De Ranged

Simple and obvious and yet I never thought of that lol I'll remember when I'm doing lighting

Been a bit distracted.... I got some work, some actual paying work lol.... Bl..dy Covid cr@p But back in the shop and nearly cleared my mates truck.... so started into some of my (long list of) projects lol cutting the bolt collets for the chassis table only 40 more to do lol Finally got a shower enclosure from a builder mate So I can start to build a solar air heater for the shed..... kinda funny I'm building this at the start of summer lol but I've kinda reached critical mass on my storage of adult coke cans I'm going to punch out each end and form them into tubes, spray them matt black, lay them up in a box under the glass... duct the top into the shop, the convection current as the air heats should pump the hot air into the shop.... this is intended as a test piece to play with things, toying with the idea of using a cheap solar cell to power a computer fan to improve draw, also the effect of turbulance in the tubes (leaving more ragged edges where each can joins), length of the tubes etc Bought a new toy..... a Suzuki DR650 going to set it up to do some adventure riding. Did alot of reading and tried a few differnt bikes before I chose this one. It's not quite what i want but its the best to build into what I want..... Had it out for a nice sunday ride with a couple of mates... its a bit of a learning curve remembering how to ride on road, been over 25yrs A nice tractor of a motor, she is a fun ride even on the road but the front forks have to go and the headlight windscreen is worse than useless it directs the air up at my helmet So been doing some research to swop out the front forks for a set of Upside Down Forks from a Yamaha WR450 once I've got the forks sorted I'll make up a new fairing headlight... have a bit of a play at aerodynamics

Lol well that shows my press is way off 60ton.... I've got some spare pressure gauages there I should put one on and see what pressure it is getting Looks like you have nearly sorted it.... I'm uncertian what the lightweight pannels look like, but I'm assuming your going to cut a window in the raised section.... At the moment it looks like the pressed form is driving the movement in the outer piece, trying to shrink the outer lip causing ripples (your X section backs this up) if so precut your hole in the pressed section with an undersized hole 5-9mm in from each side.... this will allow some stretching to happen to the edge that is being forced down, but as somebody else stated make your cuts clean and smooth with consistant radii so you don't get stress risers that tear

Damm this is a cool thread, some very nice work I hate to be the bugger who has the negative comment and I hope I'm wrong..... but I don't think its going to be as simple as pressing that..... Remember my silly little wire racks I went way over the top with, the large special dimple dies in the center.... they were only around 120mm dia and a I think a 7mm depression. It was maxing out my 60 ton press and it didn't form properly and tore/cut the alloy sheet, the steel didn't tear but still didn't form fully.... my press is made around a Chinese bottle jack so its anyones guess what it is actually maxing out at If it helps I found prestretching in a sandbag or stump so the die did minimal stretching worked for me but it left a pattern on the finished surface.... potentially I could have planished the prestretch then done the pressing and it should have come out smoother Looking forward to tomorrows results

I'd be keen to see your dies for this.... alloy is fun stuff to form

Thank you for the comment glad you are able to put them to use lol they were just gathering dust with me.... your always welcome back over to share a beer Got a rough design sorted for the pivot and carrage etc but need dimensions to finish it off.... will sort that when I'm home Was thinking about the storage of things for the new shed, and came up with a redesign of my corner build scales..... so they will fit in a case with there display and cable, yes it is sort of OCD but I grew up in my fathers shed where to find something was a 45min waste of time lol he was all good ask him and he'd know where 3 of them were... I do have a habit of putting things down but I work to the idea if a tool has a place and it goes back its easy to find it next time so..... I narrowed the scales to fit in cases The holes in the sides are for M8 grub screws so I can lock the ends on when I take the counter sunk caps out to fit studs, the studs will fit to extentions

Lol I like to learn and develope so on my stuff I tend to push the limits.... and this is for my new shop witch is sort of a dream come true so i want it to be a bit next level I did a job for the neibour a yr ago and it was painfull lol I was slow and struggled and to be honest it was an easy climb..... its amazing how fast you loose that ability

