Jump to content

dangerous doug

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    1,534
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Posts posted by dangerous doug

  1. Bit done this weekend concerning the brake conversion. First idea was using a d2 brake disc, this would work but it means machining every disc and a custom set of wheels which isn’t what I want to do. Then thought about a 2 piece disk, this is fairly expensive but would would probably be the best way to do it... About 5am in the morning I realised I don’t actually need the 2 piece disc. I already have a mounting flange in the hub! Little searching and I found a cheap ish disc that fit the hub almost perfectly.

    8B26CA13-5471-4794-AF07-6997B940AA12.thumb.jpeg.d238bae85a51d52287f2273adb199aa4.jpeg

    Have a good friend with a lathe who was kind enough to let me use it…..he then got interested and cut it all down himself😂

    559AE931-A7F6-4507-B5F4-7BCD3ECD615C.thumb.jpeg.96666309196dfdce5cefa538911a131a.jpeg

    done

    66F9F83A-DD90-4181-8561-0256CA172011.thumb.jpeg.c912a921b8cd965548d596aa8fd8a1b4.jpeg


    These were not as hard as I was lead to believe so squaring off the hub faces to enable me to run an adapter to suit the LR bolt pattern wasn’t a problem. At the moment the plan is to machine the bearing surfaces off of a landrover hub and bolt that to the mog hub. It will be retained by the 5 bolts to the flange and the large mog hub nut.

     

    hub on

    6DC83146-3639-41DD-922F-456EA9F0248A.thumb.jpeg.aa5bb4d5384718435f3377086338f378.jpeg
     

    disc on

    9E33BBDD-6EEC-4873-B146-4C6DB3217640.thumb.jpeg.2ab4cf6828ecedc70aa72a77e4458757.jpeg

    have a few mounting options to adjust back spacing

    B72265F4-D886-4D6F-A489-F854332496C7.thumb.jpeg.2b54cc1a0c784facdeb3a2a4e72a291d.jpeg

    it looks like space is going to be an issue and I may have to use a non landrover calliper for this. I wanted to avoid that for parts availability but it is what it is. Maybe the d2 sliding calliper is an option. Have also thought about putting 2 rear callipers on but not sure about that

     

    while I was there I was able to spin up the controversial aluminium track rod. I’m told there have been no failures with these and they have a bit of flex when smacked …..which is a good thing I guess……we shall see. I’ll make the drag link when I know how long it needs to be

     

    first time I’ve operated a lathe in about 17 years

    4EBDD58C-1C91-470E-BCC2-987EE6D69EFD.thumb.jpeg.5974cfe21949e0c1bd6e26831b5b5a7f.jpeg
     

    and the final result

    CB5CB525-2F4B-45E5-B02C-6A804E721F62.thumb.jpeg.415c8e428e9bfba9ca1f72fd6041a497.jpeg
     

    This has really hilighted my need for a lathe, seems to be a bit of a minefield when it comes to buying second hand. Looking at something like a Colchester student or a Harrison m300. Anything else I should be looking for?

     

    If anyone knows of a decent slim ish calliper I’m all ears

     

    cheers Doug

    • Like 1
  2. 4 hours ago, miketomcat said:

    Which truck will you get the most use/fun from? That's the truck I would fit them to.

    Mike

    Interestingly this brings us to todays development!

    I went out to measure the pinion angle on the lightweight and while doing it thought “it’s a bit crusty under here!” Tacked the spring perch on and went back out to really sum what I plan to Achieve. In short, I don’t have time. It needs a full rebuild and as much as I would like to do that I have a mini that I’m restoring(neglecting), a 110 sitting and doing nothing, house things and that annoying thing between it all called work.I think the best plan of action is put the axles under the 110 which is 90% there as a challenge tuck.with Time, cost and performance it’s a no brainier.

     

    anyway, obviously not a lot to show for today. Did tack on the rear perches but there’s no point showing that. I did fire the tig up for the first time in ages to weld a drain bung in(I’m rusty as hell so be kind)

    95B84DB3-A625-418D-A197-F4BC14CEBE88.thumb.jpeg.3a02a14055f755ebb1a1ed83d15411c1.jpeg

    turns out the oil cooler fittings are the same size as the filler bungs…..clearly I had none to hand so this was handy

    also managed to pull 2 hubs off (if you know you know) so I can start looking at different disks for the conversion. At the moment it’s between disco2 and some Toyota 6stud variant. Plan is to machine the flange off, square off the blue part of the hub, drill the pcd into that and make a spacer of the same pcd to allow the correct back spacing for the disk
     

    53CDF511-2857-4ADE-8EF0-109597C0BD43.thumb.jpeg.c7afd9215affee415a14cffcb747ac79.jpeg

    048F5222-B65E-40DE-9932-C058E6E35619.thumb.jpeg.a1282493a02ae0626b21b59938599681.jpeg

    There is a win win ish scenario though, if I can find a photo of it….. many years ago in the Tay forest challenge, maybe Argyll challenge, there was a white “thing” which I think was known as the frog. It was basically a coiler platform with a lightweight front end. I remember liking it but can’t find any photos of it to confirm. Anyone remember it?

  3. Managed to get some time in the workshop today and an issue I’ve been fearing is worse that I thought…I knew I would have to shave some of the diff away to fit a spring perch….but not quite this much

     

    8E1EEEB0-6E56-4BFE-98DF-F90BE7EE2D55.thumb.jpeg.d1c8e4c9100492a28b2c1042fe3b488b.jpeg

    AECD6ACC-F297-4A0F-B9A9-49D23DBA4442.thumb.jpeg.ccd2c947ab8c0c61a5f3d5ca930d8871.jpeg
     

    so do I continue to pursue  the plan of putting these under the leafer and chop the axle case about, fit the mog end flanges to a landrover axle case or just give up all together with this idea and fit them to the 110?

