De Ranged

Got some of the engine mounts done This one was alot of fun lol Got the one on Drivers side to do.... its the worst as all the bolts I have to mount to are in one plane

Motor is sitting about right.... still got to finalize placement depending on if I can turn the intake manifold to face forward going to take a bit of time to strip all the carp off the top of it so I can see The whole truck and chassis will drop when I'm done Here is a shot from the back both of us are going to be sitting on a bit of an angle, and there wont be alot of foot room lol but its do-able Had one casualty transporting and moving the motor around its one of the egr valves so if the computer can play without it then I'll blank it off and run without

Had a bit of a day on it yesterday not much to show for all the hrs put in but I'm ready to sling the motor in and mount it Made some engine mounts And yes my travel speed was all over the show with these welds lol the welds are non critical and I'd been in the shed for 13hrs and wanted to go home so I cheated (wound up the voltage and wire feed and sprinted lol) I should have left one un-buffed they were a nice blue colour And here's what took so long Finished the rear lower link mounts, added a temp X member and removed the old gearbox one (was bent) then went over the chassis fixing previous dodgy repairs, gouge marks and a couple of cracks that resulted from these so now I'm ready to sling the motor in and mount that

yep, still there, its on the list I just needed this done for my mate

Been thinking and since this is a trials style toy I want the tyres clear of the guards....... has anyone seen a dovetailed series landy lol, the back end with some skins to look similar to a shorty tub deck dovetailed I think would look really cool.... its the front guards I can't seem to get the look right in my head lol anyone seen it done or better yet got pic's surly I'm not the first to consider this.....

Time for the motor and box to go in so had to clean a bit of the carp that was in the way lol

lol your asking how long a piece of string is...... for me you have some of the issues covered, you also have to consider HP/Torque (force), how different the mounting patterns are (leverage), auto or manual and how harsh and often the extreme loadings are going to be Based off the fact this is a 4wd site I'm guessing harsh usage so I'd look more towards the mild steel option.... if your concerned about weight cut some speed holes in it to reduce weight

Your both sort of right about the longer length With out going into a huge post on suspension dynamics, I'm guessing you both know about Triarged 4 link calculator..... I had a version that I've put alot of time into, one of the extras I'd added was graphs to show the different values at different travels and the rate of change in these values, I'm demonstrating to a client the reason why the common rules apply (you know, flatish bottom links, top link two third the bottom link etc) So I was adjusting the mounting points to extremes (shortened the top links and lengthened the bottom link by changing its mounting to behind the axle) the rear mounted bottom links was to counter pinion angle due to the now around 1/2 ratio top links and to extend the bottom link length to show my point ....... I had made my point and he understood, but I noticed the AS graph had reversed..... normally it is a linear rise as the suspension drops, this time it dropped as the suspension dropped! Now one of the issues with high AS for offroad is as you are using the AS for acceleration it extends and locks out the suspension so if we are on rough ground we loose traction because the wheels being carried over the bumps not tracking them...... I couldn't get my head around this changed graph the dynamics of it lol right AS is the jacking of the suspension under acceleration yes, so as the suspension pushes up (= and opposite reaction thing) so for the push up there is more down force on the tyres.... more grip ..... in a classic suspension as it extends it changes the link angles and you get more AS generating more down force etc This odd suspension lost AS as it extended, so...... accelerate, we have a high AS so the links push the body up, but as they push the body up they change there angle causing less AS.... do they now drop down? or stop and find a balance where they aren't pushing and locking the suspension out? I really couldn't work it out..... would it cause the back end to bounce (push up and drop down, push up and drop down) or would it extend and go stable So I built it on the old landy and its about to get reused here on this..... it worked on the old landy and I'm hopeing it works on here

lol I'm working in Australia at the moment..... Got a bit more done..... started working through my plan to change a few things, this pic shows just how small the chassis is and how far the spring mount was (the one on the Left is cut off but the slaggy piece on the Right is the spring mount) I did a small flex up to check clearance for the extra holes on the Chassis Top Link mounts, this is with the 12" shocks I was planing, I do have a set of 16" procomps sitting there lol.... if I was to drop them in I'd set it up for extra drop.... dunno Might be a little delayed on this one as I need to do some engine work on the 40 series and I've got ALOT of paper work and research to do on a new project.... an airbaged 6 wheel toy hauler custom beaver tail truck with I'm guessing an old BMC truck cab (didn't really want to do it now but the cab kinda landed in my lap and I've always wanted a toy hauler lol)