The bottom has several issues... The biggest is the rail system, by having it on roof I can have the rails extend out over the walkway down the middle of the container without effecting my abilty to move down the walkway area, if I have it from below I'm up for something similar to a draw slider system which over time will wear and sag Why wont gravity work on the bearing when its hanging on it from above (you are distracted lol) I think for the amount of load and use. Nylon would be plenty and I happen to have a box of nylon bushes lol No my epiphany wasn't about the design, I've got a nice simple answer for that, that will also adjust height..... it was about where I'm placing this, I was so focused on the design I overlooked the space I need to use it lol Hope your tree went all good Deep, if you haven't done it yet I'm happy to loan you my Arb gear (harness, ropes, throwlines etc)

I need some inspiration..... I'm away for work, and to entertian myself in my spare time I've been playing with a design for Nut, Bolt and Small goods storage.... to save space I've come up with a bit of an idea Using parts bins (the cheapest I can find in NZ) https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-parts-bin-tray-set-with-rail-8-piece/529292.html?cgid=SCN010510#start=44 I'm going to make a cabinet that is double sided The idea is it will be on a frame attatched to the wall and roof of a container... they will be stored end on (green sheet facing out, 2 possibly 3 cabinetts) when I want something I pull it out end first, when I have it out far enough I will be able to spin it on a bearing centered on the top so I can access both sides. That and the main cabinet that will house these are the easy bits lol What I've been trying to sort out is the bearing system at the top I was working on a tapered roller bearing (a wheel bearing since I have heaps lol) my suspended weight is going to be worst case 130kg but its not going to be even (one side or one end could be alot heavier or lighter) so I'm wondering if I need to put a second bearing to stabilize.... lol Typing this up and having to think how to discribe this has dropped the "blinders".... ever find your train of thought gets caught on a track and focus's on only that direction.... more to come

Finally got all the beams done for the chassis table, 2 x 2m main beams, 2 x 520mm joiners, one 1040mm joiner (match this by bolting the 520mm joiners together), 2 x 500mm outrigger's and 6 x 250mm outriggers I've still got to machine up collets that will allow some miss-alignment when I bolt the 4 x M16 bolts to lock the parts together, I've also added a pair of M10 bolts top and bottom to make leveling the outriggers and joiners when I assemble it.... with just these parts I can configer to make it 700mm or 1200mm wide (outside to outside) with 2 joining beams (can mount the outriggers facing in if I need more), 2m to 2.75m long and with the outriggers between 1.2m to 2.2m wide Hopefully I'll have the tips waiting for me when I finish this contract so I can get the adjustable legs machined Also got a bit of the wheel scales done, no welding... that is going to be a big job 6mm and 10mm on my 200 amp tig, it will do it but it takes alot of pre heat There's the small boxs that got folded up by mistake ..... need to find a use for them lol

Turned up to find the bin 1/3rd full.... still a few puddles in the workshop but no where near the flooding I was concerned about..... The landlord was up on the roof ripping out the old rotten gutter, so gave him a hand to replace about 5m.... so now we wait and see if it leaks lol.... no rain till monday Thanks to all this I still haven't finished cleaning up and painting the chassis table bits lol there is still 3 250mm outriggers to go.... hopefully today lol On a plus note with all the moving stuff around in the shed I've had a bit of a clean out..... I'd disposed of a trailer load of scrap metal from under the bench so it was empty, now its over half full and I still have another 4 gearbox/trans to strip down..... I'm saving the alloy to melt down... another project a 2 liter LPG smelter for casting, want to have a play at investment casting using the 3D printer I've been working on clearing and cleaning up (thinning down) the stockpile of "one day", "too good to throw out" or "I could use that too..." with the roof issue, its sort of bumped the process.... to the point I got **** form all my mates who turned up for Friday night drinks because this is the first time in close to a decade one bench top has seen the light of day lol (When I'm in my new shop I'm going to "try" and not get sidetracked and stockpile projects lol) Should have some pics tomorrow lol

