 series with racing door vents lol..... just a thought would the exo tubes interfer with the surface flow ?... just realised that would stop the windows winding down bugger I've got a mid mounted PTO winch so the radiator will go above this just below the rear window (I'm allowed to lift the floor behind the seats as far as I want, as no issue with occupant safety), as for sealing the bonnet I was going to run a length of door seal under the rear of the bonnet.... the sides of the gaurds come up under the sides of the bonnet so should create a bit of natural seal.... if I have to I'll seal them as well. Stopping this is a big bonus to me. There are guys here with winch trucks that run trans cooler fans under the bonnets to push the steam down to lessen the issue, I'll probably do the same if this isn't good enough There are alot of transaxle buggies here that use the rad fan to pull the engine heat back to cool it down for the occupants (google NZ 4wd trials its good to watch) and I've never seen a rear rad setup that struggled to cool, I think its a combination of the extra volume of coolant and the cooling gained from the hard lines. All that said I've never seen one sealed into that airflow like I'm looking at

It has been done with perspex and it is about the only way I could do it catch is it depends on the certification tester and the yearly warrent testers opinions.... if either feel the qaulity of vision is impacted then I'm screwed and have to remove it its not trees its the shrubs on the side of the track.... imagine hedges of branches from finger width to 50mm thick and these are just off the track lol thats Minginui forest. This truck was built for it Notice the fiberglass roof.... look closely at the top of the windscreen, the orignial roof has a gutter that sticks out not much about 20 or 30mm if that but it was catching enough it damaged the roof so this one was made..... personally I prefer "Camel trophy" wires to lift the branches over Those issues aside a roof scoop doesn't address the issues I wanted to solve and one of them is steam on the windscreen you might laugh at that but when you have to stick your head out the window to see and your driving clay ruts and a hedge of branches to the side lol its not good I'd rather my head was inside the cab

My idea so far..... and I'm getting to the piont its going to be a try it and see thing lol is Is lift the floor between the seats as much as I can (legal safety limits to protect occupants) possibly around 400mm wide by as much as 500mm tall with a rolled top (curved corners part of the occupant protection), the firewall and under dash will get a cone as wide as I can push it without interfering with the pedals and an equal amount on the other side (symatry looks good lol) and as high as I can take it up under the dash At the back of the cab I'm guessing mounting the radiator on a 45 degree angle "\" to the cab.... and will be sealed into the deck/guards I'm guessng the flow dynamic is going to get all screwed from what I've seen with my ute, to my eye the wind flows over the cab and is hitting the rear half of the tonneau cover forcing it down, most of this turbulance flows over the back, but a small amount flows forward towards the cab and cycles up the back of the cab lifting the front of the tonneau Given the 40 is a brick, is twice as tall, the deck is as good as half as long and I'm going to have an exo interfering with the flow Im expecting the area behind the cab to be a mess of turbulance with no real flow, but due to the flow around and over at enough of a pressure differentail it will draw through the radiator if it is sealed This is why I'm' guessing at a 45 degree angle, I see it as sorta hedging my bets lol I'll try and keep the exhausts out the sides and put some sheilding to try and limit there heat impact and I was thinking of some sheet metal deflectors around the base of the engine and possibly in the transmission tunnel to keep the bulk of the flow through to the radiator and limit debris... but I'll try and keep these minimal as I don't want them acting as mud traps Any thoughts ? Anything I've missed ? Thanks for the feedback it helps with my thought process lol

Yep you guys are right, a roof scoop works and works really well..... your drawing dust free air, and good flow..... catch is while we are allowed to blackout/interfair with the vision throught the back window it is only for commercail vehicles lol there is next to no way I could get away with it I have considered ducting (over the sides of the roof, and around the sides of the cabin) but this is the open conditions for alot of tracks lol I don't have any pic's on the computer of the tracks where the bush is trimmed back to keep the tracks open, I'll leave it with the comment it is common to slip a branch down between your exo and body and break the stick as you bend it between cage and body... and yes this F's pannels.... This is why I'm getting "inventive" lol The other thing is we don't have a dust problem in New Zealand lol over winter its the oposite.... why I see keeping the engine steam off the windscreen such a big gain For the books we don't salt our roads and I'm not a big fan of beach runs The road going side of it is going to be limited 1-3000k's/yr, I want this for club runs and the ocasional epic... and I'm going to setup the radiator up so it can be removed/tilted for cleaning... some of the play areas have a sloppy mud that is very deep and once it touches anything warm it drys on, but washes off easily Lol I would have if I could, my knowledge of flow dynamics is F all, so something like this would have been the way....... catch is what has prompted this build is the flywheel almost fell out so the truck isn't a runner lol My understanding so far on the aerodynamic's is from watching the tonneau cover of my ute (which has a way lower cab and almost twice the deck).... and from past vehicles I've built for the road (I solved one with ducting, one with extra radiator core (I used two radiators), and the rest with HD fans (Audi ones I think from the A4's, these fans will pick themselves up off the floor and fly! but they are a huge draw 80amp fuse) and some non-realated posts on a commador forum about drag from racing utes that backs up my observations driving my ute Lo-fi your comment about using the exhust gas flow was intregging untill I did some math..... I started with the best case option (I can cause as much flow as the exhust via ventui/heat) I started by converting everything to the same standard "flow per second" The engine 5.7L @ 2000rpm = 190L/sec of gas flow (1L =1000000mm3) Wind 1km/hr = 277.8mm/sec The surface area of the radiator is 735mm x 438mm = 323244mm2 So 190,000,000 / 323244 = 587.8mm/sec of flow or less than 3km/hr of wind flow.... math can really steal the fun out of an idea lol

