Ben_J85JTY

Try Dan at http://www.taurustransportservices.co.uk/

Jason, I have the MSS Longline draw which you are welcome to have a look at and take measurements from. It will be at the L2B Next weekend...... Ben

And I just realised I don't put these bits up in order! So, once the switch panel was on I decided to do the painting of the rear tub. As said above, I got a product from TD5 Alive a few years ago and it's been sat in the garage ever since. So. first of all, sanding everything down. This was far harder as the previous owner had glues a piece of chequre plate down to the floor. Then time to mask everything up and get on with the painting. The paint is a 2 part that needs to be mixed and applied within an hour. So, did three coats with the first lot, then another three after an hour or so. The lastest bit has been to fit the drawer (above) Next, fitting a wooden shelving system for the Euroboxes I normally pack everything into, and to re fit the water pump and tap I had in previously.

Thank Retro, Mark, the product is called rust-o-leum, I bought it a couple of years ago from TD5 Alive (as they were then). They had bought a load to paint their exhibition trailer and had some left over, so were selling it for £25 a kit. I have used about 1/2, having applied 6 coats to the rear tub.

Right, well onto the switch panel I put the carling switches, my Invertor and a few other bits and pieces. And with it all mounted..... Then the Mobile storage systems Longline drawer went back in. This is a bit of a pian to fit as the holes needed vs the template they give leave a lot to the imagination. So thats up to date so far...

Oh, if you do keep the TD5 get them to replace the injector loom too, extra £30 in parts but no extra labour and no oil in the loom problem (for a while anyway)

Forgot to add, whan they do it make sure they replace the plastic dowels with steel ones, it should stop the problem ever happening again.

I had mine skimmed 2 years ago with no ill effects. I sent mine to a local specialist, telling them it was the Head Gasket. They decided it was the Thermostat, then the Rad, and finally accepted it was the head after al that didn't work. Cost me £1300 quid in the end. Still, should be good for another 130k now.

Hi all, I thought I'd put a topic up on the fit out of the rear of my 110 DC which is fitted with a Truckman top, I am setting the rear out for camping and overlanding, and this will be the third incarnation of the set up, hopefully it will be the last. So, first up, and done a year or so ago, changing the tailgate from a drop down tailgate to a side opening tailgate. I started off by working out the positions of the hinges. I wanted to fit the hinges in the same position as they would have been had a rear door been fitted. Holes were then drilled and the hinges were then mounted onto the tub. To mount them to the tailgate, I used the original fittings to close the tailgate and hold it in position, giving me the correct position for the side mount hinges. Once they were drilled and fitted, the hinge side latch "eye" and both of the original bottom hinges and the job was done. Next, I moved onto fitting a power distribution and switch board. The sides of the truckman top offer little in the way of fixing points for a switch panel, so I chose to mount a frame directly to the truckman top. For neatness I mounted it by gluing the frame to the truckman's fibreglass side, giving me something to screw the swich panel to. The frame was made: And glued on to the truckman, The switch panel is simply a sheet of ply, to which I have attached a Blue sea 12 position fuse holder with positve and negative bus bar. I ran a twin cable from the second battery to this fuse holder and plan to run all my accesories from this fuse box. I chose to use carling switches and got a 4 gang carling switch holder, and 4 carling switches to go in there. To try to fit the panel flush with the waist line of the tub, I had to add a second piece of ply to give the switches the required depth. I also fitted 2 cigerette sockest for the various 12v accesories we wil be using. More follow....

No worries Tony, Ben

Yeah, Shouldn't be a problem.

How soon do you need them by? I am always around Aylesbury and will be travelling to Bristol sometime in the next moth or so.

We went in 2006 as a bit of a shakedown trip after our old 90 had been off the road for 2 years. I didn't know quite what to expect and went with a open mind. The campsite is very basic, but its only 1 night so not too bad. In the morning you take your tickets and exhange them for your t shirts and plaque, then queue ready to be released on the run. Its not a massive convoy as I thought, just a steady stream of Land Rovers released at 30sec intervals. When you arrive at Maderia drive you are parked up along the front, 3 or 4 deep so don't expect to leave early! There are a few stands from trade and clubs but really is an oppertunity to catch up with friends, have a brew or an ice cream and generally enjoy the moment. I would say its more of a right of passage. Everybody, no matter what marque or model they hail to, should do at least 1 L2B Personally, I am going this year with my local club, staying overnight then heading along following them. As its possibily the last one from Crystal Palace i felt I should take the 110. Besides, I just broke the 2006 plaque!

Hi all, As part of my pre trip checks before setting off for cornwall I noticed that the oil in the truck was reading a little high. Having dipped the oil I Think I might have smelt diesel, leading to some concern over leaking injector seals. So, two questions really. 1. Would the injector seals have been changed when I had the head skimmed and the gasket replaced? and 2. What are the signs that they are leaking? Cheers Ben

To be honest I got mine second hand from eBay, I wasn't aware they had been discontinued. I think the SWE 1000 will probably be the replacement. Not quite as "out there" styling wise and with the addition of a remote control. I wonder if anybody had fitted a full sub enclosure under the seats using the void between the chassis rails?

Another good option is the Alpine SWD 1600. I have one fitted under the seats in my 110 Double Cab and the quality of the bass is actually very good.

Thanks all, I thought as much and was hoping not to have to drop the whole box but hey ho. Cheers Ben

Hi all, I have a couple of LT230 transferbox's lying around with 1.122 ratio's and I was planning to swap one of them with the standard transferbox fitted to my Td5 110. I was wondering if it was possible to change the ratio's of the box in situ, rather than having to change the whole box and then faff around witht he Hi/Low sensor fitting? Cheers Ben

I have had mine MOT'd as a class 7 for the last 2 years since this was first discussed and have not had any drama's with the braking, even tho my brakes aren't great. The only real downside has been the extra cost and the lack of test stations.

Mark, TD5's may now have a matched pair, these were brand new 90 rears which are the older HD front. Only driven it 4 miles and it felt a lot less lurchy in the corners. The HD rears are a set of 3500kgs rated springs, cannot remember their codes but will have a look tomorrow .

I have just put the LR Red/Blue and Yellow/White spings on the front of my 110 which sports a Warn M9000i and Mantec bumber with A Bar. It raised the truch approx 1.5" and, along with HD spings on the rear, now sits level. I am hoping they will settle a little to drop .5" or so

Unfortunatly IRB is a very small outfit - just Ian really with a little help from Ada as work allows. He really is a victim of his own sucess - he is remapping trucks from dawn till dusk and misses out on the rest. Its a shame because people walk away (quite rightly) after waiting for such a long time.

Cheers Slomofo, I spoke to Frogs Island yesterday (how are part of Allmakes who make terrafirma stuff) and they haver suggested going for a +2" rear set up due to the HD spings I have fitted, so thanks, but I will pass this time. Cheers all for the replies, I am going to go with the TF116 for the from and TF117 +2" for the rear. I will also be changing the springs with Genunine HD fronts and rears which I have at home. I will report back as to how I get on, but the new springs and shocks, plus the Superpro bushes I have just fitted should see the truch handling like new!

I did a similar thing with threaded bar, but found the trolly jack on the tow ball a lille quicker and as it required such little force wasn't moving the 110 at all. Diffeernt ways of achieving the same thing I suppose!

Great, I'll wait to see them.