timmymac

for ease of use ,use solid colour 2 pack easy to paint gives a good finish but needs a bit of heat, doesnt take along time to go off and does so faster with additives ( e.g rocket) also a comercial 2 pack gives a harder finish (2 coats)but may look slightly more orange peely (if your very piccy). most masks are pretty good in well ventilated areas as long as they contain a charcoal filter you would be best airfed but alot for one job plus you will need a good compressor for gun and mask. how long was the fag break? as for the roof reseal and paint the seal in etch primer ,should be ok just flatting of the paint (500 dry 800 wet/dry ) depending on what you are painting on to, if its 2pack you will be fine. and give it a good panel wipe before painting.

how many miles is it good not to go over when buying a v8 . i imagine it depends alot on how it has been maintained but any clues as to when they become in need of a rebuild etc and arent worth the trouble

ok cheers just trying to find out what is needed before i decide what do

if i was to buy a v8 and auto box then go the megasquirt route, what wiring would i need from a v8 to fit it to a diesel RR

hi all thanks very much for all the replies but still i dont feel there has been many replies saying use this because so could i change the original question to for a challenge vehicle what engine/ gearbox setup are people currently using or have used, and found suits them and if you could explain why? if it helps i like the idea of 3.9 v8 , auto with megasquirt (maybe! so any feed back on this setup would be great) good or bad thanks again tim

hi iam looking at a 3.9 v8 on ebay has only done 56k and has had a top end rebuild apparently just to be sure it was ok before it went into a kit car. has no starter, alternator etc big question is how much is it worth

thats the sort of thing i was looking for a simple voting idea although it is good to hear reason for the choices to, also it doesnt link what setup people are using for example 3.5 v8, auto, lt230 cheers tim

ok sorry about that i agree a bit vague in areas it will be in a beginner challenge vehicle with light road use very light and the meaning of best ( better than the others) The ability to cope with water relatively well, enough power to pull through thick mud, not a maintenance nightmare so reliability and most of all FUN plus a resonable price i dont have £10.000 to spend just a normal budget

preperation wise a key using ( red scotch pad, 800 wet/dry or 500 da will do fine ) for any paint . as far as paint goes i would say a comercial 2 pack paint would be the hardest wearing although would need spraying on and only really works somewhere warm, i have seen cars painted from spray cans but it all depends on what finish you want. it is also possible to apply cellulose by brush/roller and sand between coats to get a smooth finish very old method that takes a long time. hope this helps and you should be ok using 2 pack with no primer but try not to sand through the old paint you only need a key on a good panel . if you go through or use any filler etc you will need to prime that panel

any views welcome to what is the best engine set up petrol or diesel engine size transmission type also interested in any combinations to stay away from thanks tim i think my old diesel is about to fail

yes i would second that idea maybe you try to power it straight off the battery and then disconect the wire to see if it is working also if you put a power lead on and off it you should hear a little click

it is good to bake if possible but you dont have to although a bit of heat whilst painting will help it flow better ( better finish) if the vehicle is going off road i would use a comercial paint as it is harder wearing and can still produce a good finish. as regards to masks air fed is best but somtimes not available, charcoal filter masks are ok for small jobs and holding your breath is a no no. if you are worried about drying times you could also use somthing like (rocket) which speeds up the curing time.

5 vehicles at a speed under 20mph thats good going. at least he was insured

i would recomend sata i used one alot when i was training and it was ok, if you dont mind spending go for devilbiss no questions i wouldnt buy anthing else. alot of body shops use sata and have a good finish so probably your best option, cheap ones may give a nice finish? but are cheap for a reason. definatly go gravity fed hope this helps

i have 35" mudzillas not sure of the true size but they run ok with a 2" suspension lift , 1 1/2" body lift and a bit of triming but you may be ok with just the 2" lift

hi its time for 2 new batteries and i was thinking of going for a red and a yellow top is this a good idea or is there a better option

well i wont be buying any from machine mart then , i generally use makita ones from screwfix and never have any probs

i think they must be 50mm i have fitted to mine with 10x15 rims and the tyres do come out past slightly but my mot tester informed me that it cant fail an mot on this but is however illegal? and would only be spotted by a good officer and only really noicable if in traffic

ok thanks very much i llike the sound of the landcruiser axles mostly due to price, although would like the benifits of portals and if i dont need an sva even better but i had been given the idea that any change to chassis, running gear from standard rover parts had to be sva. is there a large amount of fabrication diffence between the toyota and portal conversion

is it best to keep the original range rover axles and spend the money out on heavy duty shafts, cv etc or to fit a completly different set taking into consideration the rules (sva) on fitting non orignals. for example would it be noticed on a random roadside check if you had mog axles ? and is it worth the risk also how strong can an original rover axle be made, with lots or little money would it compete with the stronger ones from other vehicles. what are the other options that have been proven a worthy upgrade and what parts are good to strengthen the originals any ideas

hi i dont no if this will be any help as im not sure about the plastic ones although i have used this before and its pretty good ( www.protectakote.co.uk )

hi i have a 3l diesel mazda-perkins engine i belive an md engineering conversion and the alternator has no take off for a rev counter, is there an alternator that will bolt on and have the connection. any advise welcome

if you have damage to the pistons it would probably be a good idea to rebuild them although if you do i would buy genuine seal kits as they fit in easy and most patern ones are very poorly made ( dont fit what so ever ) as for the movement problem they should move on a normal pedal without the engine running. you could try bleeding them through until the system is filled with new fluid but i dont think it will make much difference, but maybe worth a try

i use adrian flux for modified vehicles although sureterm gave me a lower quote they had a much higher excess, both are easy to deal with and understand what you tell them

as said above if your only going to remove a small amount of over hang, i wouldnt bother as it is alot of work if done to a safe standard. but really just to create a bobtail its not terrible expensive if you have the equpement required. although it does generally lead to other mods which do cost money. i think the main factor of bobtailing is time if you want it right dont rush it and carefully think your cuts or it can look rubbish,not a good start for an sva