De Ranged

you learn something new every day..... now I'm curious as to why invest all that money in tooling to drop three crimps and wondering if they did the same here

Lol an illusion trust me..... my miss's was laughing about me swearing at the computer... some days I can spend hrs to achieve something simple and still come out wrong lol the organizer above is an example..... I got the first 1/4 printed and did a trail fit of the collets, hmmmm they didn't fit.... so open up the model and discovered that a copy and paste of a sketch had dropped some of its contrants and as I moved things to line up it narrowed the sketch lol But next time I do a copy and paste like that I'll know to check lol

Having a sorted, organized, decluttered workshop has been a dream of mine.... with the new shed (at home) getting closer to happening, and having time off I'm working towards this, my goal is when I move into the shed I try to make the dream lol And its very good at teaching me to properly use solidworks, its surprising how much time goes into the SW's model.... but I'm getting better with each one and a little faster Modeling things first has also helped tweek my design process.... a case of this is the chassis table, having revisited the file a few times I've noticed a few things I can improve, I've changed the design for the bolt together attactment so that I can adjust it and level the bits as they bolt together.... as simple as adding four M10 bolts as adjusters and changing the mounting bolt holes to 21mm dia something I would have struggled to do after I'd built it Here's a couple of models of things I'm working on The RivNut organizer Thats in the printer now.... the next part is working out how to change the font on SW's and print some handles that are labeled.... so when these are stacked up in the tool stand or the bolt store etc I'll be able to identify them at a glance This is the scale part of the Corner Chassis Scales / Suspension Scales Heres another where Modeling it has helped me improve, I'm adding a M6 counter sunk cap on the side of the pad... this will attach the "pad" to the scale so I can take the M16 caps out of the center of the pad and replace them with some studs, this then allows me to stack legs to these..... so I can mount these on the chassis table where the suspension loads. That way I'm able to install components into a frame and even out my corner weights as I build..... I can bolt this into where a coil or coilover goes to measure the suspension load for calculating spring rates..... I can even replace the pads with eye bolts and use this in the engine crane to weigh stuff I'm currently modeling the housing that will hold the display for the scale (not looking forward to the electric-ery part of this project lol another bit that is stretching my skills and I'm having to learn lol)

Yep, 4 prints to each tray I was going to do them with the vacumn former but thats in my tool box in Australia lol, I've got the printer so why not

Just a wee bit from the crimp connector box.... what prompted this is, have you ever bought a blister pack of crimps think its 20 units..... ever noticed thats too many to fit in the little pockets that come in the kits, also they never have enough pockets to seperate out male and female crimps ..... thats the excuse I'm using instead of OCD lol Now back to my OCD and the waterproof plug's...... done I've still got the electrical tool kit to do..... a couple of the tools were in my ute back at work (in Australia) before covid, talking with mates over there... my ute has been returned and those tools are most likely lost lol so I've just ordered some replacements so hopefully I'll have all this sorted soon Finally starting to get some of my stuff in the post.... so the list of shop projects at the moment Chassis Table (all cut ready to start drilling and welding... and a little bit of machining for the adjustable legs) The Tool Organizers... I'm working on the design for my RivNuts tonight The dry heated storage container for my printer fillament (need some clips to hold the glass bed for printer and I'm go, the fridge has been prep'ed and the thermal controler sorted) And Suspension/Corner Weight Scales (got almost all the bits, got to finish the design for the display, started the engineering for the scales) Oh and doing a shave and smooth on a mates engine bay lol Been told theres next to no work due to covid so lol I'll keep busy

I've used normal PVC wire reinforced hose (think it was 3" ) with rags rapped around the tail pipe when dealling with fumeing motors in the shop.... and it would have been 8 -10m worth to get it out the door..... But I've only ever run em for half n hr max and I'm not running with a load so less heat.... tuneing timing, injector issues or cooling And I've had no issues with the pipe melting.... I have blown the pipe off a few times tho lol The local dyno just runs a pair of fans (ordinary workshop fans), 1 infront of the radiator and the other with under the roller door with it shut to just above the fan... the dyno is about 2-3m in from the door, but I think they have a side door open as well to create a draught

Been a bit distracted.... sorting out the 3D printer and a couple of other things Got the first of the tool & supply organisers sorted, 4 days of printer... think the longest print was 16hrs Next one is the Waterproof plugs