Mate its simple its just one small step after another and after ALOT of them you finish..... people get bogged down because they stop looking at the simple little steps and look at the whole and get overwhelmed lol Dragged the sides I made for the landy out of one of the piles so I could get a measure..... a box of cans, a bit of distraction from mates and a little bit of work later I have one chassis rail boxed up and with a little bit of Cardboard Aided Design the brace to run from the inside of the bottom link mount to the top of the new chassis Part of the deal with the box of cans was a fair bit of time just staring at the rear end and the landy side working out a plan..... more than a few things I wanted to do have had a flow on effect..... to the left you can see the original motor gearbox mount that hangs down alot below the truck, I want to bring the motor up and lower the whole truck belly about 450mm. So that means the old landy X member is in the way lol but if this goes the problem is its the support for the springs that are mounted inboard of the bottom links...... too much leverage for a short narrow sheetmetal chassis. So I came up with the idea of cutting them off and mounting them outside of the bottom links where the structure is going to run from the chassis to the box section outrigger of the cab, this gives me an improvement (wider spring setup means more stability) and with the springs no longer there I can modify the top link chassis mounts for more triangulation (wider mounting) and I can run a couple more adjustments for the top links to increase AS........ yes I know this goes against current trends, but this link setup decreases AS as the suspension extends, the opposite of a normal link setup.... On the landy it worked really well even with a high AS and under power the suspension tracked really well so I like the idea of more adjustment just to see how the changes in performance

Finally back on this..... been working on the 40 series done a custom stainless tank & changed it over to forklift lpg bottles as well as sorting the rear end to straighten it up, Carved out the rear of this thing.... got the rear axle out using a gas axe lol cleaned it up and did a shave and and then decided to change to non steering rear axle so pulled an axle out of my parts store and shaved it and braced it fitted the link tabs off the old landrover axle and fitted up the old landrover links.... I'm at the stage I'm about to fit the part of the landy chassis I saved, its a wee bit of a challange mating the landrover chassis to an old Suzuki LJ70 chassis lol a bit of size difference

Gidday Glad my ideas have helped out..... As for me I still have the shed full of toys, but due to work I'm just not getting time to work on them...... I'm now working in Australia on bigger and alot more complicated machinery..... and I'm re-engineering them to work better lol my machine is the one infront of the digger it cuts a 1.2m deep trench and lays 3 x 70mm dia High Voltage cables as well as a fiber and bare earth all bedded in sand and back filled with protective covers and warning tapes I have bought another toy that is cool an old FJ40 and I'm just working at the moment to sort it out so I can leave it down Christchurch with a mate and use it for runs in the South Island.... planing a run down south of Haast a week of serious 4wd'n, there is one track we want to do that will require winching down a 10m cliff face into a river lol if your interested here is the original build thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rotw-gertrude-1975-fj40.61345/ For the books I haven't forgotten either of my projects but just the way things are I don't know when/if I'll be able to get back to them.... I miss my shed lol the whole creative problem solving thing but just at the moment ...

Boydie your mate is legendary.... a thousand ks a week that is insane, for reference when I was the chairman of the local MTBike club I was ridding near on everywhere so commuting and playing as well as training with a guy who was trying out for a place at the commonwealth games and I only rode 400k's a week and he is twice the age I was when I was doing this Does he have a facebook page or something I'd be keen on following his progress

What would you know Pick a Part have one.... well they have one that has been there for several months lol hoping to find out if it still has its motor tomorrow so I may fix this one yet.... if I do I"ll bif the suspension out of the landy in it Been invited to do a trip down Haast on the westcoast, would be real cool to go do as the land owner might be closing access due to idiots not respecting his farm when they drive through

A wee but intense update lol blown the trials truck up! Got the beadlocks and new tyres on sorted all the issues... New brake booster to give me more brakes, broken exhust, oil change, onboard air to run the lockers, a snorkel etc loaded it up on a trailer and over the west coast for 3 days of testing Gave it a good 20 mins warm up at the carpark where we unloaded.... set off up the access road towards the first track, got about a km up when it (I'm guessing from the style of crack) dropped a small end and smashed the block But in that km I discovered how bad rear radius arms can be lol, due to the excessive AS any form of torque caused the rear suspension to extend to the limiting chains lol did I mention this was some rough engineering..... as the suspension cycles it causes excessive amounts of rear steer.... this wasn't so bad when playing in the drain on the side of the road but when I was onroad it was bad enough that anything past about 30km/hr it was almost impossible to keep it within my lane!... and this was the top truck in Southland LOL So the end result is I have a truck that needs the rear suspension removed and replaced, if I'm to replace the motor with the new one it is different enough I'm going to have to modify most of the engine bay to fit and replace all the wiring and controls..... If I can find a replacement motor at "Pick a Part" I'll consider it but at this stage I think I'm better off to put my time and money into Mk II