I've had a couple of issues lol.... First, got the call the alloy was cut... and folded, yay new toys. Get over there to pick em up.... very nice, folds have been done spot on (better than my press would have done) since this is costing me shed time I head around a couple of other places. Back at my workshop and I'm walking in with these alloy covers thinking to myself I might have made these a bit on the small side.... so I walk back outside to check it against the tyres on the cruiser (37"s).... yep its too small! Its not even as wide as the tyre.... bugger what a waste! So how much bigger does Mk 2 have to be.... go and grab a ruler to re-measure the tyre contact patch..... 320 x 320 hmmm thats what I got last time..... hmmm hang on.... yep box is 220 x220 lol, contact the profile cutters lol there forman wasn't very happy..... I can pick the new ones up today lol Last night lol.... My workshop was once a pet food processing plant, the land lord has divided it up into a number of different units..... one problem with this is the floor is uneven, it was raised up and sloped so when they did the wash down it would flow to the drains (most of the internal ones are now blocked, have been for years) The landlord has been doing some roofing repairs lately, working on some leaks that are annoying Well it started to rain last night (while I was grinding and polishing the outriggers for the chassis table), one of the annoying leaks is from an internal gutter that runs above where my work bench is lol yea its no longer an annoying leak its worse than if you hooked the garden hose up there lol So moved everything away (power tools and cords!) grabbed a jacket and climbed up on the roof in the dark. I couldn't find anything lol Head back in to find a puddle an inch deep and spreading so I clear out alot more stuff, text the landlord lol Problem is the fall is towards the partition wall.... for this to flow to a drain in my area its going to have to flood to 3"+ then the blocked drain its going to flow to, is in the middle of the workshop lol. It will take days for it to seep through, so I set too moving stuff and stacking ontop of projects or where ever I can to get it off the floor The land lord turns up about an hour later with a tube of silicon..... he knows where the holes will be, so back up on the roof with some sheet metal patches to hopefully fix the problem 3/4 of an hr later (and soaking wet lol) no real difference, so we made the call to open up the gutter from below lol what a mess.... dirt, rotten wood and rusty iron..... some clown in the past has used particl board to support the gutter, this has gotten wet probably from condensation and rotted and swelled distorting the gutter (its never flowed well) the wet wood has rotted the galv out from below and someone has just dropped another layer ontop, which is rotting out at the sides where the water sits between the layers..... you want to see the look on the landlords face lol he knows how big this job has gotten lol As an answer the landlord grabs a wheely bin and we put that under the worst of it.... I stuck around cleaning and moving stuff for a couple of hrs.... emptied the bin before I left and the landlord was coming back in the night to empty it lol I wonder how bad it will be when I get there this afternoon

I've learned alot of patience running sites.... lol, when I'm at home in the shed I have limited time so I try and make the most of it Had a resumbly good afternoon yesterday got 5 of the outriggers welded up, should get the rest done tonight, Then tidy them up and paint the next night One bugger tho I can't find any carbides.... everybody is on back order. So I'm not going to finish this before my next contract away .... bugger I know what you mean about using the compound slide to advance the tool along one shoulder of the thread.... I thought it was a qaulity (reduce the amount of shoulder you roll over at the edge of your cut) I didn't know it reduced loading..... there is a 15 degree angle to the tooth so I'll try it when I get some new tips To be honest I don't do threads that way very often..... most of what I cut is less than 2mm and its easier to just look up hte engineers handbook for the Min dia and advance sqaure to that, instead of using Pythagous to get the distance to advance the compound slide lol When I got home last night there was the last package waiting..... I finally have all the parts to make a pair of wheel scales, Yay! This is my design..... Top, sides and most of the ribs are made out of 6mm 5052 alloy (its getting cut today), there is a length of 10mm that is welded in above the scales to reinforce the top, the blue "2" is an identifier so I can match the calibrated displays to each scale, there will be a matching number on the display boxes There will be a plug underneath, that way the plug cable can't be damaged while in storage

