BigMac1

Finally had chace today after work to do a bit more on the footwell. Managed to remove the old one, so I offered up the replacement that I'd painted last weekend. Here's a pic..... Now can anyone tell me if the huge gap is my fault for cutting too much of the old material off, or Paddocks for supplying an inferior part. Cheers Mick.

Before you fit the engine, fit the downpipe to the turbo. Use allen headed bolts to hold the downpipe to the manifold or you'll really struggle to get it back off when fitted in the engine bay. I learnt the hard way. Also before you fit the downpipe to the manifold, wrap it with some exhaust heat wrap. I bought some in blue off ebay for about £16. I took the old engine out in about 2 and a half hours on my own. Other than the engine hoist I used a basic 1/4 and 3/8 Halfords socket set, a set of spanners and a few screwdrivers. After you've removed all piping and wiring from the engine, and undone the bell housing bolts you can see/reach. Hoist the engine up and then remove the engine mounting rubbers, leave the metal mounts attatcehd to the engine for now. Then lower the engine to the mounts sit on the mounting brackest attatched to the chassis rail. You should now be able to undo the top/side bellhousing bolts. Once I'd done the timing belt and seals etc to the 200tdi, it was slid in, bolted and wired up in about another 2 hours. The pipe work is the hardest bit, but theres plenty info about on here and other forums. All being well I'll get chance to finish my air filter pipework off tomorrow or monday. I'll take some pics if I get it finished. Good luck, keep us posted. Mick.

These were the ones I was looking at for my 90. They look a tight fit in the pictures, its just are they the same as the pictures when there infront of you? Im now going buckets as my seats and runners are knackered beyond repair. Mick.

Have a read HERE to see how I've been getting on the past few days. It may save you some time on the phone. My advice is when you phone a company, before you give them ANY details, ask them if there's a chance they will insure an 18 year old on a modified Land Rover. Most will tell you straight away if they will or your swear filter is there for a reason in the wind. And could save you a 15 minute phone call before they tell you they can't help. Or come back in a year when you've got a years no claims. How the hell can you get a years no claims, if noone will insure you! Good luck! I'd be interested to know how you get on. Mick

It must be the engine swap combined with my age, that is a problem for them. In addition to the above companies, here's todays pathetic attempts: Ace: Under 21's have an engine cc limit of 2285 or similar. Academy: Under 25. Lancaster: Type of vehicle combined with my age and modifications. Adrian Flux: Was on hold for 5 minutes and gave up. Will try again tomorrow. What really annoyed me was Lancaster. By the time I got to them i was already annoyed, so i started with questions before they did. I asked what the likelyhood of a 20 year old insuring a modified Land Rover was, with their company. The reply was there should be no problems at all. After 20 minutes on the phone it turns out they cant help me at all, but can pass me onto their partner company. Why lie to me in the first place, and if you cant help me how is your partner company going to help? No prizes for guessing what I'm doing tomorrow. One totally miffed Mick.

After reading this thread last night, I thought I'd ring around for a quote on mine as it's going to be back on the road very shortly. A bit of background, I've just turned 20, had my licence 2 years and 9 months, but have no no clamis bonus. (Been a named driver for the past 3 years). My '89 90 has a disco 200TDI, bucket seats and heavy duty spings. Below is a list of the companies I rang this moning and thier responses: Footman James: Vehilce too modified. Frank Pickles : Not modified enough, or to be used offroad frequently enough. NFU Mutual: Licence held less than three years. Stuart Collins: Age, I'm not 21. I can kind of understand the last two, but the first two shock me. The modifications aren't drastic, or really dangerous. But yet not radical enough for Frank Pickles. Just seems strange to me. The guy I spoke to at Frank Pickles told me I needed to have a winch and rollcage etc to qualify for their insurance to cover me! My search will continue tomorrow, and I'll add the results if i get anywhere. Mick.

My old TD used to give false readings, telling me it was overheating when just started from cold. The wiring had corroded, and almost fell apart in my hands. Could be worthwhile following the green wire from the temp sender as far in the engine bay as you can just to check. Mick.

Screw a small self tapping screw into the old seal and prise it out with a claw hammer or a pair of pliers. When fitting the new seal use the old seal to knock it in, or a suitably sized socket. Old seal is more to hand though. Mick.

