BigMac1

Yep, any crane or tail lift that carries people/passengers must be Loler inspected every 6 months. Non people carrying are 12 monthly. Costing us a fortune at work until June when out Loler course is renewed. Mick.

Great, thanks for the replies guys. On with wiring and piping then. Mick.

Exactly what i thought, as I've not seen two before. Not even on the modern stuff at work. I've got the disco loom at work so I'll have to see if there's any additional wiring to the other supressor. Anyone else seen it before and can comment would be a big help.. Cheers Mick

I had the same problem with Norwhich Union when one of my cars was stolen a few years ago. No help at all, and the offers were pathetic, it didn't even cover the scrap value of a car, let alone a replacement. It ended up becoming a 3 month battle to get a few hundered quid more out of them. However, I've been with CIS, part of the Co-Op for the past years or so and their prices are good and seem helpful enough when I've altered my details or vehicle. Not sure how they are with modifications though, but I'll be finding out in the next month or so. Mick

I've transplanted a disco engine into my 90 and will be connecting all the wiring up in the morning. I have a couple of questions though, as the alternator looks nothing like any of the pics i've seen whilst searching the archives. Pic attatched below... Is this a higher amperage alternator than the old TD one? Will I need to uprate any wiring to cope with an extra load? The disco had aircon fitted if it makes any difference. Also the supressor 23-92 has nowhere for the spade terminal to connect? or do I fit a ring terminal to the post just to the right? I think im right in saying the top stud is where the large brown wire goes and the smaller wire goes to the smaller stud on the right? All help appreciated, Cheers Mick

I bought the same as 'this' about 4 months ago. Its in daily use but as long as i keep it oiled it seems fine. Our airlines aren't really big enough to get its full potential. Mick

I think I'll go this route, as mine gets high pressure washed after every outing. Also I've used plasticote a few times and its brilliant paint. Cheers for all the input, Mick

I want to paint my ally chequer plate. At the minute its plain, but i'd like it black. Whats the best way to 'key' it for paint, and would I be alright with a normal spray can? Cheers Mick

Mileage Calculator A really good link made by the guys over on Difflock.

My old 90 did this. The live feed from the starter to the ignition switch had come off. Id get the multimeter out, check for a live at the ignition switch first, then trace it backwards. As Bog says, it could be the ignition switch itself.

My 90's been in bits for a while and Ive forgot how the bonnet release catch goes together. I've got it bolted to the front panel ok, but how does the spring and cable mount? Anyone help with a pic? Cheers Mick

Check the radiator. I found mine was leaking from the very bottom corner, only visible through the grill or with it removed. Other than that pressure test the system like western says, you'll see the pressure drop slowly, meanwhile check for leaks. After that time for the sniff test in the expansion tank if there are no visible leaks.....

We always test Land Rovers on the brake tester. I dont think it turns quick enough to wind the transmission up. It says in the Land Rover manual I think, that it is suitable to do so aslong as the wheel doesn't exceed 5km/h. Certain four wheel drive cars cannot, such as a new Jaguar we tested the other day, as it has the part time 4wd. The 4wd only works when the ECU senses that the front wheels are turning at a differnt speed to the rear ( fed by the ABS sensor) and supplies drive to the rear wheels. Our brake tester also has an option to test the transmission brake. Mick

Cheers Nick. I do understand what a bitsa set up is, but I was wondering what 'bits' were used so to speak. Is there a link to the spring rate and length's anywhere? Wouldn't mind playing around with OE parts from differnt land rovers as it would keep my insurance low, which is always a +! Regards Mick

Anyone care to elabourate on this bitsa setup? Sounds interesting. Cheers Mick

Cheers guys, i could feel the filter, but didn't know if it was replaceable or part of the unit and didn't want to drain the fluid out. It is the plastic type on mine with the filter built into the reservoir. had a look todday and I'm going to clean it in the parts wash. Mick

Afternoon, Is the poower steering filter replaceable on a 90? Or is it part of the reservoir? And, where can I get one? I've tried most local factors and they don't seem to list a power steering filter for it. Any help appreciated, Mick

I'm still waiting for a rocker gasket I ordered three months ago, that wasn't in stock the same time as the other bits i ordered. No phone calls or emails to tell me if and when it would turn up. Doubt i'll ever see that

Agreed on the tyre cage, although we don't have one. I now either inflate them attatched to the vehicle and stand away or stand the other side of the wall when they're loose. Mick

Always be careful when inflating any tires, and always watch as you pump it up for egg's appearing on the sidewalls. I was blowing a loose truck tyre up at work last year and didn't noticed three eggs on the opposite side to where I was. When I did notice my mate went for the valve tool, like a fool i stood holding it. Threw me 6 feet into the workshop shutter when they exploded. It bloody hurt and i couldn't walk for about 4 days, still took nearly an hour to be seen in hospital for the purple and green leg. Thank £*&% it wasn't a split rim.....

Put the spare tyre on, and drive the landy over the tyre to break the bead. Or a sledge hammer. Both tried and tested!

Les beat me to it. But he's right, the nitrile gloves are the best of the three disposable types. These are what work supply, horrible blue colour though and not much flexibility I find. Maybe just my opinion though, or big hands!

I bought a pair of Snap-On gloves from the states via eBay. In total I think the cost about £14 delivered. Same over here are aroubnd £25 - £30. Anyway, I tend not to use them that often as like you say, you can't feel things as easily, which when working in the dark on something out of eyesight is hard. I use mine for burning mainly, moving stuff while it's still hot and not getting burnt. There not so bad for when youre undoing something you know is going to end with scarred knuckle's. Everyday occurence for me. For jobs at home I either don't use gloves or use the disposable ones, although the do rip easily. Not sure if this helps a lot, sorry.... Mick

Welcome to the forum, Dont get a 2.5TD, unless you can get it cheap and buy a disco for the 200tdi swap. IMHO the 2.5TD is pants, mine will be coming out ASAP. Mick

Either the Halfords Professional range or some of the Clarke stuff from Machine Mart has lifetime guarentee's. Only stuff I've had go wrong is ratchets slipping from Halfords, all replaced no quibble. Only got two rails of sockets from Machine Mart but I use them everyday for work and they're really good. Both excellent prices especially compared to Snap-On etc, recently think Snap-On's quality has gone tit's up.