A wee update.... had a big weekend planned weld up all the bits on the chassis table.... machine up the adjustable legs... finish it off Got one of the main beams all drilled and welded up, setup the jig for welding up the ends on the out riggers and joiners.... get it dialed in with the first one... get half way through the second and noticed the weld pool is bubbling...... bugger go check the regulator and 1/5th of a tank left but no flow lol yep bottle is empty the reg was lieing... and its half an hr after the last shop that has gas, has closed..... no welding this weekend Oh well I'll get the machining done.... mount up the first shaft get about half way through cutting the thread and the carriage jumps out of gear..... for those that don't know to cut threads on the lathe you set your speeds and direction on the lathe, then you engage your carriage to the lead screw so it pulls the carriage along. When it jumps out of gear the carriage stops moving but the lathe is still turning the work. One of two things happens at this piont (beer in mind the tool is about 2mm deep into the work at the moment!). It can cut a slot around the shaft, distroying the thread or something gives.... as in this case snapping the tip off the carbide This isn't the end of the world (cost about $15 per piont) so turn the carbide to the next piont get it lined back up.... do 3 pass's slowly going deeper on each one testing to make certian I have it lined up properly (account for the backlash in the lead screw and lathe gearing) I'm finially happy so advance in in the the bottom of the cut and there is a BANG! stop the lathe and check can't see anything so I cut the rest of the thread Due to the tip having a broad end acme threads have a flat piont and this is as coarse a thread pitch as I can get for a 20mm tool holder also this stainless is gauling onto the carbide..... I'm taking very shallow cuts 0.2mm per pass so to get all the way to 3.4mm takes a bit of time With the first one done, I start mounting up the second when I noticed the tip didn't look right.... in the end holding it up against a light I was able to see one edge was chipped..... The bang must have been a bit of carbide from the brocken tip lodged in the shoulder of the thread..... so the thread I've just finished cutting isn't the right profile (insert lots of different fish names!) So I cracked a can and sat outside for a bit had a chat with one of the other weekend shedy's who was working away Right 2 tips down but I still have one good one lol I could still do this so mount up the last tip and a fresh length of shaft..... get about 1.6mm deep cutting and noticed the center holding the end has stopped spinning... bugger the work is slipping in the chuck so go and get a large ring end spanner and crank the snot out of the chuck. I got another 3 pass's before it moved again and broke the tip..... some days you just can't win So I painted the main beam I'd finished lol I'm not painting the top as I'm going to clamp and weld to it.... I will oil it the same as my fab table On a plus note I did some cleaning up in the workshop and found some more bar stock so when I get some new tips I'll just start fresh..... I think if I drill and pin the stainless shaft this will stop it turning in the chuck and I'll be good to go

Just for a future shop project I'm awear of breathing dust in my shop.... silicosis is a big issue with my job.... As you would guess there was alot of dust in my shop from all the grinding.... I was wearing a respirator (prefer this over the cheap dust masks) now anyone who has to wear one for a good portion of the day will agree they are exhusting to use For this reason and the fact that if its a small grind I don't bother with the mask I've been thinking of building a grinding station with a filtered extraction when I get the shed sorted. Idealy I'd like to keep the air in the shop (keep warmth over winter) but I think the practicality is I'll be better venting outside I can run a coarse filter and let it go I understand from a reactive point of view the finer the material is the greater the risk.... my general project direction is towards more alloy work and I'll be sanding welds down and parts to fit (not as efficent as alloy specific grinding disks but still quick and a bit slower so less chance of a mistake lol) is this going to create an issue in the extraction system ?

I did know that thermite was made from iron oxide and aluminum oxide (always wanted to make it) I never thought you could get it mixed well enough just from grinding..... I'm safe anyway as i clean up between jobs and I don't normally grind alloy (can't get alloy grinding disks locally)

Got my scales working..... discovered a slight issue tho lol my display modules don't have the correct inputs, they are from china and the add was badly translated, I read the wording and didn't look at the technical information... they are a sensor display and don't have the correct connections to wire the scale in.... I have ordered some correct units lol... I had a spare couple of displays I was going to use with my wheel scales (when the tension scales arrive) and the scales work on these Did a bit of traveling, but back in the shed so thought I'd attack the chassis table..... when I stepped up a gauge on the Unerversal Beam, from 310 UB 34 to 310 UB 40 I made a wee mistake I only checked the vertical dimension was the same lol yea.... I discovered that the top and bottom web were wider after I had nearly finished cutting them all up.... the original UB34 has a 150 wide web and I'd bought a length of 150 x 10 flat to match this for the bolt in ends... the catch is the UB40 has a 165 wide web...... 2 days of cutting, welding and grinding and marking out I finally have a small pile of correct width 10mm plate The extra bit ment I ran short and had to get creative using offcuts lol This will give you an idea how keen I was to finish this, bandsaw had broken its band and I had none in stock (I can get them locally but the price is double and the qaulity isn't close to the saw maker I deal with up in Auckland) so I started in with cutting disks lol this is 14hrs of disks There are drifts of metal dust on my bench.... but I'm now ready to go in and start drilling and possibly build a jig to start assmebling the ends

