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Posts posted by dangerous doug
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43 minutes ago, ped said:
i have a colchester student
boxfords are ok
3 phase machines can be picked up cheap and run from an inverterCheers ped, had a quick look at boxfords but diddnt know anyone with one so thought maybe not one to chase. The 3 phase conversion isn’t an issue
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Bit done this weekend concerning the brake conversion. First idea was using a d2 brake disc, this would work but it means machining every disc and a custom set of wheels which isn’t what I want to do. Then thought about a 2 piece disk, this is fairly expensive but would would probably be the best way to do it... About 5am in the morning I realised I don’t actually need the 2 piece disc. I already have a mounting flange in the hub! Little searching and I found a cheap ish disc that fit the hub almost perfectly.
Have a good friend with a lathe who was kind enough to let me use it…..he then got interested and cut it all down himself😂
done
These were not as hard as I was lead to believe so squaring off the hub faces to enable me to run an adapter to suit the LR bolt pattern wasn’t a problem. At the moment the plan is to machine the bearing surfaces off of a landrover hub and bolt that to the mog hub. It will be retained by the 5 bolts to the flange and the large mog hub nut.hub on
disc on
have a few mounting options to adjust back spacing
it looks like space is going to be an issue and I may have to use a non landrover calliper for this. I wanted to avoid that for parts availability but it is what it is. Maybe the d2 sliding calliper is an option. Have also thought about putting 2 rear callipers on but not sure about thatwhile I was there I was able to spin up the controversial aluminium track rod. I’m told there have been no failures with these and they have a bit of flex when smacked …..which is a good thing I guess……we shall see. I’ll make the drag link when I know how long it needs to be
first time I’ve operated a lathe in about 17 years
and the final result
This has really hilighted my need for a lathe, seems to be a bit of a minefield when it comes to buying second hand. Looking at something like a Colchester student or a Harrison m300. Anything else I should be looking for?
If anyone knows of a decent slim ish calliper I’m all ears
cheers Doug
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4 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Which truck will you get the most use/fun from? That's the truck I would fit them to.
Mike
Interestingly this brings us to todays development!
I went out to measure the pinion angle on the lightweight and while doing it thought “it’s a bit crusty under here!” Tacked the spring perch on and went back out to really sum what I plan to Achieve. In short, I don’t have time. It needs a full rebuild and as much as I would like to do that I have a mini that I’m restoring(neglecting), a 110 sitting and doing nothing, house things and that annoying thing between it all called work.I think the best plan of action is put the axles under the 110 which is 90% there as a challenge tuck.with Time, cost and performance it’s a no brainier.
anyway, obviously not a lot to show for today. Did tack on the rear perches but there’s no point showing that. I did fire the tig up for the first time in ages to weld a drain bung in(I’m rusty as hell so be kind)
turns out the oil cooler fittings are the same size as the filler bungs…..clearly I had none to hand so this was handy
also managed to pull 2 hubs off (if you know you know) so I can start looking at different disks for the conversion. At the moment it’s between disco2 and some Toyota 6stud variant. Plan is to machine the flange off, square off the blue part of the hub, drill the pcd into that and make a spacer of the same pcd to allow the correct back spacing for the disk
There is a win win ish scenario though, if I can find a photo of it….. many years ago in the Tay forest challenge, maybe Argyll challenge, there was a white “thing” which I think was known as the frog. It was basically a coiler platform with a lightweight front end. I remember liking it but can’t find any photos of it to confirm. Anyone remember it?
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Managed to get some time in the workshop today and an issue I’ve been fearing is worse that I thought…I knew I would have to shave some of the diff away to fit a spring perch….but not quite this much
so do I continue to pursue the plan of putting these under the leafer and chop the axle case about, fit the mog end flanges to a landrover axle case or just give up all together with this idea and fit them to the 110?
I know it won’t hurt the case too much and the cut will be boxed in but not sure I can bring myself to “ruin” one of these cases
thoughts?
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Congrats mate, it’s one of the best feelings to see hard work come into fruition like that. Not only have you created something truly amazing but you have given motivation and inspiration to everyone who has followed the build. You should be chuffed.
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Clearly you diddnt top up the blinker fluid then😂
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6 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Don’t you normally pay for that kind of thing on the internet?