Thank you Call it OCD but I hate single or limited colour looms.... here is one I found today on my mates car the loom has some damage from a previous life and they had cut some of the loom off, now just from the wire colours and manual I was able to tell the lad what these were.... so I need lots of colours. This too me is a bare minimum lol I'll buy and collect more.... and this is only 10amp stuff I still need some 15amp stuff, why I made extra room..... having these done should make the loom on the 40 series alot nicer to do lol Got a bit of time down the shed today where I was able to do a bit more work on the Chassis Table..... I'm getting sick of grinding dust lol but I only have one more part to cut down.... I also got 1/3rd of the 10mm stuff to plate the ends.... my poor little bandsaw wasn't happy about the long cuts on fine tooth blade, jammed up a couple times..... hopefully the blade lasts Got a little present in the mail.... finally got the cutting tips for the 3mm Acme thread for the legs If I've got some energy left after my mtbike ride then I'll keep going lol

Had a good day in the shop yesterday..... Got the Wire Racks finished.... finally lol not like its taken me months to do... The spindles have a step machined in the end so they "catch" in the hole in the side plate so its easy to do up The blue isn't an exciting colour lol but I got it to match the new bead roller and sheet metal working tools I got recently at auction.... the other reason is its is light enough in colour I'm thinking it will help "lighten up" the workshop.... my lighting or lack of it is an issue... and according to all the property programs nice neutral pale colours help make spaces bigger and more air-ry, yay I need more space in my shop lol Had a bit of time on my hands I was suppposed to have a mate bring in his project car for a trans tunnel repair.... previous owner had done some work to covert it to manual and fit a hydralic hand brake unfortunatly didn't know much about welding so I'm helping him fix the damage and do it properly, he's helped me out over the years and this is his first project so I'm helping him out (pushing him along lol) ..... ended up "pushing" his motovation after he turned up without his car lol..... he's bringing it around today around 2 lol So I started trimming the ends of the Unerversial Beams for the Chassis Table.... hopefully finish this today

How far do you want to go.... cost and appearance wise I try to do as much as possible as hardline, and I favor Aluminium over copper just on price but you really do need proper benders..... nothing worse than bending up a long length and kinking the last bend lol... I have used a bit of Aluminized steel line as well and had no issues... to be honest if I could find this again I'd probably use it again due to it being stronger and better wear resistance When I do flexible sections I prefer to use the proper rubber, reinforced Nitrile (sp?) (and I tend to use the one is for higher pressure of EFI systems... it saves getting caught out and having a hose blow because I've used the low pressure carb line on an EFI system) I hate working with the stainless braid (always stab my fingers lol) The main reason why I don't use the stainless over braid line is expense... but as a side note after a bit of use I've noticed it has a tendency to fray and grab you when your working around it That said I'm going to run some AN fittings on my next two builds as they are sort of getting a bit of show pony treatment.... (doing some research to get the majority of the fittings ex China to try and save some money lol these things are silly expensive compared to normal hose) One other thing if you use rubber line consider your hose clamps.... for my stuff I only use "bolt" style bango clamps not the "screw" clamps. Another clamp I hate is the Jappers use these folded wire bolt clamps, the clamp cuts into the hose over time

How far do you want to go.... cost and appearance wise I try to do as much as possible as hardline, and I favor Aluminium over copper just on price but you really do need proper benders..... nothing worse than bending up a long length and kinking the last bend lol... I have used a bit of Aluminized steel line as well and had no issues... to be honest if I could find this again I'd probably use it again due to it being stronger and better wear resistance When I do flexible sections I prefer to use the proper rubber, reinforced Nitrile (sp?) (and I tend to use the one is for higher pressure of EFI systems... it saves getting caught out and having a hose blow because I've used the low pressure carb line on an EFI system) I hate working with the stainless braid (always stab my fingers lol) The main reason why I don't use the stainless over braid line is expense... but as a side note after a bit of use I've noticed it has a tendency to fray and grab you when your working around it That said I'm going to run some AN fittings on my next two builds as they are sort of getting a bit of show pony treatment.... (doing some research to get the majority of the fittings ex China to try and save some money lol these things are silly expensive compared to normal hose) One other thing if you use rubber line consider your hose clamps.... for my stuff I only use "bolt" style bango clamps not the "screw" clamps. Another clamp I hate is the Jappers use these folded wire bolt clamps, the clamp cuts into the hose over time

Finished all the machining on "wine racks" lol and will finish painting today .... Will get some pics of them when I'm done Heres a little taster for the rest of the tool sort out for my electrical stuff.... I picked up some tool/part organisers cheap, they are robust and don't have lots of irrelevant design carp to them to make them look "tough" (that just takes up space lol).... and they have removable internals I was originally going to do this with Teng Organiser stuff but here in NZ we don't get the cheap deals on Teng stuff lol and the other part is my vacumn former is in my Australian tool box (we arn't allowed to travel to Australia till Covid is sorted) so here is some 3D printing