been a while so here is some of the stuff I've learned.... if I'm wrong speak up lol this is from my own playing and with some problems lots of reading on the internet lol sometimes that isn't helpfull at all like in the case of PETG bed adhesion problem.... increase bed temp or run no heated bed lol First off mods to the printer..... my goal is to eventually get this thing printing in ABS so ideal temps are are 240-270C for the head 90-100C for the bed and an enclosure temp of 60-70C so I've headed my mods in this direction I've printed a few different mods (filament guides, clips etc) these were for me more about learning and as such I printed them in PLA since its the easiest stuff to print so all of these will go or get replaced when I have the enclosure sorted.... check out "thingiverse.com" there are heaps of mods and endless projects to print So I started off with the usual youtube recomended improvements so I got a "set" with all the recomendations (HD bed springs, rubber mounts for the X and Y stepper motors, signal filters for the stepper motors, and an alloy filament drive, cost me less than $20 delivered), none of it is worth bothering with lol The HD bed springs, they are too tall and to use them you need to move the Z stop up (reducing your available Z axis)..... so I decided to see how long I could go with the standard springs without leveling my bed (this is apprarently the issue you get due to soft springs), I'm over 200hrs of printing and I've only "had" to level my bed twice.... I can live with that inconvenance The rubber mounts for the steppers.... lol I haven't used them.... the stepper motor is mounted too far from the drive belt as it is, the motor is 30mm wide and there is 20mm of shaft to the center of the drive cog there is enough deflection already that the belt is rubbing on the far side of the cog.... and the recomendation is add another 6mm of leverage and mount the motor on rubber lol no The signal filters they made a difference but not like you hear on youtube lol I keep the printer in another room... The all metal drive for the filament.... I was too lazy to fit it and even with it banging away for hrs after I've repeatedly jamed the hot end (I'll explain later lol) it isn't showing signs of damage or wear and the tensioning spring is the same so I see no reason to fit it Now for what is worthwhile I've insulated the underside of the bed, the information I have from the forums and it matches what I've seen with my infra red themometer is that the Ender 3 has a max bed temp of 80 odd, it varies a bit now this could be due to how I'm measureing it IR themometers have issues with black objects and glass it seems the bed has gained 4.5-5 degrees with the insulation on the underside. The better bit it has done is the heat is holding for more of the bed now not just a 150x150mm patch in the middle https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32878669055.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dXGSXQQ I replaced the bouden tube with a Capricon PTFE tube. This wasn't an issue till I started printing PETG (hot end @ 240C) I got a jam after I'd printed about 20hrs worth of parts, this wasn't caused by the bouden tube it was due to heat creep (I'll explain later) but it took alot of pulling to get the tube out of the hot end and when it finally came out the end of the tube was sort of burned and had allowed the molten plastic up the outside of the tube... glueing it to the heat sink, so even with the hotend @ 240C it didn't want to budge, I changed to the Capricon tube and in the run of jams after this had no issues getting the tube out, preheat the hotend, back the fitting holding the tube out and gentle tug and if your quick the PETG is still warm in the tube so you just pull the plug out easily Currently the printer is out of action, after a run of jams caused by heat creep..... this is where there isn't enough flow of plastic through the hot end for the temps it is running at and the heat creeps up into the base of the heat sink melting the filament in the heat sink, the extra surface area of the melted plastic against the heat sink transfers the heat out of the plastic, setting it as a block..... removing the bouden tube on the last jam has damaged the fitting at the top of the hot end enough that it doesn't want to slide down over the tube any more Given I really want more heat in the hot end to do ABS properly instead of fixing the fitting I've ordered a micro swiss all metal hotend.... not the cheapest option but it comes plug n play, I don't have to print new fan mounts etc, it has a nice dual roller direct drive (removes the issue of the bouden tube slop effecting retraction) and is available in stock in New Zealand (no 3 month wait for it to come from overseas lol) lol thats enough for now.... I'm missing out on shed time..... more to follow

I need one of these for cutting auto glass, the little abbrasive disks are about the only way I've found of semi reliably cutting windscreens to match roof chops and the lighter body is better than my electric die grinder for dressing welds in difficult unbrace-able spots..... catch is for the price of the Dremel I can buy 3 Hikoki 5" grinders (with change lol) Speaking of grinders those sanding disks are a great score.... not to many people use them here, I love them they are the best thing you can use for panel work or blending