Western, thanks for that. I've lirerally just found the parts on lrseries. I'll be ordering the parts tomorrow, may aswell keep it standard and simple. Cheers Mick

The U section can't be bought seperatly though can it? I had a look on Microcat but it looked like that was part of a full door frame, unless thats for a 110. I should hope box section would be a strong enough repair, and the old bracketry swapped over. Floor will be easily removedable still I hope. Mick

I asked in a previous post on tips for the footwell repairs. In the end I've bought a footwell repair panel from paddocks. I also oredered a side panel for the battery box as I've been plating that up aswell. After an hours fettling today, the so called sill decided to come off in one large piece. Is box section welded to the rockslider going to be a good repair? Some pictures below of the nightmare. Any suggestions before I carry on greatly recieved. Starting to get a little fed up with it now...... Cheers Mick

Maybe something simonr at X-Eng or MUD-UK could help with, as providers of Carling switches. Just ordered some bits from both companies today and had great service. Alternatively, I think your looking into Marine/Boat supplies.## Mick.

Cheers for the replies. Doubt I'll have chance until the weekend to tackle the repairs and the weathers been carp. I'll try and remember some pics when I'm done. Mick.

After some tinkering this afternoon with the 90, I took the passenger footwell out with the intention of repairing it. I've got a rough idea of what I was going to do, but I'm interested in other people's views/opinions before I start the repairs. My idea was to cut away the rest of the rust from the footwell panel in the picture, then either rivet or weld a new piece of plate bent for the bottom footwell piece to bolt to. Am I right in saying that the footwell is double skinned? It certainly looks it. I was gong to remove the other panel thats rusted and have a better look but it's going to need the bolts grinding off and I've had enough of the grinder in the battery box today. On rebuild/repair I wont be double skinning it as its just going to be a water trap. Cheers Mick.

Tis a good tip that. I've also made a socket like Mike, from two old sockets that were worn. Mick.

Cheers for the replies guys. AD90, some pics would be nice. Sure others would appreciate it aswell. Although an X-Fan controller may be on my birthday list. Mick.

On the disco engine I've put in my 90 there's a switch/sensor on the thermostat housing. Is it a switch/sensor for the fans? Just wondering if I could use it to wire in an electric fan? Its the same as the twin pinned switch/sensor in this picture that I've stolen from the web...... Cheers Mick.

Cheers.

Can anyone tell me what pressure, a discovery 200tdi header tank cap is? Cheers Mick.

Just the ticket, thanks to both of you. I'll see how the fiddling about goes if it ever stops raining. Cheers Mick.

Cheers for the replies guys. Dave, should have said I was after the bottom hose for the radiator, DOH! Although that is a help as I've not got round to the lower intercooler hose... tomorrow's task. I've fitted the old 2.5TD bottom radiator hose, it fits on the radiator and the expansion tank no problems, but as the disco water pump outlet is at a different angle it wont fit. I did try fitting a 90 degree bend but the pipe kinked, so was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what they did. Anymore for anymore? Mick.

Sorry guys, I know its been covered in depth, but I cant get onto the pictures thread in the Archive. Can anyone post me a pic or two of how they've adapted the bottom hose, and how they've done the air filter connections/locations please. Thanks in advance, Mick.

I had no dash lights and nothing on the key while out offroading once. The live from the starter motor to the ignition had come of the starter end. (Even though it was a ring terminal, and had been on for approx 6 months after i changed the starter) Just make sure you haven't forgot one of the wires, or its been trapped somewhere and cut through. Although this was on a 19J the starter and wiring is the same. Mick.

I serviced my old mans C2 over the weekend. He fitted a K&N some time last year. We used 'this' kit to clean and oil the air filter. For the cost and the lifespan of the filter if serviced as it should, it doesn't work out that expensive, and better for the environment. Mick

As far as I'm aware its the same. Only thing is if yours doesn't have an oil cooler, you'll need to get some pipes made up or adapt the disco ones. Im most of the way through my conversion now, and its really easy so far. The hardest part looks to be how to pipe the turbo to intercooler as its close to the wing, and the air filter pipework. It took me about 5 hours to remove the old engine and fit the 200tdi on my own. Had a hand for about 5 mins with lining the new engine up onto the input shaft. That's not including replacing timing belt and clutch, seal etc on the disco engine though. One tip before you fit the engine is for the manifold downpipe, use allen headed bolts as normal bolts are almost impossible to get out with the engine bolted up. And wrap the downpipe with heat wrap before you fit the engine, i'm about to do it the hard way.