Your a hard person to like sometimes😂
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On 4/15/2023 at 11:58 AM, Stellaghost said:
Facing off no 2
Just teasing you now @dangerous doug ill not post anymore until all 4 are done
Regards Stephen
God damn flange tease…
😂😂😂
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Very very nice stephen, can’t thank you enough👍
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Awesome work bud!
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Check you out doing 2 things at once! This just makes me want to get a lathe
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Ooof, you’re a true gentleman!
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@Stellaghost you have a pm.
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
OD of inner tube is 80mm and wall thickness is 6mm
Regards Stephen
Ahhh that’s a shame thought we were on to something there!
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47 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
There is another alternative, if you remove the mog flanges off the mog axles, the flange could be bored out to accept a new piece of shaft and then shaft machined to suit axle you are going to use. Using the existing flanges would save some time although only if your happy to sacrifice the mog axle casings
regards Stephen
Edit, you can see my mog flanges getting machined on page 17 of my build thread
@Stellaghost! I managed my way through that monster of a thread and I think you may be on to something here! Can you remember the OD of the inner tube of the mog case by chance?
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13 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Are the Mog flanges cast? Could you build them up with weld and then bore them out?
As far as I know they are steel. This is a good plan b though, I like it!
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I have 2 ends of a donor mog case sitting in the bench but I’m leaning to getting new flanges made. Fresh steel on fresh steel and all that. They may need putting on a 4 jaw to machine a chamfer on them to allow the knuckle to locate but I think this is the quickest, most cost effective and neatest solution. I’ve also thought about sleeving the axle tube like you say l to get a bit of length back but again I’m not sure how strong that will be especially with the twisty twist from the portals. Plenty of options out there which is good
Losing a bit of width may also not be such a bad thing but that will become apparent when it comes to the rears.
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10 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Another option is to get the mog flange cut in the thickness plate needed for the flange and then attach it to a section of machined shaft drilled and tapped to accept it, flange can be fixed to shaft with countersunk allen bolts so the mating knuckle flange bolts onto a flat surface, alternatively,
what time frame are you looking at ?
regards Stephen
This is exactly what I was getting at but not sure I explained it well enough. I’m swaying towards just accepting it’ll be a bit narrower and getting a mog flange cut out of some thick plate
as for time frame……I am in no rush, the axles have been sitting for 15years so no big deal. Just don’t want them to cost me the moon
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5 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Looking forward to this axle build Doug! It's a difficult choice to choose which vehicle for them to go under!
For the god-winch idea.... what about using something like a Suzuki axle bits to make that side of it? Got to be a chunk lighter than a LR section.
Move on from the solid axle idea ross. The freelander 1 rear diff weighs less than a landrover diff without the casing. There are also built in mounting points with it and has removable cover like the Salisburys. Easy to put a disk brake on one side and a shaft coming out the other with a bearing on the end to run the drum.
that said, the Koenig is still lighter
but that’s not important at the moment, I need to make a decision on how to attach the mog knuckles to the axle tube😂 I don’t really want to throw money at it and get a block of steel machined down to resemble something like this
It’s for sure the neatest solution but I hate to think what it’ll cost to get that cut and spun….and 4 times! but then again this may be the best way. Like I said above, another option is having basically a 15mm thick mog flange made up with holes drilled in it to coincide with the Land Rover flange but I do have my doubts with the bolts holding it together….and it’s just another spot for it to leak😂
The quickest, easiest and cheapest way to do it is to just get a mog pattern flange cut and accept that the axle will be a bit narrower. This should be ok but I’m very aware of how much space the new pumpkin is taking up on the tube and am worried about room for things like radius arm mounts…
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
First off, plenty of room for another lightweight on 404 portals and I would be really interested on your approach and how you do it
Secondly I've heard of some of the stuff you've built and seen some of your work on here, you are certainly not in my or anyone else's shadow
Whichever way you decide to go I will be watching with a great deal of interest, really looking forward to it good luck
regards Stephen
Thank you for kind word Stephen, high praise indeed. We will see what happens, i bought a shell of a lightweight so I could build a “light weight lightweight” challenge truck but the appeal of having a tax and mot exempt classic landy is growing on me, especially as I already have a purpose built truck for abusing but we’ll see. I do quite like the idea of an 88” on leafs with portals and a “small” tyre
1 hour ago, Daan said:Interesting project, keep the updates coming. I'd say these would be a good fit under the 110, as the extended wheel base would make it more stable on hills. But either would work obviously.
