dangerous doug

I have been doing this sort of thing for years and for some reason I always think I can achieve more in a day than I actually can…anyone else get that? what I did achieve was a mock up template of the caliper mount, tapped the hub for the disk and mounted everything up to check clearances. Happy to say that everything looks good! did make a boo-boo though, using the disk I have and a landrover hub means I have to take a hub off to change the disk. I wanted to avoid this but it is what it is. it’s tight but it fits the mock up bracket is just a 3mm thick piece of alli which sped the shaping up alot, stuck some bolts and assorted nuts through it enabling me to wind the bracket in and out so I could get the thickness of the permanent bracket right….turns out that’s 40mm. Could use some 40mm thick aluminium or some plate steel with spacers behind it to make up the difference. The bracket itsself picks up off of 2 of the bolts on the portal box. I’m not sure if this will be ok though… on the one had 40mm out from the mounting face is a bit much for just 2 bolts and on the other it’ll be a lot more ridged than the landrover rear setup.

Aaaaah the notorious rat tail zip tie. I trust a pair of chocolate pants more than those things

It should have markings on the controller, mine does but you need a microscope to see. I would also go over all the connections of those fans as I’ve had nothing but problems with them but maybe they were a Friday afternoon set

This

I thought the 2/300 blocks were the same but the rest was different. No idea

It’s all modular and all fits. I will say though, I think the carbs are the wrong direction. Another option to consider is stroking out the tdi. Place in Cambridge does the cranks and it wouldn’t be much of a difference cost wise to building and fitting a v8 td5 is also a good choice and fairly cost effective

Possibly but I would double check as your input shaft may be too short. And why no 4.6 on carbs?

Get a v8 to Series adapter and it should bolt to your lt77 and also give you the shortest engine/ gearbox combo available to a v8. The whole Thor/gems thing is only really relevant to the front cover, it can all be swapped around and mis matched with the use of spacers though. I have a Thor inlet manifold on a GEMS 3.9. I like it. the whole thing about the “this has more power from factory” argument is no one ever tells you at what RPM it’s made at. important because a rover v8, civic typeR and a bmw s1000rr all made around 200 bhp in various iterations of their lives …..one’s 4L, one’s 2L and the others 1L and their torque curves reflect this. easy way to decide is look at where the sweet spot is on the power curve and see where your gearing sits at that rpm then work out what speed you’re at. Mine likes 2600 rpm for some reason so I’ve messed about with diffs and transfer boxes so 2600rpm is 60mph the rest kindof falls into place hope that has made sense, I’ve taken a lot of painkillers thismorning

Very nice work and a perfect example of the 6 Ps (5 Ps to some)

Vector winch?

29kg off of the front end is a massive ammount. And the 8274 is a good choice on the rear with the spur gear break

This has crossed my mind but I’m not too worried as the wheel nuts, “drive bolts” and mog nuts can be checked externally and the disk bolts will be threaded into the mog hub with a nylock on the back of them so should be ok. You’re right though, if I were to do it again I would probably have a steel lr pattern hub made but as each hub cost £15 I thought it was worth a shot. Each contact face has a machined surface and with the mog bolt pulling everything tight I would have thought there is less load on everything than what it sees on a landrover axle. @muddy I havnt keyed or staked the hubs together because the lr one is so soft it wouldn’t last. That was an idea I was toying with though. And As Stephen says, the big hub bolt is only keeping the hub onto the axle, it sets no preload as far as I’m aware but will serve the job of squishing these two together and making sure nothing comes flying off the 1 tons would be good but again I’m trying to keep it narrow and the wolfs allow a bit more calliper clearance for some reason. But then again I seem to have generated a bit more calliper clearance than expected so maybe a different wheel all together will be used

