dangerous doug

It will be at a different angle at full droop

If we’re talking about re making stuff….wouldnt a watts linkage be more appropriate for a 1-link?

It will give as much length as it’s got. The adjustable ones are not to give more length for flex, they are to centre the front axle after lifting the car. Unfortunately you’re stuck with the length unless you chop about and move mounts. Everything is a compromise, and while it may not be ideal for for maximum movement, you have a bolt on arrangement right now, with aftermarket parts available and all the steering all lines up in the way it was designed….ish. what I will say though, is a 1” Jonny joint or a rose joint would be a good idea given how much movement you will have

I also thought this, and thought of the simple solution to weld tabs onto the cross member either side of the clevis with a slot, rather than a hole. This would allow in and out cushioning of the bush but restrict the dogleg situation that probably would Occour with the leverage from the portals. Sorry for not mentioning sooner Stephen, I got distracted mid reply and forgot

also an option😉

you going to brace that further back to the chassis?could incorporate a skid plate to it too

Right, I’m sold! top job👍

Juries out on that one mate. Had a little chat with @landroversforever last night and it seems like it’ll be a slippery slope if I make an ali one…because I won’t stop.That said The weight saving is massive and hard to ignore, your ali one is 20kg lighter than a series 3 bulkhead….even if the lightweight one is actually lighter, which I doubt (but if it is it’s negligible), and it’s a 15kg saving it’s massive. Why you ask?

With results I hope😂

It will be wallet bashing. We’ve spoken about the stumpy v8 box before but you’ll still need to mess about with spigot bush and input shafts as the v8 is different. Anything can be done with enough enthusiasm and violence

The filter relocation kit makes little difference in this application as the housing still fits pretty low. The vbelt front end sticks out further but you can bolt a different plate to the filter housing to move that but at the cost of more pulleys. As Bowie says, the serp front end is the nicest, cleanest, best oil pump and most compact but you cant do much about that filter i forget where I got it(possibly @FridgeFreezer) but there is and oiling diagram for the rv8 kicking around somewhere. I remember looking at it thinking about cutting the housing off ant tapping direct into the ports and running a remote filter that way. none of this takes away from the fact there is no short v8 gearbox, and the overall length is longer than the tdi so it’s kindof a moot point. i know your hurting for space and you’ve done a really nice job on that bulkhead but maybe you can afford to move the engine and box 1/4”-1/2” up and back which would buy a bit of space

The v8 is longer. There is also an oil filter to the left of the crank pulley(as looked at from the front) bellhousing are are also longer so that would push the engine forward or the gearbox back

I’m with muddy on this, the coils will probably be binding by the time the axle gets all the way up there. You could also buy a bit of distance by putting a spacer under the engine and gearbox mounts. Hydraulic bump stops can also be a help to decelerate weather than just crashing stuff into eachother

4/5ths of F-all then!😂

I would really appreciate that, let me know when you have some time to spare and we’ll go from there. out of interest, what would you say the weight difference is?

Love it Stephen, it’s come out really nicely. On the whole would you say it’s worth it? I need to repair my light weight bulkhead but it’s probably as much work to make another one so this is defenatly an avenue for me to look into when I get a minute to read through a 12 page thread😂

I think he currently runs one on his patrol?

only went and found it! Must warn you though, you’re going to have a sharp reminder of how bad cameras were 16 years ago😂 https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/10476-rebuilding-the-heap/#comments

It does actually get worse…..

There usedto be a uk challenge truck with front and rear 1 links made from the standard hockey sticks, the bend started a few inches from bush(axle end) and it seemed to work well and had loads of clearance. I’ve also made one for a euro trial “spider” which was literally some box section welded to the axle case meeting at the other end with a big boy rose joint. It was all tied together with a skid plate. It worked but the car was well under 1000kg and would need more for anything heavier. there was a time I was going to do this on mine but never had the time, so for a quick easy solution I fitted voided poly bushes….they worked “ok” but lasted about 3 trips out. I’ve since fitted genuine bushes with an 8mm hole drilled in them and I’m really happy with the result theres also this death trap to draw a small ammount of inspiration from you could also put an end to the experts claims of knowing someone who cut the front half of a radius arm off to allow more flex. I know so many people who have claimed to see it but somehow it’s missed me every time….

You not on the Facebook? Typical things like this happen after you pulled the trigger…

This

Don’t underestimate it’s competitiveness, I’ve seen the results of a race featuring a leaf sprung lightweight fitted with a v8 do a lot better than a lot of coilers. That car was also “not competitive” obviously a lot I’ve people put a lot of money into winning but it’s still nice to go out and have fun great seat choice, they look a lot like an unbranded upmarket cobra

Fit the bottom, lift the chassis to full articulation, pin the top and repeat

Violence?