This is something I'm contemplating doing to a 40 series Landcruiser...... I'm posting it up here because of all the groups I'm part of this group has the best bunch of thinkers I've come across and the least of the web crawler mentality where they have to be heard even if they don't know anything, or can't extrapolate lol Now to set the scene, this is about road going vehicles with a rear mounted radiator at sustained open road speed .... we all know it works on slow offroad toys. The issue is at road speed, there is a vortex behind the cab that does two bad things first it recycles the same air and there is a slight reduction in air pressure Now my idea is to open up the transmission tunnel behind the motor vertically so the air forced into the engine bay to flow above the gearbox and back to the radiator mounted at the end of the new transmission tunnel at the back of the cab, sealed to the deck and guards - The lower pressure in the deck should help draw this through from the transmission tunnel ? - will the turbulance under the vehicle destroy this flow ? - Is there a vacumn under the cab that would cause this to want to flow from the back of the cab to the underside ? - I don't think the engine heat will be an issue ? (I've done a few buggys and there are alot in competition that have a low mounted rad that draws past the engine and from below, and they work) - will the vertex in the back, flows forward towards the cab and up the back of the cab impact flow ? If I can pull this off I gain two big bonus's from an offroad perspective..... first is the fact the radiator isn't in the front pushing the bow wave of sloppy mud when you enter a bog, and second by drawing the air from the engine bay under the cab I stop all the steam from the engine and exhust when you hit a wet crossing or bog going up infront of the windscreen effecting vision The setup I'm planing on running in the 40 series is an LS1 (5.7L), running the biggest Davis Craig electic water pump and controller, with Alloy water pipe lines between the motor and radiator, and a Nissan Patrol TD42 alloy radiator (basicly the biggest radiator short of a truck one lol), I was planing on 2 x 16" radiator ducted fans (one on a manual switch and the other on the Davis Craig controller) Any thoughts... experiances....... before I carve out the floor on my 40 lol

Sounds similar to what I've got that I use most a version of this https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/other/listing-2588098134.htm?rsqid=1b50719662224969a7e105e008e572dc-006 I got mine off trademe (our version of ebay) for $45 each and the lights are still going strong 3 yrs later, they do have a few issues they take ages to charge (think its 6hrs to charge to full), They are a bit fragile for my level of abuse.... I regually need to straighten the black straps as this bends under impact lol and on one I've broken the lug on the light on one side where the lock down nut is On the positive, cheap (when I do finially kill one I'm not going to cry lol), Light weight, this plus the legs are just the right size and length to jam in around things so you can "hang" it on headrests, rollcages, roof seams etc, the battery is good enough it lasts upto 4hrs

LED's have a bit of a catch Remember for yrs they weren't allowed to be fitted to vehicle headlights, this is due to LED's light wave length.... your eye doesn't perceive detail very well in this wave length, don't ask me any more on this lol I never bothered to learn more Now becoming half blind in the last few yrs lol I've noticed this effect from my worklights, the older style worklights (the ones with banks of LED's) while they pump out lots of light... buggered if I can read a vernier or ruler in that light..... my new'er CREE style work lights are alot better (single sqaure element) Given the style of diffuser cover on that one in the link I'm guessing its the early banked style and I wouldn't recomend them Oh and where I really want to see well (the lathe, mill and serious worklight situations) I use incandesant (sp?) lights and I have a supply of bulbs for the worklights find they pop when ever I move em or weld splatter hits them lol but that good light is worth it

On another note... the post Covid economic effect I've just gotten an email from AirNZ our national airline (i'm a share holder and an airpoints member) the management have been sending out updates since before flight restrictions started and have been in consultation with our Govt from the start Up untill now staff have been off on leave or partial pay from a Govt subsidy... but there jobs were being held there untill things start back up again So the Govt is expecting our tourism industry to dry up..... this is depending on source but around 8% of GDP and somewhere around 200,000 jobs (directly imployed) I imagine this is going to be similar in other countries