That makes sense... I was guessing old stock from the 90's

It just made sense.... instead of having a tank that leaks oil into the case etc, cheers Had a good day today.... got all the nuts for the wire rack spindles done and some of the bits they will screw too that I'm going to weld to the end of the spindle tube (will make more sense tomorrow hopefully lol) Got the UB cut for the chassis table..... Had a bit of a think on the design and I'm giving it an option to run wider and need some more 310 UB 40 but this is an option thing to make it a bit more adaptable I'll just keep an eye out with the local engineers So 2x 2m lengths as the main beams, 2x mid beams (to run the outside at 700mm wide and 1.2m), 6x 250mm side extentions and 2x 500mm side extentions Haven't got the cutting tips yet for the adjustable screws on the legs.... but I do have the center pins for the Mag drill so I'll be able to start drilling the assembly holes 😔

I've just finished setting up all new stuff just for this while the Deutsch stuff is great they are expensive and as a minor inconvience the plugs are shaped I've gone to a GM clone off ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240-Pcs-12V-Electrical-Terminal-Wire-Connectors-Kits-1-2-3-4-5-6-Pin-Waterproof/223813839718?hash=item341c582b66:g:lE8AAOSw4vpeAsWs If you shop around they are real cheap (think my 3 pin I got 10 of them for $5 delivered), are waterproof and the plugs are flat, (easy to zip tie down) Tools wise mine are all Teng but they arn't the best in qaulity and price... reason why I chose them is nobody onsite uses them and they are hard to get hold of in NZ so none of my mates have em.... I find Teng stuff in someone else box, its mine lol I've got two types of wire stripper the classic version https://nz.element14.com/proskit-industries/22-10810/automatic-wire-stripper/dp/2783638?gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU8awev7cjg8E8uHVgcdgrQH--gT0qu1-_UVCh1epadE2pGAXA0k66xoCuIUQAvD_BwE&mckv=_dc|pcrid|399474782117|pkw||pmt||slid||product|2783638|pgrid|86460843753|ptaid|pla-336893085348|&CMP=KNC-GOO-SHOPPING-2783638 Which are good for strippng where the ends aren't all cut for a join or for a splice etc and I have a set of these https://nz.element14.com/duratool/d01022/wire-stripper-super-no-5/dp/1696726?gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU4uDpidgb4ea2IEohsASMv9plOvb6-Uh3Phw2bIwAuR8HMTChp2sGRoCVUsQAvD_BwE&mckv=_dc|pcrid|399474782117|pkw||pmt||slid||product|1696726|pgrid|86460843753|ptaid|pla-336893085348|&CMP=KNC-GOO-SHOPPING-1696726 they are great if your doing plugs or such where your stripping off just enough for a crimp fit, and your able to slip the end of the wire into the stripper (shop around there are alot of cheaper versions of both) Crimpers, for yrs all I've used is one of these https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/electrical-tools-accessories/crimping-tool-with-an-80-piece-connector-kit?gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU6pLF7lWyiAQrlksJ-4CTDsMBulD5SvxvnUPOX7EU2PpwFHSjlq3EhoCflQQAvD_BwE So long as you use em right they work, I even used them on terminal connectors. But I've finally gone and bought a set of ratchet crimpers and they are very nice to use https://www.motoquipe.co.nz/buy/teng-tools-4-piece-ratchet-crimping-set-ttcp04/TTCP04TENG?gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNUwLDusFEToPTolnuh6xYtVbOYIbPNRnBsoNtAVdRGQ0BBsLDIZ3hRBoCdpcQAvD_BwE Now catch with ratchet crimpers is some of these are made for giants or at least mutant people with increadably large hands lol I would recomend going and playing before you buy

Not much of an update, I ended up being a relationship guidence counciler for a mate lol so no real help just helped him empty my fridge But I did manage to check out the Mag drill and build a lube tank holder for it The brushes were sparking alot, pulled the cover off the motor and had a look no damage to the stator but there was some fine score marks and the brushes were near new, so I filed a little lead in champher on the brushes and ran it without load...... it reduced it considerably. I'm guessing it may have gotten wet with some grinding slag on there, after a few minutes of running the issue went away I looked at building or buying a tank but I thought of something a bit smarter..... I have these 1L bottles of heavy cutting oil I use, the factory bottle is good so I use it in these.... why not set it up to use these I'll use some slicon pipe just slipped over the tip to seal it to the plastic pipe to the arbour and let the center pin seal turn it off and on, The paint is a funny product I got ages ago (on special lol)..... a heavyily textured paint that sort of bubbles as you spray it..... and its the very politically incorrect colour of "Negro" surprisingly they no longer stock it lol