First hub is done. and got a new track rod spun up for the mog TREs out of 1 3/4” ali….forgot to take a photo of that but it’s a big boy Pressed on and pressed on wheel on as you can see I have 3” of clearance with these, the wheels are getting banded 2” which leave me an inch so I may change the wheels to the standard offset wolf wheel to narrow everything a bit more and still give me 10mm of clearance to the knuckle. Overall this should increase the track width by 80mm you May have spotted my miscalculation (**** up) in that I now can’t fit the disk on😂 so I can either do it so the landrover hub comes off or the mog hub comes off to change the disk. No big deal, I just wish I thought of that sooner. my next thought is how to actually drive the hub. For a while I’ve just thought that the bolts for the drive flange can be used….and they still could and im fairly confident it would be fine as all of the load goes through them on a landrover anyway but I’m now thinking about also adding some drive dogs to the mog hub for the landrover hub to react off of aswell. Could aslo drill the landy hub to take 10 bolts like I did on my Salisbury axles. Still not 100% sure though. What’s people’s thoughts on this?

Pto and hydraulic winches have the same issues with the engine being off, you have no winch. The pto I think is a lot lighter than the hydro setup. The winch itsself can be made, søren has done it with a Land Rover diff but a freelander rear diff is the same ratio, slightly smaller and better for packaging. Doing it this way will give a usable drive assist ratio and can be done pretty cheaply. Ultimately though, nothing is cheaper than what you already have

That grille looks so good I forgot it was home made for a while😂 I have a nice pto winch and a pto for an lt230 for sale if you want to save some weight.

Thing is with that is you’re still going to have the weaker landrover tre at one end or have you changed that? Is the one you have the same length as a standard landrover one?

I got them on ebay, both RH thread though and I think I got the last of them as I wanted 3 but could only get 2. I should be machining up the new track rod tomorrow if you want me to do another for you. It’s straight 1 3/4 solid aluminium if that’s any good? Failing that I can just send the tap over

If you need it pronto then you have have the one in the pic. Pm me what your after

I can make another one of these, any good?

40” treps are 17” flavour

They do on the rear but not the front. there is a coiled pipe that sits behind the bearing for the half shaft that acts as a breather but taking mine apart and knowing what I’m planning to do with the truck I don’t like them.

That looks quite the squeeze. Fully support the idea of some sort of banjo fitting on the caliper too. What did you do for portal box breathers btw?

2” tube any good? I have a decent bender but only have a 2” die

This is what I was thinking, but I’ve tidied up and really could t be bothered to dig the track rod out again😂 we’re talking a couple of degrees at the end of the day and I don’t think it’ll matter much on something like this Oh I know, the photos are all saved on the camera roll for reference because I have little signal at the workshop 😂

Been quiet on the forum for the past few days so I’ll chip in with what I have rear axle is nearly done and dare I say it….the front is all tacked together and ready to be dry fitted! Rear mounts proved a little tricky as I dont have much in the way of reference for them and beeping them on the same plain was also a pain so I deployed the super stud: 1m long and 8 nuts kept everything square and gave me a reference point between them making everything a lot easier. Have 8.5” of separation between the top and bottom links Also had a rummage in the tig consumables box as I’ve been looking at going up a tungsten size for a while. Found the bits I needed and gave it a try fast run at 210A Got some spring seats at billing. Not sure about these, I like the factory look but they don’t sit quite high enough for a spring seat so will require a spacer of the seat modding….. the rear seats just won’t fit, there is no way so I’m thinking about welding some box to the bottom of the seat and then welding said box straight to the axle. I know I’ve seen this done somewhere but not very well…..possibly one of straight forward supplies efforts (awaiting @FridgeFreezer to chime in on that as he hates them more than me😂) Also got myself some new TREs with associated taps so the spindley lr TREs can go back in the draw where they belong. Problem is they are both right hand thread so they won’t have the adjustment they would normally have. Mercedes decided to swage one joint on their track rods and I’m not sure how they adjusted them. Let me know your thoughts because I have no idea what I’m doing😂