Water will remove dust issues.... In the past I used to deal with asbestose (sp?) and as part of the safety measures we would wet the material and then spray paint on it too control dust issues My only concern is to do with where the builders mix is sourced from.... here in NZ, sand qaurrys are coastal so will have salts in there mix. I was thinking to get half a ton of crusher dust or from one of the inland qaurrys screen out the bigger material and see how it goes

I like how well he did with bulders miz, I wasn't kidding how expensive media is around here lol check this out, this is 5kg https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/remington-sand-blasting-grit-5kg/p/236920?gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1EId9UybM6bjhQz8GDh_0_-tCk8ADYxX8ED_ThaoKwd_R_43j6gx6hoCPVMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds None of the local supply shops stock media so its special order with nasty freight charges As for drying it in the sun lol not a reliable option, but if its just builders mix thats sweet it can sit out and blow around, if I loose it to the wind its no drama I also like his idea of fitting the ceramic tips Have added it to the list of projects

I've always discounted them due to the cost of the media..... drying the media afterwoods is a real challange around here, I could use the oven but its an expensive way and it brings all the issues of contaminant fumes into the house Last price I seen for Garnnet was $40 for 10kgs.... watching videos on Youtube I'd estimate 40-60 kg's of media to blast a chassis so $160-240 for media and a whole day.... the last chassis I got blasted cost me $350 (I set it up on the rotisserie and took it down) and half a day to drop off and pick up I've found a way I might be able to dry the sand for free.... I'm looking at solar air drying fruit next yr (Apples, Pears and any damaged appricots). Going to build a version of this https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/tools/solar-food-dehydrator-plans-zm0z14jjzmar The big bonus with the water/media blaster is blasting large vehicle pannels, this is something I always get nervous sending to the blasters and they are expensive

Not much to show I've been a bit distracted with custom pannel work and rust repairs Got another organizer done for all my fuses and relays..... changed rolls in the printer, same brand, same colour, but its not the same plastic.... I'd gotten a good handle on the previous couple of rolls by adjusting temps over the recomended (increased bed temp, to stop the corners of the base lifting and 10 degrees more on the extruder head improved layer adhesion without any drop in print qaulity)..... this roll I've gotten corner lifting on every print regardless of what I do (going to fit my glass bed and try with hair spray for the next one I do), I've had to reduce layer width down to a qaulity setting to guaranty layer adhession.... The layer height also helped with stringing Due to me being a cheap person I'm not that keen on I'm not going to redo the prints lol its an organizer I only use a few times a year I've also finished the engineering on the corner scales All made from the "its too good to throw out pile" lol the 10mm top from the offcuts of the chassis table and tube is some offcut exhaust tube and the sqaure covers are holesaw cutouts from speedholes I did discover the exhaust tube isn't round.... put them in the lathe to smooth off the welds and discovered there was enough runout I could have cut the wall out.... so I freehanded them on a flap disk Now I've got to sort out the design for the display and solder up the wiring and I can test these out

I did a little research lol I was curious It was about the time they changed from paper and cork to plastic as the seal, they developed a standard for bottle caps.... with 21 crimps I can remember as a kid (70-80's) getting soda bottles with cork caps.... I think it may have been mid 80's when they changed to the plastic and I'll bet 21 crimps

After one 10hr wasted print there we have it the RivNuts sorted I'm starting to learn a few things about tuning and conditions..... one of these is, I'm getting a bit of humidity in the plastic (reduced qaulity on the detail bits, stringing, the extruder contines to extrude while the head is hot and if you look at these "tails" you can see little "nodules" on the side of the strand.... and this was on a roll that has only been open about 4 days and printing for most of that time! I need to get my dry storage finished, I've got all the bits here, got the temperature controller working, got the fridge sorted.... I just need to print the enclosure for the temp controler and the new fitting for the light.... catch is I want to print these in ABS and I don't have an enclosure yet or some binder clips to hold the glass bed on (been warned the magnetic bed sheet may stop sticking due to heat) I think I'll get some clips and give it a go anyway..... I'm using ABS for the higher melting temp, the controller will go into the outside of the door and the light fitting will mount into the foam using tapered double screw... I'm hoping it will mount the bulb as far out of the way as possible and with the tappered screw nice and securerly the bit at the back is just there to sheild the electrical screw connections from any of the insulation and should mate to the sheetmetal outside of the fridge Right I had better go..... I need to go finish one mates car (engine bay strip and smooth) so I can make room for rust repair for another mate