Lol Yes there is.... the design was about learning Solidworks and I felt the design was cool enough to build so here I am Heres some of the "wine" they will carry lol I'm organizing my workshop, Tidying up every thing and building a few of things I've wanted for a while, like the chassis table..... this is part of the plan for the new workshop Right got a bit of time yesterday so set too on the rest of the stays for these racks Made a simple jig on the welding table so I could weld the washers on.... put the washer on the jig fit the bar through washer into jig, weld as I turn the rod.... next one, then let them cool and do the other end.... let them cool, over to the lathe, mount, spin off half a mm, face washer, champher, remove and mount other end, repeat.... next one, then over to the bench mount in the vice, oil tap down, flip die over and chase thread to washer, clamp other end up in vice and repeat.... next one After a few hrs of work I have these Thats the welding jig welded to the table to the left of them.... That adjustable foot is for another project (when some more parts arrive) a set of wheel scales and I'm working on some other ideas as well...... There probably won't be any updates for a day or two as I'm waiting on a steel delivery to finish these racks and I have some other stuff to sort

NO.... it means I'd have some of that weird fitting stuff and I'd have to go buy it, The thought did cross my mind and it has in the past when I've used this material before and needed to thread it (i have ALOT of it lol) the main reason why I don't is I'll end up mixing up similar sized nuts and bolts so I only stock metric I'll stop off and grab another packet of M6 washers and finish these off today and start the spindles

I was using them all the time is Australia because they are realisticly the only way to cut Bissalloy and Hardox. Had a dry fit inside the beam..... the drill is definitly too big to fit in the beam cross ways but because its able to do the larger cutters, the drill is further from the magnet... (the one I got in Australia is only capable of cutting 35mm and is alot closer to the magnet).... but because of the extra distance it lets me run it at an angle, and fits no proplems.... ordered a pin last night, guessing that will be here mid week then I get to give it a play...... Well I had a better than expected day in the shop yesterday..... got my mates stuff sorted very quickly so got all the holes drilled, formed and dimpled The large raised dimples had to be stretched on a sandbag prior to pressing and most of them needed a bit more stretching and re-pressing with the die to stop them pulling and twisting the panels it mightn't look it but that is a large form...... because I was going hard to get them done (had to be home by a set time lol) there is the odd one that got a bit to much pre stretching with the mallet and when I pressed the dies and not all the mallet marks are pulled out I'm not going to bother planishing them out as I'm going to give them a resumble powder coat.... so I don't think you'll be able to see them when they are coated (Just need to get my powder coating gun over here from Australia lol) I was going so well I got some of the rod "stays" sorted as well... till I ran out of 6mm washers lol I decided to give them a bit of clamping with 6mm washers..... its a little frustrating the rod is from auction win yrs ago and is 1/4".... I'm putting M6 nuts on it so need to take 0.5mm off before I tap.... but its using up some odd material lol

Just packing up to head to the workshop and the posty pulls in (I'm on rural delievery) he doesn't normally work a Saterday but there are that many parcels he's decided to do a run.... and he has my cutting tips Yes..... open them up and No.... lol they have sent out 3mm ISO threading tips lol so half n hr on the phone my tips are being ordered lol going to be up to 10 days wait till I see em lol But I also got a new toy! It's way more than I need it can do 60mm cutters the photo on trademe wasn't very good I sort of took a punt it was what I thought it was..... and its a bit bigger than what I antisipated.... it may not fit sideways inside the beam for the chassis table might require a bit of a redesign Heres a bit of math that prompted my decission to buy this To hire a mag drill for a day is around $200 plus I'd have to buy at least a couple of cutters to do all the holes I want $80 (better off buying three so $120) , assuming I get them done in one day I'm looking at $320 to drill all the holes in the chassis table, if I don't get it back by 5pm then its $520...... this came up on Trademe for $800 and with all the cutter's (and only one of them needs a sharpen lol) it was kind of a no brainer..... only catch is there is no lube tank or hose but I do have the lube spindle... oh and no center pins but I should be able to sort them easy enough Now off to the shed lol