Yep it is about that, and no I'm not thinking of leaving it at that gearing lol I'm planing on using a toothed belt drive to adjust the final gearing but this is dependent on the rpm of the motors this dictates the size of the pulleys this plus the hp of the motors dictates the width of the belt so I need to sort motors first final range will also depend on estimates of amp draw (this I'm still stuggling with lol) I'm expecting the final gearing to be around the 60:1 range

Been pulling some big hrs at work that has killed the motivation for a while lol but got a trip this easter on the West Coast so working to get the "toy" sorted Got the rims back from sandblasting and galv Got them re-tapped and the tyres mounted just waiting to see if there are any leaks before I put them on the truck... heading in this arvo to do that and sort the exhaust and fuel tank leaks, then this week replace the brake master and booster and sort the onboard air so the lockers can work and I'm all good to head out thurs night Been doing a bit of research on building a comp winch.... twin motor electric Decided to base it off a PTO winch the worm gear sorts the brake issues and makes the freespool nice en simple, also I picked up this for $250 at that price it was way to hard to turn down and after a steam clean found its in mint condition Still doing research on motor options I was going to grab a couple of 6hp Ramsey motors off ebay worked out at about $200 each delivered catch is there free running rpm is only 2100, compare this to a Runva 8.6hp motor that they have told me spins at 7000rpm (waiting on confirmation on this as it seems a bit high given a warn is 4000rpm) and I haven't got into the calcs yet for Amps lol the 8.6hp might be too big to run 2 up

Thanks for the comments The axle swop isn't as easy lol as it has its own compromises most of the local boys just drop hilux axles under them, my mate wanted to run a sals rear so I couldn't match the diffs this was the only answer lol other than a VERY expensive (once its landed in New Zealand!) Zeus kit witch wont match this for performance should he decide to run to larger wheels in the future For the books the calipers are a 4 pot with I think around 5mm less size than the landy 110 pots but due to the size of the disk (dia) I got under there I think they will out perform the standard 110 setup To be honest Arjan if I was still running the shop, given the amount of work involved in these the charge out would be about the same as the Zeus kits

I'm sorry, was in a bit of a rush to get back to the misses to give her, her time and forgot to snap some shots of the disk mount.... if anybody is interested next time I'm in the shed I can get the dimensions for this Cheers Reece

A while back I asked for information on series hubs for a disk conversion I'm doing on a mate now 100" SII Here ya go, Mazda Series 7-8 Rx7 calipers (4 pot alloy) on a machined BMW X5 disk Not exactly a simple conversion I've got over 12hrs machining per side lol sorry about the blurry pic's camera is a bit cracked

Hmmm I have two landy orientated plans (neither involve landys lol ) Where I'm working finish stripping the motor and box from the donor car, CAD the motor and box in 3D then sort the design for the chassis and cage build a chassis table that I can roll in and out of the container and start to build the chassis for the toy series And on the one weekend in three I get home build the new workshop lay the concrete floor and wire it up so I have a new shed.... then move in!

Down to my last beadlock Hows that for low profile.... I hate big rings they trap the mud in the rim for reference they are 8mm bolts not 6mm They are a bit different in that the backside of the ring is "V" out on the seam and welded

A wee update Got some time in the shed working on a couple of things First up some stepped bolts for the shackles on the trailer.... the bolt head is just some nuts I thinned and drilled out the idea is I can set them to the right length when I've got the shackles together Also got enough time to finish machining this Thats both ends done and you can just see I polished the welds on the bottom while I had it off.... been thinking since I'm going to have the axles behind and in front of anything they need to clear as the suspension cycles I don't need to worry about where the diff pumpkin sits so I'm toying with mixing and matching inner shafts from trailgear for my longfields to give me some more width and reduce the scrub radius due to offsetting the rims with wheel spacers etc

Lol I want to keep this one till they take my licence off me for being old and dangerous and with the work I'm doing to it I don't want to have to re-do it !

Distortion, the heat from the cutting distorts the rings... they are the same inside dia both large and small yet if you lay them on each other they don't quite match up Second is there speed of cut, there is a slope to the cut that on a small hole like this I find makes the holes oval to put this in perspective the holes in the outer rim are 8mm I am still drilling them as most need about half a mm taken out where the oval has narrowed... if you mention your tapping the holes I've had one place slow the machine down for me so the holes were true.... unfortunately I have also had others that have told me they would and not, I now just modify my processes and go with the cheapest quote lol And the last reason why I don't is I have found in the past that the laser leaves the edge of the hole hardened, nothing much but enough that over this many holes I'd need a couple of taps due to increased wear... have been told water jet is best for this.... the only one who is running of these is also the dearest quote so haven't used them yet