Are you fitting the Koenig PTO winch?
Daan
Hi daan, the Koenig will be fitted either way I go with the vehicle. I love your model of having everything mechanical hence the choice of diffs. I have 3 PTOs to choose from if I go down the 110 route (2 rear facing and 1 front) and I have a rear facing one for the series gearbox. It will defiantly be fitted but I have options.
I also have a lump of scrap tacked together I call the proof of concept 1:1 winch but I think that will be too violent. And have also been looking into making the god winch out of an axle, don’t like that route as much as there isn’t a way to make it light enough
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13 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
My ignorance showing here: what, exactly, is a sheave?
A pulley is an assembly, the sheave is the round component the rope sits In
thats no worries, thought I would offer incase you hadn’t sorted it yet
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For a long while now I’ve had a set of mog 404 axles sitting in the corner of the workshop. Have never really been sure what to do with them as they have been destined to be under 3 project now and it’s never happened. It’s never been quite right. But I’ve been keeping up to date with others builds and impressed with the ammount of innovation going on (especially the @Stellaghost build) so now I have enough parts to toss my hat in the ring, I shall….
just want to say, I’m not the first to come up with this idea @Soren Frimodt was the first I’ve known to do it and we have briefly spoken about what’s involved. So I started playing about grafting mog axle flanges onto a trussed landrover axle case, flipped the diff and drilled the axle to accept. That’s where I stopped a few years ago. Then I came across some fabricated axle cases so cheap that I couldn’t say no, they were made by a reputable company who are no longer Pershing the project. The result is this
Mog case, trussed landrover case and the new case(rear pictured)
My main issues are the fancy new case differs in dimension massively to the others(duh) the original idea by soren is to cut the flange off of the landy case and mog case then slip the mog flange over the landy tube. Done.
the new case uses a 3” tube, the ID of the mog flange is 81mm so that’s a no go. The other issue is the front axle tube is 62mm shorter than a mog case, i would like to keep them the same length but this created problems. It’s no big deal, the half shafts will have to be special ones anyway.
the other solution is to weld the end flanges on to the axle tubes, this increases overall width by 30mm. Then have some adapter plates made up out of 15mm plate to not only give me my 60mm width I need but it also allows me to bolt on a standard Land Rover swivel if I ever wanted to! I’m not sure about this though as it’s 7 relatively small bolts taking all the torque generated by the portal boxes
then Ofcourse how could one resist seeing what it looks likeI forgot how heavy these thing are so I’m hurting today!
the point of all this? Because I would like to have something a bit lighter than a 404 axle. I can easily lift a landrover diff one handed where the 404 diffs are a 2 handed hassle, the mog tube also weighs a lot. As you can see from the above photo I stripped the halfshafts, top gear, CVS, brake components and even the centre hub bolts just to strip a bit of weight for when I move it about.
Game plan so far:
flipped diffs, 2.88 R&P( hope you still have them @Hybrid_From_Hell), truetrac in the front, Detroit in the rear, standard concept Land Rover suspension.
as for the vehicle they are going under…I would really like to put them under my lightweight….but I don’t think there’s room on this forum for 2 lightweights on 404s and I will forever live in stephens shadow😂
OR
the 110 and as @landroversforever has pointed out, a bobbed 110 on portals would be a rare and capable thing.
any thoughts, questions, encouragement or advice on machining would be appreciated
special thanks to those who are tagged who have put up with my voicing ideas over the past few years only for me to go quiet when I’m distracted. You’re good patient people😂
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story time
when drilling the breather for my new diff cover on the front Salisbury I decided to do as they did and drill it in a similar location to the oem. On the oem cover there is a plate over the fitting on the inside which I thought odd so decided to not copy(read I was too lazy) as a consequence, the crown wheel spun and splashed oil at the breather opening, sent oil all the way up the breather pipe and down the side of my truck and over me…..Good times
so could a hole not be drilled by a gear and use the same principle only not by mistake like me😂
Mog 404 axles
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Last we spoke he said he said he wasn’t feeling too well. Hopefully it’s just a case of man flu