Finished all the hammer forming ..... unfortunatly I had a bit of an issue the "table catch's" hook at the bottom beat me A 20mm gap just isn't enough room to control and manipulate the metal, because I wasn't able to dirrectionally hit the alloy sheet as I formed it around the hook.... I was having to sweep the pick end of the hammer through the gap. This ment I was pulling on the metal on the end of the hook.... I got a couple formed using wooden bucks but it broke the bucks doing it so I made a steel buck and without that give of the wood this is the result So after a bit of pondering I made the call to remove the hook.... And here we are all 8 of them hammer formed and center punched ready to drill and dimple, I'll also have to drag the Tig back to the shop and weld up a little join where the hook was but that will probably happen when I've got these built as I'm using the tig as a stick welder at home I've got to finish the front strut brace for my mates toy and sort his front drive shaft so that should leave me a couple of hrs this arvo to drill and form these sides.... maybe another photo tomorrow lol

Run into a bit of a hitch.... contacted my Carbide tip supplier to get a set of internal and external Buttress or Acme threading tips problem is they can't supply anything with a large enough thread pitch in a 16mm triangular tip. I've had to call around NZ best I can do is a 3mm pitch Acme.... I was hopeing to get a 4mm or 6TPI.... the 3mm will still hold, I'll just make the nuts a little bit deeper The tips are now coming from Auckland managed to find some in stock... catch is they won't arrive till mid way through next week lol So when I hit a piont on my mates truck where I needed some feedback.... I bit the bullet and started hammer forming the sides of the wire rack pieces ( a job I've been putting off lol I knew it would hurt... I'm sitting here with a sore shoulder and elbow..... and I still have two more sides to form ) I'll get some pics tonight

I use another grinder with a grinding wheel.... put one in the vice (running) and brace guard to guard and grind the fiber glass back, I can undercut the glass a bit this way Now for the safety bit lol I'm pretty certain that powdered fiberglass is real bad if you breath it in.... just out of paranoia I wear my resperator when I do

LRF I had a couple of goes at taking a picture of the harmoninic patern lol my cell phone camera just isn't that good..... maybe in the future when I've been forced into buying a new'er time wasting device lol Been helping out a mate with his project, He's almost finished so I'm trying to get him over the line.... catch is I'm just finding so many things that are wrong with previous work (that he paid for!) anyway its ment that I've sort of put what I'm doing on hold a bit I did finish the machining on the feet for the chassis table, not the fastest job machining out stepped bits of tube out of solid lol. But I'm done and I've used up some more of my stockpile of "its to good to throw out" I discovered that the piece of pin steel was hardened lol.... I still cut it, my tips were going blunt so I kept cutting (its the one on the right sitting up, the tell tail that its hardened is the shinny surface that hasn't been finished... I'm painting these so I'm not bothering with a finish cut, I just slowed down the feed rate on my final cut). I got a couple of blanks out of the Pin that I'm going to use to make some adjusting nuts.... but before I machine them I'm going to heat them up and anneal them, I'll know afterwards when I face them off in the lathe if I'm right about it being a version of 4140 (or similar) Oh got Mildly miffed off after wasting a 3 days waiting for a local contractor.... so I could get into his yard to buy a couple of second hand UB's..... "Oh sorry mate, I forgot.... can we do it tomorrow...." after the third time he wasn't even answering his phone lol.... so I went and bought a brand new one..... "cough, choke" 650kg of beam!

Not in this case I'm getting a sort of wave pattern and its not consistant with the entry of the cut....Done a bit of reading..... Stainless can work harden if your feed rate is too low, my shop saw is a cheap gravity feed (no feed just the weight of the saw) I do have some weights I hang on it, but I don't use them often because the bands are not very deep and it can stretch the blade allowing it to cut off I know that pattern your refering to..... I could be wrong in this lol I haven't spent too many hrs on decent bandsaws, I've found when I got that pattern its worth checking my chip, normally you'll find it is fine with no curl.... I've found increasing band speed will increase size of the chip and you should get a little curl to it.... if the chip has changed colour then slow it down and change your feed rate As I said my bandsaw is a cheapy and has a couple of noval issues I'm going to have to sort at some stage lol The discharge wheel will run the band off if I move the cutting guide too far away from it (cutting something small), the guide rollers don't have any adjustment to close up on the band so I have accuracy issues with some bands that are a little narrower and have room to wander.... it does have variable speed (3 tier V belt drive) catch is its not subtle lol and too adjust it I have to de-mount the motor, been planing on a variable controler to give me a tuneing speed control and throw an idler pulley into the mix so changing gears is quick n easy