     

    I know it won’t hurt the case too much and the cut will be boxed in but not sure I can bring myself to “ruin” one of these cases

    thoughts?

  4. 47 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

    There is another alternative, if you remove the mog flanges off the mog axles, the flange could be bored out to accept a new piece of shaft and then shaft machined to suit axle you are going to use. Using the existing flanges would save some time although only if your happy to sacrifice the mog axle casings

    regards Stephen

    Edit, you can see my mog flanges getting machined on page 17 of my build thread

    @Stellaghost! I managed my way through that monster of a thread and I think you may be on to something here! Can you remember the OD of the inner tube of the mog case by chance?

  5.  I have 2 ends of a donor mog case sitting in the bench but I’m leaning to getting new flanges made. Fresh steel on fresh steel and all that. They may need putting on a 4 jaw to machine a chamfer on them to allow the knuckle to locate but I think this is the quickest, most cost effective and neatest solution.  I’ve also thought about sleeving the axle tube like you say l to get a bit of length back but again I’m not sure how strong that will be especially with the twisty twist from the portals. Plenty of options out there which is good
     

     

    Losing a bit of width may also not be such a bad thing but that will become apparent when it comes to the rears. 

  6. 10 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

     

    Another option is to get the mog flange cut in the thickness plate needed for the flange and then attach it to a section of machined shaft drilled and tapped to accept it, flange can be fixed to shaft with countersunk allen bolts so the mating knuckle flange bolts onto a flat surface, alternatively,

     

    what time frame are you looking at ?

    regards Stephen

    This is exactly what I was getting at but not sure I explained it well enough. I’m swaying towards just accepting it’ll be a bit narrower and getting a mog flange cut out of some thick plate

     

    as for time frame……I am in no rush, the axles have been sitting for 15years so no big deal. Just don’t want them to cost me the moon

  7. 5 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    Looking forward to this axle build Doug! It's a difficult choice to choose which vehicle for them to go under! 

    For the god-winch idea.... what about using something like a Suzuki axle bits to make that side of it? Got to be a chunk lighter than a LR section.

    Move on from the solid axle idea ross. The freelander 1 rear diff weighs less than a landrover diff without the casing. There are also built in mounting points with it and has removable cover like the Salisburys. Easy to put a disk brake on one side and a shaft coming out the other with a bearing on the end to run the drum. 


    that said, the Koenig is still lighter
     

    but that’s not important at the moment, I need to make a decision on how to attach the mog knuckles to the axle tube😂 I don’t really want to throw money at it and get a block of steel machined down to resemble something like this

    2B8F95F0-39DC-4A01-A6AE-06BA2193710A.thumb.jpeg.9f8c714b40f41c55ce65a8d35193334d.jpeg

    3AD3F086-C4FB-4B29-A305-BB7B27803091.thumb.jpeg.c75f96d09a9866a3519409f02474950e.jpeg

     

    It’s for sure the neatest solution but I hate to think what it’ll cost to get that cut and spun….and 4 times! but then again this may be the best way. Like I said above, another option is having basically a 15mm thick mog flange made up with holes drilled in it to coincide with the Land Rover flange but I do have my doubts with the bolts holding it together….and it’s just another spot for it to leak😂

     

    The quickest, easiest and cheapest way to do it is to just get a mog pattern flange cut and accept that the axle will be a bit narrower. This should be ok but I’m very aware of how much space the new pumpkin is taking up on the tube and am worried about room for things like radius arm mounts…

     

     

  8. 1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

    First off, plenty of room for another lightweight on 404 portals and I would be really interested on your approach and how you do it

    Secondly I've heard of some of the stuff you've built and seen some of your work on here, you are certainly not in my or anyone  else's shadow

    Whichever way you decide to go I will be watching with a great deal of interest, really looking forward to it good luck

    regards Stephen

    Thank you for kind word Stephen, high praise indeed. We will see what happens, i bought a shell of a lightweight so I could build a “light weight lightweight” challenge truck but the appeal of having a tax and mot exempt classic landy is growing on me, especially as I already have a purpose built truck for abusing but we’ll see. I do quite like the idea of an 88” on leafs with portals and a “small” tyre

    1 hour ago, Daan said:

    Interesting project, keep the updates coming. I'd say these would be a good fit under the 110, as the extended wheel base would make it more stable on hills. But either would work obviously. 

    Are you fitting the Koenig PTO winch?

    Daan

    Hi daan, the Koenig will be fitted either way I go with the vehicle. I love your model of having everything mechanical hence the choice of diffs. I have 3 PTOs to choose from if I go down the 110 route (2 rear facing and 1 front) and I have a rear facing one for the series gearbox. It will defiantly be fitted but I have options. 
     

    I also have a lump of scrap tacked together I call the proof of concept 1:1 winch but I think that will be too violent. And have also been looking into making the god winch out of an axle, don’t like that route as much as there isn’t a way to make it light enough

  9. story time

    when drilling the breather for my new diff cover on the front Salisbury I decided to do as they did and drill it in a similar location to the oem. On the oem cover there is a plate over the fitting on the inside which I thought odd so decided to not copy(read I was too lazy) as a consequence, the crown wheel spun and splashed oil at the breather opening, sent oil all the way up the breather pipe and down the side of my truck and over me…..Good times

     so could a hole not be drilled by a gear and use the same principle only not by mistake like me😂

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy